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Motronic posted:It has and the Motronic and Kastein approved choice is Carolina. I'm a RedWing man. 2226 is the only boot that fits my comically small ankles. I've been through 6 pairs in 10 years, and I'm due to buy another pair this Black Friday. Motronic posted:Sorry for posting twice (also in DIY), but I'm pretty excited about this: Reverse is really not important on that machine. You run the risk of unthreading the chuck, plus there should be a reverse lever on the geartrain if you need the leadscrew direction to change... sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 17:08
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sharkytm posted:I'm a RedWing man. 2226 is the only boot that fits my comically small ankles. I've been through 6 pairs in 10 years, and I'm due to buy another pair this Black Friday. Is the RedWing safety line more comfortable than the RedWing Heritage line? I've got a pair of these, and while they look good, even after a year of regular wear, they're still uncomfortable to walk in for long.
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Feb 29, 2016 17:57
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Safety Dance posted:Is the RedWing safety line more comfortable than the RedWing Heritage line? I've got a pair of these, and while they look good, even after a year of regular wear, they're still uncomfortable to walk in for long. I have the same pair, mine are five (six?) years old and fairly comfortable to wear for long periods of time at this point, I've worn them enough that they had to be sent back to be resoled once alread. Just keep wearing them and power through the pain, they do eventually get more comfortable. That said, their work boot line is much more comfortable out of the box. I have a pair of 620 logger boots for wearing in the winter/mud and I could see being on my feet in them for 8+ hours at a time.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:19
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Safety Dance posted:Is the RedWing safety line more comfortable than the RedWing Heritage line? I've got a pair of these, and while they look good, even after a year of regular wear, they're still uncomfortable to walk in for long. The heritage line is designed for looks, not function. They're hugely expensive, and largely aimed at hipsters. No safety-toe, leather soles, contrast stitching, moccasin toe, etc. I don't doubt that they're well-made, but they aren't work boots. I wear my 2226's every day, for upwards of 18 hours/day. I literally put them on when I wake up, and they don't come off until I'm getting ready to shower at night. Pics: poo poo kickers/painting boots, Old pair (2 years old), and current (1 year old)  Soles:  I pronate a little, so the outside edges of the heels are pretty worn out. Keep 'em oiled, change the laces every 6-8 months, and they just go forever. Those boots saw a lot of salt water, too. Good insoles help a LOT. I immediately toss the ones they come with, and put in the deep heel-cup, heat-moldable insoles, model 96386. I've got 2 pairs, and they've lasted for 2+ years each. They've got a high arch, and a deep heel, which feels odd at first, but once you get used to it, there's nothing like it. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 18:21
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The Thorogood "heritage" steel toe boots are comparable quality to Redwing, American-made and you don't have to wait long to find them on sale for ~$100/pair. They're what I wear in the shop. Not a great winter boot but otherwise I have no complaints.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:28
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When it comes to boots, I don't think there's a real point in arguing brands too much. What you need to find is a good quality boot that FITS. I literally went to the RedWing store (Dartmouth, MA, for those local to me), and sat down and tried on every single pair of steel-toe lace-up boots they had. They spent about 2 hours bringing me shoes, and I eventually settled on my current ones. When they have a coupon, I call in, get the discount, and have them drop-ship to me for free. They also give me laces for free, and oiling is free. Just show up, they'll oil the boots and give you a pair or two of laces. Having a good dealer is pretty important. I usually return a pair for every one I buy, because I've got weird-feet, and they don't all fit exactly right. My dealer doesn't care, and so long as they aren't street-worn, they just credit me back. Red Wing, Carolina, Chippewa, Georgia, Danner, all make good boots, but the quality varies by model. I'm not one of the die-hard, Must be 100% made in the USA people, but if that's your thing, most places let you sort by that characteristic. My 2226's are mfr'd in the US, but with imported materials. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 18:31
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Redwing/Carolina/Georgia are about the best in terms of lasting and putting up with abuse. But Sharky is right, get a pair that fits, but FWIW, go to a store that sells exclusively work wear (not Duluth, because holy gently caress expensive), they will have the best selection and usually some one that knows how to fit boots. Ever since I started doing that, its been night and day.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:51
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One of my co-workers insists on all his tools being Snap-on. Box, every single little thing in his tool box. But when he needs boots - he goes to Walmart and spends $30 on something that he's literally using 100% of the day and actually touching his body.
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Feb 29, 2016 19:04
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0toShifty posted:One of my co-workers insists on all his tools being Snap-on. Box, every single little thing in his tool box. But when he needs boots - he goes to Walmart and spends $30 on something that he's literally using 100% of the day and actually touching his body. I don't wear work boots much/often. I needed a pair to wear for two days a few years back, so I did the cheap Walmart route. Holy poo poo, they are the worst things I've ever had on my feet. I maybe wore them four or five times total. I went back to a pair I bought in 1999 that are ratty as hell, but don't kill my feet after eight hours.
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Feb 29, 2016 19:12
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0toShifty posted:One of my co-workers insists on all his tools being Snap-on. Box, every single little thing in his tool box. But when he needs boots - he goes to Walmart and spends $30 on something that he's literally using 100% of the day and actually touching his body. If they're comfortable that's the right choice.
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Feb 29, 2016 19:25
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Zoro leap day special 20% off $250+ LEAPDAY enco 25% off and free shipping 
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Feb 29, 2016 19:28
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Sweet, I'm out of WD-40. Time to stock up.
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Feb 29, 2016 20:09
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BraveUlysses posted:Zoro leap day special 20% at Zoro isn't that great, there's usually a couple of 25% coupons, plus the big Cyber Monday deal. ENCO did a 30% off, but no free shipping a few weeks ago. Toss-up about which is better. For high-dollar stuff, the other was better, low-dollar or bulky, this one is great.
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Feb 29, 2016 20:37
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As noted, Carolinas for me. I nuke a pair about every 12-18 months... I'm 15 months into the current pair and there aren't any holes in the leather yet. I could probably keep the leather from disintegrating so badly if I actually polished them every week or two, but the soles crack and fall apart at the same rate, so I'm not really sure it'd save me anything since the soles are delaminating and cracking to pieces by the time the leather fails anyways. A hundred bucks for new boots every 18 months really isn't at the top of the budget list so I'll just suck it up and pay for new ones. While you're at it, get a pair of ironlaces for whatever boots you buy. Here's the ones I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AK9EW6O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage I think I might actually get to see what their warranty process is like this time around because I put these laces on only when I'd nuked the factory supplied laces, and I'm halfway through wearing the ironlaces through - that's the only problem with laces that never stretch, if you lace your boots up the same way every day, the same spot wears against the eyelets and hooks every time. They've eaten ~1/16" into the brass eyelets in the process. I'm a little hard on my boots.
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Feb 29, 2016 20:53
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kastein posted:As noted, Carolinas for me. I nuke a pair about every 12-18 months... I'm 15 months into the current pair and there aren't any holes in the leather yet. I could probably keep the leather from disintegrating so badly if I actually polished them every week or two, but the soles crack and fall apart at the same rate, so I'm not really sure it'd save me anything since the soles are delaminating and cracking to pieces by the time the leather fails anyways. A hundred bucks for new boots every 18 months really isn't at the top of the budget list so I'll just suck it up and pay for new ones. Shift your laces slightly, like 1/2" every few months. I just take 1/2" from one side, and feed it through. That said, one of my boot-killers is chewing through the eyelets and hooks too. They can replace them, but at that point, there's little to nothing left of the inners, and the soles are pretty rounded. I could pay the $75 for a re-sole, but that won't fix the inner. The boots end up being about $200 with the coupon, which is well-worth it to me. OH, I can't believe I didn't mention this earlier. Buy a boot dryer if you only have one pair, or like warm boots I've got a Peet dryer that's been plugged in for at least 6 years now, and I rotate my boots onto it all the time. I take a pair off to put them on, and the other pair (which has been sitting overnight to dry out a little) goes onto the dryer. It makes the inners last a lot longer, and there's nothing quite like popping your feet into warm, dry boots, even in the summer. http://smile.amazon.com/PEET-Dryer-Original-2-Shoe-Electric/dp/B001J4HQ76 If you live in the cold part of the world, the glove attachments are loving awesome too. I use thick vinyl-dipped fisherman's gloves for shoveling/winter work, and they start to smell like ammonia from the sweat if you don't get them really dry, which is nearly impossible without a mechanism to hold them open. http://smile.amazon.com/PEET-Dryer-Glove-DryPort-Attachment/dp/B001JJ4FWK/ I actually have a second Peet dryer dedicated to the gloves in the winter. Yay Christmas presents from family members who are practical!
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Feb 29, 2016 21:02
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sharkytm posted:Buy a boot dryer if you only have one pair, or like warm boots I've got a Peet dryer that's been plugged in for at least 6 years now, and I rotate my boots onto it all the time. I take a pair off to put them on, and the other pair (which has been sitting overnight to dry out a little) goes onto the dryer. It makes the inners last a lot longer, and there's nothing quite like popping your feet into warm, dry boots, even in the summer. http://smile.amazon.com/PEET-Dryer-Original-2-Shoe-Electric/dp/B001J4HQ76 I've actually got one of these things, and it is indeed tits! Thanks so much for the boot recommendations, I had no idea there were so many great options! I settled on a pair of Redwings from Shoebuy.com because one of their 25% off coupon codes (Rr2592264aeq) worked when I don't think it was supposed to, so I saved a good chunk of change off normal retail price (80$ with 10$ in rewards tacked on, plus no tax and free shipping). I did make a list for next time though, since trying to find shoes for my gigantic sasquatch feet is an excruciating experience that usually ends in "We don't serve your kind here" kastein posted:While you're at it, get a pair of ironlaces for whatever boots you buy. Here's the ones I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AK9EW6O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
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Mar 1, 2016 01:26
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I dunno what you consider gigantic sasquatch feet, but I really do like that Carolinas are available in size 14 because otherwise I'd be screwed. Yes, they come with oars. IIRC one of my goon friends with size 16 feet gets a free outboard with every other pair though, so I feel kinda left out.
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Mar 1, 2016 01:46
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I wear size 16 EEEE and Carolina logger boots are the only ones I buy. Period.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:22
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Hi tool thread, recommend me a multimeter please!
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Mar 1, 2016 05:32
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iForge posted:I wear size 16 EEEE and Carolina logger boots are the only ones I buy. Period. For the love of god, please tell me where I can find worthwhile 13 EEEEEE boots. Hitchcock is the only place I know and their boots come pre-ruined with popped stitches and spots of missing glue right out of the box. 
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Mar 1, 2016 05:38
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Hi tool thread, recommend me a multimeter please!
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Mar 1, 2016 05:40
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Krakkles posted:Depends on what you're doing, of course, but for most functions, the often-free harbor freight item is just fine. It does all the basics and is reasonably accurate/tough. Huh I thought I'd seen them kinda panned around here. I can't believe I don't have one already honestly, I'll get one there to have as a spare at some point but I don't mind spending more than zero dollars for a decent one that will last forever. Uses would be fixing my constantly making GBS threads the bed Jeeps, plus light to medium duty around the house stuff. Budget $20-30?
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Mar 1, 2016 05:47
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Hi tool thread, recommend me a multimeter please! FLUKE, just do it.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:48
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Huh I thought I'd seen them kinda panned around here. I can't believe I don't have one already honestly, I'll get one there to have as a spare at some point but I don't mind spending more than zero dollars for a decent one that will last forever. Uses would be fixing my constantly making GBS threads the bed Jeeps, plus light to medium duty around the house stuff. Budget $20-30? It is similar to the blender suggestions. Get the FLUKE (vitamix) or get the cheapest thing you can find aka the HF meter. Assuming this is for automotive use on anything 12 or 6 volt.
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Mar 1, 2016 06:01
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Guys, this poo poo is supposed to be our happy place. Why not buyi the best that we can? Why rival in what we can get away with? gently caress, tools to us dudes should be like bags to woman. Not understood but appreciated.
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Mar 1, 2016 06:07
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HF until you find out why you need something better. It's free.
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Mar 1, 2016 06:07
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eddiewalker posted:HF until you find out why you need something better. It's free. Makes sense. I'm all about spending a little more for nice poo poo but I don't think I can justify a Fluke when I barely even know how to use one lol. I'll get the HF or something cheap with good reviews off Amazon, will step it up to something nicer if I end up working it to death
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Mar 1, 2016 06:11
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eddiewalker posted:HF until you find out why you need something better. It's free.
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Mar 1, 2016 06:35
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HF until you find a Fluke that fell off the back of a truck or your employer buys you one.
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Mar 1, 2016 06:46
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Yup, I rocked no name multi-meters until I got an AMProbe pocket meter for $10. That was good for some poo poo, but I found a fluke 87V for $75 on craigslist and jumped on it like white on bread. I love that meter. Spent some time cleaning the poo poo out of it, and it doesn't look too bad now either for a $75 meter. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PM-60-Digital-Multi-Meter-Amprobe-/181996631959?hash=item2a5fd83797:g:krsAAOxy039TNeKP Sadi fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 07:17
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Anything that does true RMS is probably decent; UNI-T looks like the cheap end on ebay. My cheap meter (besides the free HF trunk meter) is one of these. It's not bad, but it's not great either. Solid build quality, and I like the lit probe reminders, but I wouldn't really trust it to be super accurate. Plus I got kind of tired of buying AAAs for it.
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Mar 1, 2016 07:51
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DO NOT BUY A UNI-T METER. They are horribly unsafe and incredibly poorly calibrated, see any number of EEVBlog Uni-T meter reviews/teardowns/rants. I personally use one of these Agilent/Keysight units and it is A+ http://www.amazon.com/Agilent-Techn...keywords=u1232a (I actually have the 1233 because it wasn't any more expensive) but I recognize most people ain't gonna drop US$175 on a multimeter. I highly recommend this $50 extech meter, though: http://www.tequipment.net/ExtechEX420.asp?v=7231 as does Dave Jones (who mostly knows his poo poo, despite his loving intolerable voice) - if I only had 50 bux for a meter, that's where I'd go. The babby Extech is fine too - http://www.tequipment.net/ExtechEX330.asp?v=67159 E: And yeah, I know the lack of safety on uni-T meters isn't a huge deal on low voltage stuff, but you just know at some point you're gonna want to test something hooked up to the mains with this meter and it could literally explode in your face... Besides, the absurdly low calibration spec is just atrocious. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 12:36
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Does anyone use an ultrasonic cleaner for parts? I find myself doing very detailed cleanings of small bike/car/whatever parts and I've been looking at small (~1-2 liter) ultrasonic cleaners. Looks like they could do what I do, better than I do it, in less time...
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Mar 1, 2016 13:04
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EVERYWHERE 
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Preoptopus posted:Guys, this poo poo is supposed to be our happy place. Why not buyi the best that we can? Why rival in what we can get away with? gently caress, tools to us dudes should be like bags to woman. Not understood but appreciated. Sometimes, a grocery bag will do the trick. Use it once, throw it away. meatpimp posted:Does anyone use an ultrasonic cleaner for parts? I find myself doing very detailed cleanings of small bike/car/whatever parts and I've been looking at small (~1-2 liter) ultrasonic cleaners. Looks like they could do what I do, better than I do it, in less time... 25% Simplegreen + 75% distilled water. http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2011/05/cleaning-bs-34-carbs-from-81-xs650.html 
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Mar 1, 2016 13:51
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So I'd like to get an air hammer. Mainly going to be using it on bolts stuck in bushings (control arms, shocks), or other really weird stuff like vibrating bolts and screws loose. I'd don't really have a brand preference. I like my Ingersoll-rand battery powered tools - but I don't actually own any air powered tools at all. I'm in a shop with dual 480v compressors running at 150psi, so air ain't an issue.
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Mar 1, 2016 13:57
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0toShifty posted:So I'd like to get an air hammer. Mainly going to be using it on bolts stuck in bushings (control arms, shocks), or other really weird stuff like vibrating bolts and screws loose. Keep it in the family. IR is a great way to go when getting into air tools. IR 121 is the best bang (er clank I suppose) for your buck air hammer out there. The new 118 and 122 look pretty nice and comfy too.
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Mar 1, 2016 14:02
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Does anybody have any experience with the HF 30" metal brake? I need to do some bending on some sheet metal this weekend and I'll be picking one up. General consensus of what I can find online seems to be 'it's not crap.'
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Mar 1, 2016 15:15
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Hi tool thread, recommend me a multimeter please! I'm going to skip the harbor freight recommendation and recommend an Innova auto ranging multimeter. They used to be twenty bucks, looks like they went up a few bucks, but it's got everything you need for testing car stuff and is even pretty handy for troubleshooting stuff around the house. I've had mine for years, and it's accuracy is virtually indistinguishable from my fluke clamp meter. Has all the basic stuff you'll need and nothing you don't. Most compelling reason is that it's auto ranging, so it will automatically adjust it's measurement for the voltage. It's well built with good internal components, and even UL listed, no ETL bullshit E: another thing I like is the battery testing function, it'll put a small load on the batteries so you can get a more accurate measurement of the internal voltage to tell you if the battery is good or not. Only big thing you can't do with it is measure AC current, but you'd probably want a line splitter and clamp multimeter to do that anyways Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 15:46
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Keep it in the family. IR is a great way to go when getting into air tools. Brand wise, IR, Cleco/Dotco, Atlas Copco. Can't really go wrong with any of those. I wouldn't be afraid to go used on any of those as you should be able to get rebuild parts pretty easily.
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Mar 1, 2016 15:55
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For multimeters - - single-digit price option: Get a free HF one and put a brand new good brand battery in it before it starts giving you wonky readings and confusing you. - high price: Fluke, BK Industrial, et al. Save this expense for when you need to work on something that's over 12VDC (high voltage = you REALLY want a quality meter, the cheap lovely ones will pretty much set you on fire while electrocuting you if you gently caress with high voltages wrong) or need the precision a double to triple digit priced meter will give you.
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Mar 1, 2016 15:57
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