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Ahh gently caress I just realized something. All of the spark plugs have oil on them, not just one or two, so the odds of each cylinder having a blown valve stem seal seems pretty low to me. Could a blown head gasket allow that amount of oil into the combustion chamber? This is yet again on my 2002 Golf 2.0L and no, I can't just get rid of it because it has like 3 more years of payments left on it and nobody's gonna pay what I paid.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:11
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Does it smell sweet (coolant)?
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Mar 2, 2016 23:23
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Not sure, but I'll check that out.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:26
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Anyone have any experience with Eastwood rust encapsulator, or otherwise suggest a POR-15 alternative that doesn't have a per unit cost on par with unicorn blood?
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Mar 2, 2016 23:38
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Geoj posted:Anyone have any experience with Eastwood rust encapsulator, or otherwise suggest a POR-15 alternative that doesn't have a per unit cost on par with unicorn blood? My experience with POR-15 is that it covers an incredible area. Even if it did cost me $4 per oz. (6 pack of 2oz cans). Edit: I used one 2oz can and one full can of spray paint per axle on my pickup, for reference, 2 coats each. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 00:01
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Geoj posted:Anyone have any experience with Eastwood rust encapsulator, or otherwise suggest a POR-15 alternative that doesn't have a per unit cost on par with unicorn blood?
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Mar 3, 2016 00:03
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StormDrain posted:My experience with POR-15 is that it covers an incredible area. Even if it did cost me $4 per oz. (6 pack of 2oz cans). I have the opposite problem - I only need to paint over the bottom edge of a single door. Its also my understanding that once you pop a can of POR-15 the clock is ticking and you can't store it long term after opening, so an aerosol can would work much better for my application.
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Mar 3, 2016 00:15
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Where can I buy various lengths of color coded wire? Stuff like purple/black and such.
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Mar 3, 2016 04:50
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Ebay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTOMOTIVE-WIRE-16-AWG-HIGH-TEMP-TXL-WIRE-10-COLORS-25-EA-COLOR-/191656828835?hash=item2c9fa31fa3:g:n84AAOSwHnFVxhjl
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Mar 3, 2016 05:35
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So my sister was talking about how I would be better off spending like $16,000 to get a newer car from 2013 and low miles rather than spending $9000 to get a car from 2009 with moderately high miles. She states that it is more likely for the former car to last significantly longer and I will get more for my money. She says she now uses a rule of thumb to not get a car older than 3 years old since she got her current car when it was 5 years old and five years later it is starting to show problems that I listed earlier (Honda Civic). How true is this?
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Mar 3, 2016 16:48
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punk rebel ecks posted:So my sister was talking about how I would be better off spending like $16,000 to get a newer car from 2013 and low miles rather than spending $9000 to get a car from 2009 with moderately high miles. She states that it is more likely for the former car to last significantly longer and I will get more for my money. She says she now uses a rule of thumb to not get a car older than 3 years old since she got her current car when it was 5 years old and five years later it is starting to show problems that I listed earlier (Honda Civic). How true is this?
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Mar 3, 2016 17:00
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I am seriously looking at a 2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 2wd with just under 140k miles. I had a pre-purchase inspection done at my local Toyota dealer yesterday and the report came back with the following maintenance items to be addressed: Left front strut leaking, transmission pan gasket leaking, and valve cover gasket leaking. The report also mentioned that the door lock was "inoperable at times" and that the front end had a slight shake over bumps (possibly due to the front strut leak?). They did not find anything major and the car has been barely driven for the past two years. Is there anything concerning I should be aware of or is just a matter of replacing the struts and the gaskets in question? I had not noticed the door lock issue when I looked it over but the truck appears to have an aftermarket alarm (w/ fob) and the current owner only has a hardware store copy of the key, so I do not know if that might be that issue.
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Mar 3, 2016 17:11
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Sharzak posted:Yo I have a warranty on my car (2011 A4) so I get it serviced by the Audi dealership. They are outwardly very friendly people. I took my car in in September or so because the transmission was lurching. They charged me for software updates for like 200 bucks (how the gently caress something could break and need software updates to fix was beyond me but they wouldn't do anything else without charging me to tear apart my transmission, the diagnostics of which wouldn't be covered under warranty) and it didn't fix the problem. Ask them to email you (not text) pictures of the undercarriage of your car. Get out the actual paperwork for your warranty. (You have paperwork, right?) Call the number on it and just ask general questions about what is and is not covered. Note time, date, person you're talking to on all calls. They are charging you for being outwardly friendly by the way, it's part of the cost of your repairs at a Audi/Mercedes/BMW dealership. They're also charging you for a loaner car so make sure you get that, too if you for some reason decide to give them more money.
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Mar 3, 2016 17:14
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I grew up shooting rifles and shotguns, so I hate shooting a pistol because I feel like I have no control over it without a shoulder stock. What do you all feel like about a pistol-caliber carbine for home protection, instead of a shotgun or rifle-caliber SBR? Or should I just learn to shoot a pistol properly?
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Mar 3, 2016 18:50
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Is it a blue pistol or a red pistol?
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Mar 3, 2016 18:55
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Friar Zucchini posted:I grew up shooting rifles and shotguns, so I hate shooting a pistol because I feel like I have no control over it without a shoulder stock. What do you all feel like about a pistol-caliber carbine for home protection, instead of a shotgun or rifle-caliber SBR? Or should I just learn to shoot a pistol properly? Sorry, the hoplosexuals are in TFR.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:05
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Friar Zucchini posted:I grew up shooting rifles and shotguns, so I hate shooting a pistol because I feel like I have no control over it without a shoulder stock. What do you all feel like about a pistol-caliber carbine for home protection, instead of a shotgun or rifle-caliber SBR? Or should I just learn to shoot a pistol properly? I tried to think of a funny AI car-related way to answer this, but instead here is my real answer. Go to a gun range that rents and try different pistols. Try different frame sizes and different calibers. Don't be afraid to try .380ACP or 9mm just because some macho dude said they don't have enough "stopping power". Also, shoot a bunch through a .22LR pistol to migrate your long gun fundamentals to a pistol. You can get familiar and learn control over any firearm, assuming you do not have a degenerative muscle condition. Tl;dr: Drive manual on someone elses car to learn, then buy what is right for you 
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Mar 3, 2016 19:10
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Friar Zucchini posted:I grew up shooting rifles and shotguns, so I hate shooting a pistol because I feel like I have no control over it without a shoulder stock. What do you all feel like about a pistol-caliber carbine for home protection, instead of a shotgun or rifle-caliber SBR? Or should I just learn to shoot a pistol properly? Pretty sure the answer is miata.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:30
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I tried to think of a funny AI car-related way to answer this, but instead here is my real answer. Go to a gun range that rents and try different pistols. Try different frame sizes and different calibers. Don't be afraid to try .380ACP or 9mm just because some macho dude said they don't have enough "stopping power". Also, shoot a bunch through a .22LR pistol to migrate your long gun fundamentals to a pistol. You can get familiar and learn control over any firearm, assuming you do not have a degenerative muscle condition. That, and pistol caliber carbines are amazing and you should absolutely get one.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:40
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I am an intelligent human being and posted my question in the correct forum where it properly belongs. 
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Mar 3, 2016 19:50
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Got an oil change this morning at Midas and asked them to check out a medium-volume rattling noise from my 2005 Kia Spectra's engine that comes on for a couple minutes after start-up and then disappears. They weren't 100% sure what it was, but they figured it had to have something to do with the exhaust and pointed out that the car's flex pipe has a significant leak and needs to be replaced. The mechanic quoted me $150 for that, which seemed reasonable, but added that there was some rust around there and he wanted to do a closer inspection of the area to see if it's just surface rust that could be scraped off for welding, or if they'd need to replace the flange and other stuff too. He said the worst-case scenario is that if there's enough non-surface rust they might need to do something with the catalytic converter, which he indicated would be much more expensive. What are we talking about with something like that? $500, $1,000? More? Also, does his explanation make sense? It seems to me like if the rattling was tied to the exhaust system, then it wouldn't stop after a minute or two, but I don't really know what I'm talking about.
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Mar 3, 2016 20:20
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surf rock posted:Got an oil change this morning at Midas and asked them to check out a medium-volume rattling noise from my 2005 Kia Spectra's engine that comes on for a couple minutes after start-up and then disappears. They weren't 100% sure what it was, but they figured it had to have something to do with the exhaust and pointed out that the car's flex pipe has a significant leak and needs to be replaced. Cracks in the exhaust could close up when the exhaust gets hot. That also means that the crack is propagating with every heat cycle you put it through.
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Mar 3, 2016 20:25
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My eyes are veering toward this car. Seems like a good deal?
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Mar 3, 2016 23:53
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Pretty good price and mileage. See what condition it's in. get a jeeeep
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Mar 4, 2016 00:03
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Safety Dance posted:Pretty good price and mileage. See what condition it's in. Seems to be in excellent condition. I'll use this as barometer for my future purchases.
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Mar 4, 2016 00:05
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Hope you guys can help me figure out if the mechanic at my local Honda dealer was trying to rip me off. I've got a 2002 CRV that I took in to take care of 2 recalls, the airbags. As part of bringing it in, they did an inspection for me. So I get a call from them and they tell me I've got a "bad oil leak". He doesn't give me any details about how much oil I'm low, or where the leak might be. I've never seen any oil on the ground in the parking spot that I use every day either at home or at work. I mentioned this to the guy on the phone and he tells me that oh it could be being absorbed by something or other and it won't show on the ground. Then he tells me that in order to find out where the leak is, he has to use some sort of diagnostic tool that will cost $80 to even hook up to the car. So when I told him that I'd rather just leave it, he hangs up the phone. No yes sir, no goodbye, just hangs up. So I immediately felt like I did the right thing considering his attitude. So what does this sound like to you, oh stupid question thread?
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Mar 4, 2016 00:55
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Rufio posted:Hope you guys can help me figure out if the mechanic at my local Honda dealer was trying to rip me off. Have another non-dealership mechanic take a look at it. When you check your oil, is it low?
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Mar 4, 2016 00:59
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Good choice. And check your oil regularly.
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Mar 4, 2016 01:00
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PaintVagrant posted:Have another non-dealership mechanic take a look at it. When you check your oil, is it low? I'll be the first to admit that I don't regularly check my oil levels, but I'll pay attention to it from now on. I checked it just now, and its about half way between the two dots on my dipstick. It's been about 6mo since my last oil change, maybe more since I don't put many miles on my car. Its the diagnostic tool for $80 that really threw up a red flag for me. Does this make any sense to use in order to find a "bad oil leak"? I'm gonna try to find someone reputable to take a look at it.
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Mar 4, 2016 01:20
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Rufio posted:So when I told him that I'd rather just leave it, he hangs up the phone. No yes sir, no goodbye, just hangs up. A diagnostic fee to move forwards figuring out a problem is fine. This is not. Speak to their manager or Honda USA corporate. That is not going to book overpriced dealership repair costs. If it's a "obvious oil leak" that they apparently noticed visually ask them to show it to you after talking to their manager.
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Mar 4, 2016 01:25
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Some shops see oil on the motor somewhere and they want to clean it up to see where the leak is from. That may be the 80 dollar charge. I would put some cardboard under your car and check your oil everytime you fill your tank. If you dont see any oil underneath and the level isnt moving, youre probably fine. I think the 2002 CRV is a K-series motor, and they tend to burn a little oil in their old age, so checking your oil more frequently is probably a good idea.
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Mar 4, 2016 01:35
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punk rebel ecks posted:So my sister was talking about how I would be better off spending like $16,000 to get a newer car from 2013 and low miles rather than spending $9000 to get a car from 2009 with moderately high miles. She states that it is more likely for the former car to last significantly longer and I will get more for my money. She says she now uses a rule of thumb to not get a car older than 3 years old since she got her current car when it was 5 years old and five years later it is starting to show problems that I listed earlier (Honda Civic). How true is this? I'm driving a 2006 that I bought in 2013 with 66k (now has 132k) - domestic at that. So far the only non-maintenance stuff it's needed has been a battery ($130) and thermostat ($20 + $20 worth of coolant, since it was way overdue to be changed). It's needed a fuel pump as well, but GM paid for it though a special coverage thing (plastic fitting on the original pump cracked, causing it to leak). Aside from that it's needed stuff like light bulbs and a couple of pieces of trim replaced, but those didn't affect the driveability. In my eyes, maintenance means far more than miles. I'd have no problem buying a high mile car if it has maintenance records showing it's been taken care of. Also, I'm guessing her Civic is a... 2006, based on your description? If so, 2006 was the first year of an all-new Civic (I don't think anything carried over from the prior generation, not even the engine), and it took until at least 2008 for them to get some really serious issues taken care of (such as the engine block cracking at random). I wouldn't touch a 6th gen Civic at all unless it was an Si, personally. PaintVagrant posted:I think the 2002 CRV is a K-series motor Correct, 2002 was the first year of the K24 in the CRV. Prior models used a B20, which was most closely related to an Integra RS/LS/GS engine.
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Mar 4, 2016 06:18
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Rufio posted:Its the diagnostic tool for $80 that really threw up a red flag for me. Does this make any sense to use in order to find a "bad oil leak"? I'm gonna try to find someone reputable to take a look at it. Likely they just wanted to charge you to find out where some seepage was coming from, but the bewildering choice of service writer speak was uncalled for. No, there isn't a diagnostic tool that they can plug in and magically find oil leaks and you were right to be concerned. Generally my rule of thumb for oil leaks is that if it isn't leaving drops on the ground or a big streak along the bottom then it's a problem for future me. A lot of cars seep oil for years with no ill effect, and some seep for a week until some gasket lets go and they start pissing it everywhere. If you're concerned, finding someone trustworthy to source the leak may at least give you an idea of what future you is in for repair wise but honestly I'd just check the oil levels over the next week or two and wait for it to get worse, if there is a problem at all that is.
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Mar 4, 2016 07:20
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How is the Nissan Leaf? Reliable? Is finding charging stations a pain in the rear end? The insane miles per "gallon" it gets intrigues me.some texas redneck posted:I'm driving a 2006 that I bought in 2013 with 66k (now has 132k) - domestic at that. So far the only non-maintenance stuff it's needed has been a battery ($130) and thermostat ($20 + $20 worth of coolant, since it was way overdue to be changed). It's needed a fuel pump as well, but GM paid for it though a special coverage thing (plastic fitting on the original pump cracked, causing it to leak). Thanks, this helps a lot.
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Mar 4, 2016 15:06
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I have one of those fancy ODBII bluetooth devices in my car that is designed to allow android dashboard hook up to Torque. I've got a stupid layman question about it. ODBII can control things as well as read them, right? Like DBW stuff? If the bluetooth password is insecure (IE - the manufacturer doesn't allow the password to be changed), what's to stop a prankster from doing bad things with the ODBII?
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Mar 4, 2016 16:19
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diadem posted:I have one of those fancy ODBII bluetooth devices in my car that is designed to allow android dashboard hook up to Torque. Automotive electronics are notoriously insecure. There has already been a publicized hack for Jeeps with Bluetooth entertainment options; it's got a recall of some kind going, to be fair, but not all of the affected vehicles have been fixed yet. I wouldn't be surprised if something like that comes up again every year for the next few years until auto makers take some security measures, like not hooking every electronic device up to the same CANBUS. If your car not only has throttle-by-wire, but shifter-by-wire, steering-by-wire, etc., then a compromised stereo can change your gear selection, floor your gas, cause lane departures, etc. Some neat features, like being able to select throttle curves, require some communication there, but it appears that no one has considered how easy it would be to hack bluetooth-enabled stereos.
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Mar 4, 2016 16:30
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That said, most of the bluetooth OBDII readers only have the pins required to read the basic data from your OBDII port, and don't present an attack vector.
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Mar 4, 2016 16:39
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When I have my old truck up on jacks should i be able to turn the driver side tire left and right by hand? The passenger side tire stays locked.
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Mar 4, 2016 17:03
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Crash74 posted:When I have my old truck up on jacks should i be able to turn the driver side tire left and right by hand? The passenger side tire stays locked. How much? Something is broken or really worn out, you need to narrow that down.
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Mar 4, 2016 17:05
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EightBit posted:How much? Something is broken or really worn out, you need to narrow that down. It will go back and forth the entire stroke left / right.
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Mar 4, 2016 17:30
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