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Jonny Nox posted:Well it's not Hobby Friend people. We all know he's got people riding his rear end too, so a bit of strictness is not surprising. Like a hobby boss.
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Mar 1, 2016 23:35
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Welp, I think I'm calling it quits on my Scrapyard Gundam. This was just supposed to be a learning experience, and I think I've learned quite a bit. I may go back and clean some stuff up a bit and redo the hands then matte coat the entire thing. All in all, I'm pretty ok with the way my chipping came out. Not really ok with using Tamiya Smoke as a panel liner. Live and learn, I guess. Up next I've got an old Revell F16 from the 80's, a Mobius Battlestar Galactica Viper II, and an Tamiya 1/32 F-14. Not sure which one I want to tackle. EDIT This is also the first time I've done absolutely anything with an airbrush, and the first time I've built anything besides Warhams. 
EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 02:52
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EdsTeioh posted:Welp, I think I'm calling it quits on my Scrapyard Gundam. This was just supposed to be a learning experience, and I think I've learned quite a bit. I may go back and clean some stuff up a bit and redo the hands then matte coat the entire thing. All in all, I'm pretty ok with the way my chipping came out. Not really ok with using Tamiya Smoke as a panel liner. Live and learn, I guess. Up next I've got an old Revell F16 from the 80's, a Mobius Battlestar Galactica Viper II, and an Tamiya 1/32 F-14. Not sure which one I want to tackle. The viper 2 is a super easy and fun kit. You should do that one first.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:01
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Troll Bridgington posted:The viper 2 is a super easy and fun kit. You should do that one first. I remember someone doing a build of one earlier in the thread and it KILLED. I've wanted to build it since. I'm not sure if I want to jump into that or work on a WWII fighter though. I've had an attraction to South Pacific Theater fighters lately. The build I was thinking of was on pg 100 buy Big_G. Looks like the links to his step by step are dead though... :-( EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 03:05
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EdsTeioh posted:I remember someone doing a build of one earlier in the thread and it KILLED. I've wanted to build it since. I'm not sure if I want to jump into that or work on a WWII fighter though. I've had an attraction to South Pacific Theater fighters lately. Having options is nice. The viper was nice for me because the assembly was so easy I was able to focus more on painting. Now it's sitting in my work cubicle. I haven't built anything since the summer, but I might be getting back into it soon. The apartment I'm moving into is right down the road from a Hobby Bench! 
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Mar 2, 2016 03:18
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Do you have pics of your Viper? Also, did you decal the stripes or mask and paint?
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Mar 2, 2016 03:19
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EdsTeioh posted:Do you have pics of your Viper? Also, did you decal the stripes or mask and paint? Sure!  Before weathering and painting the base Finished productI painted the stripes since I was feeling a tad ambitious. The stripes didn't turn out that great in certain areas since I was painting mostly with rattlecans at the time, and the masking didn't work as well as I wanted. I'm seriously considering building a new one so I can give it a shot with the airbrush this time around.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:26
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Oh god this rules. Yeah, I'm building this next. Thanks Troll! The ONLY thing I can think that would make this better would be weathering and distressing the stripes. I guess the best way to achieve that would be to base coat the white, hairspray, then do the stripes. Chip them then seal, the weather, I guess?
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Mar 2, 2016 03:32
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EdsTeioh posted:Oh god this rules. Yeah, I'm building this next. Thanks Troll! The ONLY thing I can think that would make this better would be weathering and distressing the stripes. I guess the best way to achieve that would be to base coat the white, hairspray, then do the stripes. Chip them then seal, the weather, I guess? No problem! Have fun! Make sure to post pics. Definitely try weathering the stripes. That is the one thing I wish I did before calling it quits. I also wish I went with a matte clear coat, but oh well. It was such a fun kit that I can't see a downside to making another, so maybe that will be my warmup once I get setup at my apartment.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:36
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I can't remember right now and my kit is in the garage, but isn't there a mask for painting the stripes on the decal sheet?
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Mar 2, 2016 03:42
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EdsTeioh posted:I can't remember right now and my kit is in the garage, but isn't there a mask for painting the stripes on the decal sheet? I think there were only the decals. I remember using the decals as a stencil.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:53
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Troll Bridgington posted:I think there were only the decals. I remember using the decals as a stencil. How did you do that?
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Mar 2, 2016 03:56
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EdsTeioh posted:How did you do that? I think I just cut the decals and used them as a guide for putting down the tape. Nothing too fancy.
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Mar 2, 2016 05:27
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Anyone in the Los Angeles area this coming weekend, there is a pretty big model show called ValleyCon 2016 (last year had about 670 entries is what I read) being held at the Petersen Automotive Museum on the 6th (Sunday) from 10 - 4. I'm sort of kind of considering driving out there with my boat, as much to see the museum as the model show, as I understand it's a pretty worthwhile museum to visit. Entry in the model show includes entry to the museum. https://valleycon.wordpress.com/
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Mar 2, 2016 05:43
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It makes me sad there isn't more car stuff on here so I thought I'd post some WIP stuff. Note that I have only just started with the hobby, having botched a terrible airfix plane (don't remember what it was) and did a passable job on the 1:72 Airfix P71 Mustang as my entry points. Painting is still very hard but I think I'm slowly getting better. Not looking forward to doing the actual shell and trying to get a blemish-free glossy coat, especially since I can't just weather over it  Tamiya Fiat Abarth 695 I've mixed up a nice body colour and done the main chassis/floor pans, plus engine and primary suspension components. Some small interior bits next, then the dreaded shell...        Ugh I need to redo those horrible exhaust pipe holes. Should I buy a pin vice and put real holes in them or just paint the whole end black? Also whats the consensus on weathering cars? I tried putting some very light oil stains/shading on the transmission and block but nothing too crazy. And I've left the suspension pretty much factory-fresh. I think they look a bit too sterile being completely perfect.
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Mar 2, 2016 13:53
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EdsTeioh posted:I remember someone doing a build of one earlier in the thread and it KILLED. I've wanted to build it since. I'm not sure if I want to jump into that or work on a WWII fighter though. I've had an attraction to South Pacific Theater fighters lately. That's my old hosting which has since perished I'm afraid, sorry about that. I'm rushed at work today but here is a dump of the pictures re hosted in order of painting steps. I hope they are useful but if anyone has any questions please just ask. (Sorry for the dump)                    
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Mar 2, 2016 15:55
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big_g posted:That's my old hosting which has since perished I'm afraid, sorry about that. I'm rushed at work today but here is a dump of the pictures re hosted in order of painting steps. I hope they are useful but if anyone has any questions please just ask. (Sorry for the dump) Awesome; thank you SO much. This thing is amazing. How did you get the chipping on the stripes? Similar to what I discussed earlier?
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Mar 2, 2016 16:13
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Granite Octopus posted:Also whats the consensus on weathering cars? I tried putting some very light oil stains/shading on the transmission and block but nothing too crazy. And I've left the suspension pretty much factory-fresh. I think they look a bit too sterile being completely perfect. For me, it depends on what it is. I prefer models to look as close to their "natural state" as could be. It makes sense for tanks and stuff to be a bit beat up, they are driving through forests. I'd also weather up a WWII war bird, but not a commercial liner. For a 60's muscle car, those things are babied more than actual babies, so they would be spotless. There is a GMC pickup with a snow plow attachment that I've been looking at, it would look battered and worn.
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Mar 2, 2016 16:26
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That Viper is frakking gorgeous  .
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Mar 2, 2016 16:27
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I always do the clean "museum look" on my models, but I pretty much only build racecars, and most are pre-1990. If they were real, they'd actually be in museums. Wouldn't feel right doing it on an AFV though.
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Mar 2, 2016 16:53
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So I just got some Alclad "airframe aluminum" paint for a natural metal finish on a P-51....what is the best primer to use with this to get a "used but not abused" look? The internet seems to like automotive primer from spray cans but there's a LOT out there and it is very....confusing.
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Mar 2, 2016 17:07
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bewbies posted:So I just got some Alclad "airframe aluminum" paint for a natural metal finish on a P-51....what is the best primer to use with this to get a "used but not abused" look? The internet seems to like automotive primer from spray cans but there's a LOT out there and it is very....confusing. Alclad uses some pretty strong medium (some kind of lacquer) IIRC, so you'll probably want a pretty strong lacquer-based primer (eg. Tamiya rattlecan) coat that's been completely cured. You also are supposed to lay down a (gloss?) black coat on top of the primer before spraying the alclad aluminum. After that, you can weather on top with an oil wash to get a used look.
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Mar 2, 2016 17:16
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I dunno about "aircraft aluminum", but when I spray Alclad chrome I don't even both with primer and just spray Tamiya gloss black lacquer on the piece to be painted and then follow up with several light coats of the Alclad.
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Mar 2, 2016 17:28
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bewbies posted:So I just got some Alclad "airframe aluminum" paint for a natural metal finish on a P-51....what is the best primer to use with this to get a "used but not abused" look? The internet seems to like automotive primer from spray cans but there's a LOT out there and it is very....confusing. Triggerhappypilot posted:Alclad uses some pretty strong medium (some kind of lacquer) IIRC, so you'll probably want a pretty strong lacquer-based primer (eg. Tamiya rattlecan) coat that's been completely cured. You also are supposed to lay down a (gloss?) black coat on top of the primer before spraying the alclad aluminum. After that, you can weather on top with an oil wash to get a used look. ^^ this man gives good advice, it's what I did for my Vampire posted awhile ago. Also just FYI, Alclad must be sprayed to work properly.
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Mar 2, 2016 19:36
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Got an Airfix James Bond Autogyro a while back because I always wanted one but James Bond is a horrible man, so (yes, my figure modelling skills are horrible) Unkempt fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 22:18
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Unkempt posted:Got an Airfix James Bond Autogyro a while back because I always wanted one but James Bond is a horrible man, so oh my god
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Mar 3, 2016 04:45
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Unkempt posted:Got an Airfix James Bond Autogyro a while back because I always wanted one but James Bond is a horrible man, so It needs to be in a diorama where he's dive-bombing Trump.
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Mar 3, 2016 04:53
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:It needs to be in a diorama where he's dive-bombing Trump. Or landing on the Mall.
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Mar 3, 2016 05:26
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:It needs to be in a diorama where he's dive-bombing Trump. There is a
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Mar 3, 2016 07:08
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Crossposting from the historical miniatures thread: I've been tasked with painting up the club's Commonwealth armour, and I feel like a complete scrub without a clue. I've found what I assume is the more common colours and camo for late North Africa, Sicily and early Italy, and I'll probably go for a mix of them to. But I'm stumped when it comes to buy decals to the tanks, and where to place them. I'm thinking that 8th army would be a good choice, but there are just so many different geometrical shapes, numbers and poo poo, and I can't find a simple source that explains them all and why a lot of the actual photos I find don't have all of them. Does anyone have a good primer on Commonwealth armour markings, or recommendations for a book or something? The information I've found online hasn't really explained a lot.
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Mar 3, 2016 13:37
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This should make it clear enough for you to work with I think. The only thing to note is that regimental command tanks would have their lozenge be split half and half in the regimental colours and not necessarily the simple RYB shown, so, uh... don't get your command tanks killed?
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Mar 3, 2016 14:55
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Arquinsiel posted:This should make it clear enough for you to work with I think. The only thing to note is that regimental command tanks would have their lozenge be split half and half in the regimental colours and not necessarily the simple RYB shown, so, uh... don't get your command tanks killed? I might be daft, but no, I've seen that picture, and I still don't know how to translate that to which markings I need and where to place them. Like, why is there both army and divison markings on the decal sheets, when that diagram only has the division marking? Which would be used, one or both? When (and where) would a commonwealth tank have the allied star, because I sometime see it and sometimes not, and sometimes it's on the front or side, and sometimes just on the top? How do those squares with numbers actually work, since the diagram has both a black marking as well as red markings, and then different numbers everywhere? In short, practical terms: if I paint up around 10-12 tanks of various types that are supposed to operate together in Sicily or Italy, what would be a reasonable way to mark them?
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Mar 3, 2016 15:17
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The allied star is an air recognition device used after the USA entered the war, prior to that it was the red-white-blue-yellow roundel. Anything not on top of the tanks is probably "just in case" recognition markers for friendly AT gunners. The squadron marking is usually on the left side of the turret. The divisional making is on the left front and rear mudguards, or as close to where they would be as possible on the hull to make them visible. The stenciled battalion identification number goes on the opposite side. I've never seen an army level insignia on anything but Monty's Grant, and there it took the place of a battalion ID number, so I suppose that's why they include them on decal sheets - Army-level command tanks. Obviously no division marker is needed there. So just pick a division and find out what number its component battalions had, or say "they never bothered to paint them on what with the crazy tank attrition rates in the desert" which is also technically correct. ETA: most important, when you work out what squadron you are using you name all your tanks using that letter as the first of the name. Varies from unit to unit, some named them after towns in the UK, some after badass traits and some seemed to just try make the whole thing into a penis joke (best option).
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Mar 3, 2016 15:43
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Also, googling something like this might help? Or the Imperial War Museum collections: http://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/search?query=tanks%20%20italy&items_per_page=10&f[0]=mediaType%3Aimage edit:huh, that url won't parse monsignor. Try http://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/search to start from. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 15:56
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Arquinsiel posted:The allied star is an air recognition device used after the USA entered the war, prior to that it was the red-white-blue-yellow roundel. Anything not on top of the tanks is probably "just in case" recognition markers for friendly AT gunners. I see. And if we're just talking a few tanks, not on a divisional level, this diagram is what I should be looking at? http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/all_images/Historical/FKandC/NZ4tharmoured-05.jpg And I could pretty much give all tanks (except those who would be recce or regimental HQ) the same squadron and regimental markings?
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Mar 3, 2016 16:39
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lilljonas posted:I see. And if we're just talking a few tanks, not on a divisional level, this diagram is what I should be looking at?
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Mar 3, 2016 16:53
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Now what is this jackass doing painting the fuselage halves before gluing them together? Well the thing is I will build it with all doors open, and masking all these holes from the outside would be a major pain. I'll just have to sand the seam and paint it again afterwards. I sure hope this won't turn into an even bigger pain.
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Mar 3, 2016 17:23
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I usually paint inside the hull before assembly and then mask everything with lots and lots of painter's tape. When doing turrets it's pretty easy to reach inside through the turret ring, but I guess not so much for helicopters.
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Mar 3, 2016 17:36
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There's a step by step of Chris Floodberg's water technique in the April issue of Fine Scale Modeler (it's also the cover photo).
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Mar 3, 2016 21:19
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A couple of weeks ago I used the satin varnish 70.522 over black paint. It turned everything grey. I hadn't used that bottle before so I figured it was a bad batch or too old or something. Today I shot matt varnish (70.520) through my airbrush over black, it also turned grey. Anyone had similar problems with Vallejo varnish and have any ideas? I (used to) love the matt varnish, I've used it for years without any trouble Edit: not thinned with anything, straight out of the well shaken bottle as usual.
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Mar 3, 2016 23:00
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