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1. Options -> Properties/Settings -> Start / Exit options 2. I have had a similar thing happen if I'm using puu.sh to take a screenshot of a certain area within a game window, hitting the hotkey to use the program does not itself cause the game window to stop being the active window but when selecting the area to screenshot the game minimizes. If you have the option to play the game in borderless-windowed/fake-fullscreen that should fix it.
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Mar 3, 2016 11:08
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Both of those work, thanks.
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Mar 3, 2016 11:19
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Capture2text is immensely bad at capturing the text here. Any other, better, programs out there?
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Mar 3, 2016 20:36
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There's a program called Greenshot that does OCR, but it requires a separate component to work, you need to install "Microsoft Office Document Imaging" which is a component of a couple of other tools. Download the installer for Sharepoint, and in the installation options deselect all components except Microsoft Office Document Imaging.
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Mar 4, 2016 04:53
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Quick resizing question: I have 1080p Shadowplay footage I'm reducing to half-size (960x540) for making gif videos. In Avisynth, what's the best resize method to use? I used BicubicResize because that's what the avisynth wiki suggested, though in a different paragraph it suggested BilinearResize so  I'm not even sure it matters because I'm going from lossy source to lossy smaller to gfycat bashing it yet again, so fine details aren't at stake but what the hell. Might as well try to do it right?
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Mar 4, 2016 18:25
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For reducing sizes it really, really doesn't matter. But just try them both and see which one you like better and if you can even notice a difference, and if you can't, just use bilinear resize. The differences between them mostly involve with how they scale images up, not down.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:43
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Psion posted:Quick resizing question: Why are you shrinking it from 1080p if its going to gfycat anyhow?
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Mar 5, 2016 03:42
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Probably because of filesize/upload speed.
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Mar 5, 2016 05:06
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zolthorg posted:Why are you shrinking it from 1080p if its going to gfycat anyhow? to embed on SA without obliterating tables, mostly
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Mar 5, 2016 06:29
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Really the best way to resize a gif is just experiment in photoshop, it really depends on the gif itself.
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Mar 5, 2016 21:58
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Also webm's or gifv's are definitely a feasible alternative now; smaller in file size and cleaner looking.
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Mar 5, 2016 22:17
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I've asked this before but I think it's time to ask again- I use 3 monitors and my primary is a 1440p, and since I changed to this I can't record with my card unless I switch to 1080p resolution on it, since it's a run-through card. What are my options for : 1- Replacing the card with something that can handle 1440p 2- A software that will capture with the lowest impact to framerate, preferably something that will let me capture the last x minutes of gameplay if I hit a button (that'd be rad)
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Mar 7, 2016 20:51
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ShadowPlay can do both of those assuming you have a relatively recent Nvidia card. (You do have to tell ShadowPlay to record at native resolution: by default it will downscale to 1080p but it can record up to 4K.) I'd assume AMD has a similar feature for Radeon cards. If you're running Windows 10, the Windows 10 Game Bar can also record using similar on-card features that make the impact to the frame rate as small as possible. I'm not sure if that can record at 1440p since I've never tried using it. Keep in mind ShadowPlay only works with games that are running in full screen (unless you turn on the option to record the entire desktop). Windows 10 Game Bar might not have that limit - again, I haven't tried it.
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Mar 7, 2016 21:09
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The problem I have with the Win10 game bar is just making it recognize that I'm even playing a game. I'll give shadowplay a shot.
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Mar 7, 2016 21:10
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You can just hit Windows-G to open the Game Bar even if you're not in a game. Not sure if that will get it to record or not, but it is possible to force it open. (Which I've done only long enough to verify that it DOES exist, and that it blocks the battery meter on Xbox 360 controllers by taking over the Xbox button.)
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Mar 7, 2016 21:14
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Never worked for me. I've just tested shadowplay though and it seems perfect. Thanks!
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Mar 7, 2016 23:03
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I'm hoping this thread is the appropriate one to ask this; could anyone reccomend me a good external hard drive for a good price? I'd prefer to spend less than sixty bucks on one, so I have more storage for game recording and videos. What storage options do you guys favor?
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Mar 9, 2016 16:15
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8-Bit Scholar posted:I'm hoping this thread is the appropriate one to ask this; could anyone reccomend me a good external hard drive for a good price? I'd prefer to spend less than sixty bucks on one, so I have more storage for game recording and videos. What storage options do you guys favor? I'm a big fan of these. http://www.amazon.com/Model-Passpor...eagate+passport
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Mar 9, 2016 16:21
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ChaosArgate posted:I'm a big fan of these. That is a pretty good price; it says this is an old version, but it should still be compatible with Windows 10, right?
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Mar 9, 2016 16:30
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8-Bit Scholar posted:That is a pretty good price; it says this is an old version, but it should still be compatible with Windows 10, right? A hard drive's a hard drive. It really shouldn't matter what OS you're using, though I guess OSX doesn't play nice with NTFS? Either way that's not going to be a big deal for you since you're on Win10. (I use Win10 too and it's cool with my Passport drives)
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Mar 9, 2016 16:44
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Hi! I'm not great at seeing quality in screenshot stuff, so can someone tell me if what I tried to do to fix up the weird stretching that VLC was doing to the video I was taking them from worked. vs.   vs.   vs.  Also, does anyone know why VLC's snapshots are coning out stretched 24 pixels taller? The width is unchanged, but the shots of both screens are 512x802 when I grab them from VLC, when the video itself is 512x778. I tried forcing the aspect ratio to the correct dimensions and that didn't work.
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Mar 9, 2016 23:07
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So, what can I do to improve the quality of my audio captures? I'm not sure if it's a product of the capture or something related to Handbrake or to Adobe Premiere, but sometimes I get audio from game footage that's kind of distorted and choppy? Like there's an awful warbling background noise at times, like a bad quality microphone picking up wind or rushing water. It seems to be just poor quality audio interacting with my speakers, so I was wondering through what method I might undertake to ensure my audio fidelity is at its peak? Is there some way Handbrake can provide me this service?
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Mar 12, 2016 07:15
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Jolyne Cujoh posted:Also, does anyone know why VLC's snapshots are coning out stretched 24 pixels taller? Quick Googling turned up this from last year, maybe they still haven't fixed it yet? Short form is one of VLC's updates broke the ability to manually set snapshot aspect ratio and the only solution is to roll back to an earlier version. 8-Bit Scholar posted:So, what can I do to improve the quality of my audio captures? Could be a couple different issues here. First, is this game audio only, or does it occur in your commentary track, or both? Breaking this down first: I've had that problem and it turned out it's an interaction with using a USB condenser mic with an integrated sound card. The USB picks up interference and it manifests and this constant water/"shushing" sound. My only solution was to get an older version of Adobe Audition with Adaptive Noise Reduction and kill it at the source, and it's still not perfect. If it's in-game and not your mic, you then need to see if the problem is in the recording, or the playback. Try headphones or using a different speaker, and make sure they're as far away from your power supply and power cables as possible; just trying to isolate where the problem is. One good way to verify if the problem is your speakers or not is to see if it does that noise when you watch other videos or music online. Needless to say, listen to the track before and after you edit and compare differences. It's definitely possible your editor is introducing problems, but it's not likely (and typically there are more obvious problems if you record to a bad format or use the wrong settings and such). And last but not last, I've only ever used Handbrake to change video formats (I've had people send me FLV to edit instead of MP4  ), but essentially you can't improve audio by re-encoding it. If the flaw is in your original track, you need to keep it from getting there instead of trying to do damage control later.
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Mar 12, 2016 07:44
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Cross post from SHSC. Video related question, not sure if there's a better thread though. AV? Anyway, I have a W-VHS deck I want to do a review on. In short, W-VHS was an obscure high end analog tape format that hardly anyone knows anything about and could record 1080i over component back in the 90s (eat that DVD). I want to capture the 1080i output from the deck to cut into a video review. However, it seems like component capture devices have been dead(development, not production) for quite a while but HDMI capture is quite alive. Should I try to find an older well rated component capture device or should I get a new-ish HDMI converter and capture over converted HDMI? My reasoning is that maybe a newer component to HDMI converter box would have better hardware than an older component native capture box. Yeah I know trial and error is the best to solve these riddles but wanted to get some opinions first. edit: I'm leaning towards a Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle so I can capture on my MBP so I don't have to lug around a tower to where ever I end up setting up the deck. They seem to be only $100 used on ebay. Not sure if the chipsets in these things are all the same or not. Blackmagic seems to have a few models that can capture component but all of the other ones are pretty pricey and not really targeted towards component capture anyway.
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Mar 15, 2016 19:10
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Consider getting the Elgato Game Capture HD? The old boxy one, not the newer HD60 models. Those can do component capture right out of the box and can do 1080i just fine along with being able to do HDMI and composite out of the box and s-video with an adapter. It's a USB device too, so you don't have to lug a tower around to use it either.
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Mar 15, 2016 19:13
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ChaosArgate posted:Consider getting the Elgato Game Capture HD? The old boxy one, not the newer HD60 models. Those can do component capture right out of the box and can do 1080i just fine along with being able to do HDMI and composite out of the box and s-video with an adapter. It's a USB device too, so you don't have to lug a tower around to use it either. Hmmm, lots of decent ratings on Amazon. USB2 though? I guess that 'shouldn't' matter for 1080i....
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Mar 15, 2016 19:19
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FWIW, I've done 1080p30 just fine with it over USB2, so it really shouldn't be too big a deal. You won't get lossless captures though, if that's something you need.
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Mar 15, 2016 19:21
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ChaosArgate posted:FWIW, I've done 1080p30 just fine with it over USB2, so it really shouldn't be too big a deal. You won't get lossless captures though, if that's something you need. I kind of need near lossless for the purposes of the review. It's not about showing hours and hours of footage but to assess image quality of the media. The Blackmagic is targeted more to what I need but it doesn't have stellar reviews although a lot of them are user error types. Edit: oh I think I'll have to go with the blackmagic. The Elgato encodes to h.264 and then sends it over USB. The BM sends lossless over USB3/TB and encoding is done on the host machine which has lossless options. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Mar 15, 2016 |
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Mar 15, 2016 19:23
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Hello friends, I have a... technical enough question that I figured this was the right place vs the Sandbox. Recently I changed my image hosting from LPix to my own domain, but after weeks of trying to get around the HTTPS issues that mac users keep having (apparently iPhone can't turn off HTTPS and still can't see anything despite the SSL certificate I got ) I'm looking at going back to LPix for the in-thread images. However my thread is already a year old with nearly 2000 images and could possibly run for several more years, and one of the big reasons I went to private hosting was that I didn't know if that was an appropriate thing to saddle LPix with. I've been really really impressed by how awesome this whole community is and I absolutely do not want to abuse any services. So the question I guess is two-part: 1: Is there anything else I can do to fix the HTTPS problem for mac users trying to see my privately hosted images? And if not... 2: Is it okay for me to use LPix to host literally thousands, perhaps eventually tens of thousands of images for years and years? I would gladly make a donation towards the upkeep if that's feasible. Thank you.
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Mar 15, 2016 20:43
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Could you please link to the thread or even better a post with the problem images? That post seems to be working for me via HTTPS in both Awful.app and Mobile Safari. (Also in Firefox on OS X and on Safari on OS X.) As for LPix, ask Baldurk. I don't think he minds.
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Mar 15, 2016 21:11
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- A standard 3.5mm aux to 3.5mm aux cable - A male-to-2-female 3.5mm splitter - Cheap PC speakers that connect via 3.5mm - there is a headphone port on them that I use for my headset - A 3.5mm headest - A PS4 controller - HDMI audio from the PS4 to the Elgato - My PC, which has the full suite of line-in/out ports on it - The Elgato, which can do either HDMI audio or analog audio through a 3.5mm jack Here's the problem I'm having: Upon plugging in a headset or my speakers into the PS4 controller so I can hear the audio, the HDMI audio stops being output because the PS4 sucks. There are many combinations of these that will give me either audio that I can hear, or audio that the Elgato can hear. I cannot for the life of me determine if there is a combination of these things that will allow me to do both. So I ask you, tech support fort thread: Is there a way, with the stuff I currently have, to provide audio to both my headset (or speakers) and the Elgato? I don't care how hacked-together the solution is, my goal here is to avoid having to buy a converter. I think I've figured it out: PS4 controller -> splitter One half of splitter -> aux cable -> elgato Other half of splitter -> headset This shooould work without any annoying humming or so on. I guess the only way to know is to try it! CJacobs fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Mar 15, 2016 |
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Mar 15, 2016 21:53
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Thank you Xenoveritas, and I apologize, I'll be sure to include links from now on. I'll PM Baldurk directly.
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Mar 15, 2016 22:15
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CJacobs posted:Hello thread, I am having a real annoying problem with the Elgato Game Capture HD that perhaps you could help me puzzle out. I'm trying to record PS4 footage on it, but I cannot figure out a way to record audio while still being able to hear it in my headphones or out of my speakers. Does the PS4 have analog audio output on the console itself, and can you use that together with the HDMI output? If so, I'd suggest splitting at the PS4's analog output and send one to the Elgato and the other to the speakers. Reason to use analog output on the console is in part because there's a good chance it's higher quality (doesn't have to transport audio to the controller first), and in part to avoid having cables from two locations going to the capture card. One thing you should definitely not do is pass audio output through the PC, i.e. have the PC play back the audio getting captured through speakers/whatever. Simply because it will almost certainly introduce some delay on the audio.
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Mar 15, 2016 22:32
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Quite some delay: the Elgato display is several seconds behind live (because it's encoding to H.264 and then sending that over USB, and it's not intended for streaming so it uses an encoding profile that requires that delay). My method for solving this when I ran into the problem was using the 3.5mm jack it turned out my TV had and using HDMI audio to the Elgato, but - not sure that's an option here.
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Mar 15, 2016 22:42
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See, I'd tried splitter from controller -> elgato & headset almost first-thing because it seemed like the simplest solution, but there was horrible staticy humming going on in the background. It turns out that it was happening because I had the controller plugged into my PC to charge, and the noise went away completely upon unplugging the thing. I felt like a real dumbass.  Either way, I think it's working now and I'm taking a break but I'll post here to let you guys know if I need more help. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Mar 15, 2016 22:45
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So I've been recording on my friend's PS3 with a Hauppauge HD PVR2, and I've been having issues with taking apart the TS files to actually perform video/audio editing on them using AVISynth. The problem is, that unless I push them out and post them unedited with Hauppauge's own software as MP4s, there's some degree of audio desync. (I should note that the original TS files viewable on Hauppauge are not desynced.) The first thing which kinda worked was to use MeGUI's HD Streams Extractor to dump out an MKV for the video and an MP2 for the audio. But those were slightly desynced, and VirtualDub would crash when I tried opening the MKV with FFVideoSource. (I should note that the recordings I've taken thus far are three and two hours long, respectively.) The second thing which kinda worked was to instead use MeGUI's File Indexer to make index files for FFVideoSource (and FFAudioSource) to use. (Edit: I was using the FFMSIndex setting for File Indexer.) These had no problems when being targets for VirtualDub, but the audio is desynced from the video (not consistently from file to file), and not in a simple manner that would easily entail either performing a single snip or tempo change (in Audacity). The third thing which kinda worked was to export the TS files as MP4 and then perhaps try to conjure something from them. But again, whatever audio files I could grab with indexing are still desynced in some way so long as they're not directly in the MP4. Thus as part of testing I found that loading the same MP4 in both FFVideoSource and FFAudioSource would cause a desync, and attempting FFmpegSource2 would simply crash VirtualDub. What alternate methods might I have to consistently get around desync? As noted above, the TS files and converted MP4 files were fine, but everything else that didn't crash had nontrivial desync. Edit: Something weird I found was that attempt 2 would get me a 495300 master file, but attempt 3 based on the same original TS would get me 495266 frames instead. NGDBSS fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Mar 16, 2016 |
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Mar 16, 2016 10:09
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Have you tried the fpsnum and fpsden parameters of FFVideoSource()? https://github.com/FFMS/ffms2/blob/master/doc/ffms2-avisynth.md#ffvideosource
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Mar 16, 2016 12:39
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You mean to tweak the FPS? That's not fixed the desync on its own, which is a major part of the issue. I tried stripping out the audio and tweaking the length (via a tempo change in Audacity) to fit, but the desync is persistent. I'm currently testing things to see if maybe I was incorrect and it's just a simple shift, so fingers crossed. (It helps that the Souls games have very distinct audio/video cues when the player or a boss dies.) Edit: Yeah, the issue is complex - things are being desynced as a result of both relative position and relative speed. NGDBSS fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Mar 16, 2016 |
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Mar 16, 2016 13:10
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NGDBSS posted:You mean to tweak the FPS? That's not fixed the desync on its own, which is a major part of the issue. The idea of fpsnum+fpsden isn't so much to change the framerate, as it is to convert variable framerate video to constant framerate. You almost always want to work in constant framerate, unless you have a deep understanding of VFR.
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Mar 16, 2016 14:32
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Ah, I see. Yeah, anything I tested involving the File Indexer made some wrapper AVS files that did this as a matter of course, and as noted above the problem wasn't fixed. I should note, though, that this happened before merging video and audio segments. Are you suggesting that I try converting the framerate to a constant value after dubbing it with an audio track?
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Mar 16, 2016 14:40
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