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Cooked Auto posted:So I'm starting to find myself in need of some new brushes, primarily for edge highlighting as the small brushes I have can't seem to keep their tip for long enough. I was thinking of Ichiban brushes from Games & Gears but 35 pound price tag is kind of hefty. But what other alternatives are there? Aside from just getting GW brushes or something. I have a very battered Series 7 that is on its last legs but it has lasted about 8 years of mistreatment, I was about to recommend the cheaper sable's I bought a couple of weeks ago and have been using recently but after looking them up online I've discovered they're actually watercolour ones  If you can get a decent Series 7 though they last for years, and if I actually looked after mine and cleaned it at least once as well as not have kept it in a box of paints tip down for 3 years it'd probably still be going strong.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:06
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richyp posted:I have a very battered Series 7 that is on its last legs but it has lasted about 8 years of mistreatment, I was about to recommend the cheaper sable's I bought a couple of weeks ago and have been using recently but after looking them up online I've discovered they're actually watercolour ones That's not weird - most brushes we use are technically watercolor brushes. There aren't really "acrylic paint" brushes, everything tends to be classified as watercolor or oil, I assume just because they're concerned about the medium, not the exact sort of paint.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:10
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Cooked Auto posted:So I'm starting to find myself in need of some new brushes, primarily for edge highlighting as the small brushes I have can't seem to keep their tip for long enough. I was thinking of Ichiban brushes from Games & Gears but 35 pound price tag is kind of hefty. But what other alternatives are there? Aside from just getting GW brushes or something. For what it's worth I really like my Ichiban brushes, but when they're capped they're usually too small for most brush holders i've used.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:11
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JoshTheStampede posted:That's not weird - most brushes we use are technically watercolor brushes. There aren't really "acrylic paint" brushes, everything tends to be classified as watercolor or oil, I assume just because they're concerned about the medium, not the exact sort of paint. Yeah they work fine, the only noticeable difference is the bristles seem firmer than my trusty old S7 which is still super soft if sporting 1 or 5 stray hairs. I'm guessing its a Kolinsky vs Non-kolinsky sable thing. https://www.cassart.co.uk/painting/brushes_2/sable_1/daler_rowney_aquafine_sable_round.htm I'm using a size 3 and a size 1 round.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:25
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richyp posted:Yeah they work fine, the only noticeable difference is the bristles seem firmer than my trusty old S7 which is still super soft if sporting 1 or 5 stray hairs. I'm guessing its a Kolinsky vs Non-kolinsky sable thing. Only the finest weasel butts may touch my miniatures, sir.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:31
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JoshTheStampede posted:Only the finest male weasel butts may touch my miniatures, sir.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:35
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I'm doing this cork stand poo poo for the first time, where you pin a foot and drive the excess into a cork to make a little base for you to hold as you paint the figure, and they keep falling the gently caress out. Is there some special trick to this to actually hold the figure relatively tightly in the cork?
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Mar 6, 2016 20:37
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signalnoise posted:I'm doing this cork stand poo poo for the first time, where you pin a foot and drive the excess into a cork to make a little base for you to hold as you paint the figure, and they keep falling the gently caress out. Is there some special trick to this to actually hold the figure relatively tightly in the cork? Wrap the cork in tape or something to keep it from splitting/spreading. Or be lazy like me and buy one of these: http://bespokebases.com/figure-holders-21-c.asp
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Mar 6, 2016 20:39
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JoshTheStampede posted:Wrap the cork in tape or something to keep it from splitting/spreading. Or be lazy like me and buy one of these: http://bespokebases.com/figure-holders-21-c.asp Man, I would love to do that but I'm painting ten things at a time. On that note, so what I'm gonna try to paint right now is wave 1 mantic orc grunts for warpath. I'm loving mystified at why they decided to have this much detail in this lovely a material. And I'm not totally satisfied with how well I cut them off their integrated base. Also because of how you assemble them, every single one of them is different. Here's what I'm talking about :  lovely picture but you get the idea. These guys are covered in little relief details, and I am having major difficulties thinking how I'm going to apply colors here without making it look too busy. Example of them painted well:  I don't loving know, I just want them table-ready.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:44
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Ideally use two pins. If thats too much hassle make sure you have at least 20mm of wire going into the cork and bend it somewhat so it wedges itself i to the cork and doesnt spin and slip as easily.
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Mar 6, 2016 20:53
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JoshTheStampede posted:Wrap the cork in tape or something to keep it from splitting/spreading. Or be lazy like me and buy one of these: http://bespokebases.com/figure-holders-21-c.asp  Sup 
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Mar 6, 2016 21:21
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 My first blood angel.  C&C please.
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Mar 6, 2016 21:32
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Frobbe posted:I've recently bought Winsor & Newton Series 7 Short size 1 and 2, they're pretty drat nice and aren't that expensive per brush. I will be buying a size 3 and size 0 sometime in the future though. the short means the hairs aren't so long, making it easier to control when painting miniatures and such. Very much depends on how many miniatures you're painting in a sitting, I find.  From left to right is the Raphael 8404, the Scharff 3000, Citadel Artificer, and the W&N Series 7 My personal favourite now is the Scharff, the hair bounce back is beautiful, its tip is lovely and because it can hold more paint I can get more mans done. It's modelled after the Raphael, before their QC went to hell. Edit: I should say, their size 0 is for me, the best paint brush I've ever used for painting, I've got 4 spares because I know one day, they'll disappear or change them somehow. Yeast fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Mar 6, 2016 |
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Mar 6, 2016 22:02
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signalnoise posted:For what it's worth I really like my Ichiban brushes, but when they're capped they're usually too small for most brush holders i've used. Yeah one of the guys running the FLGS in town recommended them and they've been in and out of stock on their website whenever I've checked so I am tempted. Biggest issue with the Series 7 is probably pricing as well since the GBP has never been that nice to the Swedish Krona in exchange rates. Also no real package deals it seems on their site. Otherwise all I find is either Citadel, Army Painter, da Vinci or Kolinsky brushes in most online stores. Which I guess is a given.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:35
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Cooked Auto posted:Yeah one of the guys running the FLGS in town recommended them and they've been in and out of stock on their website whenever I've checked so I am tempted. If I was to try to sell you on them, I'd say the defining feature of the brush as far as how it actually performs is that they have rather large bellies so they hold a lot of paint, making them harder to clean but also harder to get paint in the actual ferrule.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:49
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DJ Dizzy posted:
I'm on a phone, but: would look nice if you finished detailing it. 1) The soft joints are unpainted/red. Right now from a distance (or my phone) he looks like a red blob. Paint the joints in a darker color and the rest of the model will pop more. 2) Did you wash it with carroburg crimson? Feels like some of the spots are barely washed and could do with another pass to make darker shadows. Like around the feet, above the knee pads, the glove fingers, etc. The gold also looks like a single layer? Another place where a wash would make it pop more. 3) There's lots of spots where you could do something other than red. The belt plate, the head crown, the boots. I spy a bit of green in the eye lens, but you could really make it stronger. Basically it looks good, but seems to be missing just a few extra steps to resllynfeel finished 
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Mar 6, 2016 23:04
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DJ Dizzy posted:
Colours are pretty good, can't see any obvious brush marks or any blemishes like that. Only real criticism I have is his right pauldron is kinda wonky like that, though I suspect that's more the model's fault.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:06
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 I'm working on an AdMech knight from house Taranis. I decided to start with the legs, since I figured it was a constrained area I could learn my colors on and figure out my formula for the main body. What do you think of these reds? Should they be brighter? I haven't done any edges yet. The entire model was based in metal, then washed with nuln oil. Then the red is Khorne Red as a base, 2 coats of Wazdraka red, a little bit of Evil Sunz Scarlet, then another layer of Wazdraka. What should I do with the metals? For the bright metals, I added a layer of the metal below runefang, then some edges with runefang. But this seemed a little too bright so I touched it up with a bit more nuln oil.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:16
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DJ Dizzy posted:
That red is really nice. As others have already suggested it's probably too good compared to everything else, one suggestion I have would be to paint the eyes(?)/visor part in a very bright contrasting colour such as green to draw your attention to the head. You could also maybe go one tone brighter with a bit more yellow to the mix and do a few tiny inner highlights on the existing edge highlights to give him a bit more sheen. Maybe the beige/sand highlights are a bit too much of a contrast jump from their base but they could easily be toned down with a thin glaze of a mid tone of Sepia, then reapplied in smaller amounts, like you did with the orange over the red. Regardless it's a really nice Spaceman.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:18
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Thanks mans  The reason the gold is abit lovely is that I couldnt find my retributor, so I just basecoated that. I'm thinking of giving the armor panels a coat of gloss, to make it stand out more. Thoughts? As for the soft spots, yeah, it was late and I was itching to get home to play some vidya games with a friend of mine.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:52
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signalnoise posted:I don't loving know, I just want them table-ready. Here's some of my orcs, I used a desert yellow and oak brown theme on everything nonmetal or non-skin.  
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Mar 7, 2016 02:25
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might be the lighting but whats going on with those shields? could maybe use a bit of shading.
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Mar 7, 2016 03:11
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Re: Brush Chat I continue to like my Escoda Kolinsky Tajmirs. Their bristles are longer than most, so they can hold more paint and are nice for edge highlights. Cheaper than some others too. A Goon here once said he didn't like them, but I'm still a fan of mine. I use a 1, 0, and 00.DeadGame posted:
The trick with silver is to either give it an undertone, to dirty it up so that the contrast is higher, or to treat it like white (IE- start with a dark color and shade up).     Pure silver is hard to paint because its pretty flat when hit by light so it requires some tricks.
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Mar 7, 2016 03:34
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Anyone know of a company that makes 75mm-ish fantasy busts or figures? I wanna work on something large for a change and hopefully practice some new techniques. Ideally, looking for pin up or sexy ladies. I can almost go pvc anime figure-esque. I'm just not sure how to google those things.
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Mar 7, 2016 03:45
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Holy poo poo. this is the best IW I have ever seen. 
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Mar 7, 2016 03:49
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Alokgen posted:Anyone know of a company that makes 75mm-ish fantasy busts or figures? I wanna work on something large for a change and hopefully practice some new techniques. Ideally, looking for pin up or sexy ladies. I can almost go pvc anime figure-esque. I'm just not sure how to google those things. Scale75, Pegaso, Andrea are probably the big three. There's a lot of smaller companies that make like, one or two models. Black Crow, Midnight Miniatures, a few others. Kabuki is known for its sexy lady models, I assume they have some 75mm stuff, I know they have 54mm. Hangar18 makes specifically pinup models in old airplane nose-art style but they are 54mm. E: FER Miniatures also, and they have a bunch of busts too. Nocturna Models as well, and Nutsplanet. JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Mar 7, 2016 |
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Mar 7, 2016 03:52
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BULBASAUR posted:Pure silver is hard to paint because its pretty flat when hit by light so it requires some tricks. I've spent months trying to come up with a paint scheme for my CoC army. All of the default silver and brass schemes I've seen looked flat, just like you've described, so I wanted to do something different. These pictures might have changed my mind. Do you have advice on selecting undertones?
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Mar 7, 2016 07:11
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Cooked Auto posted:So I'm starting to find myself in need of some new brushes, primarily for edge highlighting as the small brushes I have can't seem to keep their tip for long enough. I was thinking of Ichiban brushes from Games & Gears but 35 pound price tag is kind of hefty. But what other alternatives are there? Aside from just getting GW brushes or something. I've got a set of G&G brushes from Adepticon last year - the "0" brush had tip hook right out of the gate. I like the concept of some good travel brushes, but I can't recommend them myself. Some more WIP on the Wrath of Kings Hadross: The jellies are just about done - basing is next.  Kaxes - still very much WIP  Deepmen - need base work, and a bit of fine tuning.  Deep Caller - I'm really happy with his robes. The blending is ok in the photo, but looks better in person. 
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Mar 7, 2016 15:09
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A mixture of VMC and Scale 75 paints for the next Nomads  Interestingly the Scale 75 Red, Antares Red is barely distinguishable from the rest of my red dudes who were painted in VMC Red. Here's an Infinity shelf shot of the stuff I painted in the last few weeks and he doesn't really stand out against his fellow Nomad buddies:  Excuse the blurry left half I had to hold the camera still on the slowest shutter speed in order for the models to be visible. Now to wait for the Moderators of Bakunin box and some more bases to arrive for some more red to paint.
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Mar 7, 2016 16:09
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So it turns out the G&G brushes are, aside from grabbing generic Kolinsky brushes, my only other option because it turns out that Winson & Newton doesn't ship to Scandinavia. They apparently ship to everywhere else in the world though. Except Australia and New Zealand. And Scandinavia. How the gently caress does that even work? 
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Mar 7, 2016 16:21
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darnon posted:Sounds like Sorastro That's gotta be it. Thanks!
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Mar 7, 2016 16:22
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Cooked Auto posted:So it turns out the G&G brushes are, aside from grabbing generic Kolinsky brushes, my only other option because it turns out that Winson & Newton doesn't ship to Scandinavia. Embargoes, for some reason or another. Have you tried Amazon, or perhaps a Euro-goon who might be able to get them for you and ship them over? Personally, I'd try that before purchasing a G&G brush.
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Mar 7, 2016 16:43
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Cooked Auto posted:So it turns out the G&G brushes are, aside from grabbing generic Kolinsky brushes, my only other option because it turns out that Winson & Newton doesn't ship to Scandinavia. https://www.faraos.dk Sells them, theyll probably ship to you. It is where i bought mine anyway Edit: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Colour-Miniature/dp/B000OL1UUY/ just buy them here Frobbe fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Mar 7, 2016 |
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Mar 7, 2016 17:07
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Frobbe posted:https://www.faraos.dk Sells them, theyll probably ship to you. It is where i bought mine anyway Oh nice. Much appreciated. berzerkmonkey posted:Embargoes, for some reason or another. Have you tried Amazon, or perhaps a Euro-goon who might be able to get them for you and ship them over? Personally, I'd try that before purchasing a G&G brush. Amazon is really really shakey I know from experience. They also don't tell you which retailers ship outside their country until the last step. Which is incredibly frustrating. But yeah, I had a friend in the UK who offered to ship them to me if I wanted to so there is that option as well.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:10
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I'm really gonna have to get some decent brushes at some point, not been impressed with the army painter ones at all really, even my GW are better. Also from the 40k thread: GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Something a bit different to my Ultras today, painting up some jungle-themed Tau. Here's the first Pathfinder, a test model of sorts for the colour scheme and basing and all that.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:46
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Cooked Auto posted:So it turns out the G&G brushes are, aside from grabbing generic Kolinsky brushes, my only other option because it turns out that Winson & Newton doesn't ship to Scandinavia. Rosemary and Co. should ship to Scandinavia. Seriess 33 size 0 is what I use for 99% of my painting.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:50
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Rosemary and Co. should ship to Scandinavia. Seriess 33 size 0 is what I use for 99% of my painting. Seconding this, Rosemary & Co brushes are awesome for the price and ship pretty quickly everywhere in Europe.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:52
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Rosemary and Co. should ship to Scandinavia. Seriess 33 size 0 is what I use for 99% of my painting. Mango Polo posted:Seconding this, Rosemary & Co brushes are awesome for the price and ship pretty quickly everywhere in Europe. Thanks for the recommendation just ordered a couple to try out even if the posts weren't for me. They're so low priced I had to add a pen to my order for the minimum order amount of a whopping £10 so they could send it down the road
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Mar 7, 2016 18:52
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Cooked Auto posted:So it turns out the G&G brushes are, aside from grabbing generic Kolinsky brushes, my only other option because it turns out that Winson & Newton doesn't ship to Scandinavia. Here ya go buddy.
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Mar 7, 2016 18:54
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FoulWeatherFriend posted:Here ya go buddy. Huh, neat. But ow that pricing per brush. In that case I'd have to settle for just a 0 or 1 size brush and then order some Rosemary & Co brushes as well on the side.
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Mar 7, 2016 19:05
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