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Rukus posted:A friend of mine's PVR eSata bit the dust recently, too. I just opened it up and replaced the drive with another I had and it worked fine (it was a Seagate and it took a WD drive all the same). See if you can't open it up and replace the drive with a desktop model for cheap. Just make sure that your RPMs match, as a higher RPM drive would pull more power than the wall-wart could provide. Depending on how the Fantom died you might even be able to save the recordings if the drive is still working.
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Feb 26, 2016 00:34
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They're just glorified enclosures with an included drive, so more than likely the HDD is what's dead and not the enclosure's connector.
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Feb 26, 2016 00:36
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Rukus posted:They're just glorified enclosures with an included drive, so more than likely the HDD is what's dead and not the enclosure's connector. Yes, makes sense. In that case the last chance for easy recovery is a replacement PCB if the drive doesn't have a mechanical fault.
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Feb 26, 2016 21:30
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So I'm setting up a network at my new apartment. I'm using Australia's National Broadband Network which means that the connector box I'll be plugging my router into is far from my study, and which means that I won't be able to use a physical connection between my computer and my router any more. So I'm looking at wifi-enabling my desktop. I'm getting set up with a 25/5 Mbps connection trhgou my plan, and the included router is a TG-1 broadband router. I know that my options are pretty much a PCI card or a USB aerial. At the speeds that the connection that I'll have (LOL @ what passes for high-speed in Australia) and my router will allow, is there any real benefit in getting a PCI card, or will the USB wifi adapter do? e: IO should mention there's no line of sight between there the router will be and the study... Breetai fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 09:19
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Would a pair of homeplug adaptors do the job?
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Mar 2, 2016 09:33
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If the router is physically in your apartment, you can run a cable. Ethernet can do 100 meter runs no problem. Just staple the cable to the ceiling or somewhere similarly inconspicuous.
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Mar 2, 2016 09:36
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DeaconBlues posted:Would a pair of homeplug adaptors do the job? Now that's something I've never seen before. Hmm. The building is fairly old and I'm not sure as to the quality of the wiring - would that have an effect?
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Mar 2, 2016 09:37
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dis astranagant posted:If the router is physically in your apartment, you can run a cable. Ethernet can do 100 meter runs no problem. Just staple the cable to the ceiling or somewhere similarly inconspicuous. Hmm. Not sure. My unit layout is this: red box in the living area is the NBN box, red box in the study is where my desk will go. Living room is about 3 meters vertically and picture is roughly to scale. Trouble is that stapling anything to the ceiling will likely breach the terms of my lease - I suppose if worse comes to worst I can tape it in a line from the box, across the bedroom door with a rug over it, and around the back end of the study.  Given the layout/lack of line of sight, would wifi even be an option? I also have an old wall-socket mounted network extender, by the by.
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Mar 2, 2016 10:04
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Breetai posted:Now that's something I've never seen before. Hmm. The building is fairly old and I'm not sure as to the quality of the wiring - would that have an effect? The quality of the wiring will have an effect. In my last place the whole house was a bit old and run down and I got a slower speed than I do now, in a more well maintained house. I was still getting at least 4MB/s in the old place when transferring files from downstairs to upstairs, IIRC. It's worth a shot I'd say.
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Mar 2, 2016 13:09
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DeaconBlues posted:The quality of the wiring will have an effect. In my last place the whole house was a bit old and run down and I got a slower speed than I do now, in a more well maintained house. I was still getting at least 4MB/s in the old place when transferring files from downstairs to upstairs, IIRC. Hmm. I might mcgyver a diagnostic by running my mobile off of wifi and tethering it to my computer via USB once I move in to check the difference in signal strength from the front room to the study, and busk it from there. Thanks for the advice, all!
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Mar 2, 2016 13:16
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Breetai posted:Now that's something I've never seen before. Hmm. The building is fairly old and I'm not sure as to the quality of the wiring - would that have an effect? My house is old with OG wiring. well as being lath-n-plaster, so it's like a worst-case scenario for non-wired network speed. Anything that's not-line-of-sight has terrible and unreliable throughput, no matter whether it's G, N, or AC. Powerline adapters work reliably even with the old wiring, but the speed ends up much lower than the rating. The 300Mb/sec setup I have will run -stably- at about 20Mb/sec, which is enough for my HTPC to to pull compressed files from my NAS and give me HD video-watching ability that doesn't flake out.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:56
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Homeplug is more reliable than wifi IME. I have no idea if Australian homes are wired with coaxial cable for TV. If your place is, you could look into Moca adapters that transmit ethernet over coax cable. As for internet vs USB wifi, in my experience the USB ones seem to overheat and slow down if you hammer on them (downloading a Steam game for example) while the PCI(e) ones keep on trucking. The USB ones allow more freedom in antenna location (via USB extension cable).
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Mar 2, 2016 16:17
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On a related note, if you only have 1 socket for TV, PC and powerline adaptor am I right in thinking that it's better for throughput to use a cheap 4-way extension rather than a one that claims to have anti-surge and features an LED? I use the cheap ones under the assumption that they are straight connections clamped together inside and the lack of LED (or other features) ensures that there is nothing to introduce noise to the signal path. Does this sound feasible? I'm in UK, so talking primarily about UK 3-pin power extensions, but I guess US/NZ have the same items.
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Mar 3, 2016 00:40
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My brother's Dell XPS 15 9550 (Core i7-6700, GTX960M) seems to get really hot when he plays Street Fighter V. The CPU temp managed to get all the way up to 90C+ and I've seen the CPU throttle down to 800MHz a few times, causing SFV to run really slow (SFV does that thing if the machine isn't powerful enough, it runs the game in like slow motion instead of it stuttering or running jerky). I've remedied the issue temporarily by telling him to point a fan at his laptop, and it worked as he was able to play fairly long sessions doing that, but both he and I agreed that's a pretty ghetto solution lol. Is it normal for the i7-6700 to get that hot when gaming? Should he be concerned? It idles at roughly 40C and performance is solid for doing regular PC tasks. It's a fairly new model, so I haven't really found any evidence showing that the laptop runs overly hot when gaming. He also has two monitors connected to it while he has it hooked up to play games; one connected via the HDMI port and another via the USB-C Thunderbolt 3 port (using a USB-C to HDMI dongle). Not sure if that makes a difference or not. teagone fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 12:05
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DeaconBlues posted:On a related note, if you only have 1 socket for TV, PC and powerline adaptor am I right in thinking that it's better for throughput to use a cheap 4-way extension rather than a one that claims to have anti-surge and features an LED? It doesn't matter what you use as long as the powerline adapter is connected directly to the wall, and whatever you need to power goes through the passthru port on the powerline adapter. Putting anything between the powerline adapter and the wall, even an extension cord, can degrade the signal.
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Mar 3, 2016 22:10
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teagone posted:My brother's Dell XPS 15 9550 (Core i7-6700, GTX960M) seems to get really hot when he plays Street Fighter V. The CPU temp managed to get all the way up to 90C+ is hyperthreading on?
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Mar 3, 2016 22:35
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teagone posted:My brother's Dell XPS 15 9550 (Core i7-6700, GTX960M) seems to get really hot when he plays Street Fighter V. The CPU temp managed to get all the way up to 90C+ and I've seen the CPU throttle down to 800MHz a few times, causing SFV to run really slow (SFV does that thing if the machine isn't powerful enough, it runs the game in like slow motion instead of it stuttering or running jerky). I've remedied the issue temporarily by telling him to point a fan at his laptop, and it worked as he was able to play fairly long sessions doing that, but both he and I agreed that's a pretty ghetto solution lol.
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Mar 3, 2016 22:56
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teagone posted:My brother's Dell (Core i7-6700, GTX960M) seems to get really hot when he plays Street Fighter V. The CPU temp managed to get all the way up to 90C+ and I've seen the CPU throttle down to 800MHz a few times, causing SFV to run really slow (SFV does that thing if the machine isn't powerful enough, it runs the game in like slow motion instead of it stuttering or running jerky). I've remedied the issue temporarily by telling him to point a fan at his laptop, and it worked as he was able to play fairly long sessions doing that, but both he and I agreed that's a pretty ghetto solution lol. Laptops generally have poo poo cooling solutions (there's only so much you can do when you're limited by a 1" or slimmer chassis) so he's going to have to compromise somewhere. He might try a cooling pad (not suggesting that model in particular, just using it as an example) or sometimes just elevating the back of the laptop so there's more than an eighth of an inch or less between the fan inlet and the desk can make a big difference. He might also want to back the graphics settings off until the system stops overheating.
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Mar 3, 2016 22:57
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schizopol posted:is hyperthreading on? I would assume so. My brother is not one to tinker with the settings at all, so I'd wager that HT is on by default. Alereon posted:Throttling under load is expected for the Dell XPS 15 9550, it's rare to find a gaming laptop that can actually dissipate the heat generated during gaming. You'll likely be able to significantly improve things by getting a cooling stand so that the intake fans on the underside of the laptop have more room to suck air through. Do make sure the latest BIOS is installed and see if there are any fan control options anywhere. Thanks for that link. Not sure why I couldn't find that article haha. Next time he comes over or if I stop by his place, I'll be sure to poke around the BIOS. What specific options should I be looking for in there regarding fan control? Geoj posted:Laptops generally have poo poo cooling solutions (there's only so much you can do when you're limited by a 1" or slimmer chassis) so he's going to have to compromise somewhere. He might try a cooling pad (not suggesting that model in particular, just using it as an example) or sometimes just elevating the back of the laptop so there's more than an eighth of an inch or less between the fan inlet and the desk can make a big difference. That cooling pad looks decent. Any other recommendations? I figure the $15 one that came up on Amazon on a quick search is likely poo poo. Either way, I've just texted him that he should get a cooling pad/stand, and I'll let him know which one. Thanks for the help! 
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Mar 4, 2016 04:09
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I just picked up a Dell Chromebox and I can't seem to find any specs on the wired ethernet controller. Not on any of the dell manuals or 3rd party reviews. Also I couldn't find the chipset from the main board itself (must be a hard to see SoC) and not through ChromeOS either(no details given for eth0). If it means anything its Haswell Celeron 2955U.
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Mar 4, 2016 21:52
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Shaocaholica posted:I just picked up a Dell Chromebox and I can't seem to find any specs on the wired ethernet controller. Not on any of the dell manuals or 3rd party reviews. Also I couldn't find the chipset from the main board itself (must be a hard to see SoC) and not through ChromeOS either(no details given for eth0).
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Mar 4, 2016 22:08
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Alereon posted:I think it's a Realtek RTL8168. Thanks.....how did you find it???
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Mar 4, 2016 23:06
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Shaocaholica posted:Thanks.....how did you find it???
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Mar 4, 2016 23:09
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What's a solid fast external hard drive? Not worried about price. Don't want anything power hungry or that stays on 24/7. Going to be hooked up to my surface pro dock. I don't really do  so I suppose 2 or maybe 3 tb is about all I need. Something semi-portable. Slimmer the better
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Mar 5, 2016 22:26
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If you want something that isn't likely to get damaged, Samsung's Portable SSDs. You can get a 1tb for $300 out a 2tb for $900. At that price though, you're better off buying three 1tb.
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Mar 5, 2016 23:12
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Any recommendations for a color laser printer? For an office with a couple of commercial b+w lasers, so it won't get a ton of use except for doing color pages. Page per minute isn't as important as overall nice quality and reliability, I suppose. Edge-to-edge printing would be really nice, but not top priority.
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Mar 5, 2016 23:35
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SlayVus posted:If you want something that isn't likely to get damaged, Samsung's Portable SSDs. You can get a 1tb for $300 out a 2tb for $900. At that price though, you're better off buying three 1tb. Are they efficient enough these days to be dedicated backup/storage? SSD speeds do sound nice, price be damned
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Mar 5, 2016 23:44
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According to the overclocking thread, I shouldn't let my 2500k go over 72 degrees under Prime95 testing. I bumped up my overclock from 4.2ghz to 4.8ghz (which seems stable). The only issue is I'm getting about 78 degrees max temp under heavy load. The thing is that I'm overclocking the poo poo out of it simply because it doesn't matter to me if my CPU doesn't last another year: I plan on upgrading my CPU around June. Do you think my CPU can last until June with those temps?
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Mar 6, 2016 22:03
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If you think you're in danger of cooking it by June I'd say turn the sucker down and save it because it could be useful in a home server or as a donation to someone who needs a decent machine for general use. As for the temps I have no idea.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:28
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Swartz posted:According to the overclocking thread, I shouldn't let my 2500k go over 72 degrees under Prime95 testing.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:56
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Swartz posted:According to the overclocking thread, I shouldn't let my 2500k go over 72 degrees under Prime95 testing. If you're only seeing that temperature while running a Prime95 (or similar) stress test I wouldn't worry too much because most applications - even high end games - you use on a regular basis aren't going to peg the CPU across all cores for extended periods.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:08
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Yeah it was in Prime95. I'm not going to worry then.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:50
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Swartz posted:Yeah it was in Prime95. I'm not going to worry then.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:56
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I want a few more USB ports. Should I just buy a USB 3.0 hub or a PCI card? Pros/cons to either? Recommendations?
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Mar 7, 2016 01:18
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slidebite posted:I want a few more USB ports. Should I just buy a USB 3.0 hub or a PCI card? Pros/cons to either? Recommendations? Buying a USB 3.0 PCI Express card is probably a better idea if you have room rather than slapping another hub on your existing 3.0 ports. Less liklihood of getting something that is flaky that way.
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Mar 7, 2016 01:26
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Geoj posted:If you're only seeing that temperature while running a Prime95 (or similar) stress test I wouldn't worry too much because most applications - even high end games - you use on a regular basis aren't going to peg the CPU across all cores for extended periods. R6 Siege is the only game that I've seen max out a CPU during a match. It's pretty astounding actually.
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Mar 7, 2016 02:18
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BigFactory posted:Any recommendations for a color laser printer? For an office with a couple of commercial b+w lasers, so it won't get a ton of use except for doing color pages. Page per minute isn't as important as overall nice quality and reliability, I suppose. Edge-to-edge printing would be really nice, but not top priority. Printer Questions Megathread
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Mar 7, 2016 05:12
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fishmech posted:Buying a USB 3.0 PCI Express card is probably a better idea if you have room rather than slapping another hub on your existing 3.0 ports. Less liklihood of getting something that is flaky that way. Any recommendations?
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Mar 7, 2016 06:46
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My T430 stopped powering on, but I'm pretty sure I left it in sleep mode so the battery might have run out. I have a multimeter and want to test the knockoff power brick and see if that went bad before I look at getting a replacement motherboard, especially because replacing a motherboard in a laptop is like stabbing yourself in the dick for an hour. The thing is, the plug looks like this: I only see one pin, so where would I touch to check for voltage?
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Mar 7, 2016 08:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:My T430 stopped powering on, but I'm pretty sure I left it in sleep mode so the battery might have run out. I have a multimeter and want to test the knockoff power brick and see if that went bad before I look at getting a replacement motherboard, especially because replacing a motherboard in a laptop is like stabbing yourself in the dick for an hour. The thing is, the plug looks like this: The inside and outside of the barrel plug aren't connected to each other. Inside should be 20V DC, outside should be ground. The center pin has a specified resistance to ground, that the system uses to tell the power output of the adapter.
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Mar 7, 2016 09:17
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