|
DJ Dizzy posted:Holy poo poo. this is the best IW I have ever seen. That was my reaction when I first saw it too. He didn't really paint many models, but it's one of my all time favorite paint jobs. KPC_Mammon posted:I've spent months trying to come up with a paint scheme for my CoC army. All of the default silver and brass schemes I've seen looked flat, just like you've described, so I wanted to do something different. For sure. This post kinda grew into a mini tutorial so sorry for the all the  One thing I've learned as I paint more is that an undertone is a very important part of your palette. It's what, at least in my mind, makes a paint job have depth of color and character. In general, you should pick one for your basecoat, but you could have several.Generally speaking an undertone should be complimentary to not just your base color, but to all the colors on your model. Think about the 'mood' or feeling you want your model to have and then associate it with a color. Green gives an organic or strange sickly feeling. Purple is often associated with regal or high tech feelings. Blue is commonly used to make you think 'alien', technology, or cold. Red is popular as evil, but is also anxiety and power. Warm brown feels grounded and realistic. An orange is inviting and lively. Different colors can mean different things to you, but by and large people associate colors with feelings. I learned about this when I worked in games and we had to decide on different game covers. Color choice is a very big part of it because the colors give instant feelings about the product. Same goes with your model. So look at your models, your army theme or fluff, and then decide what you want them to 'feel like'. Choose warm or cool and then an undertone color that fits the feeling and your overal color palette. Most models I see don't have very apparent undertones. This is fine, because you don't need one to have a nice model and all colors have undertones. Some are just very close to the mass tone (the color you see up front). Lately though I see people use them to give life to mono color armies, albiet others use them in more complex themes: One of my faves from FW. Black with violet undertones:  One from a goon in this thread. Blue with all sorts of stuff going on:  Love this. The grey has a cold blue, which compliments the red base and yellow + orange undertone:  Just look at this green and the earthy sepia color that gives it such depth:  Blue and black. Another fave of mine:  So how do you achieve this? There are many ways and not all require you to undercoat your basecoat in a certain color. You can mix a color into your basecoat. You could mix a color into ALL your paints. You could undercoat in the color and than basecoat semi transparent over the top. Military modelers use filters (basically oil washes), but you can just as easily use a wash or glaze. The only rule is that if it's applied first, the subsequent layers need to be more transparent than usual. If you go over the top with it then it needs to be thinned more than usual and prevented from pooling (use flow aid or mix in some gloss varnish). How do you pick your palette? Well, I just copy other people because I'm lazy and then make it into my own thing. I loved the Iron Warrior that DJ Dizzy liked so I analyzed his colors:   I also always liked this guy's red scorpions:   Which I combined and revised so it worked better together:  Which I then painted on a test model and revised a few times. This is my second model, no color theory at all:   Now I paint like this after starting to pay attention to my color choice (it was not the only thing I got better at, but it helped with my color selection greatly):  You don't need to go full hog like I did, but I wanted to show you how it all goes together. For CoC in particular here are some examples I found online: Silver with a sepia undertone:  Silver with a purple undertone (look at the top right shoulder):  Hope this helps! Stick with it, it pays off! BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 8, 2016 |
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 00:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 19:55 |
|
|
Those Convergence make me want to try and finish mine! I was also daunted by the silver, and how flat mine look. 
dexefiend fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Mar 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 01:17
|
|
|
Obviously sloppy and missing detail, but how's this for a basic color scheme?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 03:28
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Obviously sloppy and missing detail, but how's this for a basic color scheme? Hit that with a brown wash all over and you'd have a tabletop-ready model in no time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 03:41
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Obviously sloppy and missing detail, but how's this for a basic color scheme? The blue seems a little intense to me. I'd add some more grey to it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 03:46
|
|
|
Took both suggestions Table ready 
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 17:32
|
|
|
Ran out of Infinity stuff to paint, spotted a primed Calth marine that I can no longer be bothered to paint up and thought it might be fun to try and do an Iron Warrior about 10 years after my last attempt one. Dropped Kid off at playgroup for 2hrs so it was also a speed test (translate: drybrush the gently caress over black primer with a few coats of boltgun, wash and highlight). Here's the last Iron Warrior circa 2005-2006  Here's the new one, I ran out of time as I need to get my paints out of sight so I didn't have time to tidy up the wonky black line on his right shoulder or finish the hazard stripe highlights.  Went a bit heavy on one of the layers as it's almost completely covered the purple wash. Turns out that most the metals were completely dried out too as I haven't touched them in years.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 12:17
|
|
|
Please help settle a debate between me and my idiot brother: what's the minimum ambient temperature you should spray prime?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 20:38
|
|
|
It depends on the primer, but I shoot for at least 50° F.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 20:41
|
|
|
I find keeping the spray cans indoors when not in use and bringing the primed models indoors before the primer completely dries helps though it could just be luck. For white primer don't forget to sacrifice a goat, check the alignment of the moon and whether it's the first or third Wednesday of the month before even checking the temperature. Seriously why is my primer colour choice a loving pain to use, have to resort to grey in the winter.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 20:54
|
|
|
For me, it's always been about the humidity more than the temperature. If it's above freezing I'm not out there long enough for it to matter, but if it's humid outside the priming will get hosed up. FAKE EDIT: From the OP: krushgroove posted:PRIMING
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 20:57
|
|
|
So basically move to Phoenix
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 20:58
|
|
|
Let's ask Krylon: "Ideally, temperatures should be between 50°F and 90°F, and relative humidity is below 85%. Avoid painting in direct sunlight and hot, humid weather." Or Tamiya: "Not recommended for use below 50°F or during high humidity." Or Testors (GlossCote): "Use at room temperature (70°F) and low humidity (<60%)." Or Rustoleum: "Use when temperature is between 50°F and 90°F and humidity is below 85% to ensure proper drying."
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 21:10
|
|
|
To be fair, I spray anywhere up to 30c (85f)
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 21:28
|
|
|
Don't apply primer when below 21°C? Yeah sure. gently caress you Canadians, Scandinavians, Brits and whoever else. You can only ever paint during the summer! That's hilarious.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 22:06
|
|
|
Does anyone have a link to that guide to making toxic sludge bases with fabric puffy paint? I thought I had it bookmarked, but I guess not. e: vvv that looks pretty cool, I'll probably just do something like that if I can't find the thing I was thinking of. moths fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Mar 10, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 00:27
|
|
|
moths posted:Does anyone have a link to that guide to making toxic sludge bases with fabric puffy paint? I thought I had it bookmarked, but I guess not. I dunno but I did this with still water and ork paint 
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 00:34
|
|
|
I've found that as long as you leave the can inside, you're fine for priming outside. If you let the can get too hot/cold that's when problems happen. I do live in Florida, though, so I've never had the opportunity to prime when it's below 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 00:38
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Hope this helps! Stick with it, it pays off! Thank you for all the information, I'll give it a try this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 01:47
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:I've found that as long as you leave the can inside, you're fine for priming outside. If you let the can get too hot/cold that's when problems happen. This. I've primed white in 20F degree weather with no problems. Humidity is the real problem in my experience.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 02:23
|
|
|
To this day, it still slays me that miniature painting involves considerations that I would make for a two-dimensional painting. Painting shadows on a three-dimensional object. Just....augh
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 04:05
|
|
|
Does anyone know a good tutorial for painting pale, greyish skin? I have trouble enough getting regular skin to look good, but this is just killing me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 11:14
|
|
|
Finished up my Steel Legion armies' Armageddon Ork Hunter unit;   
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 11:24
|
|
|
head58 posted:Please help settle a debate between me and my idiot brother: what's the minimum ambient temperature you should spray prime? I live just south of the arctic circle boundary and I've been spray priming with Army Painter sprays all winter. The coldest was probably -10, and it was totally fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 13:35
|
|
|
Those Ork Hunters are 100% bad rear end!
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 13:55
|
|
|
 Another "Iron Warrior", totally not a rush job Alpha. My Nomad Moderators arrived in the post while I was painting him so I didn't spend as much time tidying up the blue/green because I need to superglue EDIT: And now those Rosemary and Co Brushes have arrived too it seems 
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 16:08
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Finished up my Steel Legion armies' Armageddon Ork Hunter unit; This is so my poo poo, I love these guys. The Ork glyphs on their backs are a great touch, and the use of old metal Catachans is a seriously pro maneuver.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 16:10
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Finished up my Steel Legion armies' Armageddon Ork Hunter unit; These are the best Guard. You should do an army of these guys, screw the Steel Legion 
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 17:45
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Finished up my Steel Legion armies' Armageddon Ork Hunter unit; These are super pro and with a little snow on the bases would look even more legit. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 17:49
|
|
|
Aint no snow in the jungle.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 19:49
|
|
|
Thanks! Their Chimera's going to have a shooter counts as heavy stubber, and a bunch of small Ork touches as well - but that's this weekend's project! SRM posted:This is so my poo poo, I love these guys. The Ork glyphs on their backs are a great touch, and the use of old metal Catachans is a seriously pro maneuver. Yeah, the entire army is metal Steel Legion and if a unit has an old-er school metal equivalent its used - Storm Troopers, Ogryns etc  Fyrbrand posted:These are super pro and with a little snow on the bases would look even more legit. Going for Ash Wastes / Hive City limits - so a bit hot for snow, me thinks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 22:26
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Thanks! Looking forward to seeing that Chimera. If you want metal Ogryns, I have some 4th/5th ed ones lying around.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 22:49
|
|
|
Yeast posted:
Yeah I'm just making a dumb joke- both my 40k armies had almost identical bases, even down to the occasional razorwire. Just mine had patches of snow as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 22:57
|
|
|
I'm possibly going to be actually using some of the Infinity model's I've been making GBS threads the thread up with lately at some point which means I may actually have to varnish them, are there optimal conditions for spray varnishing mini's or is it the same voodoo as white primer? Last time I used spray varnish it wrecked the models and put me off varnish for life (granted this was about 10 years ago and re-spraying did fix them) I'm pretty happy with how they turned out and would probably get a bit miffed if the paint rubbed off them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
richyp posted:I'm possibly going to be actually using some of the Infinity model's I've been making GBS threads the thread up with lately at some point which means I may actually have to varnish them, are there optimal conditions for spray varnishing mini's or is it the same voodoo as white primer? Per my post above, Testors GlossCote says, "Use at room temperature (70°F) and low humidity (<60%)." I would shoot for around that, but that's why you have sacrificial bits of sprue and stuff...
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 23:25
|
|
|
Made a little progress. Airbrushed the blue, the gold and silver are Vallejo's alcohol based metals (and pure awesome) Can't wait to do some glowy effects on each of those gold rings 
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 01:24
|
|
|
Crossposting from the Oath Thread. I have finished up my Demon Prince for my Chaos Space Marine army. It was a lot of work to get the conversions and greenstuff to look just right, but I am really happy with how it worked out. I was very intimidated by both the idea of doing exposed muscle, and modeling flames, as I hadn't done that before, but I am really happy with how it turned out.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 01:34
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Good painting words So, are you familiar with the PP Legion of Everblight beasties? My girlfriend wants me to use pink, which I can do, but working it into a scheme that still works and pops on the table is confusing for a pleb like me. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 01:48
|
|
|
I'm not an expert, but you can definitely do pink and purple with the everblight beasts. The trick will be choosing a color palette that works. Pink should not be your dominant color, but if you split it up between white it should look really good provided the saturation is about the same:  Just prime zenithal and use pink and purple washes to get the flesh bits the right color you want. You can give depth to the white by washing it with a very thin blue and then highlighting it with a cold white color and pure white on the extreme tops. This would be easy and fast to paint.  Or you could go darker. A dark purple with pink highlights is more grimdark. You could use the same method, but it would take more washes. The model above looks hand painted. I really like the armored plates on this guy actually. If I was doing it I would copy the top two flesh colors and the golden green carapace from the third. Do a test model and play around with the technique and see if you like the results.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 02:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 19:55 |
|
|
You're a treasure. Thanks! I'll see what I can do! Edit: I've been asked to see if opalescent or iridescent effects are possible on minis. That might be out of my range but there you go. Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Mar 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 02:33
|
|