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Bad Munki posted:Man, I even went and installed s3d on my PC. So, completely clean install, put in all my settings, sliced it...same glitches. I'll get you an FFF hopefully tonight.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:16
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insta posted:I'll get you an FFF hopefully tonight. No hurry, it's not like it's time-sensitive or anything. Just something I'd like to sort out, I don't want to be locked out of s3d vase mode because of this, but I certainly don't have anything waiting on it except my own interest.  That blue petg sure is purdy, though.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:22
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So finally got my E3Dv6 mount and my rostock max v2 is runnning and its amazing holy poo poo.....how ever the extruder is holy poo poo balls levels of loud, vibrates right into the top of the tower and has a really high pitched pulsing singing to it, how do I reduce both of them before my brain melts out my ears? (im printing a layer fan shroud ATM from ABS, is 228c too hot?
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Mar 8, 2016 07:01
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Mine isn't that loud. I mean, it's louder than the base, but not too bad. The base was WAY more loud than the extruder before I had the dampers on. Check the speed you're printing at, or maybe swap the extruder motor out for one of the tower motors to check the motor itself. The loudest thing I have with the extruder is certain retracts. If I have S3D set to 2mm retracts it's not that bad, but if I have it set to 5mm retracts it's pretty annoying.
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Mar 8, 2016 07:04
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The EZ should not be that loud, make sure that nothing got lose, specially the hobbed gear.
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Mar 8, 2016 13:33
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I guess it depends on what you call "loud" as well. I know that at normal (i.e., 60mm/s, etc.) speeds the printer I'm currently running makes a gentle electronic humming noise, but if you push 100mm/s+ it gets pretty loud in comparison. What speeds are you trying to maintain with the v6? It can certainly handle much higher extrusion/print speeds, but that doesn't necessarily mean the extruder cold end can keep up.
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Mar 8, 2016 16:03
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We took a punt on the latest version of HobbyKing's incredibly cheap Mini Fabrikator https://twitter.com/makerspace_gg/status/706908176638222336 Tiny build volume, sure, but it doesn't actually suck.
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Mar 9, 2016 01:38
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So after swapping the stepper motors around its looking like I have a dud stepper, thing has both a low frequency grinding noise and a high pitched singing that is probably the stepper motor control signal buzzing away 
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Mar 9, 2016 12:58
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Michymech posted:So after swapping the stepper motors around its looking like I have a dud stepper, thing has both a low frequency grinding noise and a high pitched singing that is probably the stepper motor control signal buzzing away sounds like a great excuse to upgrade to a Kysan!
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Mar 9, 2016 13:34
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deimos posted:sounds like a great excuse to upgrade to a Kysan! And what is a kysan?
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Mar 10, 2016 00:34
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deimos posted:sounds like a great excuse to upgrade to a Kysan! Kysan Electronics is the company that makes most of the (good) NEMA17 steppers you see.
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Mar 10, 2016 01:20
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I had a look at the STLs in Netfabb desktop (not cloud) and it looks like there are a ton of those spots in the model:  If you use repair mode and zoom in:  You can see that dark crease and delete the triangles around it..  The geometry isn't really a flat surface like it looks. Doing an x-ray from the side, you can sort of see how it's a tiny-rear end overhang, which is probably what's confusing the slicer even though it is technically valid and watertight: 
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Mar 10, 2016 04:23
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Huh, thanks. I guess it's probably just time to get off my rear end and write my own generator. Which I've been meaning to do anyhow.
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Mar 10, 2016 04:25
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On that same model, what settings would you guys recommend? I've printed one in vase-mode and another in a more regular printing mode with 3 walls, but it still isn't actually water-tight (in that it leaks water at various points if you fill it up). It otherwise looks fine to a visual inspection, and these are very slow one-droplet-a-minute leaks, but still. I've used t-glase in both instances.
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Mar 10, 2016 13:44
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Making it 150% height while keeping the same width reduces the overhangs enough to fix the watertightness, I think. And it looks better like that as well, in my opinion.
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Mar 10, 2016 13:51
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Hey, I installed the dual extruder upgrade on my M2 and now every few layers is shifting in x and y a bit. Has anyone seen this before? 
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Mar 10, 2016 21:51
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The extra weight might be causing your motors to skip steps. Have you tried increasing the current limit?
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Mar 10, 2016 21:55
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So my other problem is i just cant get abs to stay stuck to my bed, how hot should i run the bed and does painters tape really work? Or should i just go stright to abs slurry?
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Mar 10, 2016 22:00
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Sagebrush posted:The extra weight might be causing your motors to skip steps. Have you tried increasing the current limit? Would that be controlled by the pots on the RAMBo board or is there a firmware setting?
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Mar 10, 2016 22:05
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Michymech posted:So my other problem is i just cant get abs to stay stuck to my bed, how hot should i run the bed and does painters tape really work? Or should i just go stright to abs slurry? For ABS, heat the bed to 100 degrees C. For best results, be sure to leave it fully heated at that temperature for a bit before starting your print. If your bed is glass, I really like using using 3DLac. If you don't have glass, painter's tape is okay for PLA, but not great for ABS. Kapton tape is what you'd want to use instead, or any number of other specialty solutions like BuildTak
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Mar 10, 2016 22:13
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Michymech posted:So my other problem is i just cant get abs to stay stuck to my bed, how hot should i run the bed and does painters tape really work? Or should i just go stright to abs slurry? Painters tape is great for PLA, sucks for ABS. For ABS, print directly on the glass, with hairspray, glue stick, or ABS slurry. Everyone seems to have their favorite, I use AquaNet Extra Super Hold hairspray, and it works great for me.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:16
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Greatest Living Man posted:Would that be controlled by the pots on the RAMBo board or is there a firmware setting? Potentiometers on the RAMBO. Turn them up about an eighth of a turn at a time.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:20
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Sagebrush posted:Potentiometers on the RAMBO. Turn them up about an eighth of a turn at a time. The actual RAMBO board uses firmware to control the current, not mechanical potentiometers. You adjust the current in the firmware and re-flash it, in other words.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:22
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Greatest Living Man posted:Would that be controlled by the pots on the RAMBo board or is there a firmware setting? I know on ramps boards the driver carriers have a little trimpot for adjusting the current limit, but looking at the documentation for the Rambo, it says it has digipots to set the current limit. So it would be a firmware setting. That said I don't actually see any pots on the pictures of rambo boards. So if you have some, I'm not sure you have a rambo.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:24
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Sorry, yeah, I'm thinking of the RAMPS. On a RAMBO it will be a firmware setting. Add like 10-20% to whatever's on there right now and try again.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:25
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 Yeah just spent a few minutes with a flashlight looking around for them and then googled it.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:32
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The trimpot settings for the Rambo are in configuration_adv.h
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Mar 10, 2016 22:51
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Depending on if your drivers are near their thermal limit or not, you could alternatively turn down XY Jerk and/or acceleration in your firmware config to avoid skipping steps.
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Mar 10, 2016 23:03
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Greatest Living Man posted:Hey, You flashed the provided firmware with the newest version of Arduino, didn't you? There's a bug in the compiler that causes skipped steps in Marlin. It's a super loving annoying problem to track down. Use Arduino version 1.5.1 to flash.
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Mar 10, 2016 23:42
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insta posted:You flashed the provided firmware with the newest version of Arduino, didn't you? There's a bug in the compiler that causes skipped steps in Marlin. It's a super loving annoying problem to track down. Do you have a link to this? This is a big deal.
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Mar 11, 2016 00:04
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insta posted:You flashed the provided firmware with the newest version of Arduino, didn't you? There's a bug in the compiler that causes skipped steps in Marlin. It's a super loving annoying problem to track down. Oh poo poo hahah. Thanks. Yeah I flashed custom firmware for the dual extruder + LCD because makergear doesn't currently supply it. I'll post the info in a bit
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Mar 11, 2016 00:07
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It was fixed quickly in newer Marlins, there was just a perfect storm of when MakerGear modified their firmware for duals and when the bug got fixed. I track my own firmwares and use the newest Arduino, but the downloadable version from MakerGear themselves needs 1.5.1 http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2568
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Mar 11, 2016 00:09
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insta posted:You flashed the provided firmware with the newest version of Arduino, didn't you? There's a bug in the compiler that causes skipped steps in Marlin. It's a super loving annoying problem to track down. That's very interesting, I'll have to try that out myself. I get random layer shifting on the y-axis but only on longer prints and at inconsistent heights.
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Mar 11, 2016 02:11
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I made my first useful thing! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1377535
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Mar 11, 2016 03:16
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Does anyone have any tips for leveling the m2 bed? It still takes me forever.
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Mar 11, 2016 18:56
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Crunch all screws down underneath. Z endstop on the high end of the bed (front or back) until a business card drags. Move to the other side and let the screw out until a business card drags. Move bed to the middle, carriage to far right and let the middle screw out until a business card drags. Double-check it on the carriage at home. Print a 20x20x3mm box at 50% infill, measure the height, use the difference from 3mm for your slicer's gcode Z offset.
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Mar 11, 2016 20:52
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insta posted:Our machines will never work with this 1.60mm filament! So I flashed the mesh bed leveling Marlin to my shitbird Robo3d R1 printer and as it moves from one probe point to the next it just drags the nozzle along the bed. Any idea where to put a probe retraction value in so that it will pull up off of the bed when I click the LCD button to tell it that it's touched-off on the bed?
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Mar 11, 2016 22:01
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I kind of want to build a scara printer. Not for any good reason, mind. Anyone here do that yet?
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Mar 12, 2016 01:04
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Anyone familiar with Repetier Firmware? I've got a RAMPS board setup, with a Diamond hotend, and I want the color-mixing capability that this firmware provides. I'm having a HELL of a time configuring it properly - the web tool is janky and seems to output the wrong settings, and the config file is barely commented.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:34
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I had a few days of good printing, and tonight I spent 3 hours unable to even lay down the first layer. Very annoying.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:34
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