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You can get iridescent medium and mix it in paints for that effect. Every art company like Liquitex and Golden make them. Alternately get the Metal N Alchemy sets from Scale 75. They have colored metallics called Alchemy paints that are less strongly metallic and look more pearlescent or opalescent.
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Mar 11, 2016 03:14
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Well, that's interesting to know. Thanks.
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Mar 11, 2016 03:53
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richyp posted:are there optimal conditions for spray varnishing mini's or is it the same voodoo as white primer? It's far more finicky voodoo.
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Mar 11, 2016 04:32
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Getting an airbrush has changed my opinion on varnishing massively. Gone from "Eeeeeeeeh... do I have to?" and avoiding it as much as possible to doing it at pretty much every opportunity. It's like I haven't hit f6 in a while in a bathesda game if I haven't varnished after doing anything substantial. Going to touch the model, or stop painting it for a little? Varnish. Going to look at the model slightly aggressively? Coat of varnish.
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Mar 11, 2016 06:27
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Re: opalescent paint, I've had good experiences with Vallejo's Metal Medium 70.521. It works dece on its own and can be mixed with other colors.
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Mar 11, 2016 07:19
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I put a load of metal and plastic Eldar in to soak in brown dettol. How long do I have to leave it for before I go nuts with an old toothbrush?Yeast posted:Finished up my Steel Legion armies' Armageddon Ork Hunter unit; Just going to add how terrific these are. Is this part of a larger army?
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Mar 11, 2016 12:52
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...Spyro?
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Mar 11, 2016 13:21
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More pics for the pics god  
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Mar 11, 2016 15:41
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 Todays paintjob is a Nomad Moderator of Bakunin. (didn't notice the pacman and ghosts in her hair until I started painting  )Also gently caress painting stockings, it's difficult to make them look translucent, must've redone them like 3 times after going to overzealous with the flesh glaze.
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Mar 11, 2016 16:37
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richyp posted:Also gently caress painting stockings, it's difficult to make them look translucent, must've redone them like 3 times after going to overzealous with the flesh glaze.
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Mar 11, 2016 17:21
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berzerkmonkey posted:How did you do them? I've got a couple of Zombicide models with stockings and I don't just want to paint black or white. The easiest way is to paint them in almost-black, and then mix in small amounts of your flesh color and paint the parts that would be sheer. The tighter it is against the skin, the more flesh tone you mix in and the sheerer it looks. So the thighs and calves will be more flesh-colored than around the knee or ankle where the material will be less stretched out.
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Mar 11, 2016 17:27
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berzerkmonkey posted:How did you do them? I've got a couple of Zombicide models with stockings and I don't just want to paint black or white. JoshTheStampede posted:The easiest way is to paint them in almost-black, and then mix in small amounts of your flesh color and paint the parts that would be sheer. The tighter it is against the skin, the more flesh tone you mix in and the sheerer it looks. So the thighs and calves will be more flesh-colored than around the knee or ankle where the material will be less stretched out. Exactly like that. With white stockings you can also do it in reverse if you want them to look wet/more see-through. The ones above were meant to be darker and more subtle but I've done them on two other models recently.  Left was 4:1:1 VMC Neutral grey + Russian Green + Orange, then with the first flesh colour added to the mix along with about 4 parts glaze medium added and painted on raised/tightest areas. Then just reapply that glaze more an more over the areas where you want it the tightest (in her case the upper right leg where the light would hit. Middle one S75 Eclipse Grey with a glaze of Neutral Grey + VMC Orange + Sand Yellow. The right one was sky grey, wash of the flesh highlight, then glazed in white. The lighter skin wash makes them seem wet/sheer, rather than just tight that the darker skin glaze does. The wet shirt was done the same way but with no white highlight, just sand yellow instead. She was also primed white rather than grey like the other two so she's brighter. richyp fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 17:40
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Fyrbrand posted:More pics for the pics god I love Salamanders. Awesome paint job!
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Mar 11, 2016 18:01
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JoshTheStampede posted:The easiest way is to paint them in almost-black, and then mix in small amounts of your flesh color and paint the parts that would be sheer. The tighter it is against the skin, the more flesh tone you mix in and the sheerer it looks. So the thighs and calves will be more flesh-colored than around the knee or ankle where the material will be less stretched out. richyp posted:Exactly like that. With white stockings you can also do it in reverse if you want them to look wet/more see-through. The ones above were meant to be darker and more subtle but I've done them on two other models recently.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:04
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Most of these paint jobs are several years old at this point, but I repainted all the orange bits last night so they'd match my army color scheme.   
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Mar 11, 2016 20:22
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I use resin bases in small mini count games, and I love them, but I am getting to a point with Warpath where I need to base like 60 dudes. Thats about 40 bucks in resin bases if I went that route. No good. So I need to figure out a way to make bases that are appropriate matches for the resin bases I use on the more important figures that I already have. Rank and file bases, as quick as possible. Currently I have 3 major themes: scrapyard, urban streets/rubble, and dwarven caverns. What's the goodness for quick bases that blend into the background? Just smear some texture paste on, add a couple bits, and paint it whatever appropriate color?
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Mar 11, 2016 20:25
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Fyrbrand posted:More pics for the pics god Thats some lovely green Also some lovely blue
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Mar 11, 2016 20:40
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Vermintide posted:Most of these paint jobs are several years old at this point, but I repainted all the orange bits last night so they'd match my army color scheme. I love orange on Skaven. What are you using them for?
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Mar 11, 2016 20:44
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I love orange on Skaven. What are you using them for? Currently... to paint and look pretty on my shelves. I have a collection of probably around 18k points worth (as per 8th ed WHFB  ) of rats that I plan to re-purpose into some KoW and/or 9th Age and/or Oldhammer/8th forces. KoW looks pretty promising though.
Vermintide fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 20:54
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So I just got some reaper minis in the mail for an upcoming D&D campaign. I've never painted metal before; just plastic. Is there anything different or that I should know?
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Mar 12, 2016 03:38
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:So I just got some reaper minis in the mail for an upcoming D&D campaign. I've never painted metal before; just plastic. Is there anything different or that I should know? Definitely prime them. And probably varnish before using them for gaming.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:04
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JoshTheStampede posted:Definitely prime them. And probably varnish before using them for gaming. Perfect, those are things I already do with my plastics, so no worries there. Thanks
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Mar 12, 2016 04:14
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For metal I recommend using a gloss varnish followed by a matte. Gloss tends to be tougher, and the matte will kill the shiny.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:19
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I'm painting up some panthers with unpainted parts, and I'm wondering if edge highlights are always meant to be brighter or if they're meant to be a faded colour, whether that's brighter or darker?
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Mar 12, 2016 08:29
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crime fighting hog posted:
This is pretty late, but who's the company that mixes resin and massive metal pieces so I can make sure never to buy from them.
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Mar 12, 2016 10:58
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:So I just got some reaper minis in the mail for an upcoming D&D campaign. I've never painted metal before; just plastic. Is there anything different or that I should know? Scrub them thoroughly with dish soap, rinse them thoroughly with water, prime them first. Otherwise, treat them basically the same.
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Mar 12, 2016 11:23
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ijyt posted:This is pretty late, but who's the company that mixes resin and massive metal pieces so I can make sure never to buy from them. Privateer Press.
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Mar 12, 2016 14:56
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ijyt posted:This is pretty late, but who's the company that mixes resin and massive metal pieces so I can make sure never to buy from them. Privateer Press. In their defense, I believe they've stopped doing it on their newer stuff, but yes it's a bit of a bitch. One of the metal... brackets on the big robot's pelvis fell off when I looked at it funny. Granted, I didn't assemble these, the guy who did uses some lovely glue.
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Mar 12, 2016 15:53
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I'm having a bit of a crappy time airbrushing lately as I've gotten into collecting Gundam models rather than just Warhammer/Warmachine, and getting a few snippets of time to use my new Badger patriot. Yesterday I tried highlighting a lighter shade of colour on top of another to keep shadows in recessed areas, but the paint just kinda half/faintly blew out giving miserable spotty coverage. I use Vallejo model air which should be thin enough out the pot at 30 PSI (any lower just wouldn't work), I did however notice my air compressor won't actually spray at 30 PSI, you can crank the pressure higher and higher but pulling the trigger makes it float around 25 PSI max. I've got one of these without a tank, could it be something like the pressure valves getting worn out? and maybe be worthwhile trying to attach an air tank? 
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Mar 12, 2016 17:11
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You shouldn't need to be anywhere near 30psi to spray VMA. I use it at 10-15. Does your patriot spray water at 10-15 ok?
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Mar 12, 2016 17:14
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spectralent posted:I'm painting up some panthers with unpainted parts, and I'm wondering if edge highlights are always meant to be brighter or if they're meant to be a faded colour, whether that's brighter or darker? I'm not sure what you are asking here - edge highlighting with a darker color usually wouldn't make sense since the point is to simulate light catching edges. As to whether to use a brighter note saturated color or a brighter but greyer/faded color, that's up to you, either works and it's just a different effect.
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Mar 12, 2016 17:30
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Crossposting from the WarmaHordes thread, please excuse the lousy photo quality: I had some extra spare time this week and decided to finish some of my Blindwater models that have been left at the primer stage for too long as well as go back and retouch or redo some of the older models that I was satisfied with.        The gatormen still need some work on an individual basis but I like how the rusty spears came out They were just a really sloppy nmm grey before and I think the rust and metallic paint looks loads better.
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Mar 12, 2016 18:23
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How long should I let paint cure before varnishing?
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Mar 12, 2016 19:05
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thespaceinvader posted:How long should I let paint cure before varnishing? Depends. Most acrylic paints I used, even when thinned are dry in a few minutes after being brushed on. Washes can really vary in dry time though. This is why I have a small fan on my desk I put models in front of to speed up dry times while I work on other stuff.
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Mar 12, 2016 19:13
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thespaceinvader posted:How long should I let paint cure before varnishing? Testor's recommends 24 hours. I might even go as long as a week to ensure that the paint is 100% cured.
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Mar 12, 2016 19:31
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crime fighting hog posted:Depends. Most acrylic paints I used, even when thinned are dry in a few minutes after being brushed on. Washes can really vary in dry time though. This is why I have a small fan on my desk I put models in front of to speed up dry times while I work on other stuff. Hairdryers on a low setting work really well for almost instantly drying washes, just make sure they're on low and far enough away that it doesn't blow the wash around. I use this in order to get a miniature painted in one sitting due to time constraints. Paints thinned with certain mediums can take longer to dry (I know the flow enhancer I add slows down drying by several minutes)and in some cases can take an hour+. Hair-dryering will speed those up too. Most varnish products will recommend 24hrs though. EDIT: efb;
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Mar 12, 2016 19:33
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Do you guys see any massive difference? I always wait 30min or so and then throw on the varnish. Hell I sometimes varnish over the top of still curing oil paints so that I can continue painting.
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Mar 12, 2016 22:23
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I've never noticed any difference between waiting and just slapping it on. Although in theory they should be more durable if you wait. Except for the minitaire ghost tints. I've had those bleed through the varnish even after like an 8 hour wait. 24 hours minimum when I'm varnishing over those.
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Mar 12, 2016 23:07
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Yeah, I just make sure to give it 15-30 minutes since I last put wet paint on it, and I've not had any problems. Maybe more if you have a really really watery wash. Varnishing over oil paints sounds like a pretty good way to get cracking in the long run, though maybe minis just aren't big enough for it to show up.
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Mar 12, 2016 23:13
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Not varnished anything in about 15 years so I was going off memory with the 24hr thing. I'm guessing the type of paints/mediums etc.. affect the durability of the varnish but for me anything painted in VMC is usually finger dry in a few minutes anyway.
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Mar 12, 2016 23:20
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