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Discount Tire is almost everywhere in the country, so warranty work is a snap if you're near one. Prices are generally comparable to Tirerack's after shipping.
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Mar 11, 2016 00:43
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Shooting Blanks posted:Stupid tire question: Crazytire has free shipping on tires, might check if they have a similar tire that doesn't cost you $45 in shipping? I always get tires installed by the guy across from my work and ship them to work. Last two sets have been $40 to swap since I gave him tires with enough life he could resell.
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Mar 11, 2016 01:14
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I checked Amazon for the hell of it and apparently they sell tires. Unfortunately I don't know any of the brands that are cheaper, but Prime shipping!
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Mar 11, 2016 02:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've been happy with every set of Kumho tires I've owned, including the set of Discount-rebranded Kumhos I have on my WJ right now. They probably won't be best-in-class but they'll be safe, reliable, and usually damned affordable too. PaintVagrant posted:I've got kumho all seasons on my civic and I can't complain at all. I was broke as poo poo when I needed new tires and they were like 400 mounted with a warranty at discount tire.  (not from the place that put on the wrong size earlier obviously,  )
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Mar 11, 2016 02:38
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What's the loudest horn I can get to run off 12V without requiring an air compressor? Mine is wimpy and I luv 2 honk.
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Mar 11, 2016 03:37
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shabbat goy posted:What's the loudest horn I can get to run off 12V without requiring an air compressor? Mine is wimpy and I luv 2 honk. I've suggested this several times before: you need to hit a junk yard and find an old cadillac. Tri tone boat horns for the win.
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Mar 11, 2016 03:42
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To wit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3e5BCE9zFI
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Mar 11, 2016 03:46
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shabbat goy posted:What's the loudest horn I can get to run off 12V without requiring an air compressor? Mine is wimpy and I luv 2 honk. I put a PIAA "Superior Bass tone" horn set on my Prius. It's really deep - like a pickup truck, and loud. I like it a LOT. http://amzn.com/B0060ZB43G Somehow, the Hella Supertones are JDM-AS-gently caress MAD TYTE on Subaru WRXs. They sound really high pitched to me - don't like em. I used to have a couple of sets of those all-in-one air horns - which has a built in compressor. they sound silly like trumpets, and don't last.
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Mar 11, 2016 04:06
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You all are wrong. Get a Carson "electronic air horn" amp and an eBay police/ambulance horn. It only makes a honk noise, not a siren, but it's loud as gently caress.
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Mar 11, 2016 04:33
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Are Rumblers legal for road use?
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Mar 11, 2016 06:57
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I mixed Mercon V with Dex/Merc in my 2011 Ford ranger. How badly did I screw up? The Dipstick says use Mercon V and I thought the Dex/Merc was compatible. Did you just top it up with the dex/merc or do a flush with it? Is is slipping at all?
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Mar 11, 2016 08:58
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Asking for a friend who's long distance. 2004 Honda Accord, 2.4L, ~200k Car is throwing P1009 - VTC advance malfunction. She took it to the dealer (...) and they wanted to replace the VTC solenoid and clean the strainer. Sound right? Any idea how much a regular shop would charge to do that? She was quoted ~$350.
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Mar 11, 2016 10:03
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Elmnt80 posted:Did you just top it up with the dex/merc or do a flush with it? Is is slipping at all? I drained and refilled. It's been running fine since I did it.
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Mar 11, 2016 12:54
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Sorry for asking in this thread but I have about two to three hours before I decide to leave. I plan on seeing this car tomorrow. However, I am a bit worried it hasn't sold in 22 days though. It also said its battery was replaced on the Car Fax 2/2014 and again on 8/2014 at a dealership. Are these things bad signs?
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Mar 11, 2016 14:00
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shabbat goy posted:What's the loudest horn I can get to run off 12V without requiring an air compressor? Mine is wimpy and I luv 2 honk. A friend used to have a SUV he installed a 18 wheeler horn in (with its own special button) so he could gently caress with people. It was pretty great.
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Mar 11, 2016 14:23
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shabbat goy posted:What's the loudest horn I can get to run off 12V without requiring an air compressor? Mine is wimpy and I luv 2 honk. Stebel Nautilus or a set of high/low Stebel Magnums. Plus loudness aside, the tone from the Nautilus is great. I have heard of reliability issues, though. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii87iO6JboA The magnums sound great as well, and I thoroughly enjoyed having a set on my Suzuki Bandit. They've got that "I'm a very large and very fast car, get out of my way" sound. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovYdEc2mDzk Of course, we all know there is only one correct choice of horn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEnK4Hywj2k KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 14:43
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2007 Toyota camry hybrid, 150k miles Parents car, I am visiting them in sunny FL this week. Noticed when my mom was driving me somewhere that there was a faint ticking noise on decel. It was intermittent (the engine running at all is intermittent because hybrid). I checked the oil when we stopped and it was below the two dots by about a 1/4 inch. I put 3/4 of a quart in today and that got it to a bit past the middle mark of the dots. I noticed some oil around the valve cover edges, I assume its the original gasket and probably baked into shards at this point. Should they be worried? They are driving around today, when I get a chance I will drive it and see if the valve ticking (I assume thats what it was) goes away.
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Mar 11, 2016 15:59
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punk rebel ecks posted:Sorry for asking in this thread but I have about two to three hours before I decide to leave. I don't know poo poo about hybrids, but I don't think a white 2011 Prius sitting on a lot for a month is a concern. However, a battery replacement on a hybrid twice in 80,000 miles raises my right eyebrow. Can you find out how much a battery replacement costs?
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Mar 11, 2016 16:06
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Couldn't that just be the regular, non hybrid battery being replaced?
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Mar 11, 2016 18:47
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Does the Toyota Prius have a regular battery in addition to the hybrid battery? Like do I need to buy a new battery every 2 or so years like normal cars?
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Mar 11, 2016 19:09
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Yeah, it's called the auxiliary battery, and it looks like it hides in the trunk. e. vvvv Every three years is pretty common for a normal car, isn't it?
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Mar 11, 2016 19:32
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punk rebel ecks posted:Does the Toyota Prius have a regular battery in addition to the hybrid battery? You buy a battery every two years for your normal car???
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Mar 11, 2016 19:32
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I'd say 2 years for a Prius auxiliary battery (it doesn't actually provide cranking power, that's done with one of the drive motors, the 12v just runs the interior electrics) is a bit fast, it doesn't get discharged like a typical car battery and it's in a climate controlled area so no heat degradation. Call and ask to clarify which battery was replaced if you're still interested.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:36
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Safety Dance posted:Yeah, it's called the auxiliary battery, and it looks like it hides in the trunk. I've never replaced one less than five years old. If you abuse it or live in extremely hot weather, maybe, but that's still a stretch.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:37
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Godholio posted:I've never replaced one less than five years old. If you abuse it or live in extremely hot weather, maybe, but that's still a stretch. I'm only a month or so away from 100F on a daily basis. Batteries last three to four years here for most people.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:52
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Safety Dance posted:e. vvvv Every three years is pretty common for a normal car, isn't it? I replaced my battery for the first time after 7 years, but I live in the Midwest, so only a few HOT days every year. I'd be pissed if I had to buy a new more often than every 3-4 years.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:57
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How many fuse boxes should a 1999 ford explorer have?
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Mar 11, 2016 20:08
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Ideally, it should be four tires and nothing else but fuse boxes. Hundreds of fuse boxes. e. The real answer is 2. c.f. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180814 Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 20:27
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EightBit posted:I'm only a month or so away from 100F on a daily basis. Batteries last three to four years here for most people. Oklahoma, Florida, Utah, Nevada. Usually 5-6 for me. I abused the hell out of my old Jeep's battery the entire 4 years I owned that thing. Flattened it at least twice.
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Mar 11, 2016 21:24
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At what point do you throw in the towel on an old car? Mine is a 99 Altima with 245k miles on it. Her shocks are shot, she is leaking oil, the power windows no longer work. And for the third time in a few months the Check Engine light has come on. It's been about 600 bucks in damages so far and the loving light came on again today. I already did the new gas cap so it's something else. I wouldn't worry about this but I have to test for emissions by the middle of April. I do have some money set aside, and am looking at this used car (http://www.lhmscionpeoria.com/used/Hyundai/2004-Hyundai-Accent-2fe38fdb0a0e0adf496c1cfd1a9ca8c1.htm) mostly because every time I get a reading on the light, it's 4 or 5 items that could be wrong, a deeper check costs more money, and the repair is always over $200...only for the drat light to pop on again. But the biggest thing that holds me back is what if the next car has MORE poo poo wrong with it? Like the alternator is ready to go, the transmission is a month from making GBS threads, etc.
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Mar 12, 2016 02:57
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I drained and refilled. It's been running fine since I did it. The earlier version of mercon you would find in most dex/merc blends will not have the various additives and will not stand up to the same temps as mercon V. I'd say find a way to completely drain it yourself if possible (this means getting what is in the torque converter as well) or have a shop do it. If you aren't having any slippage, the fluid isn't smelling burnt on the dipstick and you don't see any metallic flakes, you likely don't have any damage to worry about. I'd just say get it all swapped as soon as its reasonably possible. If it makes you feel better, I've made the exact same mistake with dex III/VI and know what a pain in the rear end it is to waste all that perfectly good fluid and money.
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Mar 12, 2016 02:58
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some texas redneck posted:Asking for a friend who's long distance. 2004 Honda Accord, 2.4L, ~200k Check the oil level first - low oil on a Honda will starve thee VTEC solenoid of oil. If the oil is fine - then just replace the solenoid - that sounds like a very reasonable price for such a thing.
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Mar 12, 2016 03:23
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Elmnt80 posted:The earlier version of mercon you would find in most dex/merc blends will not have the various additives and will not stand up to the same temps as mercon V. I'd say find a way to completely drain it yourself if possible (this means getting what is in the torque converter as well) or have a shop do it. If you aren't having any slippage, the fluid isn't smelling burnt on the dipstick and you don't see any metallic flakes, you likely don't have any damage to worry about. I'd just say get it all swapped as soon as its reasonably possible. If it makes you feel better, I've made the exact same mistake with dex III/VI and know what a pain in the rear end it is to waste all that perfectly good fluid and money. Thanks! I changed the fluid because of some hard shifts and the fluid that came out was black. Thankfully I have a 30k warranty on the drivetrain. I'll get a flush done and see if that improves things any.
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Mar 12, 2016 06:07
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0toShifty posted:Check the oil level first - low oil on a Honda will starve thee VTEC solenoid of oil. Had her do that, oil level was fine. Oil only has about 1000 miles on it as well. I'll tell her to go ahead with it. Thanks. Cowslips Warren posted:Mine is a 99 Altima with 245k miles on it. Her shocks are shot, she is leaking oil, the power windows no longer work. And for the third time in a few months the Check Engine light has come on. It's been about 600 bucks in damages so far and the loving light came on again today. I already did the new gas cap so it's something else. As a former owner of a 99 Altima... I threw in the towel around 180k. Mine had a rattling timing chain, which is pretty much an engine-out job to fix. Also had body damage from a hit and run, and needed an a/c compressor soon. What code is it throwing though? I spent a few months chasing various EVAP codes on mine, but they mostly wound up being caused by a bad solenoid by the tank and also by rotten evap lines (also by the tank). I did all of that work myself and wound up spending about $30. A persistent EGR code wound up being a hole in an EGR line.
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Mar 12, 2016 16:53
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The girlfriend just bought a used 98 beetle and no matter what settings we put the temp knobs on the vents keep blowing out hot air. Any ideas?
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Mar 12, 2016 22:08
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Not familiar with the model but probably a disconnect between the temperature knob and the blend doors, or else the blend door actuator is bad. Unfortunately this is usually a bear to deal with because the heater and AC cores are buried beneath the dashboard and massively inconvenient to get at.
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Mar 12, 2016 22:18
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Len posted:The girlfriend just bought a used 98 beetle and no matter what settings we put the temp knobs on the vents keep blowing out hot air. Any ideas? Same this as my 1980s Porsche: there is a plastic clip on the blend door actuator that failed. They fail "hot". Climb into the passenger's side. Get down on the floor and look at where the carpet goes. It kinda lifts up there.....pull it back. You should see the blend door actuator. It's a rod that si supposed to be attached to a plastic thing. That plastic thing is probably no longer attached to the rod. It's either worn out or plain broken. If so, go to the VW dealership and tell them what you need. They sell them by the truck load. Good job, Porsche/VAG, never change.
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Mar 13, 2016 00:10
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Changed brakes and rotors on the two front tires today. Besides the fact that I needed a sledgehammer to remove my old rusty rotors, I have another problem. It feels like the brakes are always applied. It doesn't go forward like normal when I put it in Drive. And to make it Drive or reverse, I have to step on the pedal way more than I should be, just to go 5 mph or something. And it seems I don't need to step on the brake pedal to switch gears. and that's when I thought the problem was too big for me. If I loosen the nuts on the tires a bit, my car can accel forward without me stepping on the gas, but then I'll have loose nuts on my tires. Before this, I googled a bit and read something about bleeding the brakes. I think we bled the brakes but I'm not sure and if we did we only did it on the left tire. yea stupid questions thread. I had the wrong sized rotors. Tipme fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Mar 13, 2016 |
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Mar 13, 2016 02:50
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Tipme posted:2002 jeep wrangler, sahara You can ease your pain on the next rotor replacement by slathering the hub with antiseize. If your car feels like brakes are being applied, sure, maintain the fluid, but also check the parking brake assembly.
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Mar 13, 2016 15:22
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Tipme posted:2002 jeep wrangler, sahara When you changed the brakes, did you push the caliper pistons back home all the way? Did they move relatively smoothly? Was there evidence of corrosion on them? I think you have calipers that slide on pins side to side, those pins being seized would produce the same effect. It's 50/50 which is most likely, but the pins are easiest to check with the caliper unbolted, so you will be able to check both. CharlieWhiskey posted:If your car feels like brakes are being applied, sure, maintain the fluid, but also check the parking brake assembly.
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Mar 13, 2016 18:39
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