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Bleed your brakes correctly, too. Doing that one corner did absolutely nothing. And for the love of your life and everyone around you, don't loosen your loving lugnuts. They'll finish the job and escape, then your tire will probably total another vehicle when it flies off.
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Mar 13, 2016 20:33
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Godholio posted:Bleed your brakes correctly, too. Doing that one corner did absolutely nothing. And for the love of your life and everyone around you, don't loosen your loving lugnuts. They'll finish the job and escape, then your tire will probably total another vehicle when it flies off.  honestly I don't think you should be working on cars Tipme, no offense.
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Mar 13, 2016 20:36
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Thank you for the words of encouragement. Of course I wouldn't drive with loose nuts, it was just an observation and thought that was useful info to add. Anyway, lady at Advanced auto parts gave me the wrong sized rotors, I mean yea, I could've saved time with a simple measurement. I just wrongly assumed I had all the correct poo poo. I was given 82mm instead of 78mm. thank you stupid questions thread.
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Mar 13, 2016 20:54
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Tipme posted:Thank you for the words of encouragement. Of course I wouldn't drive with loose nuts, it was just an observation and thought that was useful info to add. Drive safe. 
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Mar 13, 2016 22:24
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I wouldn't have even thought to measure them.
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Mar 13, 2016 23:17
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Godholio posted:I wouldn't have even thought to measure them. Have one catch fire on a road test and you will make sure they give you the right rotors every time for rest of your days.
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Mar 13, 2016 23:31
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I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 3.7L V6. My driver's side front window over the last couple weeks started making a bit of a grinding noise, almost sounding like a piece of gravel was somehow stuck between the window and door panel. This weekend it finally went completely to poo poo and made a god-awful screeching sound and stopped rolling down, and wouldn't go back up all the way. At one point it slid down about 1/4 of the way and I had to manually grab the window from either side and lift it up but going over a bump would cause it to slide back down. Later in the day I tried the window control again and the motor engaged and rolled the window up properly so it's staying put for now. Reading about this it seems that it's likely the window regulator. My brother replaced one in his truck and he says it's best to just buy the window regulator and motor and replace them both. This is something I'd really like to do myself because it would save a shitload of money. My problem is I'm having trouble finding a regulator. I called Advance Auto and they would be able to order the front driver's side motor and gave me a part number (Cardone, 42633) but they can't order a regulator. I found this one on ebay. It looks like it's both the regulator and motor. Just wanting to see if anyone could confirm that or if anyone knows where else to find a regulator for an 08 Jeep as I haven't had much luck yet and don't really want to have to go through my dealer.
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Mar 14, 2016 01:08
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Godholio posted:I wouldn't have even thought to measure them. Would you have thought they might not be right when there were hitting the caliper?
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Mar 14, 2016 01:52
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Motronic posted:Would you have thought they might not be right when there were hitting the caliper? Well yeah, I meant before installing them.
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Mar 14, 2016 02:59
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Safety Dance posted:You had a problem 20,000 miles ago and now you have an almost-certainly-unrelated problem. Yes. No. It threw the code again (for the second ignition coil), so I pulled it out and saw that the boot was cracked. I pulled off the broken boot, cleaned the spring with some electronics cleaner, and put the boot back, sealing the split with RTV. If (when) it comes back again, I'll replace it. Thanks everybody for your help!
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Mar 14, 2016 03:12
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Update re: the life and times of my beater van After letting it sit for a couple weeks, I fired it up and noticed it was leaking something once running. A quick sniff confirmed it was petrol. Would still idle (after it worked through its usual cold starting issue), but when I tried it again today I couldn't even get it to idle without dying. Granted, I didn't spend a whole lot of time on it, but I figured 1) it wasn't a good idea to be doing that with petrol leaking out at a pretty steady rate and 2) the fuel leak was possibly what was starving the engine. I got undernearth it and traced the leak to this doodad, what am I likely looking at? Am I pretty much SOL as far as patching/plugging it due to the corrosive nature of petrol? I really only needed this stupid thing to last me another couple of weeks/tens of kms until I move. 
Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Mar 14, 2016 |
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Mar 14, 2016 07:27
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Looks like an inline fuel filter. If it really is temporary, you could probably get away with bypassing it, but a replacement would only be a few bucks. If it's in the engine bay, a metal replacement would be much less fire-prone, but if it's literally a 3-week fix then roll the die and hope the car doesn't burn down, lol. Should be able to bring it into any parts store and get a replacement. They're generic / not application specific.
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Mar 14, 2016 08:22
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So is buying used car from a city a big no no even if it has low miles? Like 40,000?
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Mar 14, 2016 14:11
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punk rebel ecks posted:So is buying used car from a city a big no no even if it has low miles? Like 40,000? What color is it? Serious response though - why would it matter where you bought it from? Look for he same thing you would anywhere - service records, carfax/autocheck and a PPI.
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Mar 14, 2016 14:33
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punk rebel ecks posted:So is buying used car from a city a big no no even if it has low miles? Like 40,000? Oh my god just buy any car at this point!
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Mar 14, 2016 14:46
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punk rebel ecks posted:So is buying used car from a city a big no no even if it has low miles? Like 40,000? The only geographic consideration I might remotely consider would be whether or not the car spent winters above the snow line where roads are salted numerous times each winter. Otherwise, cowboys and city slickers both beat the poo poo out of their cars.
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Mar 14, 2016 14:56
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Bovril Delight posted:What color is it? I've heard that city driving is rougher on a car than country driving. CharlieWhiskey posted:The only geographic consideration I might remotely consider would be whether or not the car spent winters above the snow line where roads are salted numerous times each winter. Otherwise, cowboys and city slickers both beat the poo poo out of their cars. I see thank you. Safety Dance posted:Oh my god just buy any car at this point! Calm down.
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Mar 14, 2016 15:15
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It usually is, but 40k is not a big deal unless it's a year old. After years of stop-and-go city driving, gridlock traffic fender benders, and road salt accumulation, that's when I start to care about city vs highway. My Jeep has seen less abuse than others at 70,000 because I've moved across the country a couple of times since buying it so most of the miles are on the highway. But at only 70k, I doubt it would be in much worse shape if I drove it daily in a city. You should really just read some buying guides online and get an idea of what's going on. Godholio fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Mar 14, 2016 |
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Mar 14, 2016 15:36
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punk rebel ecks posted:
I'm sorry, it's just frustrating watching you invent heuristics surrounding the purchase of a samey driving appliance. My offer still stands -- I will gladly crawl around on the ground under a few cars to help you find one that isn't objectively terrible.
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Mar 14, 2016 15:54
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Godholio posted:You should really just read some buying guides online and get an idea of what's going on. I'll do this since it seems like I'm making you guys mad. Sorry I didn't mean to. I just wanted to make sure I buy the right car.
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Mar 14, 2016 15:56
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I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it's the best used car buying advice. You're conducting an interview with the owner of the car. It's often very clear when you're dealing with someone who takes care of their poo poo, or someone who treated it as a disposable appliance. I think you're looking at the right vehicles, you just need to get out there and look/drive some cars. You will know when you have the right one.
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Mar 14, 2016 16:17
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PaintVagrant posted:I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it's the best used car buying advice. You're conducting an interview with the owner of the car. It's often very clear when you're dealing with someone who takes care of their poo poo, or someone who treated it as a disposable appliance. One of my favorite used card buying experiences is the guy who said a car had cosmetic damage only. Get there - the front reinforcement bar is entirely crushed in, the frame horns are bent inward and the SRS light is on. He seemed to think these items were only cosmetic issues. I told him that if he was to get into an accident the safety of that vehicle is severely compromised but he didn't seem to mind at all.
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Mar 14, 2016 22:16
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PaintVagrant posted:I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it's the best used car buying advice. You're conducting an interview with the owner of the car. It's often very clear when you're dealing with someone who takes care of their poo poo, or someone who treated it as a disposable appliance. Yep. When I bought my Ranger, I test-drove one that I passed on, and attempted to test-drive another, before I drove (and bought) the one I ended up with. The first one I test-drove was listed (by a private owner) as having features it obviously didn't have, had multiple warning lights on, rattled like hell, and was in general a shitbox. I never even left the neighborhood with it. The owner - or at least the only person I'd been talking to - was either the wife or ex-wife or in process of becoming ex-wife of the primary driver of the thing, it wasn't really clear. Obviously no interest in the thing at all and didn't even bat an eye at the fact that I drove halfway down the street, turned around, parked it, and didn't so much as make an offer. Next one was the one I tried to test-drive, some loving idiot who couldn't even be assed to meet up at an agreed time/place 30 minutes after agreeing to it. Too stupid to understand how to meet someone, too stupid to take care of a truck. Last was the one I bought, and the second-owner seller practically couldn't wait to tell me all of the parts he'd replaced on it in recent history. As it turned out he didn't do such a good job of them so I had to redo a few but overall it was obvious that thing had been (mostly) taken care of despite being a cheap truck at a cheap-truck price.
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Mar 14, 2016 23:07
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My 2002 BMW E46 is running rough. I pulled some codes that showed misfires in cylinders #3 and #6, and then checked the easy plugs and coils. The coils look pretty old, maybe original. Plugs look oily. I swapped the coil on #2 and #3 and reset the codes. It started rough, smoothed out, and then got rough again. After a minute of so, it said there was a misfire on cylinder #1.  #1  #2  #3  A bit of research tells me that the oily plugs could be a bad head gasket, rings, or CCV valve. It seems like they are fouled enough that they might be causing the misfire. I'm no mechanic, but I was hoping I could throw a set of coils, boots, and plugs and fix the problem. Now I'm thinking I better have it towed to my shop. Am I on the right path here?
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Mar 15, 2016 01:00
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I am either have a conundrum or missing something obvious. Got a classic no start, no spark situation. 2005 Chrysler Pacifica. Died while driving at highway speeds and wouldn't restart. No engine codes. Starter engages and tries to turn it over but won't fire. Pulled a plug wire off and confirmed no spark. I can hear the fuel pump priming when key turned to on. I have pulled EVERY relay in the box and tested it completely with multimeter and batter and they all function perfectly. No fuses blown. I replaced the crank position sensor already because it was only $20. The battery has good charge and appears to hold just fine, although when we took it to autozone the tester said it was bad. The tech seemed to doubt his machine's diagnosis as well but who knows. Regardless, I've hooked up my truck's battery which has far more CCA and it sounds no better when trying to start. I have checked all the grounds I know of and they all seem intact and not corroded in any way. I even tried jumper cables to the battery neg terminal and various places like the engine block, exhaust mani, tranny, etc and it does no good. My current thought is a broken timing chain/belt leading to no compression, just haven't taken it apart enough to look at it and hoping to avoid it but I'm afraid it's all I've got left. This doesn't address the no spark issue unless there's some relay or something that prevents spark if it detects there's no compression? ChesterJT fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Mar 15, 2016 |
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Mar 15, 2016 01:23
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Maybe the spark is triggered by a cam position sensor, and if the belt broke its not turning. I would check compression or visually inspect the belt next.
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Mar 15, 2016 01:48
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In Canada city cars suffer from stop and go traffic, short trips, and infrequent use. Country cars suffer from a constant hail of paint destroying dirt, salt and water. So really you're picking your poison. hosed drivetrain or hosed body.
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Mar 15, 2016 06:28
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Anyone know what a good "priced to sell" number would be for a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sport size 255/35/19 with 6-7/32" depth left?
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Mar 15, 2016 18:47
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RapeWhistle posted:Anyone know what a good "priced to sell" number would be for a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sport size 255/35/19 with 6-7/32" depth left? On or off wheels? If on wheels, how rusty?
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Mar 15, 2016 20:20
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How do I shop for new wheels and tires? At what point does the diameter of the wheels start affecting things like ABS sensors and speedo readings? I want wider wheels that will fit my Golf but haven't a clue where to start 
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Mar 15, 2016 20:53
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scuz posted:How do I shop for new wheels and tires? At what point does the diameter of the wheels start affecting things like ABS sensors and speedo readings? I want wider wheels that will fit my Golf but haven't a clue where to start Anyway, as long as the overall diameter is the same, the speedo etc will remain as before. A common size that isn't quite bang on can save you a fair chunk without being a major issue as long as it's only a few percent out in diameter.
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Mar 15, 2016 21:10
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scuz posted:How do I shop for new wheels and tires? At what point does the diameter of the wheels start affecting things like ABS sensors and speedo readings? I want wider wheels that will fit my Golf but haven't a clue where to start This is a good site. Pop in your current tire size and you can see what some other options would do with your speedo. At the bottom you can change the wheel size. https://tiresize.com/calculator/ https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/
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Mar 15, 2016 21:26
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InitialDave posted:Why do you want to go wider? What are you running currently? Bovril Delight posted:This is a good site. Pop in your current tire size and you can see what some other options would do with your speedo. At the bottom you can change the wheel size.
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Mar 15, 2016 21:33
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Hey Thread, hope yall are all doing well. I have recently gotten involved in auto maintenance after not giving many shits about my car for a while. If its not too much trouble, I'd like to consult this thread from time to time to get an idea of what should be repaired/replaced, when it needs to be done, how to check for it being broken/fixed, and a normal price range. I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera, 3.8L Limited. Current tires: ALL except FRONT DRIVER are Continental ProContact (99T) P235/55 with FRONT DRIVER being a full spare loaded with a brand new Michelin Energy (R17 98V) P235/55 Radial XSE. It needs a new set of tires. As I know nothing about tires, how does one go through the process of getting the tires they need, not buying the tires they don't need, and not spending too much money. The money isnt really an issue, I just dont like being overcharged. I also wouldnt like to downgrade, as I understand that tires being the point of contact between the road and I, I shouldn't just wing it with regards to that point of contact. Is a tire store, either chain or "local", preferable to a dealer ship or big-box retailer? Also what about something like Sam's or Costco, assuming I could bum a membership to either? Online? For conveniences' sake, I'd like to buy and have them installed, aligned, and balanced at the same location, but if another route will save me 10% or more, then I'd be okay with the hassle. Or really anything significant. Thanks yall, I really hope I don't annoy too much and can learn something about my car, as well as how to best maintain it. This seems like the place to do such a thing
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Mar 15, 2016 21:45
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Asking stupid questions is why this thread exists! Your best bets as far as tire retailers go are Costco, Discount Tire, and TireRack.com. TireRack is great for researching different tires, finding out the correct sized tires for your car, and finding good tires in your price range. If you choose to buy through TireRack, they can ship tires to a local tire shop, who will install them for you. Whether this is cheaper than just going to Costco/Discount Tire is a tossup; Discount Tire is known for enthusiastically price-matching what you'll see online, and people love their service. I bought my most recent set through them, and was very pleased. Unless you live somewhere weird like Key West or Nunavut, you probably want a good all-season tire. The Continental ExtremeContact DWS receives high praise. I haven't used one personally, but from what I hear, it's probably pretty good. You probably have 17" wheels? Here's a link to good tire options for you: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...&sortCode=49900
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Mar 15, 2016 21:55
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Safety Dance posted:Asking stupid questions is why this thread exists! Going to go with the Kumho Sense - Gran Touring All Season http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...#RatingsReviews I went with the cheapo option, but anything new is going to be much more solid than what the vehicle is currently riding on. I need to get my spare a new set of rubber too, its a full wheel - not a donut - thats what I'm currently using as my front driver wheel. Is that bad btw? Should I leave that one in the trunk and get the new tire on the original wheel? Or does it not matter? Also, for the one that will be sittting in my trunk, is getting a USED tire an okay idea? Provided that I do not drive long on the spare, treating it essentially like a donut? Or is getting a set of five Kumho's the safer option? Thanks again, thread. This is a very nice thread, I feel more informed already. Just a price check, and I'll be done for the night -- what should I be paying per tire for installing them by the place theyre getting shipped tool
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Mar 16, 2016 02:24
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If your spare wheel is the same as your normal wheels and is in good shape, it's okay to use it as a regular wheel. If I have a full sized spare, I prefer to get five matching tires and rotate through all five when I rotate my tires. I do not know how much mounting and balancing will cost. It's highly variable based on location. In general, if you can find an independent tire place (the sketchier the better), you might be able to get it down to $20 per wheel. WalMart might do it for as cheap as $12, but only if you bring them the wheels and tires off the car.
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Mar 16, 2016 05:10
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When does rust become a serious problem in wheel wells? I'm looking at a cheap Toyota Camry as a beater, and it has rust/a little paint bubbling around the wheel wells, and some relatively bad rust on the lower portion of the inner wheel well. If I only need the car to last for two years, should I not bother fixing it, or is it a safety concern? Car in question: 
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Mar 16, 2016 05:13
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Sheet metal is almost never a major safety concern unless you're really scared of a tetanus shot. That picture is pretty bad and that thing is going to slowly dissolve, but if you're just looking for an A-to-B beater for a few years it's not a problem. The paint is bubbling because the metal beneath is all rust.
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Mar 16, 2016 05:15
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CharlieWhiskey posted:On or off wheels? off wheels, no rust.
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Mar 16, 2016 13:52
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