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anne frank fanfic
Oct 31, 2005

baquerd posted:

Maybe include spouse too, even if you're a DINK.

Lol, yeah my spouse whos working need life insurance

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

anne frank fanfic posted:

Lol, yeah my spouse whos working need life insurance

I used to carry it when I was married. She would have got a paid off house and had a bunch of money left to offset my lack of income. I don't think it is at all crazy. Especially for people who budget for both salaries.

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

Alhireth-Hotep posted:

And if you have no dependents, but your job buys unnecessary life insurance for you anyway as part of the benefits package... :shrug: Mine is going to my brother's family, which I told them, but I don't really want to tell him how absurdly much it's for. No matter how much we love each other, it would be a legitimate incentive for fratricide.

Why not leave it to charity and give decent people everywhere a reason to kill you?

VendaGoat
Nov 1, 2005

Dik Hz posted:

Why not leave it to charity and give decent people everywhere a reason to kill you?

HEY EVERYBODY! Kill me and you win a prize!

Monokeros deAstris
Nov 7, 2006
which means Magical Space Unicorn

Dik Hz posted:

Why not leave it to charity and give decent people everywhere a reason to kill you?

Probably will do this once their kid is a bit older and their financial situation is more stable.

VendaGoat
Nov 1, 2005
Hmmmmmm...

Do you have the wherewithal to become a Pinata person?

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

VendaGoat posted:

HEY EVERYBODY! Kill me and you win a prize!
Combine my original suggestion with VendaGoat's user name and post

VendaGoat
Nov 1, 2005

:stare:



....


My days are numbered.

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
I can drop ship milk goats to hungry children? What is the markup?

CannonFodder
Jan 26, 2001

Passion’s Wrench

Elephanthead posted:

I can drop ship milk goats to hungry children? What is the markup?

You must have missed the year GBS bought bees for the Christmas charity drive. So many bees.

polarbear_terrorist
Feb 23, 2007

Snow is my weakness
I recently quit my job without another job (a story for another thread but I will say that I'm looking into freelancing) and I'm debating on what to do with my SIMPLE IRA from my previous employer. I am thinking about rolling it over to a ROTH IRA.
I have about $8,500 in the account, and was with my employer for more than two years.
As well, I want to move the monies from American Funds to Vanguard; I have a ROTH with Vanguard, plus AF has been poo poo for me.

It seems from this article that rolling my SIMPLE into a ROTH won't be straightforward:
http://www.forbes.com/sites/josephs...n/#4bfa75f4468c

Any advice on converting SIMPLE IRAs into something better?
The self-employed 401K piqued my interest but I haven't completely decided if I want to go that route.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience
Alright, thanks for the advice everyone! It was very sound and not very goony and angry like the other subforums.

Another question then. My wife has access to a Roth401k plan now. We intend to file married but separate (for reasons!). This precludes us from using the regular Roth IRA vehicle without incurring a few hundred dollar penalty. It actually surprised me this year because I had contributed the full $5500 and then BOOM I had to pay a small penalty. You have a literal max of $0. Yeesh...

I am trying to figure out if a similar penalty exists with the Roth401k. Or can we basically use this as our Roth IRA alternative? Maybe even put "my" $5500 in there via excess contributions from her salary?

moana
Jun 18, 2005

one of the more intellectual satire communities on the web
I don't get why you have a max of zero - is your income so high that you're past the cap for a Roth when filing separately and that's why? I believe there's no similar cap on a Roth401k (https://www.irs.gov/Retirement-Plans/Roth-Comparison-Chart) so you should be fine contributing to that. Also are you sure that filing separately makes sense? It usually doesn't. I would maybe ask in the income tax megathread though.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
We had to file separately one year for reasons and IIRC, either of you can still contribute to a Roth 401k. The Roth IRA, however has a max income limit of $10k or something stupid low.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

moana posted:

I don't get why you have a max of zero - is your income so high that you're past the cap for a Roth when filing separately and that's why? I believe there's no similar cap on a Roth401k (https://www.irs.gov/Retirement-Plans/Roth-Comparison-Chart) so you should be fine contributing to that. Also are you sure that filing separately makes sense? It usually doesn't. I would maybe ask in the income tax megathread though.
* MFS, living together, and income >= $10k, you can contribute $0.
* MFS only makes sense when you're gaming IBR, from what I understand.

a cat
Aug 8, 2003

meow.
I need to choose a company to go with to start a Solo 401k for my company. I am the only employee and will never hire anyone for this company. I'm having a tough time evaluating my choices of which company to go with. I can't seem to find any good, neutral comparisons online. The things I care about are:
  • I'd like it to be low cost.
  • I want it to be self directed and have basically access to a full brokerage account. All the money's going to be in index funds, I just don't like the idea of limitations here.
  • Edit: actually after looking into this more, I guess there are plans that offer "full checkbook control" which I like the idea of. I'm comfortable with my ability to not squander my retirement, again most of this is going to be in index funds, but I like the idea of controlling my own bankroll if I want to do something with real estate later on or can put the relatively small amounts of money I already have in things like prosper.com in my retirement account. So I guess I'd take more control over lower costs to an extent.
  • I want to be able to take loans out against it. Seems like some plans offer this and some don't. I'm in my 20s and being able to have this option open until i retire seems like a major benefit. I understand it comes with penalties, and if the plans that offer this cost a little more I accept that.
I guess I'm considering Merrill Lynch, since I use BOA for everything already, but there seem to be some poor reviews of them.

Any recommendations?

a cat fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Mar 16, 2016

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

DOOP posted:

So my employer held a meeting today to go over the 401k program they're creating/sponsoring/initiating. From the limited research I've done, this 401k plan is, uh, not very good. Help me learn more, fellow goons. I work at a chemical plant with <50 employees near Philly



Sponsor: hj wealth management via American Funds

Type: Both normal and Roth 401ks are offered

Employer Match: Discretionary. Its not a per-paycheck match. At the end of the year, The Company will crunch the numbers and decide how much to match, or not match at all. So any money put in 2016 wouldn't theoretically be matched until 2017. This decisions is solely up to The Company and us labor has no way to know if they will match. This decision could be based on number of people enrolled, overall health of The Company, corporate profitability, etc. This seems like a reason to hve a match of 0% without The Company straight up telling us they wont match poo poo.

Expense Ratio: All available funds have expense ratios of ~1.5%. This seems ludicrously high

Eligibility: Must be an employee of The Company for 1 year (I'm at 6 months so far)

Loan against balance: Yes


The variable employer match and high expense ratios seem sketchy to me, but I do have 6 months to go before I'm eligible to contribute and can think things through. I also don't plan to stick around for too long, probably around another two years. I do have a Roth IRA via Vanguard that I contribute to, so I am saving something right now. Frankly, The Company is dying and the owner is the cheapest gently caress imaginable so some of this doesn't really surprise me and I'm expecting a 0% match. The last time The Company had an 401k plan, it was scrapped because no one participated, though they matched 1% or some other minuscule amount.

Is this 401k plan worth contributing to or should I stick with my IRA for now? FWIW my dad works at Vanguard and he had a near heart attack when he looked over the details

Old, but just wanted to weigh in here as someone who just went through all of this on the employer side of things. Basically the exact same situation, aside from me being the cheapest gently caress imaginable :haw:, and came out with a very similar plan (our ERs are more like 1-1.2% and we give immediate eligibility, but still).

The discretionary match is because if poo poo hits the fan, we would much rather be skipping retirement account matching than laying people off, which just happened in 2009. I don't know what your business is like, but we can't just go to VCs or investors or something to round up money when we're short. We have our line of credit and the money we take in from accounts, and if that runs out then we're hosed.

Those expense ratios are basically what you get for a $0 balance account. The ERs people talk about here usually aren't available with a total plan balance of less than $500k. I did look into Vanguard briefly, but they don't offer the administrative services that the more expensive plans do (like compliance testing and record keeping) and the idea of shoving that off onto our combined HR/payroll department that consists of one old lady was a non-starter. We'll probably look back into it once she has some experience with the paperwork.

Whether it's worth investing in or not is a separate question, but I just wanted to point out that this type of plan isn't necessarily your employer trying to gently caress you. It could very well be the only feasible option.

Michael Scott
Jan 3, 2010

by zen death robot

What does your company do/make?

a cat
Aug 8, 2003

meow.

Michael Scott posted:

What does your company do/make?

Software development. This is all under guidance of a CPA, this is just my first year as technically-an-employee and no longer able to use a SEP IRA.

a cat fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Mar 17, 2016

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

jjttjj posted:

Software development. Low six figures. This is all under guidance of a CPA, this is just my first year as technically-an-employee and no longer able to use a SEP IRA.
I wasn't aware that "technically an employee" can have their own Solo 401k, but I'm far from an expert. From a brief reading of IRS guidance, it's only for an S Corp owner or a 1099 employee.

Why can you have a Solo 401k but not a SEP IRA? The IRS guidance I read lumped them together.

Vanguard offers individual 401k's, but doesn't offer loans on them. They do offer loans in small plan 401k's but I think there are moderately more fees related to it. I assist with an individual 401k for my mother via Vanguard and it's both cheap and easy.

Michael Scott
Jan 3, 2010

by zen death robot

jjttjj posted:

Software development. Low six figures. This is all under guidance of a CPA, this is just my first year as technically-an-employee and no longer able to use a SEP IRA.

What kind of software? I'm trying to learn programming languages and I'd like to figure out what's in demand moving forward and what might put me in the best position to reach the level you're at. I'd take this to PMs but I don't have plat!

Any resources you'd recommend?

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience

SiGmA_X posted:

* MFS, living together, and income >= $10k, you can contribute $0.
* MFS only makes sense when you're gaming IBR, from what I understand.

Yes to both these points. So yeah, hence the question about Roth401k being permitted. Ideally I can find the tax code stating it. But maybe when the code says "401k" they mean regular and Roth401k...

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

French Canadian posted:

Yes to both these points. So yeah, hence the question about Roth401k being permitted. Ideally I can find the tax code stating it. But maybe when the code says "401k" they mean regular and Roth401k...
The IRS treats a 401k and Roth 401k as the same instrument, with the difference being pre/post tax. The IRA is separate.

https://www.irs.gov/Retirement-Plans/Roth-Comparison-Chart
Roth 401(k):
Income Limits: No income limitation to participate.

I'm pretty drat sure you're safe to max the Roth 401(k) while MFS. I see nothing stating otherwise.

SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Mar 17, 2016

Good-Natured Filth
Jun 8, 2008

Do you think I've got the goods Bubblegum? Cuz I am INTO this stuff!

Michael Scott posted:

What kind of software? I'm trying to learn programming languages and I'd like to figure out what's in demand moving forward and what might put me in the best position to reach the level you're at. I'd take this to PMs but I don't have plat!

Any resources you'd recommend?

This thread is probably more geared towards your question: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3376083

Bel Monte
Oct 9, 2012
I've realized I need to start investing in retirement. I haven't even started...properly anyway.

So here's a quick run down of my situation. I know nothing about retirement plans by the by.

I'm 30 this year.
I live at home with my family because I can save more money this way.
I currently work retail, earning about $1.1k a month (generously rounded down, it tends to be higher)
I've been through college and have an AA & BA. No debts or loans. Graphics designer, but had little luck in California's Valley, and I'm too far away from San Francisco to consider even working there, much less moving closer would hurt my finances for all the job offerings I've had.
I plan to move to Washington from California this year for personal growth and job opportunities. All else fails I can come back, but things look promising for my finances there (start up contacts), even under less than ideal circumstances.
At the moment, I have no retirement plan started. I have $22k in the bank.
I've come to terms with needing to work in my 70s to even have a decent retirement.


I hear some plans will evaporate based on company/stock market health, while with others the government may just not even be able to pay me.
My jobs are likely to change frequently, I doubt I'll be able to stick to just one company.
What should I do?

Honestly feeling like I've already hosed up. :(

Total Confusion
Oct 9, 2004

French Canadian posted:

Another question then. My wife has access to a Roth401k plan now. We intend to file married but separate (for reasons!). This precludes us from using the regular Roth IRA vehicle without incurring a few hundred dollar penalty. It actually surprised me this year because I had contributed the full $5500 and then BOOM I had to pay a small penalty. You have a literal max of $0. Yeesh...

I am trying to figure out if a similar penalty exists with the Roth401k. Or can we basically use this as our Roth IRA alternative? Maybe even put "my" $5500 in there via excess contributions from her salary?

Or contribute to a non-deductible Traditional IRA and then do a Roth conversion.

Gray Matter
Apr 20, 2009

There's something inside your head..

Bel Monte posted:

I've realized I need to start investing in retirement. I haven't even started...properly anyway.

So here's a quick run down of my situation. I know nothing about retirement plans by the by.

I'm 30 this year.
I live at home with my family because I can save more money this way.
I currently work retail, earning about $1.1k a month (generously rounded down, it tends to be higher)
I've been through college and have an AA & BA. No debts or loans. Graphics designer, but had little luck in California's Valley, and I'm too far away from San Francisco to consider even working there, much less moving closer would hurt my finances for all the job offerings I've had.
I plan to move to Washington from California this year for personal growth and job opportunities. All else fails I can come back, but things look promising for my finances there (start up contacts), even under less than ideal circumstances.
At the moment, I have no retirement plan started. I have $22k in the bank.
I've come to terms with needing to work in my 70s to even have a decent retirement.


I hear some plans will evaporate based on company/stock market health, while with others the government may just not even be able to pay me.
My jobs are likely to change frequently, I doubt I'll be able to stick to just one company.
What should I do?

Honestly feeling like I've already hosed up. :(
My recommendation: start a Roth IRA with Vanguard immediately, like before April 15th. Contribute $5,500 for year 2015 (you can only do this until April 15th), contribute another $5,500 for year 2016. This is assuming that the $11k you would have left in the bank would cover you for at least 6 months of living expenses. Put all those Vanguard monies in either the Target 2045 Retirement or Target 2055 Retirement fund depending on which year you expect to retire. Make that $5,500/year maximum contribution every year you can going forward from here, and if you end up working for an outfit with a 401k (you should do this), put as much as you can into that account too.

And make sure the pay from whatever job opportunity you have solidified before moving to Washington is going to outweigh the increase in your living expenses from not living with family.

Gray Matter fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Mar 18, 2016

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM

Gray Matter posted:

My recommendation: start a Roth IRA with Vanguard immediately, like before April 15th. Contribute $5,500 for year 2015 (you can only do this until April 15th), contribute another $5,500 for year 2016. This is assuming that the $11k you would have left in the bank would cover you for at least 6 months of living expenses. Put all those Vanguard monies in either the Target 2045 Retirement or Target 2055 Retirement fund depending on which year you expect to retire. Make that $5,500/year maximum contribution every year you can going forward from here, and if you end up working for an outfit with a 401k (you should do this), put as much as you can into that account too.

This is good advice if you think $11k is enough savings to make your move. Also you can always withdraw your contribution without any penalty, which you would only want to do in case of an emergency. But you should know that it's an option.

quote:

And make sure the pay from whatever job opportunity you have solidified before moving to Washington is going to outweigh the increase in your living expenses from not living with family.

I wouldn't phrase it that way, because they likely won't be able to save as much after the move as they were living with family. But that doesn't mean moving and starting a career isn't worth it. I took a paycut to move from waiting tables to working at a bank call center, but that job helped me get my foot in the door.

quote:

I hear some plans will evaporate based on company/stock market health, while with others the government may just not even be able to pay me.
My jobs are likely to change frequently, I doubt I'll be able to stick to just one company.
What should I do?

95% of retirement plans at private companies are 401ks, which give you a choice in how to invest your money. When you find a job you can post the options here and people will help you find a good plan. You also take the money in your 401k with you when you change jobs.
I don't know much about government plans, but my understanding is that only cities like Detroit have had to cut pensions. Someone else can jump in here.

The #1 thing that's holding you back in terms of retirement is your income. You need more income. Choosing a plan and saving is easy, if you have enough income. $1,100 a month isn't going to do much unless you plan on living at home for decades.

EugeneJ
Feb 5, 2012

by FactsAreUseless

Bel Monte posted:

I've realized I need to start investing in retirement. I haven't even started...properly anyway.

So here's a quick run down of my situation. I know nothing about retirement plans by the by.

I'm 30 this year.
I live at home with my family because I can save more money this way.
I currently work retail, earning about $1.1k a month (generously rounded down, it tends to be higher)
I've been through college and have an AA & BA. No debts or loans. Graphics designer, but had little luck in California's Valley, and I'm too far away from San Francisco to consider even working there, much less moving closer would hurt my finances for all the job offerings I've had.
I plan to move to Washington from California this year for personal growth and job opportunities. All else fails I can come back, but things look promising for my finances there (start up contacts), even under less than ideal circumstances.
At the moment, I have no retirement plan started. I have $22k in the bank.
I've come to terms with needing to work in my 70s to even have a decent retirement.


I hear some plans will evaporate based on company/stock market health, while with others the government may just not even be able to pay me.
My jobs are likely to change frequently, I doubt I'll be able to stick to just one company.
What should I do?

Honestly feeling like I've already hosed up. :(

Since you make so little, you can take advantage of the Savers Credit and get 50% of what you put into an IRA/Roth IRA back each year as a tax credit (up to $2500 max):

https://www.irs.gov/Retirement-Plans/Plan-Participant,-Employee/Retirement-Savings-Contributions-Savers-Credit

So if you put $5000 into an IRA this year, you'll get back $2500 of free money at tax time

crimedog
Apr 1, 2008

Yo, dog.
You dead, dog.

EugeneJ posted:

Since you make so little, you can take advantage of the Savers Credit and get 50% of what you put into an IRA/Roth IRA back each year as a tax credit (up to $2500 max):

https://www.irs.gov/Retirement-Plans/Plan-Participant,-Employee/Retirement-Savings-Contributions-Savers-Credit

So if you put $5000 into an IRA this year, you'll get back $2500 of free money at tax time

I believe it's 50% of your contribution up to $2000, so max $1000 back if Single and AGI under $18,250. Still a good deal of course.

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!
Also it's a non-refundable credit. In practice it's hard to actually get back the full $1000. It's still worth it, especially because he can afford to put half his savings into funding two IRA buys for 2015/2016 and that $11k should be worth about $350k when he's 70 (going by the napkin math method of doubling every 8 years on average).

Bel Monte, the thing is there's still plenty of time for you if you get on it now. Step one is funding those IRAs, step two is figuring out what you can do to step up your income(it sounds like you are, with the move to Washington). If you can max IRAs from here on out (will probably require you to boost your income by 50%, not counting any lifestyle inflation) you should be able to be pretty good by what people consider "normal" retirement age now. Not having a shitton of debt and actually having a sizable cash reserve puts you ahead of a lot of people.

If you do pump that 11k into the two IRA buys, you would have until April 15, 2018 to get together your 2017 contribution, so you'd have some time to move and get stabilized.

I started at 30 myself too(had zero saved for retirement, almost zero cash in the bank), and at 33 I consider myself to be in a pretty good position. I had more income at that point than you have right now, but I also had a massively underwater condo (50k underwater) and a fiancee with big credit card debt, and I didn't have your cash reserves. It's not going to happen overnight, but the fact you're taking it seriously now and not ten years from now is great.

Nail Rat fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Mar 18, 2016

Jerry Seinfeld
Mar 30, 2009
Probably a dumb question, but I'm new to this whole thing.

I have a basic Roth IRA with Vanguard using a Target Retirement fund. I know there's better ways to do it, but I want to keep it as passive as possible, and I've heard it's a decent fund. Anyways, simple question: Is it better to frontload the $5,500 yearly maximum into the fund as early as possible, or to split it up monthly? I realize the fund can go up and down frequently, so would it be a good idea to throw a bunch of money at it when it takes a significant negative dip? Again, I'm really new to this stuff, so sorry if this is obvious.

Blinky2099
May 27, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

bvoid posted:

Probably a dumb question, but I'm new to this whole thing.

I have a basic Roth IRA with Vanguard using a Target Retirement fund. I know there's better ways to do it, but I want to keep it as passive as possible, and I've heard it's a decent fund. Anyways, simple question: Is it better to frontload the $5,500 yearly maximum into the fund as early as possible, or to split it up monthly? I realize the fund can go up and down frequently, so would it be a good idea to throw a bunch of money at it when it takes a significant negative dip? Again, I'm really new to this stuff, so sorry if this is obvious.
Not dumb; it's commonly asked.

Front load: higher expected gains, on average, because you are putting the money in earlier. That additional $5k has 1-11 months more to grow. rather than depositing $500 a month.
Split up monthly throughout the year: better volatility reduction due to spreading out when you enter the market.

I would recommend front loading, but the choice is yours.

edit: if I wasn't clear, front load: higher expected gains at the cost of increased volatility. split up monthly: lower expected gains at the benefit of decreased volatility.

Blinky2099 fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Mar 18, 2016

My Q-Face
Jul 8, 2002

A dumb racist who need to kill themselves

Blinky2099 posted:

Split up monthly throughout the year: better volatility reduction due to spreading out when you enter the market.

Split up monthly allows dollar cost averaging, which over time could equal more shares for the same :10bux: if there's enough volatility.

Blinky2099
May 27, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

My Q-Face posted:

Split up monthly allows dollar cost averaging, which over time could equal more shares for the same :10bux: if there's enough volatility.
Yes, that's what I said. And the key is could equal more shares, but probably will equal fewer shares if we are expecting the market to go up on average, which is why we are investing in the first place.

Desuwa
Jun 2, 2011

I'm telling my mommy. That pubbie doesn't do video games right!
You get the advantages of DCA without actually doing it by just investing throughout the year as you get paid.

Investing your money as soon as you get it is the most optimal strategy. On a long enough timeframe (retirement timeframe) it has the highest expected returns, unless you can see the future.

The exception, I guess, is if you want to maximize your IRA contribution and can't do it in the three months at the beginning of the year, so you hold on to some the year before.

Good-Natured Filth
Jun 8, 2008

Do you think I've got the goods Bubblegum? Cuz I am INTO this stuff!

I, personally, have an auto-payment monthly that equates to $2400 into each of my and my wife's IRA's, and then I front-load the rest. I mostly do it this way so that if for some reason, I can't front-load one year, I still have $400 a month in my budget for retirement contributions that I know I need to pay. Mostly a mental thing, really, to force paying myself first.

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!
My wife and I just do $460 a month apiece into our IRAs because we're not far enough ahead on cash savings that we could plunk $11k in on January 1st. I anticipate that changing in the next couple years, however, and then we will max them Jan 1st from then on. Time in the market beats timing the market.

Michael Scott
Jan 3, 2010

by zen death robot
Quick couple questions. I have Schwab instead of Vanguard. :(

Schwab's 2055 target date fund has expenses of .86%... Vanguards' is .16%.

Question 1. I'm thinking it would be worth it to switch to Vanguard at some point down the line. Any disagreement?

Question 2. Currently I'm dumping everything into SWPPX, Schwab's S&P index fund. Should I switch that to a 2055 target fund at some point probably? I figured I would want close to 100% exposure to U.S. stocks at this point in my life.

Is Vanguard going to gently caress things up in the future with their court cases going on? Will they become defunct somehow or raise rates to be like Schwab? My worry is that Schwab might be more stable than Vanguard, but I am probably being silly.

http://www.cbsnews.com/news/vanguard-investors-your-fund-fees-could-quadruple/

CBS News posted:

The potential fallout, according to a tax expert who is working with Danon, is a bill from the IRS for back taxes of up to $34.6 billion and, for Vanguard investors, the specter of much higher fees. The typical expense ratio for Vanguard funds, which now stands at an ultralow 0.18 percent, could more than quadruple to as high as 0.82 percent, according to the tax expert's assessment.

It's goddamn weird and hard trying to predict 20 years and 30 years into the future to see what Vanguard will look like. If Vanguard's target date funds so obviously blow the whole industry out of the water in terms of expenses, why aren't they the dominant player in U.S. brokerages? Maybe institutional investors are worried about its future.

Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Mar 18, 2016

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I wouldn't be too worried about the vanguard situation.

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