|
Yeah, you're all correct probably. That's good perspective. I'll find a Yaris or Fit or something for the best price I can then.
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2016 22:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 02:33 |
|
|
Wife and I are getting a minivan after my car poo poo the bed. Her choice, not mine. Anyone have any experience with Toyota Siennas? I'm looking at one with 180k miles on it because it has everything but drat if that mileage doesn't scare me off. Carfax looks really good too, last owner was on point with the recommended maintenance. I just want to hear that I'll be able to ride that bitch out to like 250k+ miles. Soothe me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2016 22:56
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Yeah, you're all correct probably. That's good perspective. Screw all previous advice and get a Ford Raptor. MonkeyBot posted:Wife and I are getting a minivan after my car poo poo the bed. Her choice, not mine. Anyone have any experience with Toyota Siennas? I'm looking at one with 180k miles on it because it has everything but drat if that mileage doesn't scare me off. Carfax looks really good too, last owner was on point with the recommended maintenance. I just want to hear that I'll be able to ride that bitch out to like 250k+ miles. Soothe me. You too. For real though, my mom bought a Toyota Sienna in 1998. She drove it, I drove it, my brother drove it, and then she sold it to a local housepainter. It's still going, and I think it's pushing 200K miles. Solid, solid vehicle there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Screw all previous advice and get a Ford Raptor. This man is accustomed to the finer aspects of a Mercedes and no one has brought up the obvious choice of a G-Wagen? http://www.autoblog.com/2011/08/08/australian-outback-cripples-fleet-of-mercedes-g-wagons-during-pr/
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2016 23:24
|
|
|
I'm shocked this wasn't suggested. 
Uthor fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Mar 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2016 23:25
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:This is the only video I can find of the road to work. To me, it comes down to buying something disposable that's going to sip gas, vs something that's going to drink gas but run until California breaks off into the sea. If the ride is good enough in a Yaris or Fit, go that route but don't expect it to last. They're going for 5-6k around here, which is less than I expected.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2016 23:52
|
|
|
Found a couple of things. I'm looking over in SLC which is cheaper by far. Thoughts, please? http://www.westautosales.net/2007-Ford-F150/Used-Truck/Murray-UT/6918775/Details.aspx - seems like a good truck. Mileage okay yes/no? I know it will hold up on the dirt. http://www.petersonauto.com/w/listing/3374/0/1/MAZDA/0/car_Make/ASC/25 - really really like this Mazda http://www.kengarffhondaoforem.com/used/Honda/2012-Honda-Fit-Orem-988e3c3b0a0e0ae84c12d7154a711ccc.htm - this Fit seems good if a little pricey http://www.youngsubaru.com/used/Scion/2010-Scion-xD-Ogden-f6384efc0a0e0a6b3c8b741f118ff8a1.htm?searchDepth=3:3 - I know the Scion will be comfortable and super reliable.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 00:00
|
|
|
Uthor posted:I'm shocked this wasn't suggested. Buy a beater baja bug and just spend the difference on gas.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 00:39
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Yeah, you're all correct probably. That's good perspective. I vote for newer Corolla but take off the 15s and get 14" steelies and larger aspect ratio tires. It'll be comfy. it'll never break.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 00:56
|
|
|
MonkeyBot posted:Wife and I are getting a minivan after my car poo poo the bed. Her choice, not mine. Anyone have any experience with Toyota Siennas? I'm looking at one with 180k miles on it because it has everything but drat if that mileage doesn't scare me off. Carfax looks really good too, last owner was on point with the recommended maintenance. I just want to hear that I'll be able to ride that bitch out to like 250k+ miles. Soothe me. I have an 06 with 190k and no real issues,the power door has an intermittent issue and needs a new cable but everything else is works fine. It's def a bit dated with its lack of camera Bluetooth etc.. but still a great vehicle overall.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 01:23
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:This is the only video I can find of the road to work. Ford F150 Raptor with Ecoboost?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 01:33
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:I vote for newer Corolla but take off the 15s and get 14" steelies and larger aspect ratio tires. It'll be comfy. it'll never break. Corolla is a great car, yeah, but I hate sedans.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 01:34
|
|
|
Every scion that isn't an fr-s is basically a corolla
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 01:38
|
|
|
MonkeyBot posted:Wife and I are getting a minivan after my car poo poo the bed. Her choice, not mine. Anyone have any experience with Toyota Siennas? I'm looking at one with 180k miles on it because it has everything but drat if that mileage doesn't scare me off. Carfax looks really good too, last owner was on point with the recommended maintenance. I just want to hear that I'll be able to ride that bitch out to like 250k+ miles. Soothe me. The only thing I'd be concerned about would be rust, since it's spent its entire life in IL and WI. The drivetrain is basically from a V6 Camry, and as you saw, it looks like the original owner stayed on top of maintenance. It probably has at least another 180k left in it. If you wind up looking at Hondas, avoid anything with a V6 prior to 2005 or 2006 - they had major transmission issues prior to then.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 04:29
|
|
|
Looks like I'm gonna pick up that Mazda on Tuesday, assuming the plane flight don't kill me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 20:22
|
|
|
so, uh 2000 Toyota Camry LE, I4 engine 5SFE. I'm throwing codes P1130 and P1135 which apparently indicates the upstream O2 sensor needs to be replaced. From googling around there is 2 different types depending on whether you have a California emissions car or Federal emissions. I'm not sure which one to get, I googled around and the answer is "look at the sticker under the hood" but I guess I'm stupid and it still isn't clear to me.  Am I supposed to get the federal O2 sensor or the California air fuel ratio sensor?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 22:50
|
|
|
Well, it says it meets the California regs, so I'd imagine you need a "Cal-spec" sensor?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 22:53
|
|
|
Well, given that it's an I4 engine, I imagine the upstream sensor is pretty easy to spot just by popping the hood. And from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPZkXLQFeJs it looks like it is. So, I would just pop the hood and find the part number on what you've already got and go with that. (Probably the California one.)
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 22:54
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Well, given that it's an I4 engine, I imagine the upstream sensor is pretty easy to spot just by popping the hood. And from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPZkXLQFeJs it looks like it is. oh god duh I should have thought of that. I did look at it but it didn't occur to me to just check the part number, I'll have to check that out when I get a chance. Thanks! edit -   Looks like it's "Toyota 89467-33020" and "Denso 0091". Samuel L. ACKSYN fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Mar 19, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 23:13
|
|
|
This is in a 1995 Ford Mustang GT turns out I couldn't repair the threads in this guy and I need to replace it. People just call it a pinion flange, right?  What would be the best way to remove and replace this? Isn't there a tool that bolts to the flange to secure it in place so the whole flange won't turn as I'm turning that nut in the middle? Also, can someone explain pinion bearing preload better than this Chilton manual. And this would be the correct part to replace it, right? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-4851-c/applications/year/1995 ...and a final paranoia check. This is a Ford 8.8 rearend in this car, right? What would be a fool proof way to tell? 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 23:33
|
|
|
RCR has just the video for you! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uemr8hJYfr0
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 23:46
|
|
|
Samuel L. ACKSYN posted:
For future reference, the line that says "SFI, EGR, A/F S" was the one you were looking for. A/F S means it uses an air fuel ratio sensor. You can ignore the HO2S; in this case, it's referring to the secondary sensor, which is behind the catalytic converter (bank 1 sensor 2 = behind the cat, or downstream... bank 1 sensor 1 = before the cat, or upstream). Denso's website says the current replacement part is Denso 234-9010. Amazon has it for $83.95 as of right now. I'd personally go with either Denso or NTK. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Mar 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 06:35
|
|
|
My fiance has a black car and it doesnt drive good. Seriously though her 2004 subaru legacy 2.0i seems to misfire or stumble really badly at low revs. It has been getting worse over the last month. I was thinking of getting the plugs done but wish I could check them first. A friend with a turbo legacy of the same gen offered his sdvice to the tune of a can of Subaru Upper Cylinder Cleaner. Anyone know if this is a legitimately worthwhile product? Or any other suggestions. Ive done an Obd2 scan but there's no fault codes or even a cel.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 10:22
|
|
|
So the exhaust on my wife's car is falling apart. 2007 (2008?) Subaru Forester, 2.5 4cyl non-turbo, about 40-50k miles. The exhaust system looks like this: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5900157&cc=1433581&jsn=327 The pipe that leaves the resonator fell off...nearly a clean split about right after the resonator (but before the hanger). It happened while we were going to get my car from the shop, and they were able to throw a hose clamp on it to keep it from dangling for now. Probably won't hold for long, but long enough I'm sure. So the question is: Do we go to a muffler shop and see what they can do? Or do we go to a regular mechanic and have them just swap the whole thing? Is it worth having a muffler shop attempt to repair it, or would it cost less to just replace it outright? Seems like it's just a couple bolts. I can't imagine it'd be cheaper for someone to spend hours measuring, bending, and welding pipe. Follow-up: everything after the cat converter is pretty drat rusty, or at least the pipe is. The muffler itself is OK, but all the pipe is rusted all to hell. Given the age of the car, should we just replace both the resonator and muffler assemblies? I mean, the cost of parts is about $200 on Rock Auto to replace it all outright. Can't take more than 1 hour for the labor, unless I'm missing something. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Mar 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 17:16
|
|
|
The rock auto prices for the exhaust pieces are really reasonable but shipping might kill it. An exhaust shop should be able to fix it relatively cheap too. I'd start with a local muffler shop first.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 18:00
|
|
|
Seconding exhaust shop. I had to get an exhaust pipe lengthened(as in cutting the pipe and welding another section into it)...they charged $20 and the weld is perfect. If you can bodge it with a hose clamp, surely they can put it back together with a similar procedure.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 18:19
|
|
|
This isn't so much a question, just something I found interesting as a follow up to a question I asked a long time ago. I asked what was up with my transmission (4L80E/6.0 Vortec in a Suburban 2500) since it didn't seem like the engine was especially connected to the wheels, and with the way the RPM's were more connected to throttle input than speed and what gear it was in, it felt kinda like a CVT. The response here was that the transmission was hosed. But the truck still moved forward on command and didn't seem to have any power loss so I put off having it serviced. A few minutes ago I got curious about it again and sure enough, that's just a heavy duty part working as intended. It acts kinda like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3aXFIf7jIs ...but only with light to moderate throttle input. At WOT it's the usual RPM's rise linearly with speed and drop when it shifts gears.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 20:56
|
|
|
Friar Zucchini posted:This isn't so much a question, just something I found interesting as a follow up to a question I asked a long time ago. I asked what was up with my transmission (4L80E/6.0 Vortec in a Suburban 2500) since it didn't seem like the engine was especially connected to the wheels, and with the way the RPM's were more connected to throttle input than speed and what gear it was in, it felt kinda like a CVT. The response here was that the transmission was hosed. But the truck still moved forward on command and didn't seem to have any power loss so I put off having it serviced. A few minutes ago I got curious about it again and sure enough, that's just a heavy duty part working as intended. It acts kinda like this: Mine slips a ton (i.e. requires much more throttle input for the same motion output) when it's a couple quarts low on fluid  Which happens more often than it should, because I don't check it very often. Probably the TC not having enough fluid in it to engage properly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 21:17
|
|
|
What wheel locks does everyone recommend? My mcgard key already broke just using a 16" socket wrench so looking for something that doesn't appear to be keyed out of diecast hotwheels where it twisted off.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 23:31
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:What wheel locks does everyone recommend? My mcgard key already broke just using a 16" socket wrench so looking for something that doesn't appear to be keyed out of diecast hotwheels where it twisted off. Do you live in 1995? Stealing wheels in place is pretty two decades ago. If they want your car bad enough it's getting towed on a flat bed that has a stack of different mag mount signs behind the seats. And even without that, tools to remove lugs with wheel locks are everywhere and trivial to purchase. Don't park in shitholes. And if you do your wheels are the least of your problems. People will smash windows just to root around in your car and/or steal the stereo long before going through the time to steal wheels even without locks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 01:44
|
|
|
I go to New Orleans where you get shot for not having a $20 to rob from you. What about studded nuts like the vw phaeton has? Co-worker had her 4 suburban wheels stolen at her house. Since you can get powerful cordless impact it does happen.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 01:51
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:The rock auto prices for the exhaust pieces are really reasonable but shipping might kill it. An exhaust shop should be able to fix it relatively cheap too. I'd start with a local muffler shop first. Marauder Stig posted:Seconding exhaust shop. I had to get an exhaust pipe lengthened(as in cutting the pipe and welding another section into it)...they charged $20 and the weld is perfect. If you can bodge it with a hose clamp, surely they can put it back together with a similar procedure. Thanks guys, I had no idea it'd be that cheap to hack on pipe. I assumed the labor required would add up really fast. So what about rust? I have an appointment with a full service shop that does exhaust work and they very specifically asked if the pipe fell off due to rust...which, without looking at it up close, I'm 90% sure it did. They're not confident that they can rescue the resonator if it's all rusty, which would mean they'd have to replace the whole assembly anyhow. The reason I'm questioning this is that the Walker resonator/muffler kit from Rock Auto includes all the gaskets and mounting hardware for $191, and shipping is $25. The same parts are going for at least $220-$250 for the resonator/muffler alone at local parts stores, then add on all the mounting hardware and we're looking at minimum 275 BEFORE the shop's mark-up, plus an hour of labor. For just the resonator, we're probably looking at $130-$150 in parts BEFORE the shop marks it up, then another $40-$50 for labor...so for just a hair more, we can replace the whole drat thing by doing it ourselves. I'm really trying to talk myself out of doing this but I'm having a tough time. The only way we're get out cheap is if they can weld it back together, but I'm thinking the rust is going to be a deal breaker. If that's the case, it's almost as much money to replace just the resonator, which to me means I take a few hours of my time and do it myself for almost the same price. Maybe a better question is: How much rust is too much?
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 16:19
|
|
|
Just as a follow-up, I asked about Toyota Siennas a couple days ago. Drove the one I linked the carfax for and while it was a very nice XLE Limited for only $8k it also had a squeaking serpentine belt that I couldn't stand and one of the struts was going to need replacement. Went with a 2009 Chrysler Town & Country with 130k miles. I'm now a soccer mom.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 16:28
|
|
|
I just had a quick question for everyone please and thanks! I have a set of summer tires for my car I was hoping to change this weekend. I am entirely comfortable changing the tires myself but after they're changed should I take the car to a mechanic to have them aligned and balanced properly? I'm guessing this is a good idea, but will I save myself some money rather than just take the tires to a mechanic and have them do everything?
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 19:05
|
|
|
If your summer tires are already on wheels and have been balanced in the past, there's no reason you can't put them on yourself. Swapping tires shouldn't affect alignment. If you want to do it right, pick up a 1/2" torque wrench from Harbor Freight and torque your lug nuts properly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 19:29
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:If your summer tires are already on wheels and have been balanced in the past, there's no reason you can't put them on yourself. Swapping tires shouldn't affect alignment. I should have clarified they're already on summer rims. I would just need to swap out the winter rims and tires with the summer ones. When would it be appropriate to have them checked, it's a FWD car and although this is my first season with the summers I'm a little concerned about their longevity/wear and making sure to rotate them and balance them properly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 19:53
|
|
|
Is it safe to put an 08 Porsche Cayman (2850 lbs) on four of these while I remove all four wheels? Or do I need something beefier? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028JQYPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage And if so, how level does my driveway need to be? Ours is slightly slanted and I'd rather one of the jacks doesn't tip and ruin my life.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 19:57
|
|
|
IKillForPie posted:I should have clarified they're already on summer rims. I would just need to swap out the winter rims and tires with the summer ones. When would it be appropriate to have them checked, it's a FWD car and although this is my first season with the summers I'm a little concerned about their longevity/wear and making sure to rotate them and balance them properly. Tires get balanced when they get mounted on the wheel. Balancing basically involves spinning the tire/wheel combo very fast to look for heavy spots, then putting weights on the opposite side of the wheel to balance the heavy spots out. Unless you damage a wheel or knock off a wheel weight, there's no reason to balance a wheel/tire after mounting. If a wheel/tire goes out of balance, you'll feel vibrations at speed. Alignment should be checked whenever your manual says. Maybe every 10,000 miles or so, or more, or less, or if you feel the car pulling to one side. Rotation involves taking the wheels / tires off of the car and swapping them around to make sure that all of your tires wear evenly, generally front-to-back and side-to-side. Rotate your tires every 5000 miles or so.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 20:40
|
|
|
2014 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, v8 5.7L hemi. So my key fob died on me yesterday, I've replaced the battery, cleaned all the contacts, and made sure the 3 prongs below the battery still have good contact, and it's still not working. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it from here? e: The fob is required to start the truck, and it still starts up no problems. White Noise Marine fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Mar 21, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 22:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 02:33 |
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:Is it safe to put an 08 Porsche Cayman (2850 lbs) on four of these while I remove all four wheels? Or do I need something beefier? The weight will be fine but I don't think anybody will be able to tell you if the slant is too much without seeing it. It's probably fine, but it's tough to say without seeing it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 22:58
|
|
