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I use brushes from Secret Weapon Miniatures, and either GW spray primer, or Testors Medium Grey spray undercoat. Both work well.
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Mar 20, 2016 09:04
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GoodBee posted:Any particular place to buy brushes from? All LGS sell at best GW or P3. I could hit up a craft store or an art store. I think I'm looking for a natural bristle. I used to use a Windsor Newton. If you like P3 primer, you can just buy Duplicolor Sandable Auto Primer, it's the same stuff before the hobby company rebranding markup.
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Mar 20, 2016 09:13
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Yeast posted:GW spray primer Holy poo poo people actually pay 12 dollars a can for that poo poo? You can literally get the same results with cheap rusto 2X flat black primer as you can with GW.
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Mar 20, 2016 13:18
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Thanks! I think I'll check out a local art supply store today since I'm impatient. stabbington posted:If you like P3 primer, you can just buy Duplicolor Sandable Auto Primer, it's the same stuff before the hobby company rebranding markup. I might give this a shot. I'm continuing an army I started a while back so I'm sticking with black primer for my troops and such.
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Mar 20, 2016 17:52
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Mini photo nerds, I just got a Nikon D200 body from a friend and want to use it for minis. What's a good lens to buy that isn't too expensive and good for that?
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Mar 20, 2016 18:23
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Holy poo poo people actually pay 12 dollars a can for that poo poo? You can literally get the same results with cheap rusto 2X flat black primer as you can with GW. Come on, don't be disingenuous. That's not a fair comparison. 2x is not literally the same results. It's much better results! At least for the black primer- I didn't care for their white.
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Mar 20, 2016 18:30
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I loving hate corax white. I've got some friends that swear by it. It seems to leave an OK primer coat but expels clouds of chalky bullshit wherever it is sprayed. I've never seen it effect the actual primer coat though. It's weird as hell.
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Mar 20, 2016 18:33
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TTerrible posted:I loving hate corax white. I've got some friends that swear by it. It seems to leave an OK primer coat but expels clouds of chalky bullshit wherever it is sprayed. I've never seen it effect the actual primer coat though. It's weird as hell. Overspray with that poo poo is a real problem. It's not a bad paint otherwise, but you really do need to do it outdoors or in a spray booth.
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Mar 20, 2016 18:52
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Holy poo poo people actually pay 12 dollars a can for that poo poo? You can literally get the same results with cheap rusto 2X flat black primer as you can with GW. It's a rite of passage to buy the overpriced GW can once.
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Mar 20, 2016 19:17
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JoshTheStampede posted:Mini photo nerds, I just got a Nikon D200 body from a friend and want to use it for minis. What's a good lens to buy that isn't too expensive and good for that? nikon's 35mm 1.8 is great, and you can crop in for smaller work, or go the extreme and pickup a Macro lens, to get the fine details. Star Man posted:It's a rite of passage to buy the overpriced GW can once. I'm happy with the results, and it's part of the workflow for my tanks \_(ツ)_/¯
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Mar 20, 2016 21:03
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Star Man posted:It's a rite of passage to buy the overpriced GW can once. Reminds me of one of the FW painters at the Weekender. He was describing his painting process, showing a mini for each step. Then he gets to the last step and the mini is visibly hosed up and he just says "I used purity seal" with a sad look on his face
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Mar 20, 2016 21:08
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Mango Polo posted:Reminds me of one of the FW painters at the Weekender. He was describing his painting process, showing a mini for each step. Then he gets to the last step and the mini is visibly hosed up and he just says "I used purity seal" with a sad look on his face I've never used Purity Seal myself to know firsthand, but that poor son of a bitch.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:11
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Mango Polo posted:Reminds me of one of the FW painters at the Weekender. He was describing his painting process, showing a mini for each step. Then he gets to the last step and the mini is visibly hosed up and he just says "I used purity seal" with a sad look on his face It boggles the mind how many people I've talked to, online and in person, who thought the only solution for hosed up varnish was to strip the model and start over.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:21
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SRM posted:It boggles the mind how many people I've talked to, online and in person, who thought the only solution for hosed up varnish was to strip the model and start over. I assume you're referring to just respraying under better conditions?
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Mar 21, 2016 00:22
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Avenging Dentist posted:I assume you're referring to just respraying under better conditions? Spraying gloss solves the frost and then you can rematte with something else.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:25
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JoshTheStampede posted:Spraying gloss solves the frost and then you can rematte with something else. Oh right, Purity Seal is like a satin varnish, isn't it?
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Mar 21, 2016 00:26
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I think the only time I spray varnished was to test out hardware store stuff. Worked fine on a plastic mini, but left the bones mini I tried it on permanently tacky. Not sure how it's even possible for the material to affect it with a few layers of paint.  Spraycan varnish is strange voodoo. (Meanwhile I'm starting a second bottle of Vallejo matte varnish, and I've yet to gently caress up anything. Airbrushes are amazing.)
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Mar 21, 2016 00:28
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yeah, I might move to airbrush varnish. I've only had Dullcote gently caress up once and frost the side of a Chimera, but it was pretty heartbreaking. I've only heard good things about brush on.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:43
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I kind of want to get an airbrush, but I'd have nowhere to use it. Maybe when I move to a new place... Until then, I'll probably be ok with glosscote/dullcote and a healthy level of paranoia.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:49
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SRM posted:It boggles the mind how many people I've talked to, online and in person, who thought the only solution for hosed up varnish was to strip the model and start over. I honestly have not varnished a model in 10+ years and I don't quite know why anyone would. I use all my models constantly and have never had a problem with wear or scratching except on the occasional metal model. I'm not quite sure what the purpose would be unless your hands are filthy when touching your minis. Maybe I'm missing something? It seems like an awful lot of potential aggravation and even a complete rework for almost no benefit.
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Mar 21, 2016 01:48
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As SRM suggests, it doesn't require a complete rework, and indeed, many people varnish during painting as a way to save their progress and make it easy to roll back to the last time they varnished. Especially on metal figures, and when using less-durable paints like VMC, you can get minor damage to the paint just putting your guys in foam storage. If you play Age of Sigmar, be doubly sure to varnish so your guys don't get hosed up when you inevitably have to stack them on top of each other in the big mosh pit in the middle! 
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Mar 21, 2016 02:15
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I varnish gaming models more for peace of mind than actual belief my paint will rub off. That's said, some paint brands are more fragile than others and I use a lot of VMC which is known for it. It's not just for protection though, sometimes I have different parts of the model with different glossiness and I want to even it out across the model.
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Mar 21, 2016 02:18
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PierreTheMime posted:I honestly have not varnished a model in 10+ years and I don't quite know why anyone would. I use all my models constantly and have never had a problem with wear or scratching except on the occasional metal model. I'm not quite sure what the purpose would be unless your hands are filthy when touching your minis. Maybe I'm missing something? It seems like an awful lot of potential aggravation and even a complete rework for almost no benefit. I have a good number of chipped and tarnished Ultramarines and it breaks my heart every time I see them in the foam. As for a complete rework, just do gloss varnish then two coats of matte and you're done. It's super simple and the only risk is to your lungs from breathing it in!
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Mar 21, 2016 03:45
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Yeah, all metal army. And I also use it to seal pigments if I don't want the pigment fixer effect. Otherwise it'll literally rub off on contact.
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Mar 21, 2016 06:56
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It's important to remember that primer on plastics actually dissolves the surface at the microscopic level to get better adhesion (at least, I think). The solvents can't do that with metal (or resin, I think), so primer just won't stick quite as well to those. I'm sure it doesn't help that GW primers aren't actually primers; they're just paint.
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Mar 21, 2016 07:17
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Cross Post from the 40k thread. What I've been working on for the last 3 months.   
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Mar 21, 2016 09:00
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This guy was an awkward bastard to paint and looking at the picture now, I realise I forgot to glaze over the grey's on the "black" cloth like I did with the rest of the blacks. Umbra Legate from the 3rd Edition Combined Army Starter Set I'll probably go back and fix him up after I've painted the other guys.
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Mar 21, 2016 16:53
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Felime posted:I think the only time I spray varnished was to test out hardware store stuff. Worked fine on a plastic mini, but left the bones mini I tried it on permanently tacky. Not sure how it's even possible for the material to affect it with a few layers of paint. This is a Bonesium thing not a spray varnish thing per set. Bonesium reacts weirdly to the propellants and solvents in many spray paints and varnishes to they never QUITE dry. I have bones I painted two years ago which still stick to things. It's annoying.
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Mar 21, 2016 18:32
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PierreTheMime posted:I honestly have not varnished a model in 10+ years and I don't quite know why anyone would. I use all my models constantly and have never had a problem with wear or scratching except on the occasional metal model. I'm not quite sure what the purpose would be unless your hands are filthy when touching your minis. Maybe I'm missing something? It seems like an awful lot of potential aggravation and even a complete rework for almost no benefit. It's already been said, but VMC tends to chip easily + some varnishes facilitate a few techniques. Additionally: permanently sealing pigments and washes (oil and enamel).
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Mar 21, 2016 19:06
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thespaceinvader posted:This is a Bonesium thing not a spray varnish thing per set. Bonesium reacts weirdly to the propellants and solvents in many spray paints and varnishes to they never QUITE dry. I have bones I painted two years ago which still stick to things. It's annoying. I have found exactly one spraypaint which dries on bonesium. I don't know why this poo poo is aimed at newbies
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Mar 21, 2016 19:15
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signalnoise posted:I have found exactly one spraypaint which dries on bonesium. I don't know why this poo poo is aimed at newbies So are you going to reveal the Wu Tang secret or what?
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Mar 21, 2016 19:20
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Avenging Dentist posted:So are you going to reveal the Wu Tang secret or what? If I remember correctly, Montana Black (it's a line not a color). It's like 8 bucks a can at Dick Blick though, and VSP works fine if you use a second coat. If you're a prospective customer I wouldn't mind trying again and seeing what happens. I've got a lot of spraypaint.. I also am a fan of Montana varnishes. They dry quite fast and do all the protection I need.
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Mar 21, 2016 19:36
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I mean, I loving hate Bonesium so I dunno if I'd ever need this knowledge, but it could be a good way of having cheapo practice minis...
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Mar 21, 2016 20:03
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I've never needed to prime Bones.
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Mar 21, 2016 20:04
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Cat Face Joe posted:I've never needed to prime Bones. Reaper HD is the only paint I have that goes on it nicely without needing to prime. I dunno man I'm gonna go check again to see what paints work I suppose. I hate loving this technical level poo poo
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Mar 21, 2016 20:05
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signalnoise posted:Reaper HD is the only paint I have that goes on it nicely without needing to prime. I dunno man Weird. I've used Reaper, Vallejo, Army Painter, and lovely craft paint with no issues. I scrub them hard and don't water down the base coat much.
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Mar 21, 2016 20:08
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Your contestants: Of these three, 1 paint dried quickly, meaning it's the one that dries. The pink was INCREDIBLY sticky very quickly. The black was smooth and dry, but still sticky. Green dried quickly, but left a texture that leaves something to be desired.  Before anyone asks, yes I shook them 
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Mar 21, 2016 20:24
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Just paint them with Vallejo black acrylic surface primer. Works a treat!
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Mar 21, 2016 20:46
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signalnoise posted:I have found exactly one spraypaint which dries on bonesium. I don't know why this poo poo is aimed at newbies But you don't even need to prime them! Just paint and play man! ...assuming you don't water down your basecoat at all, and basically prime the model with paint first anyway! ...sometimes! ...also you don't have to clean them up or fix mold lines because the models look like dogshit anyway and the moldlines that are there are impossible to remove cleanly!
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Mar 21, 2016 20:51
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signalnoise posted:Before anyone asks, yes I shook them That owns. JoshTheStampede posted:But you don't even need to prime them! Just paint and play man! They're also $3.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:22
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