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Yeah I mean maybe I'm just the wrong audience for Bones, but getting models for ~50% off isn't that appealing to me when the result is a huge pain in the rear end to work with. It's not like I buy that many models (especially not from Reaper). I could see it being useful for (unpainted) D&D one-offs, but frankly, my time is more valuable than $4 or so a model.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:25
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Frobbe posted:Just paint them with Vallejo black acrylic surface primer. Works a treat! Or, if you HAVE to use a rattlecan primer, just use Krylon. I've never had it go sticky on Bonesium.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:33
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yeah I mean maybe I'm just the wrong audience for Bones, but getting models for ~50% off isn't that appealing to me when the result is a huge pain in the rear end to work with. It's not like I buy that many models (especially not from Reaper). I could see it being useful for (unpainted) D&D one-offs, but frankly, my time is more valuable than $4 or so a model. Probably and that's fine. Depending on the model though it's way more than 50% off. Plus it's allowed Reaper to create models that would be prohibitively expensive and/or not castable if they were cast in metal.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:39
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yeah I mean maybe I'm just the wrong audience for Bones, but getting models for ~50% off isn't that appealing to me when the result is a huge pain in the rear end to work with. It's not like I buy that many models (especially not from Reaper). I could see it being useful for (unpainted) D&D one-offs, but frankly, my time is more valuable than $4 or so a model. The savings get really noticeable when you get to big minis. The Reaper purple worm is like ~$30 and the Bones version is, IIRC, $3.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:51
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The savings get really noticeable when you get to big minis. The Reaper purple worm is like ~$30 and the Bones version is, IIRC, $3. The larger Bones models are also WAY nicer looking than the smaller ones.
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Mar 21, 2016 22:29
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Yeast posted:Cross Post from the 40k thread. These are awesome and I'm jealous at the speed you got them done!
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Mar 21, 2016 22:34
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richyp posted:This guy was an awkward bastard to paint and looking at the picture now, I realise I forgot to glaze over the grey's on the "black" cloth like I did with the rest of the blacks. Next one in the box and the last one for today 
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Mar 21, 2016 23:09
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signalnoise posted:I have found exactly one spraypaint which dries on bonesium. I don't know why this poo poo is aimed at newbies Army Painter Black works on Bonesium, from experience. Not tried their other colours on it.
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Mar 21, 2016 23:28
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The savings get really noticeable when you get to big minis. The Reaper purple worm is like ~$30 and the Bones version is, IIRC, $3. Big minis (kinda a contradiction really) are less of an issue to me because at least they usually don't have lots of bits that are too thin to be cast in Bonesium. I hate dealing with bending everyone's spears back into shape. Still, given the choice, I'd rather they use restic or something since that's easier to work with (which isn't saying much) and does not, to my knowledge, have issues with primer. I get that cost is one of the main goals for Bonesium, but I'd rather not sacrifice "pleasantness to work with" too much, especially not if it includes the possibility of royally loving up your mini at the end of the process. Speaking of which, I suppose I should figure out if my Blood Rage guys are touchy about the primer they take, since they're a similar material.
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Mar 22, 2016 00:40
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Zark the Damned posted:Army Painter Black works on Bonesium, from experience. Not tried their other colours on it. Brown and bone are fine too. Pretty sure all the Army Painter sprays work with Bones.
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Mar 22, 2016 01:50
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Avenging Dentist posted:Speaking of which, I suppose I should figure out if my Blood Rage guys are touchy about the primer they take, since they're a similar material. Report your findings, there's painting of Blood Rage minis somewhere in my future.
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Mar 22, 2016 01:52
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I'm away from my sweet Basius pads, don't have the money for pre-made bases, and can't waste greenstuff on trivial poo poo. So has anyone tried making basing flagstones out of small squares of cardboard?
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Mar 22, 2016 03:21
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theroachman posted:Report your findings, there's painting of Blood Rage minis somewhere in my future. The worst is that there are no sprues to test spray primer on.  Luckily they have expansions so I'll just test stuff out on some guys from whatever the cheapest expansion is (after consulting the internet at large, of course).
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Mar 22, 2016 03:56
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Double posting for a good reason. I thought folks would want to see John Motherfucking Blanche's weird space Skaven dudes (and other abominations): http://gothicpunk.tumblr.com/post/127549277520/some-of-blanches-latest-miniature-works
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Mar 22, 2016 06:41
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theroachman posted:Report your findings, there's painting of Blood Rage minis somewhere in my future. I painted one of the trolls as a test model and just base coated it in some reaper pure black instead of priming. Painted up fine but I made sure to clear coat it immediately to keep the paint from rubbing off. My janky camera isn't much help but here are some pics.   
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Mar 22, 2016 06:57
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Dude is clearly inspired by Hieronymus Bosch, which is one of the many reasons Blanche is awesome
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Mar 22, 2016 07:01
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 3 down 3 to go, noticed one of the Batroids is missing its head so time to test CB's customer service.
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Mar 22, 2016 15:46
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Avenging Dentist posted:The worst is that there are no sprues to test spray primer on. They should be fine, they're the same material as The CMON game with the squid men. I always confuse the name with Kings of War by Mantic. Speaking of, most of the Deadzone 2 minis will be the same material so if you can wait a week or two they'll be plenty of testimonials from backers.
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Mar 22, 2016 16:03
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I don't have a problem testing sprays on stuff. I should have my DZ2 stuff soon. Anyone know what the appropriate spray pattern should be for priming? I am assuming I should want a thin spray.
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Mar 22, 2016 16:18
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richyp posted:
they're rather strict with mispacks but very quick about fixing them.
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Mar 22, 2016 18:26
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Vulich the Subtle posted:as long as you kept your mispack tags you're golden. Yeah I took a picture of the complaint code tag and the bits of the model that weren't missing in front of the box. So my bases are covered which is more than can be said for the actual models because I'm lazy and too eager to move on to the next model half way through the current one.
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Mar 22, 2016 18:46
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I have finished my Blood Slaughterer. I have to say, it was a really fun kit to put together and paint. i really like how the machinery and tubing has skulls and skeletal arms intertwined in it. Overall I am really happy with how it turned out. My intention is to run it as a Maulerfiend.  
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Mar 23, 2016 03:19
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Now for some Grot Tanks! I painted these up quick, as I'm using them in a game in about 12 hours.      
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Mar 23, 2016 05:32
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This is a question I already know an answer to, but more answers would be good. For smoothing significant divots in flat surfaces, what do people use? I'm using ProCreate to fill in the bulk of it, and then Mr. Dissolved Putty over top to create an easily-sandable surface that I can get really smooth. Is there a better way? e: To elaborate, I find that ProCreate is sandable, but when you get down to a thin enough layer, it shreds itself just like Green Stuff. Hence the Mr. Dissolved Putty layer, which has no such limitation. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 07:38
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jadebullet posted:I have finished my Blood Slaughterer. I have to say, it was a really fun kit to put together and paint. i really like how the machinery and tubing has skulls and skeletal arms intertwined in it. Overall I am really happy with how it turned out. My intention is to run it as a Maulerfiend. Oooh; what model and scale is this?
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Mar 23, 2016 12:14
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It is the Forgeworld Blood Slaughterer of Khorne. It is about the size of a Maulerfiend, maybe a little smaller.
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Mar 23, 2016 12:18
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Macdeo Lurjtux posted:They should be fine, they're the same material as The CMON game with the squid men. I always confuse the name with Kings of War by Mantic.
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Mar 23, 2016 14:41
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richyp posted:Yeah I took a picture of the complaint code tag and the bits of the model that weren't missing in front of the box. So my bases are covered which is more than can be said for the actual models because I'm lazy and too eager to move on to the next model half way through the current one. I was missing the little horns on one of my Bolts. They got back to me the next day, and a package from Spain arrived at my door about a week later. The stamp probably weighed more than the actual part they sent me. The real sticking point with CB is they're really intensely anal about you following the rules regarding missing components. Apart from that, no complaints, even despite the language barrier created by me being a dumb American.
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Mar 23, 2016 15:11
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Avenging Dentist posted:This is a question I already know an answer to, but more answers would be good. For smoothing significant divots in flat surfaces, what do people use? I'm using ProCreate to fill in the bulk of it, and then Mr. Dissolved Putty over top to create an easily-sandable surface that I can get really smooth. Is there a better way? Milliput is my go to for this kind of thing. You can use it like clay or water it down to a slurry to fill smaller pits/cracks.
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Mar 23, 2016 19:13
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JoshTheStampede posted:Milliput is my go to for this kind of thing. You can use it like clay or water it down to a slurry to fill smaller pits/cracks. Can you advise which colour Milliput you use?
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Mar 23, 2016 20:09
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Not sure if Josh uses the same but for all model related stuff in the past I've found the Standard Yellow / Grey Milliput to be the go to modelling clay.
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Mar 23, 2016 20:11
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Yep, standard yellow/grey. I've never tried the superfine.
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Mar 23, 2016 20:19
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I might try some of that. I have a crapload of putties already, but there's no harm in too much variety. (So far, I have green stuff, brown stuff, ProCreate, Apoxie Sculpt, and Mr. Dissolved Putty.)
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Mar 23, 2016 20:27
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Avenging Dentist posted:I might try some of that. I have a crapload of putties already, but there's no harm in too much variety. (So far, I have green stuff, brown stuff, ProCreate, Apoxie Sculpt, and Mr. Dissolved Putty.) I've found it behaves more like a standard clay than greenstuff does and for fine details a mix of the two is probably best but for 99% of otherwork e.g. filling, basing and general putty-ness it's really useful. It's also a lot cheaper than GS too and works great as a filler/fixer-upper for non-miniature related activities too as it can be sanded.
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Mar 23, 2016 20:42
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Trying to get some clean straight cuts though some Gundam kit parts. What's a good type of wire/whatever saw to get?
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Mar 23, 2016 20:45
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An Angry Bug posted:Trying to get some clean straight cuts though some Gundam kit parts. What's a good type of wire/whatever saw to get? I have an xacto razor saw that I got from amazon that was under $10 that works pretty well. You will need files or sandpaper through as the edges always need to be cleaned up.
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Mar 23, 2016 21:11
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Would anyone know where I could get my hands on some wooden barrel scenery pieces? Decided to build myself a goal-token for my Brewers team, but can't really see any that'll be the right scale for Guild Ball.
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Mar 23, 2016 23:29
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What's Guild Ball's scale and what country/continent do you live in?
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Mar 23, 2016 23:31
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These any good? http://shop.microartstudio.com/large-wooden-barrels-2-p-796.html
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Mar 23, 2016 23:37
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BlackIronHeart posted:What's Guild Ball's scale and what country/continent do you live in? I'm pretty sure they're Heroic Scale, but don't hold me that. Zark the Damned posted:These any good? http://shop.microartstudio.com/large-wooden-barrels-2-p-796.html These look around the right scale. Cheers.
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Mar 23, 2016 23:44
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