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literally a fish posted:Could just be diff whine  BloodBag posted:Wheel bearing?
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Mar 20, 2016 19:49
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| # ? May 27, 2024 21:39 |
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My WRX used to have a pretty interesting fifth gear whine when it had the Group N tranny mount in it. The TS doesn't with the same mount, but it has lots of other sounds.
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Mar 20, 2016 23:15
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My trans and drivetrain was super loud when I had a solid pitch stop. But also the transfer gear and center diff bearings wear out sometimes.
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Mar 20, 2016 23:26
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So I was working controls at 100 Acre Wood this weekend. Values on older-gen Subarus were raised a bit by the carnage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jI43dGovuk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIes390Dph8 http://blackflag.jalopnik.com/perfect-reaction-to-huge-rally-hit-ow-my-vagina-1766170508 https://www.facebook.com/HardknockRally/videos/1011521598934514/  All drivers/teams OK, but some red crossed stages due to these.
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Mar 21, 2016 19:10
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Yea I saw those on facebook and twitter, nasty looking, but "they lived". At least the rally turned out better than last year we almost had our own off in that mess. I couldnt make it this time but maybe next year.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:00
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mekilljoydammit posted:Long in advance of doing either option, but just trying to plan out before I spend more money slowly accumulating parts (or not) And mostly I'm waiting for my first work-coffee to kick in so I can be productive. I've always liked doing the stroker builds, it really changes how the car drives. Really good option when a guy has spun a bearing and trashed the crank since you need a new one anyway. I wouldn't worry too much about durability issues as long as it's put together well. The 207 on the other hand will rev, and still make good low-mid range power, especially if you get one with a twin scroll turbo and avcs. Personally I would probably just go with the stroker because it is easier. Don't have to deal with adding stuff to the wiring harness and getting an exhaust to work etc. And you already have a cool block to use. CarForumPoster posted:I'm not really picky, but I am kinda cheap. Looking for something sub $500 and don't mind buying used. Only requirement is a dual exhaust and a tab more power throughout the RPM. There is a cheap one made by a company called Xforce. I don't know anything about them, but I can order them at a slight discount and it's supposed to bolt onto the 2015: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fits/2015-subaru-wrx-base-2-0/cat-back-exhaust-system/xfo-es-sw26-cbs-x-force-cat-back-exhaust Everything else is 800-1000.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:56
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XForce is actually an Australian company and they're well-renowned for making decent exhausts at reasonable prices They also make the Varex variable muffler system I have on my B4 
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Mar 22, 2016 00:00
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jamal posted:I've always liked doing the stroker builds, it really changes how the car drives. Really good option when a guy has spun a bearing and trashed the crank since you need a new one anyway. I wouldn't worry too much about durability issues as long as it's put together well. I figure with ported heads and cams (S2s or 199Js or something) a stroker could still rev pretty well, and while I'm going to test on a dead block first, I'm 99% sure I can cut the 20G block for rear thrust myself. When the EJ25s aren't doing anything with heads to take advantage of the extra 7.5mm of bore, I kinda don't see the point of dealing with the reduced combustion chamber efficiency. Plus, like I said, it would be nice to have a longblock I know the complete post-build history of.
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Mar 22, 2016 14:10
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Well, it will still rev to like 7500 or more no problem as long as you have heads and a turbo that will work there. I think the 207 has a stock redline of 8k?
jamal fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 18:03
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My attempts to contact 6starspeed have been unsuccessful. I went through NASIOC and found a few reports about six months ago of people never getting their turbos back and/or not hearing anything a few months after sending them in, so they are off the table now. I can't find any good reports of other rebuild places. Does anyone have any experience with Midwest turbo connection, xboost, or PRE for turbo rebuilds? Am I wasting my time trying to have this done? Should I just pony up for a new VF40/46 or get a VF52?
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Mar 22, 2016 18:19
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A friend of mine does rebuilds- company is called socal porting. Think his turnaround is fairly quick and he seems to do a good job.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:23
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jamal posted:A friend of mine does rebuilds- company is called socal porting. Think his turnaround is fairly quick and he seems to do a good job. Thanks! I'll get in contact with them. Looks like what I need and a referral from you is appreciated.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:54
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So I've decided to upgrade my 2015 WRX's head unit. It is a base so any double DIN will fit. Making wiring harnesses sucks so I figure I'd make a post here to maybe help someone in the future. It feels like a waste not sharing considering all of the wiring charts I made and stuff. Anyways I went with the Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS. Has great reviews and it seems like that particular line has gone a few generations now. I've started the wiring harness already using a breakout from Amazon. I also got a mounting kit for Subarus. I made these nifty little charts to help me wire it all up:   From there I also added a few wires to integrate the wheel control into it using an Axxess Interface ASWC-1 automatic steering wheel controller and these directions: http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/12741.pdf  I installed the steering wheel controller using this video that makes it seem very easy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VylLYDmqb0s The steering wheel control works exactly like the video I posted unless you wire it incorrectly. I have a trick for making this super easy. When I made the wire harness, I soldered in an extra ground wire and extended the two signal wires (green/black and green/orange). I used 22 gauge solid core wire for this. They plug right into the empty pin holes in the breakout plug. No soldering, no splicing wires. I just zipped tied them in so they don't go anywhere. This way, I can now return my sound system to stock if I ever needed to. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 02:45
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jamal posted:Well, it will still rev to like 7500 or more no problem as long as you have heads and a turbo that will work there. I think the 207 has a stock redline of 8k? Aus delivered 207 (might be 05 im not sure, 05 wrx) has its redline at 7 and i think rhe limiters around 7.5-8
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Mar 23, 2016 03:21
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um excuse me posted:So I've decided to upgrade my 2015 WRX's head unit. It is a base so any double DIN will fit. Making wiring harnesses sucks so I figure I'd make a post here to maybe help someone in the future. It feels like a waste not sharing considering all of the wiring charts I made and stuff. Anyways I went with the Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS. Has great reviews and it seems like that particular line has gone a few generations now. I've started the wiring harness already using a breakout from Amazon. I also got a mounting kit for Subarus. I made these nifty little charts to help me wire it all up: I plan on doing the same on my 15 and this is super helpful.
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Mar 23, 2016 03:25
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I'm glad I'm able to help. I went into it cold so gathering that info was kind of tedious. I wish I had this info when I started.
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Mar 23, 2016 03:40
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Stupid audio question: I've been thinking about replacing the head unit in my 2014 Outback. The bluetooth in the stock head unit is terrible and usually only connects to my phone as Media so I cannot receive phone calls. I've been looking at head units and they all seem to have an external mic. If I replace the head unit, will I have to use an external microphone or is there a way to use the built-in microphone?
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Mar 23, 2016 04:12
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Not as stupid as you think. I don't have a direct answer for that. As you can see in the charts above, the microphone is not in the 20 pin connector. There is a larger connector (28 pins I think?) that will contain the mic signal and other stuff like the auxillary display, back up camera and OEM bluetooth wires. You will need to find a diagram of that plug, then figure out if the microphone is a basic 2 wire unboosted channel or if it's pre-amplified (3 or more wires). The mic that goes to my head unit is not pre-amplified so if the OEM one is configured the same way, you should just be able to splice in a jack and use it for your aftermarket stereo. Edit: Save you some time, I found more or less the information you need on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36208128&postcount=9 There is a pre-amp somewhere, but it looks like it isn't built into the mic thankfully. Pin 5 and 19 are the ones you want to splice into. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 04:31
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I'm already lost reading that but don't stop posting. This is one of things I need to do in my 15 too as the stock system was my only disappointment in the car initially. Thankfully I don't have much off a commute and surprisingly streaming over Bluetooth from my phone gave a nice boost in sound quality versus the aux cable which was the opposite in my mazdaspeed. Are you keeping the stock speakers?
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Mar 23, 2016 04:48
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I guess I'll be tearing apart the center console again this week. I gotta get in there to hook up USB and AUX anyways. I'll take some pics and make some more diagrams. I know exactly the quality jump between AUX and bluetooth you are talking about, and a head unit is probably an order of magnitude better. My speakers are stock and for the life of me, I can't justify upgrading them. The jump in audio quality is that good. I already had a subwoofer wired in previously to the head unit upgrade, though, so YMMV. The only reason I would upgrade the speakers is if I decide to sound deaden the doors in which I would be 50% of the way there anyways.
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Mar 23, 2016 04:53
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um excuse me posted:Not as stupid as you think. I don't have a direct answer for that. As you can see in the charts above, the microphone is not in the 20 pin connector. There is a larger connector (28 pins I think?) that will contain the mic signal and other stuff like the auxillary display, back up camera and OEM bluetooth wires. You will need to find a diagram of that plug, then figure out if the microphone is a basic 2 wire unboosted channel or if it's pre-amplified (3 or more wires). The mic that goes to my head unit is not pre-amplified so if the OEM one is configured the same way, you should just be able to splice in a jack and use it for your aftermarket stereo. Thanks for finding that post. I'm not sure if that matches my head unit. I have the base model and the diagrams are for the Premium HU which I don't have.
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Mar 23, 2016 04:55
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The 28 pin connector is present in my base WRX. It's just completely unplugged after the upgrade. I do not have the navigation unit. So I'm going to hazard a guess and say that any Subaru with built in bluetooth or back up display will have the 28 pin connector. Edit: I am incorrect. The connector I was thinking of was the 40 pin used for climate control. The secondary accessory present in my car is a 16 pin connector. I haven't found any pin maps, but I did figure out where AUX was. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Mar 24, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 05:05
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Sanity check. After talking with a friend running E85 in his turbo Miata, I want to do it in my 04 WRX. Thinking of doing that and a 02-03 ECU so I can run carberry. How loving stupid is this?
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Mar 23, 2016 14:05
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Do you REALLY want to drive around with a hundred liters of corn juice just incase you happen to run out not near a petrol station?
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Mar 23, 2016 14:56
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Carberry can do flex fuel now, so that aspect isn't automatically stupid. I personally am leery of the idea of building for E85 with a car running the 5-speed though - more boost, more torque, more risks of breakage. But that seems to depend how people drive too.
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Mar 23, 2016 15:14
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Either stock up on trannies or throw in a 6 speed if you're worried. For me, I chickened out and got rid of the car before making power with it because it wasn't worth it (to me) to drop that coin on a 6 speed.
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Mar 23, 2016 16:33
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Looks like the 2017 Impreza will finally have CarPlay.
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Mar 23, 2016 20:53
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Looks like the 2017 Impreza will finally have CarPlay. Thank gently caress I have no interest in a new one. Enough with the crap in cars already!
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Mar 23, 2016 21:41
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Thank gently caress I have no interest in a new one. Enough with the crap in cars already! If you don't like crap in cars you should be cheering for Car Play and Android Auto since they remove the stuff from the car and the phone is doing all the work.
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Mar 23, 2016 22:52
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um excuse me posted:So I've decided to upgrade my 2015 WRX's head unit. It is a base so any double DIN will fit. Making wiring harnesses sucks so I figure I'd make a post here to maybe help someone in the future. It feels like a waste not sharing considering all of the wiring charts I made and stuff. Anyways I went with the Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS. Has great reviews and it seems like that particular line has gone a few generations now. I've started the wiring harness already using a breakout from Amazon. I also got a mounting kit for Subarus. I made these nifty little charts to help me wire it all up: Quoting this for continuity. So I spent all day tearing apart my center console, tracing wires, and making harnesses. I am going to share what I've discovered. My goals were to make USB and the AUX port work with their OEM harnesses, plugs, and locations. I also wanted the modifications be completely backward compatible so I can restore the original unit if I were to sell the car. Long story short, I achieved everything I wanted. I have a full album of images here: http://imgur.com/a/f8KFy But I'll try to keep to the important details. First up was figuring out where all of the pins are that I need to add breakouts to. It was quite the ordeal. I found out that the USB port has it's own connector. It looks like this:  I prayed it might have the standard USB wire color. Nope! Black, red, purple and orange. Luckily red and black were +5V and ground respectively, which made sense. The signal wires were another issue. I basically tried wiring it one way to see if it works, found out it was wrong, then switched the wires. You don't have to do this, because I did it for you!  And the wiring diagram:  And the final assembly:  I more or less did the same thing with the auxillary plug. Made a breakout harness for it and wired it up. Diagram below:  
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Mar 24, 2016 |
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Mar 24, 2016 03:02
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um excuse me posted:Quoting this for continuity. Thanks for these posts.
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Mar 24, 2016 03:05
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No problem. Glad to help. It's frustrating when you can't find the info you need.
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Mar 24, 2016 |
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Mar 24, 2016 03:16
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Gonna throw a quick ask in here before I commit to a path. I have a 2005 legacy GT limited, that could use a new turbo and at the same time needs 75k maintenance work and a new engine gasket. I let the car sit for a long time since my dealership wanted 4-5k just to start fixing things and I can easily take a train into work. Fast forward to now, and I'm shopping for a used car and want to trade this in, but I want to see if it's worth getting stuff fixed or trading it in at a subie dealership and just be done with it. Is this something where the dealer is raping me on labor costs and a good local mechanic can get going or is this just a problem not worth it. I figure I can get 3k out of this vs $x for putting in repairs. Certainly a dealership would be able to fix it on the cheap internally. The car is very sound otherwise.
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Mar 24, 2016 12:55
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Dealers are always more expensive. What "engine gasket" does it need? Head gaskets?
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Mar 24, 2016 14:38
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Couple of pages back I posted that my new-to-me 26k mile STi developed rod knock, and they were denying me warranty because I didn't have every oil filter receipt. Well, I have a conclusion. I paid for a teardown and inspection. Subaru of America determined the proximate cause of the spun bearing was oil starvation and this is not covered under warranty. They will good-will 75% of the repair cost, which I have no option but to take. They want to replace the shortblock, every gasket, mostly everything that touches oil EXCEPT for the oil pump. Shouldn't this be replaced too? How else would a bearing spin other than a lubrication failure? These engines are notorious, I wonder what a warrant covered way to spin a bearing is. I'm also unsure if the rest of my powertrain warranty is still valid for the engine since this is a non warranty repair. Optimally I'd like keep this for the next bullshit that occurs.
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Mar 24, 2016 15:17
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Get a lawyer. Load of horseshit. Oil starvation is a known manufacturing problem with these engines which by definition is covered under warranty. The onus is on them to prove that you caused the problem, not vice versa. A bearing being starved for oil in an engine known for starving bearings of oil does not prove poo poo. Should have gotten a lawyer a couple pages back  Otherwise, replacing the shortblock would generally come with a replacement oil pump, no? And if not, yeah, you should definitely be insisting on a new one.
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Mar 24, 2016 23:52
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I'd definitely fight that as well. Last time I checked oil starvation is not something that falls under operator error unless you did something to the engine to cause that.
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Mar 25, 2016 00:07
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Larrymer posted:Dealers are always more expensive. What "engine gasket" does it need? Head gaskets? Unknown, I'm going to screw up the terminology but it's something done during the major maintinence for my milage. I am getting. Some oil leak during normal driving. Reading a few pages back from m reminded of the classic 05 legacy blown turbo as I had apparent oil starvation and now have some turbo shaft play. Kbb says I'll only get 6800 on a good day, so 2-3k in this condition is a decent deal for me. I'm only looking at a used car for 7k or so.
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Mar 25, 2016 00:45
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literally a fish posted:Get a lawyer. Load of horseshit. Oil starvation is a known manufacturing problem with these engines which by definition is covered under warranty. The problem is that if subaru is covering 75% of $4000, he's paying out $1000. A lawyers probably going to cost more than that.
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Mar 25, 2016 01:22
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Parts and labor quote is just shy of $10,000. I did contact a lawyer shortly after this started and they basically advised me to push this as far as I can, then start litigating when I hit a wall. I'm going to take the 2.5k hit now, get the car road-worthy, and afterwards see if I want to continue talking to a lawyer or what. I want this nightmare to be over. The service writer did say he thinks the shortblock comes with a new pump, but he is checking on this for me. Should the turbo be on the replacement list? They're flushing all of the lines and turbo, but not replacing it. I haven't actually heard from SoA yet, just that the dealer says SoA will cover 75%. When they call me I'm going to press how they proved it was my fault.
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Mar 25, 2016 01:39
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