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some texas redneck posted:Most of the power of the 4 cylinder (if it hasn't burnt a valve or popped a head gasket yet), with the MPG of a V8! Also breaking off exhaust studs. Also gumming up like mad. Also the worst timing belt idler ever designed in the history of man.
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Mar 24, 2016 07:53
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... that's the idler that doubles as an upper radiator hose connection, isn't it? Just guessing on this, but it makes sense given the thoughtfulness of the rest of the engine design.
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Mar 24, 2016 08:28
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I have an 88 IROC in basically "more than excellent but not concours" condition. Right now I have it minimally insured because I didn't drive it much over the past year. But, spring is here and it's southern California, so I want to take it out lots more. So I'm looking into classic car insurance, and I'm confused as gently caress. There's offerings from everyone from AAA to Hagerty (Seeming to be the most dominant in the market) - At last appraisal the car was valued at $13,800. Now that I've knocked the remaining minor issues (Leaking t-top, PDR for door dings, and some minor paint correction, factory stereo rebuilt), and gotten absolutely everything correct and functional, I want to make sure it is insured for what it is worth. Does anyone have any experience in this? I could use some protips and recommendations. Progressive is my base policy carrier at the moment, if that helps. I assume classic car insurance is a policy in addition to my base policy, correct? EDIT: For instance, many of the pages I look at specify that my car must be used for very limited applications, and mileage is restricted. I would actually like to drive and enjoy my car as much as possible, but have it insured for what it's worth. Clockwork Sputnik fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Mar 24, 2016 |
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Mar 24, 2016 19:44
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I think what you want is "stated value" insurance. As far as I know, that's the only way to have it both ways (i.e., insurance for more than KBB but be able to drive it).
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Mar 24, 2016 23:43
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some texas redneck posted:... that's the idler that doubles as an upper radiator hose connection, isn't it? It sure is  At least when they went to the DOHC version they fixed basically everything that was wrong with that engine including that idler.
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Mar 25, 2016 00:05
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White Noise Marine posted:Battery replacement and resyncing worked on the other key fob, thanks for the help guys. Pleased to hear it. Now open up the first fob and refit the battery that you inserted backwards.
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Mar 25, 2016 01:37
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:I have an 88 IROC in basically "more than excellent but not concours" condition. Right now I have it minimally insured because I didn't drive it much over the past year. But, spring is here and it's southern California, so I want to take it out lots more. So I'm looking into classic car insurance, and I'm confused as gently caress. There's offerings from everyone from AAA to Hagerty (Seeming to be the most dominant in the market) - At last appraisal the car was valued at $13,800. Now that I've knocked the remaining minor issues (Leaking t-top, PDR for door dings, and some minor paint correction, factory stereo rebuilt), and gotten absolutely everything correct and functional, I want to make sure it is insured for what it is worth. I went through this with my Allante. Hagerty had the least restrictions on driving and reasonable rates, but were ridiculously anal about how and where it would be parked. As in, no garage, off a busy street, and garage does not face street = no policy. They want pictures of how/where it will be stored. If they no likey, no policy. And Hagerty were the easiest to deal with  I would also check with an insurance broker for claimed value insurance. They may be easier to deal with.
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Mar 25, 2016 02:20
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It makes sense if you think about it. Classic car owners (Cobra replicas excluded, which Hagerty won't insure) are likely to drive their cars in a way to avoid as many on-road crashes as possible. However, a lot of them sit a lot, and they're easy to steal. Thus, keep it locked down.
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Mar 25, 2016 03:10
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This is the dumbest of dumb car questions, but: when and why did they stop putting that strip of blue tint across the top of windshields?
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Mar 25, 2016 07:41
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They stopped? Our 2015 Transit ambulances have them.
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Mar 25, 2016 10:22
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They didn't, but it's always been optional. Or more precisely it hasn't ever been on every car.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:59
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I think the more relevant answer is that they're a lot less conspicuous these days, as opposed to the highly reflective blue tint you saw when they first started doing it. It's as common as ever, just looks better from the outside.
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Mar 25, 2016 18:32
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:I have an 88 IROC in basically "more than excellent but not concours" condition. Right now I have it minimally insured because I didn't drive it much over the past year. But, spring is here and it's southern California, so I want to take it out lots more. So I'm looking into classic car insurance, and I'm confused as gently caress. There's offerings from everyone from AAA to Hagerty (Seeming to be the most dominant in the market) - At last appraisal the car was valued at $13,800. Now that I've knocked the remaining minor issues (Leaking t-top, PDR for door dings, and some minor paint correction, factory stereo rebuilt), and gotten absolutely everything correct and functional, I want to make sure it is insured for what it is worth. Call Grundy. I have them for my old trucks. I called them and they were nice as could be and all they asked for was a picture of the garages I was keeping them in an a picture of each truck. One is restored and one is a barn find with much patina. They asked what I wanted for the agreed value on each and they gave me what I wanted, no questions asked. Love Grundy. Hagerty had horrible customer service so I never even got to the next level with them.
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Mar 25, 2016 19:08
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Enourmo posted:I think the more relevant answer is that they're a lot less conspicuous these days, as opposed to the highly reflective blue tint you saw when they first started doing it. The police version of the newer Ford Explorer still has it, or at least a lot of them do, and when they put red flashing lights in the headliner behind that blue tint at the top it totally kills them and they end up really dim. If they're using red and blue for police or whatever, they might as well just be using all blue.
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Mar 25, 2016 22:00
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Friar Zucchini posted:The police version of the newer Ford Explorer still has it, or at least a lot of them do, and when they put red flashing lights in the headliner behind that blue tint at the top it totally kills them and they end up really dim. If they're using red and blue for police or whatever, they might as well just be using all blue. We ordered ours without it for that exact reason. It's an option. You hardly need it in the new explorers......there's so much roof, A pillar and dash in the way there's barely any windshield left. What little of it there is ends up like 4 miles away from you.
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Mar 25, 2016 22:09
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Fart Pipe posted:Call Grundy. I have them for my old trucks. I called them and they were nice as could be and all they asked for was a picture of the garages I was keeping them in an a picture of each truck. One is restored and one is a barn find with much patina. They asked what I wanted for the agreed value on each and they gave me what I wanted, no questions asked. Love Grundy. That's really weird - I had the exact inverse experience. Grundy was the most expensive and took forever to come up with a quote.
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Mar 25, 2016 23:04
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blk posted:Should I buy this? Don't gently caress around with this. 22RE 2nd Gen or buy a 3rd gen (4- or 6-cylinder). Full-stop.
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Mar 26, 2016 03:55
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2000 dodge durango with 5.9 Customer came in to get a starter, replaced it in a parking lot, found out it was a heavily corroded battery cable causing her non start issue, cleaned it and the vehicle started without hesitation. Drove to our store to return the core and the vehicle wouldn't start upon trying to leave. You could hear the starter solenoid click very clearly once, then nothing. Battery read at 12.75-12.89 volts with the vehicle turned off and would drop to 12.3-12.5 upon trying to start. I couldn't find any obvious issues and the only thing I could think of was a wire falling off the starter or the starter somehow poo poo itself after a single start. Anyone got a guess?
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Mar 26, 2016 04:40
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Refurb starters aren't always perfect or some bushing alignment issue.
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Mar 26, 2016 04:58
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Goober Peas posted:That's really weird - I had the exact inverse experience. Grundy was the most expensive and took forever to come up with a quote. Yeah, when I first got classic coverage on my truck, I was just short of 25 and Grundy did all but tell me to go gently caress myself. Hagerty would at least charge me a higher rate, which was still lower than the stated value plan I had on it already, with better coverage.
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Mar 26, 2016 05:06
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Yeah, I'm willing to accept its that, but it would be notable for dying after a single perfect start.  I'd put more bets on something being misaligned, but wouldn't I still see a voltage drop as the starter motor pressed the gear into the flywheel?
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Mar 26, 2016 05:13
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My mom has a 2008 Mazda CX 7. She was at the parking lot when the car wouldn't start. The radio and everything would go on but when the key turned literally nothing happened, not even a sound. We got the car jumped and it still wouldn't start. Eventually it just started randomly. Due to this we strongly suspect that it has to do with the anti-theft safety lock from the key as it is a known to cause such issues. Is there a way I can reprogram it from my house?
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Mar 26, 2016 05:21
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Does anyone have any recommendations for cleaning wheels? There's a cornucopia of options on Amazon. The Meguiar's (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G9524-Rims-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B0009IQXM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459004540&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+dust+cleaner) seems fairly popular. There's also the BDP from DipYourCar (http://www.amazon.com/DipYourCar-Brake-Dust-Pro%C2%AE/dp/B00EKS5EN6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459004540&sr=8-4&keywords=brake+dust+cleaner), and some other ones with strong reviews as well. I need more than a cosmetic clean; I need to make sure they're clean. I plan on dipping them. \ This is the current state of the wheel:  I'd be curious to hear about recommendations for cleaning calipers too, since if I'm pulling the wheels off to paint them, I may do the calipers too.
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Mar 26, 2016 16:13
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for cleaning wheels? There's a cornucopia of options on Amazon. The Meguiar's (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G9524-Rims-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B0009IQXM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459004540&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+dust+cleaner) seems fairly popular. There's also the BDP from DipYourCar (http://www.amazon.com/DipYourCar-Brake-Dust-Pro%C2%AE/dp/B00EKS5EN6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459004540&sr=8-4&keywords=brake+dust+cleaner), and some other ones with strong reviews as well. If your wheels are lacquered, this stuff is amazing: http://www.wonderwheels.com/products/wheel-care/clean/alloy-wheel-cleaning-kit http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/63751/wonder-wheels-super-alloy-wheel-cleaner I brush it on before a jetwash and the wheels are instantly brand new. It is very aggressive though.
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Mar 26, 2016 16:40
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spog posted:If your wheels are lacquered, this stuff is amazing: How does one determine their type of wheel? I know it's not chrome, but I'm not comfortable calling it as something specific.
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Mar 26, 2016 17:17
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Is it bad to hang a plastic bag off of the gear shift for a trash bag? On a stick shift.
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Mar 26, 2016 18:00
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Constant pressure on the stick when it's not being actuated is a bad practice.
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Mar 26, 2016 18:15
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That seems really inconvenient as well.
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Mar 26, 2016 18:31
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That's what I figured. I just couldn't think of anywhere else to put it. Maybe I can hang it off the passenger's seat, behind the seat.
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Mar 26, 2016 19:09
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Bovril Delight posted:That seems really inconvenient as well. That's what the floorboard is for.
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Mar 26, 2016 19:12
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Get a command hook and stick it on the dash somewhere if ya want to be fansy and not just throw trash out the window and make John red corn cry.. what are ya Canadian or something?
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Mar 26, 2016 20:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:That's what I figured. I just couldn't think of anywhere else to put it. Maybe I can hang it off the passenger's seat, behind the seat. They make something just for that. High Road TrashStash Leakproof Car Litter Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FREAGO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_acU9wbRGQKT9G The only trash in my car is old receipts and those I just ball up and toss into the passenger side door pocket. It's fun!
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Mar 26, 2016 20:20
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The Wonder Weapon posted:How does one determine their type of wheel? I know it's not chrome, but I'm not comfortable calling it as something specific. However, there's a lot to be said for trying plain old washing up detergent and a bit of elbow grease first off.
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Mar 26, 2016 20:32
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InitialDave posted:If it's painted, it's probably fine to use something like Wonder Wheels on it (and it is an excellent wheel cleaner). However, I don't think Wonder Wheels is available in the US? There's an MSDS that lists the ingredients, maybe you cna find something similar: http://www.wonderwheels.com/products/wheel-care/clean/alloy-wheel-cleaning-kit ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE WITH 7 MEO 1-5% BUTANOL-norm<0.1% R10 Xn;R22 Xi;R37/38,R41 R67 FORMALDEHYDE <0.1% HYDROCHLORIC ACID1-5% 7 PHOSPHORIC ACID <1% PROPARGYL ALCOHOL <0.1% Perhaps in the toolkit of a mass-murderer?
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Mar 26, 2016 22:38
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Uthor posted:They make something just for that. I have 1 of these in each of our utility cars and they are great. A bonus is whomever is in the back seat gets to stare dejectedly at your trash.
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Mar 27, 2016 00:46
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Goober Peas posted:That's really weird - I had the exact inverse experience. Grundy was the most expensive and took forever to come up with a quote. No kidding? Maybe its the mood of the agent you get on the phone at the time or something for each place. Within like 15 minutes I had insurance and was on my way to the DMV with Grundy. Well I mean the next day after I had emailed them the pictures they wanted. Within 1 minute with Hagerty I was hanging up cause that person was a dick.
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Mar 27, 2016 01:13
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Drove to the in laws house for Easter dinner and was hearing some rear brake squeak. Stopped and smelled cooked pad, the passenger rear is radiating serious heat. Looks like a stuck caliper. I am not in a spot with tools, about 20 miles from my house. Should I try to use something to pry back the pad from the rotor or something? I did the pads and rotors about 6 months ago. I rebuild the calipers and pins but they are pretty rusty and I'm wondering if I should have just replaced them. Any advice to get home without turning that rotor into a fireball?
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Mar 27, 2016 21:20
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Spray with pb blaster and c-clamp it open?
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Mar 27, 2016 22:20
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It's a rear, it's got the cross face thing ok the front of th piston , has to be screwed back in with that specific tool, which I don't have with me. My brother in law has some tools so we're going to look at it.
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Mar 27, 2016 22:30
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I'd just let it cook the pad and stick another pad and disc swap on the list when fixing it properly. If you're on a long run and not touching the brakes much, it should be ok once it's abraded enough material to not be rubbing. Sounds a bit brutal, but I've done 100+miles like that when I didn't have much choice. Edit: A normal pin spanner or careful use of channel-lock pliers should let you wind the piston back.
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Mar 27, 2016 23:48
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