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captainOrbital posted:I doubt anyone here is old enough to know, but how on earth did anyone fix up old bikes without the internet? Not only for looking through (okay, occasionally inaccurate) guides and manuals, but also for sourcing random bolts and jets and needles and gaskets and all the other incredibly specific things that you probably need or possibly just buy anyway because it's cheap and convenient. Autojumbles. Like eBay but with slightly fewer Nigerian princes. e: Also "Old enough to know"? I'm only just goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Mar 21, 2016 |
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Mar 21, 2016 19:24
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Eh, I was assuming lots of stuff. I was in college when the internet really became a Thing. It must be a British thing, although the Chicagoland MG Club is having a swap meet and autojumble this April! captainOrbital fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Mar 21, 2016 |
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Mar 21, 2016 19:34
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Basically you were limited to the competency of whoever was in your surrounding circle of dealership/ etc. The Internet just exposes you to broad scale idiocy.
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Mar 21, 2016 20:47
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Autojumbles. Like eBay but with slightly fewer Nigerian princes. Does this imply that you've been to autojumbles with a non-zero amount of Nigerian princes present?
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Mar 21, 2016 21:03
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There was also the fact that without computers to design the bikes, you could repair the thing with tin cans and baling wire and be fine.
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Mar 21, 2016 21:53
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captainOrbital posted:I doubt anyone here is old enough to know, but how on earth did anyone fix up old bikes without the internet? Not only for looking through (okay, occasionally inaccurate) guides and manuals, but also for sourcing random bolts and jets and needles and gaskets and all the other incredibly specific things that you probably need or possibly just buy anyway because it's cheap and convenient. Breaker's shop.
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Mar 21, 2016 22:21
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When I go to my local dealer for parts they still look stuff like chain and sprockets and brake pads up in big loving books so I'd imagine there was just a lot of catalogs and hardcopy parts fiches and phone calls to mail order places.
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Mar 21, 2016 22:28
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Deeters posted:There was also the fact that without computers to design the bikes, none of the fairings fit properly and would crack themselves if you actually put all the screws in, if you could even get them lined up in the first place. Can't wait for 3d printing to properly mature so this can stop being a problem (gently caress off naked crew, I'm not in the mood)
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Mar 22, 2016 00:00
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Renaissance Robot posted:Can't wait for 3d printing to properly mature so this can stop being a problem (gently caress off naked crew, I'm not in the mood) No matter how mature 3D printing gets it will still always be cheaper and quicker to mass-produce plastic items through moulding, so I'm really not sure what you're hoping for.
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Mar 22, 2016 00:54
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goddamnedtwisto posted:No matter how mature 3D printing gets it will still always be cheaper and quicker to mass-produce plastic items through moulding, so I'm really not sure what you're hoping for. "I broke a fairing on my 1978 biek and a NOS fairing is $eleventyfuckyou"
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Mar 22, 2016 00:57
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goddamnedtwisto posted:No matter how mature 3D printing gets it will still always be cheaper and quicker to mass-produce plastic items through moulding, so I'm really not sure what you're hoping for. Printing parts directly would be super, but even now you can save a fair bit of effort by printing out things to use as moulds or the basis for moulds for ABS forming. It's a refinement of that process that I'm looking for, because I'm not after mass production, I'm after "I want to get a tweaked version of this 20th century fairing that actually fits, and not have to order 10000 of them to get the unit price down to sensible levels" This is for me, not for manufacturers.
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Mar 22, 2016 01:17
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captainOrbital posted:I doubt anyone here is old enough to know, but how on earth did anyone fix up old bikes without the internet? Not only for looking through (okay, occasionally inaccurate) guides and manuals, but also for sourcing random bolts and jets and needles and gaskets and all the other incredibly specific things that you probably need or possibly just buy anyway because it's cheap and convenient. Ive got a twofer for ya. I started riding in 88, on a 60-something Arctic cat mini bike. No dealer knew what they were, or supported them. It was all duct tape and bailing wire fixes for that bike. I then graduated to a Kawi kdx 80, which was at least supported by the local Kawi dealer (40 mins away). So to answer your question, you trusted that the dealer both knew what they were talking about, and that they could find and get the right parts. You either knew how to fix it yourself, or you took the dealer at their word.
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Mar 22, 2016 01:22
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goddamnedtwisto posted:No matter how mature 3D printing gets it will still always be cheaper and quicker to mass-produce plastic items through moulding, so I'm really not sure what you're hoping for. Sure but also now we have things like shapeways that will print you a 60/40 steel/brass part for relatively cheap. I'm thinking because I'm gonna have to custom fit the reluctor rings for the ABS setup, that might be a cheap and easy way to go (assuming, of course, that it's strong enough...I've gotta ask my machinist friends about that). Renaissance Robot posted:Printing parts directly would be super, but even now you can save a fair bit of effort by printing out things to use as moulds or the basis for moulds for ABS forming. It's a refinement of that process that I'm looking for, because I'm not after mass production, I'm after "I want to get a tweaked version of this 20th century fairing that actually fits, and not have to order 10000 of them to get the unit price down to sensible levels" Yeah for single one offs, good 3d printing at large dimensions will change the game for sure.
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Mar 22, 2016 02:02
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Another crazy front end design in the works, possibly showing up in Moto2 later this year. Apparently it keeps the positive wheel feel of forks without being heavy as poo poo ala telelever. http://www.gizmag.com/motoinno-ts3-motorcycle-suspension-steering-moto2/42378/
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Mar 22, 2016 17:59
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I was ready to be all "oh boy another hub centre effort  " but this really is super different.Do yourselves a favour and click through, that picture doesn't even show half of the actually interesting bits.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:11
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captainOrbital posted:I doubt anyone here is old enough to know, but how on earth did anyone fix up old bikes without the internet? Not only for looking through (okay, occasionally inaccurate) guides and manuals, but also for sourcing random bolts and jets and needles and gaskets and all the other incredibly specific things that you probably need or possibly just buy anyway because it's cheap and convenient. http://www.barbermuseum.org/events/barber-vintage-festival/ Except back then it was just called "Festival" Holy hell this is really involved. My head hurts just trying to figure out what each little part does. It's genius, especially since there's no headstock. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 19:27
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Well, I'm glad I was wrong about that. I don't relish the idea of running around from stall to stall, asking old men in aprons if they have an ignition control module for a '79 as they look at me over their glasses, but it's interesting to hear about it.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:39
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AncientTV posted:Another crazy front end design in the works, possibly showing up in Moto2 later this year. Apparently it keeps the positive wheel feel of forks without being heavy as poo poo ala telelever. quote:You can tune your rake and trail to a wide degree, and also dial in whatever degree of brake dive you're comfortable with - including no dive at all, or even reverse dive, where the front end actually lifts under braking if you really want to bake your own noodle. 
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Mar 22, 2016 21:05
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Renaissance Robot posted:Printing parts directly would be super, but even now you can save a fair bit of effort by printing out things to use as moulds or the basis for moulds for ABS forming. It's a refinement of that process that I'm looking for, because I'm not after mass production, I'm after "I want to get a tweaked version of this 20th century fairing that actually fits, and not have to order 10000 of them to get the unit price down to sensible levels" Oh okay, I thought you were doing the standard "This is a problem, if I put the words 3d-printed in front of it it becomes a solution  " thing that people on the internet like to do. Apologies, I should have had a bit more respect.
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Mar 22, 2016 21:09
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The main problem with any of those alternative fork systems is the fastest riders are used to conventional forks. The 'feel' is different, and as a result they don't trust the front end feel as much, and aren't able to run the front tire to the limits of grip. I think it would be very interesting to see if this actually makes it to Moto2, but if it does, it will most likely be a failure.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:25
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As it says in the article, the system apparently keeps the 'feel' you get from a conventional fork and doesn't have the slop that a linked hub-steering system usually would. If it works as advertised and works fine in carbon fiber, I can see it gaining traction. Going straight to moto2 might be a bit of a tall order, but we'll see.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:38
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Hah, "gaining traction"
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Mar 23, 2016 17:49
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Depends on their rider really. -1s per corner won't look all that spectacular if his conventional times are dogshit  Either way, at least we won't have to wait more than half a year to find out, if their plans hold together.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:02
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n8r posted:The main problem with any of those alternative fork systems is the fastest riders are used to conventional forks. The 'feel' is different, and as a result they don't trust the front end feel as much, and aren't able to run the front tire to the limits of grip. I think it would be very interesting to see if this actually makes it to Moto2, but if it does, it will most likely be a failure.
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Mar 23, 2016 19:48
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think everything other than telescopics are heavier/bulkier too. That matters a lot in racing obviously. Which is why people are still looking for better alternative than telecopic forks. Telescopic forks are pretty heavy things themselves and place a lot of their mass pretty far from the steering pivot axis, from the top triple all the way to the axle. Reducing the moment of inertia by centralizing steering mass mitigates tendency to wobble.
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Mar 23, 2016 20:10
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The 1 second a corner faster number is essentially meaningless, as if that were the case a moto2 bike with that front end would end up faster than most MotoGP bikes. But it's a cool concept and I hope it takes off, I like FFE bikes.
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Mar 24, 2016 02:38
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Went and test rode this guy at a local dealer. I need to sell my SV yesterday. 09 with under 6k miles, and talked them down to a really good price. Somebody buy my SV.
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Mar 25, 2016 01:25
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Like maybe swap the headlight with the one on your sv first
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Mar 25, 2016 01:31
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I like the bug eyes. Better than the squinty bug eyes on the new ones anyway.
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Mar 25, 2016 01:34
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Bug eyes, best eyes. New ones look like trash in comparison.
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Mar 25, 2016 03:47
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A couple noob questions: Why is it advised to increase throttle while going through a curve? What do you do if you really need to sneeze? I am mildly terrified when I have to do that in a car.
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Mar 25, 2016 05:31
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If I have to sneeze I just sneeze. Get my hand up to cover it if I can do I don't coat the inside of my helmet. As you're coming out of a curve giving it throttle will stabilize things and begin to stand the bike up. Gradually feed on throttle when you get past the apex. You probably do this naturally anyway.
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Mar 25, 2016 05:38
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Your tires are different sizes and have different contact patches accordingly. Getting to maintenance throttle (where the bike is neither accelerating nor decelerating but holding speed) allows you to achieve greater levels of lean (because you won't override the front tire) and ground clearance (because being on the gas lifts the bike off the ground due to a combination of weight transfer and chain forces pulling the swingarm towards the ground). You should get to maintenance throttle as soon as reasonable (i.e., once you know you're going to commit to a certain level of lean for a corner), and then as you remove lean angle on corner exit, add throttle. A properly set up bike will not change lean angle on the throttle or the brakes - most of the time that behavior exists because the rider expects the bike to do so and so it follows where the rider looks/expects it to go. There's some general guidance around this for street riding - don't get on maintenance throttle until the vanishing point is opening up or you're comfortable that you're not going to need to slow more, as transitioning from maintenance throttle to off the throttle requires more traction from the front tire as weight transfers forward and can unload the back tire to the point it starts to come around on you. (Note: The vanishing point is watching if the centerline and fog line are getting closer together, stays g the same distance apart, or getting farther apart at the farthest point you can see in the corner. This is 100% of how you ride fast up an unfamiliar road, safely) For examples of the 3 corner types: Decreasing radius - vanishing point is closing up. You should be off the throttle, slowing down until you're comfortable you're going slow enough to make the corner. At that point, the corner effectively becomes a: Constant radius - vanishing point is holding steady. As you leaned into the corner, you can pick up maintenance throttle smoothly, and apply light pressure to the inside bar until your lean angle is set to the final angle you want to make the corner. Opening radius - the vanishing point is expanding. You've already hit the highest point of lean very early in the corner, so this is standing the bike up and adding throttle to taste on corner exit. Other hot tips for new riders: relax your outside arm and steer with only your inside. You're likely to be resisting with your outside arm when you give a steering input. Grip the bars like you have rice paper between you and the grips. Tearing it means you've failed. You should only grip the bars hard enough to overcome the spring tension on the throttle, and at any point but during active clutch usage or steering input, should be able to remove your left hand from the bar. To do this you'll need to lock to the bike with your legs and hold yourself up with your core. Practice smooth engagement of all controls at all times, especially during emergency braking practice. Smooth gives the bike a chance to find traction and gives you the chance to stop rolling on the gas if you start sliding or release the brake if it locks. I think those are the big hot tips I'd give most new riders.
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Mar 25, 2016 07:31
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Z3n posted:Mad wisdom Motorcycle dynamics are freakin' fascinating to me. What books do I need to purchase for more of this kind of thing? I need a diagram for vanishing point/fog line/center line, you lost me there. EDIT: actually Google was helpful here, although all the images are currently broken for me on my Droid http://www.megarider.com/images/Vanishing_Point_answer.html That tidbit of cornering dynamics also further illuminated the cause of my lowside. Again, thank you. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 25, 2016 08:31
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pokie posted:What do you do if you really need to sneeze? I am mildly terrified when I have to do that in a car. Reduce speed, try to take a line that won't have anything in it until your eyes work again. If the road environment is changing fast enough/has a lot of hazards and you think you might be incapacitated for a while (eg sneezing fit), pull over. On the motorway it's not usually that big of a deal. All those factoids about how far you go with your eyes shut sound scary, but the road environment out there is generally much more sedate than city roads (ie there's fewer hazards, and the ones there are tend to develop more slowly), so just mind your distance to the vehicle in front. Shimrod posted:If I have to sneeze I just sneeze. Get my hand up to cover it if I can so I don't coat the inside of my helmet. Mouthsneeze supremacy.
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Mar 25, 2016 09:40
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lift your visor and let it rip
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Mar 25, 2016 15:26
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Hold it and let it shoot out your butt
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Mar 25, 2016 15:33
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Just accept that you'll blow snot all over the inside of your chin guard, then wipe it off when you stop.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:09
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Hold the sneeze. Pop an eye out
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Mar 25, 2016 16:21
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pokie posted:Why is it advised to increase throttle while going through a curve? Beach Bum posted:Motorcycle dynamics are freakin' fascinating to me. What books do I need to purchase for more of this kind of thing? As a newbie motorcyclist, I found the book Proficient Motorcycling by David L. Hough incredibly helpful. http://smile.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=dp_ob_image_bk It really helped me visualize motorcycle dynamics in a non-intimidating way. It also took motorcycle physics and applied them to the street/commuting world, which was very nice as somebody that won't be hitting the track for a while yet. It was largely geared towards riding your motorcycle in a safe way in the real world, which is what I was looking for. Otherwise, Twist of the Wrist and TotW2 have both been recommended, but they really are geared more towards the track/fast riding. Z3n and a few others have recommended more book than I can remember, and you should pretty much read them all. Helps to scratch the motorcycling itch during a rainy day (or long winter).
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Mar 25, 2016 16:29
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