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Man, good luck. I don't know poo poo about bikes but I suspect even sight permanent tweaks to geometry have the ability to cause all kinds of weird wobbles and/or instabilities.
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Mar 20, 2016 03:27
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Jonny 290 posted:Man, good luck. I don't know poo poo about bikes but I suspect even sight permanent tweaks to geometry have the ability to cause all kinds of weird wobbles and/or instabilities. Yeah that's pretty much it. Consider 1970's chassis design being rather rudimentary as well. If he can actually get it to go without crabbing all over the road I'd be surprised. Stay safe dude 
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Mar 20, 2016 03:30
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Thanks for that info. I hope things aren't tweaked, but if they are, I've managed to convince her to allow me to offload the [repaired] bike onto Craigslist, and use the earnings for another model, maybe something newer with fuel injection. Any running, titled motorcycle is worth at least $1000 in my eyes. I hope things weren't too bad, as this wasn't a collision, but a maybe 20-25mph "layer dan*" onto smooth pavement. * she knows that in any scenario, "laying it down" is a failure of the rider and not a viable option. She swerved to avoid impact, but was unable to keep it upright during the swerve back upright. He turned left in front of her when she had a green and she swerved left, but while trying to swerve back right while in the opposite lane she came down on the left side.
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Mar 20, 2016 03:41
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Driver's side CV joint boot just exploded. So, now it matches the passenger side  Well, not "exploded," but "torn cleanly on the hub side," exactly like the passenger side one is. I have one replacement axle and was putting off doing the actual replacement, but now it's time to order a second one and make a day out of it. Does anybody know anything special about CV axle replacement? I have the special triple square driver already. All CV axle replacements I've done in the past (95 Geo, 96 Saturn SL1) have been "jack vehicle up, undo bolts on both sides, remove axle, put new axle in" but sometimes I hear of people having to undo suspension components etc.
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Mar 22, 2016 02:21
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The CV axle replacement did not go as expected.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Mar 27, 2016 |
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Mar 27, 2016 03:46
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Now that it's a few hours later and I've finally cleaned up all of the grease, summary for the day: At around 1400, I finally got up off of my rear end and decided to change the CV axles on the bus, as both sides have torn boots, and they looked original. By 1415, the driver's side CV axle was off. Hub side had triple square bolts, the transmission side had 6mm allen, but meh, it was painless. By 1430, the new driver's side axle was on. I started on the passenger side. At 1455, I had discovered that two bolts on the passenger side axle were seized At 1500, all but those two bolts were removed, and I was contemplating getting out the angle grinder By 1505, the heads of the two bolts were ground off, and axle was removed At 1515, I had greased up the new passenger axle cv bearings By 1530, I had discovered that the passenger axle was too long At 1600, I had finished contemplating returning to Amazon and buying locally. Surprise! No auto parts stores had the correct one in stock in the entirety of Phoenix. Time to implement Plan B. At 1830, I had the new axle torn to bits, and was tearing into one of the old ones. It's really starting to get darker, now By 1900, I had finished reassembling my new Franken-Shaft consisting of an old axle shaft and new bearing parts and boots By 1930, the passenger axle was installed
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Mar 27, 2016 05:40
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Not even BAP or Autohaus?
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Mar 27, 2016 20:05
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Close at 4pm, both.
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Mar 27, 2016 21:16
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Over the past three or four days, the bus has started to run like garbage. I mean, I could still get up to freeway speed (65 or so), but it was very difficult to start and a bit lumpy at idle. Also, the idle was lowering more and more, even though I had it set to a fairly fast idle from the last time I did an emissions test, and also for idle oil pressure in hot temps. Before I dug into a tune up, though, I accomplished some small, but necessary, tasks. First, a CO monitor:  Then, clean up the signal and switch wires from my subwoofer install two weeks ago   Much better. Now, onto the tune up. First step is to remove the air cleaners. Those with weak constitutions, turn away now, because what you're about to see is the result of a man battling too much blowby with the incorrect tools. You've been warned.  With those out of the way, I could start to see the real problems. First, these two brackets that hold the throttle crossover arm were both very, very loose, allowing the arm to flop all around.   I tightened those up with an 8mm spanner. With those brackets being loose, it would be impossible to sync the carbs. Now, to sync the carbs, you need a manometer, or vacuum gauge, of some sort. I vaguely remember spending upwards of $150 two years or so ago on a very fancy 4-channel one that was imported from the UK. Since then, I'd lost track of it, but fixing that simply requires rooting around in my junk for awhile. I hadn't touched this bucket in a long time. Could it be in here?  There you are!    It was a little crusty, but I blew it out and shook it around. To work properly it needs to be absolutely vertical, so I set it up on the engine trapdoor cover. I hooked it up to the distributor vacuum ports on both carbs, and gave it a whirl. Uh oh.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DohgdC4HTd8 Ten minutes or so of fiddling later, and I got it as close as I reliably could throughout the entire range. There's a little bit of differences through the ranges, but overall it keeps together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFWNM3qgc9c That sorted and away, the last thing on the list was new plugs and wires. I've had this box kicking around for a month or two, and it was time to put it to use.  Ranges in different manuals state anything from .024 to .028, so I just picked the middle ground with .026  Old plugs out! #4 isn't looking too happy, though   #1:  #2  #3  #4  If 3 and 4 were equally sooty, I'd chalk it up to driving around for 9 months on unsynced carburetors. And while it's true that the passenger side plugs are both darker, #4 up there is making me a tad worried. Maybe I'll drive a few hundred miles and do another plug pull to see if there's really something going on or it was just the carburetor tune.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:48
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Tuning dual carbs is a loving joke gently caress this I'm getting a centermount progressive weber clone
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Mar 29, 2016 07:41
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I for one think it'd be hilarious if you EFI swapped this beast somehow using EJ18 parts. It's a 1600/1700, right? That's not too far off displacement wise, I bet you could bodge the fuel rate with different injectors or a different fuel pressure regulator easily enough.
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Mar 29, 2016 15:58
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Yeah swapping a Subaru engine in this isn't as daunting a task as it once was. There's company's that make almost everything you would need. Not sure how your state looks at swapped engines seeing as you have to smog that old thing. Another bonus of a Subaru engine is they are better engineered and are less of a clusterfuck design like those old vw pancakes.
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Mar 29, 2016 16:53
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All of that is true, but it looks like most hardware kits alone are around $2600+, and I'd have to spend $500 or so minimum to pick up an engine and ecu. Then there's the month it would take for me to do the actual conversion, in the garage I don't have, with the tools I probably don't have. For $2200 I can get a completely rebuilt type 4 engine with hydraulic lifters, and even up the displacement a bit. I could do that swap in a day. Unfortunately, even that is too expensive for my social standing. I'm trying to drive to work without being stranded, that's all.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:15
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Rather than an engine swap, Kastein seems to be suggesting using 1.8 Subaru parts (ECU and assorted bits) to run your existing engine, as a way to get rid of your carb synch woes. I guess the hardest part would be getting all the sensors to mount up correctly, and making an intake manifold with injector bungs and a throttle body.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:26
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Raluek posted:Rather than an engine swap, Kastein seems to be suggesting using 1.8 Subaru parts (ECU and assorted bits) to run your existing engine, as a way to get rid of your carb synch woes. I guess the hardest part would be getting all the sensors to mount up correctly, and making an intake manifold with injector bungs and a throttle body. If I remember General Faiilure's Aussie bus adventures, the early Subie boxer is almost identical to a VW engine, just with water jackets. Maybe the later EFI motor isn't much different? Not really all that familiar with VW of Subie...
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Mar 29, 2016 20:08
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Raluek posted:Rather than an engine swap, Kastein seems to be suggesting using 1.8 Subaru parts (ECU and assorted bits) to run your existing engine, as a way to get rid of your carb synch woes. I guess the hardest part would be getting all the sensors to mount up correctly, and making an intake manifold with injector bungs and a throttle body. Yeah that's what I was thinking. It wasn't really a serious suggestion, but rigging cam and crank reluctor wheels for this kind of setup shouldn't be bad (since you can dispose of the distributor or use it as a base for your cam sensor shenanigans, as subaru EJ motors are coilpack based) and I bet you could straight-up use the subaru throttle body as-is with an adapter plate made out of 6061 on a drill press*. That leaves injector bungs and fuel rails as the difficult part. * I have no idea if there was ever a single-carb manifold for those beasts, but I bet you could figure a way to make this work. You're smart and better with CAD and stuff than me.
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Mar 29, 2016 21:29
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Like a megasquirt, but with Subaru parts. Yeah, I can see that. Even better, they do offer single intake manifolds, and they're two pieces, so an adapter to a Subaru throttle body wouldn't be too bad. Wouldn't I have to do things like the knock, water temp, air temp, o2, crank, vehicle speed, and oil pressure sensors? That's a lot of additions, and some I'd have to fake.
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Mar 29, 2016 22:01
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Subaru cam and crank wheels can be a little eccentric depending on generation so I wouldn't be surprised if you have to replace them with a 36-2-2-2 or a junkyard option like Ford EDIS.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:10
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Geirskogul posted:Like a megasquirt, but with Subaru parts. Yeah, I can see that. Even better, they do offer single intake manifolds, and they're two pieces, so an adapter to a Subaru throttle body wouldn't be too bad. knock sensor: I'd bolt it to the cylinder head you suspect will get the hottest, since that one will probably detonate first. You could also just leave it hanging if you know it's not going to knock. Or for that matter, put one on each head and build a mixer/preamp for the signal or if they're the piezo sensors I suspect they are, just put them in parallel or series, not sure which. air temp: nose sticking into the intake manifold somewhere. Probably easily drilled and tapped, it doesn't have to handle much pressure. water temp: hmmm this is a good point since you don't have any water to put it in. poo poo. Maybe use a CHT or CWT sensor with the same resistance curve? vehicle speed: Since your speedo is cable driven I assume, you can just do what chrisgt did and hook an LM555 sending a pulse train to this to keep the ECU from whining about it. Or in his case, a VCR motor spinning a mechanical vehicle speed sensor, since he's a master macguyver and needed it working immediately O2: weld a bung to your exhaust, it's M18x1.5 thread and they're like 3 bucks at CAP. crank and cam sensors: You'd have to duplicate the stock reluctor wheel shape and mount them to the crank pulley and distributor shaft. Shouldn't be too too hard but also not easy. oil pressure: put it on a tee wherever your oil pressure sender is. Other sensors I can think of off the top of my head - MAP or MAF depending on year. The ones that worry me the most are still the injector mounting, water temp (now that you brought it up), and cam sensor. For the crank sensor you could do something as dumb as using a longer harmonic balancer bolt and a spacer plus the stock subaru crank timing pulley and an angle iron bracket for the sensor if you get it clocked right, it's not like any actual torque gets applied to it. Or scale the stock reluctor tooth pattern up to the diameter of the harmonic balancer outer edge and tack weld little strips of mild steel on in the right spots. Remember you have to scale the whole thing radially, so the teeth will be wider than stock. Injector mounting is definitely the most troublesome and dangerous, though, since you're playing with gas. That has to be done right. I have no idea if this would work or clear all your engine accessories and cooling ducts, but if you could make an adaptor plate to put the entire EJ18 intake manifold onto the VW heads instead (if the ports line up amazingly well, it might be possible) it'd solve a lot of these problems at once.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:41
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I'm sure that there's some geocities page somewhere where somebody has done that. I just need to find it 
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Mar 30, 2016 00:53
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It's a VW aircooled engine, you could probably get away with just using a GM TBI system on the throttle body if you could find a suitable adapter and/or shorty intake manifold. Then all your sensors and poo poo are just junkyard pulls from exceptionally cheap cars and the wiring is even simpler than the Subaru setup. You're not making anything resembling power and you won't have to alter the heads that way. Since the objective is to get rid of carb synch you could probably just maintain the existing ignition system too. I think the TBI coil gives the ECU its position signal but you can probably make it work. Pretty simple stuff (5 sensors), and you could find a cheaper setup than this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Wiring-Harness-TBI-Harness-W-ECM-SBC-TBI-ENGINE-SWAP-/221943833801 Some stuff from VW people who know more: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=111269 Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 01:16
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Actually, if you can get the TBI to inject the right amount of fuel for a 1600/1700 instead of a 5.7L V8, that's ideal, because I don't think it even has a crank or cam sensor or distributor pickup. People swap them onto AMC V8s, it can't really depend much on hard part compatibility. I wonder if anyone makes TBI injectors that do a quarter the flow instead of more flow? e: nope, you have to modify the distributor so the computer can control spark advance. Unsure on details but they're all over the internet.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:21
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Could you just trick it into pulsing the injector 1/4 as often?
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Mar 30, 2016 01:23
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If memory serves, the last time I was looking into this there was a 1.8L GM engine that had a later edition of TBI and very teensy injectors and throttle body. I'd probably yank everything off of an Iron Duke S10 since that's widely junkyardable, and once the concept is proven, move on from there. The real problem is remapping the ECU but I know there are some GM TBI ECUs that can be chipped. edit: Naturally someone on GRM has considered it: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/gm-25-iron-duke-tbi-swap/63398/page1/ Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 01:24
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Maybe, but quartering the flow rate would probably be better. Might have to use a smaller throttle body too otherwise you'd never get it past like, barely any throttle. Or are there TBI engines with a closer-to-ACVW displacement that would have a smaller throttle body with smaller injectors that can still be driven by the GM TBI ECU's drivers? I know there are low and high impedance TBI injectors. e: SSS beat me to it. If there's a 2.2 or 2.5 S10 with TBI, that might be worth looking at.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:25
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Geirskogul posted:Tuning dual carbs is a loving joke gently caress this I'm getting a centermount progressive weber clone So I've had this box in my garage for the last about ten years 
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Mar 30, 2016 04:13
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I have money and ADD
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Mar 30, 2016 04:55
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also fwiw a lot of 80s vehicles with cruise still had a cable speedometer with a vss mounted somewhere in the middle. find one and jank it. E: like these 
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Mar 30, 2016 05:14
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Geirskogul posted:I have money and ADD if you want it pm me
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Mar 30, 2016 05:35
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cursedshitbox posted:also fwiw a lot of 80s vehicles with cruise still had a cable speedometer with a vss mounted somewhere in the middle. find one and jank it. That persisted into the 90s on some makes. 90-93 Acura Integra comes to mind. 88-91 Civics as well. I know for sure the Integra just plopped a VSS on the back of the cluster, pretty sure the Civic did too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 06:23
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FancyMike posted:if you want it pm me PM is sent
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Mar 30, 2016 10:07
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cursedshitbox posted:also fwiw a lot of 80s vehicles with cruise still had a cable speedometer with a vss mounted somewhere in the middle. find one and jank it. Depending on the threads and signal required, an 88-93 dakota will have one. Input is 7/8-18 female thread, output 5/8-18 male thread, if you need two 5/8 or two 7/8 you can get an adapter bung from an 87-90 xj/mj with cruise, it's on the vss behind the instrument panel. Dakota VSS are reed switch, xj/mj 87-90 VSS are VR style. I have an XJ/MJ VSS to donate but not the adapter bung if you want/need it.
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Mar 30, 2016 13:46
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The next step for the bus is that carburetor that FancyMike is shipping me. I can't really drive it as-is - it's running way too lean and I can't figure it out right now with everything else that's going on. I think a rebuild kit and a good cleaning, and I'll at least be consistent side-to-side. Anyway, onwards! This post is an intermission from the normal Bus: a Ruining feature. First, to grab your attention, a pretty cool car crash I came upon at work a few days ago. Most of you know that I'm an EMT in my day job, but I generally work what we call "interfacility" or "IF," being a hospital to hospital ambulance, instead of a 911 ambulance. An EMT on a 911 ambulance normally doesn't get to do too much, because they're really just driving and assisting the paramedic (though I won't discount how much that assist helps and requires skillful work). However, an EMT on a BLS (2x EMTs instead of 1x EMT and 1x Paramedic) ambulance gets to do a lot more, as half of the time you're in the back taking care of patients. In theory you'll only get BLS-level calls instead of ALS (basic life support vs advanced life support) calls, but as I work the night shift, I get a lot of poo poo thrown on me that should have had a medic or even a doc there hours ago, and I find it fun. However, as it's still Interfacility, while I may get some gnarly medical patients (10 month old with asthma, 80-year-old with two broken arms and "unreported" A-fib, etc), I rarely come upon a car crash like a traditional 911 crew. The other day, however, we were "lift assisting" another nurse crew on the way to the hospital. As in, they had a 450lb patient, and needed a few extra sets of hands to lift the patient into the ambulance. We also follow to the hospital (where there are always extra people to help lift) as courtesy, and sometimes because we have their gurney in the back of our truck (having earlier switched out our small gurney for the bariatric, or "fat person," gurney). So, we were following this nurse crew to a hospital, when NO poo poo about 4 cars ahead of us, I see this Toyota Matrix all over the road. It was on the freeway in 80mph traffic, but with occasional gridlock every few miles. This Matrix was left and right swerving all over, and just about as I was going to say to my partner that she was going to have an accident, all lanes had to emergency stop for some heavy traffic. When this happened, the driver of the Matrix swerved left, then overcorrected right enough to cruise across three lanes (we were in the lane next to the HOV lane), hit the gravel on the shoulder, and turn around 180* right into a tree. It was a miracle that she didn't hit anybody in any of those three lanes, as all 3 were emergency stopping for the traffic and were already squirrely. But, the stopped cars did clear a path for us, and we booked it to the shoulder in the gap to assess the damage.     Look at that cabin intrusion. At least 15" of it, which is insane. She hit the tree sideways at nearly full speed, at least 50mph. Had there been a passenger, they would have been dead, or at least seriously injured. For HIPAA's sake, I can't tell you much about the passenger herself, except for she was perfectly fine without an immediate scratch on her, though I bet two days after the fact she was feeling very sore in a few places (nobody feels injured following an accident). Our nurse/bariatric crew continued to the hospital, and we were there for the patient until her family showed up (and she refused fire's medical care). Goddamned Toyota Matrix saved her life. Side note: I have that exact same steering wheel cover on my beetle. Now, my weekend was much less exciting than the workweek. First was a 3-day FTX for the AZ ARNG in loving Papago, which sucked hard. I now have PTSD about both paintball guns, and people screaming "MEDIC!" at nighttime. Anyway, the headlight for the motorcycle finally arrived, so I mocked it up with bungee cords:  Then I took some measurements from the mounting holes  And printed up a mount for it   (really need to order that PEI sheet for the rostock. I ruined my last one and a new one is like $40 for the right thickness)   BTW: that thing to the left? Lampshade. And it glows in the dark (excuse the lovely cell camera)   Will it fit?  It fits!  (I hosed up measuring the ignition cutout) Then I went on a picture blackout, spending 4+ hours doing wiring and wiring cleanup (corroded connector replacement, etc) 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 07:40
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Are you worried at all about the PLA shattering, especially with the bolt holes as close to the edge as they are? e. Also, holy hell, that Matrix!
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Apr 5, 2016 13:49
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Thankfully I'm using ABS, but that's still a worry. If it breaks, it's pretty easy to replace, and I wanted to print a black one anyway. I did do seven walls thick, with eight solid top and bottom layers, so at least it's solid to the holes.
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Apr 5, 2016 18:04
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Just wanted to let you know FancyMike that I got the carburetor and fixings today, and everything looks amazing! Have a master rebuild kit (floats, etc) on order, along with rubber pieces. Next weekend I hope to be installing it. Question: did it come from another VW (I'd assume so based on the intake)? Just checking for jetting purposes.
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Apr 7, 2016 10:32
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Geirskogul posted:Just wanted to let you know FancyMike that I got the carburetor and fixings today, and everything looks amazing! Have a master rebuild kit (floats, etc) on order, along with rubber pieces. Next weekend I hope to be installing it. Question: did it come from another VW (I'd assume so based on the intake)? Just checking for jetting purposes. it came out of my '73 bus. i can't say for certain if it's original of course though, i got the bus in '02. switched to dual carbs when we swapped the engine out for a higher displacement rebuilt one
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Apr 7, 2016 15:50
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I've spent the last two days dipping parts in the ultrasound bath and it's amazing. So clean, and only with water and dawn. Pics upon assembly this Sunday.
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Apr 8, 2016 21:11
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Working on reassembling the carburetor:      The poor goodwill find that has had to deal with all of the crud:  Still waiting on the rebuilt kit from JBUGS (ordered on the 7th, no response to emails from them since them :ohdear) to finish, then I can spend the weekend reinstalling. Also, I was missing half of my stock coat hooks. That doesn't matter too much to me, as I have a string across the B pillar hook places to hold up the front curtain. I want to change the string out for some nylon rope to make it easier to slide the curtain, though, and tying nylon to a screw is difficult. A 3D printer lets me kill two birds with one stone: Stock hook.  Updated version. Basically the same thing with a hole in the side, but it has some reinforcement where I think it would crack or break.  And, for reference, the jets I found inside the carburetor: 
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Apr 12, 2016 03:42
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:31 |
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So the traffic report on the radio this morning (KTAR) was talking about a VW bus running people off the road on the 101. What is wrong with you man?
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Apr 12, 2016 05:40
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