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Antillie posted:Yeah from what I can tell broadcast TV, Tivos, and cable modems get along with MoCA just fine. Its the other stuff I can't find good info on. Things like TWC's whole home DVR and digital cable service, Dish and Direct TV and their whole home DVR offerings, other cable providers, AT&T U-verse, ect... AT&T U-verse actually uses HPNA 3.1 for it's ethernet over coax transmissions while almost everyone else uses MoCA. They're somewhat similar, but MoCA is much more popular. G.hn is the new future stuff we'll be seeing in a few years which should be pretty neat if it works. Antillie posted:I took a stab at the MoCA section. Thoughts? I think it's fine. MoCA and other Ethernet over Coax technologies are a small niche market anyway (from an end user perspective, they're critical for services like Fios, and DirecTV behind the scenes), I steer people to power line networking and recommend Ethernet over Coax as a last resort. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 24, 2016 23:58
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Antillie posted:If it has fewer features than the ERL unless you dig into the CLI then I definitely think it should be left out. Yeah, I feel that the USG should be left out. That MoCA stuff looks good, and that guide covers it very well. Does anyone use DLNA anymore for it to warrant a mention? I'd assume anyone streaming local content is primarily using Plex or Kodi.
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Mar 25, 2016 00:03
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I don't know if it's really worth it but maybe a section in the proposed OP mentioning some of these solutions that have been talked about in these last few pages for getting internet to places not served by a traditional ISP? I mean, it's kind of niche and esoteric, but on the other hand there's millions of people in the USA who are stuck 500 feet or a few miles from being able to get broadband...I sure would have loved some general pointers and links to some ideas when I lived out in the country a decade ago. In fact, just recently, I've been pondering the best way to get my parents off of the terrible, lovely satellite internet they're stuck with right now.
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Mar 25, 2016 00:43
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Deca adapters work if you have DirecTV OR if you have coax cables in your house that aren't used for anything. I don't have cable and use the coax in my house with $12 pairs of Deca adapters for 100% perfect 100Mbps networking to two spare bedrooms in my home. I could not be happier with the performance for the price.
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Mar 25, 2016 02:37
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Thermopyle posted:In fact, just recently, I've been pondering the best way to get my parents off of the terrible, lovely satellite internet they're stuck with right now. How far away is the closest real connection?
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Mar 25, 2016 04:45
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Hi Networking thread! I recently purchased 300/100 Cable Internet from our good friends at Cox, which means that my trusty old friend, my 8 x 4 Cisco DPC 3010 needs to go away, lest I be leaving kibs on the table. After shopping for modems for a few minutes, I realized something: I don't know poo poo about modems. Routers are my jam, but modems are a mystery and alas, I have no strong opinions which it what leads me here. That said, I know what I want in a modem... I want as much control as I an ISP will give me. If I can see current status and preferably log files, that'd be a decent win. If Cox can't lock it down at all for some reason, that'd be super! I also want hardware that doesn't cook itself. This thing needs to be operating in a box that's about 2" x 2" x 6", and it has to share a space with my router. I'm willing to pay for hardware that doesn't suck. With that said, recommend me a modem!
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Mar 25, 2016 04:59
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Get an Arris SB6190
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Mar 25, 2016 05:39
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:This thing needs to be operating in a box that's about 2" x 2" x 6", and it has to share a space with my router. Good luck with that.
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Mar 25, 2016 13:11
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:Hi Networking thread! Check with your ISP to see what modems they allow on their network and what speeds they support for said modems. Then (if your ISP supports them) pick up a SB6183 or SB6190 depending on how many other people are on the cable system in your area. They are pretty much the same thing but the SB6190 can bond to 32 channels vs 16 for the SB6183. Some ISPs only offer their higher speed tiers with modems that can bond a minimum number of channels. In addition to making higher raw speeds possible the ability to bond more channels allows the modem to load balance your traffic across multiple channels more effectively and better avoid congested channels on the ISP's network. So even if you aren't paying for a higher speed tier you will get whatever speed you are paying for more consistently and more often with a modem that can bind to more channels. The 6141, 6183, and 6190 are all pretty much the same but each one can bond to more channels than the previous one while also costing more. It’s hard to say if getting a more expensive modem is objectively worth the extra money without actually hooking up each modem in turn and testing them on your specific ISP in your specific area. The more people there are on the cable system in the area the more being able to bond to more channels helps out. I run my SB6141 in a small cabinet with my C2758 based pfSense router (fanless Mini-ITX box). About 2' across, 1' high, and 2'6" deep or so. It gets a bit warm in there but everything works fine. The CPU temp sensor on the router is currently reading 53°C. Antillie fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 25, 2016 14:11
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CrazyLittle posted:How far away is the closest real connection? 4 miles or so.
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Mar 25, 2016 14:13
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Dumb question: Do the Ubiquiti routers support VPN out of the box or would I need a separate VPN server? I'm coming from higher end Asus routers which have stuff like VPN and (basic) QoS built in.
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Mar 25, 2016 15:08
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Ynglaur posted:Dumb question: Do the Ubiquiti routers support VPN out of the box or would I need a separate VPN server? I'm coming from higher end Asus routers which have stuff like VPN and (basic) QoS built in. According to Ubiquiti's documentation all of the Edgerouter models support: IPSec Site-to-Site and Remote Access OpenVPN Site-to-Site and Remote Access PPTP Remote Access L2TP Remote Access PPTP Client Not sure what the performance levels are though. I also feel it is worth mentioning that PPTP is not secure and should not be used if all possible. Full QoS support is also present on all Edgerouter models with the following features: FIFO Stochastic Fairness Queueing Random Early Detection Token Bucket Filter Deficit Round Robin Hierarchical Token Bucket Ingress Policing This looks like a basic L2TP/IPSec setup to remote in to your LAN from the outside on the EdgerouterX. I imagine the config for an Edgerouter Lite would be the same or very similar. With the exception of wifi stuff Ubiquiti routers should be able to do literally anything a consumer router can do and more. The datasheet has all the info. Antillie fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 25, 2016 15:22
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Antillie posted:According to Ubiquiti's documentation all of the Edgerouter models support: To add to my this, the IPSec/L2TP setup is recommended over OpenVPN due to performance issues with OpenVPN. I've seen reports of The ERLite-3 and ERPOE-5 being capable of something like 100Mb/s over IPSec/L2TP, and about an order of magnitude less over OpenVPN. Not sure about performance on the ER-X though. It all has to do with hardware offloading of the encryption, which they can't do with OpenVPN.
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Mar 25, 2016 15:46
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smax posted:To add to my this, the IPSec/L2TP setup is recommended over OpenVPN due to performance issues with OpenVPN. I've seen reports of The ERLite-3 and ERPOE-5 being capable of something like 100Mb/s over IPSec/L2TP, and about an order of magnitude less over OpenVPN. Not sure about performance on the ER-X though. It all has to do with hardware offloading of the encryption, which they can't do with OpenVPN. Good to know. I am pretty sure the dual core CPU in the ERX will easily trounce most consumer routers in VPN performance and at least keep pace with the high end ones. The ERL will certainly beat the crap out of any consumer router in that regard with its hardware encryption accelerator. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 25, 2016 15:53
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Thank you Goons!
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Mar 25, 2016 18:17
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Would a section in the new OP on jumbo frames be helpful? I just found a couple of old posts of mine where I wrote up a pretty good explanation of what jumbo frames are and why most people shouldn't bother with them on a home network.
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Mar 25, 2016 19:01
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I read the new OP preview but want to ask about some things. I'm also completely loving clueless. There's four of us moving moving into an apartment, all of us into our own rooms. (floorplan) Will the suggested Archer C5/7/9 be able to reach into every corner of the apartment? I forgot to check where the wall socket for modem was but the previous owners had their box next to the middle WC. The load would be about each of us owning retarded amount of wireless toys and then four desktops connected thro cables. Also, what should I do about the modem since apparently the Surfboxes aren't being sold in Finland? How do I even figure out what kinda modem our connection is going to need? The modem my ISP is pushing for the connection is Zyxel VMG3925. The ISP advertises the connection as 100 MB FTTC Fiber. Actually browsing the modems being sold around here and basically all of them come with router. Is there a particular reason to not get a box with both? Please help, I don't want to be forced to surf internet thro my phone, like some kind of animal.
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Mar 25, 2016 19:25
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Antillie posted:Would a section in the new OP on jumbo frames be helpful? I just found a couple of old posts of mine where I wrote up a pretty good explanation of what jumbo frames are and why most people shouldn't bother with them on a home network. Home network? If you've got gigabit switching throughout then you definitely should use jumbo frames on your LAN. They're just useless past that point because no internet transit is going to honor them *edit* Ah I see the posts you're referring to. Good info but I agree that it's pretty niche. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 25, 2016 19:31
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Puistokemisti posted:I read the new OP preview but want to ask about some things. I'm also completely loving clueless. Next to the middle WC is a pretty good spot and it will probably cover the whole place. My biggest concern would be the APs of all of your neighbors crowding up the radio spectrum. That modem they are giving you looks like some sort of DSL modem. I am not sure what to recommend for DSL. I generally recommend that people get separate boxes for the their modem and their router. It lets you replace/upgrade one without needing to worry about the other, which can save you some money down the road. Also dedicated devices tend to be better at their specialized jobs than all in one combo boxes. However my experience is limited to the US. Things may be a bit different in Europe.
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Mar 25, 2016 20:29
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Puistokemisti posted:The modem my ISP is pushing for the connection is Zyxel VMG3925. The ISP advertises the connection as 100 MB FTTC Fiber. I'm 99% certain you're going to be given a bonded VDSL connection to the street-side cabinet, where the cabinet has fiber reaching back to the ISP's datacenter. You won't be able to find a "modem-only" device to replace the Zyxel router. At best you can request a set of public IPs on the inside of the ISP router and then you can disable all the firewall/wifi functions on the Zyxel and use your own router/AP. I'm currently working with a lot of Zyxel VMG4325 boxes and here's my recommendations: 1) As soon as you receive the box/service/device, get the local login & password from the ISP and ADD A SECOND USER with a unique username/password. If you do not do this, the router will lock everyone out of the "admin" login name and you'll never be able to get in. 2) Download a backup of the config, and/or write down all of the settings on the "WAN" side and the "Home Networking" side of the router's config. This comes in handy if you ever need to use the reset button... Which you should never do except as a last resort. 3) Change the mangement page ports away from the default HTTP/80, HTTPS/443, SSH/22, Telnet/23 to something unique and write them down. 4) If you want to use your own router/AP devices, ask the ISP to give you a routed, public IP on the inside of the Zyxel, but still do the steps above. The ISP's responsibility stops at that device.
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Mar 25, 2016 20:46
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CrazyLittle posted:I'm 99% certain you're going to be given a bonded VDSL connection to the street-side cabinet, where the cabinet has fiber reaching back to the ISP's datacenter. You won't be able to find a "modem-only" device to replace the Zyxel router. At best you can request a set of public IPs on the inside of the ISP router and then you can disable all the firewall/wifi functions on the Zyxel and use your own router/AP. For what it is worth, I can opt out of buying the modem, it costs 90e. The other ISP that sells the exact same speeds at the exact same prices requires you to find the modem hidden between various other junk they offer you and choose to buy the modem. I don't know if it's the same modem since it's only listed as "MODEM" in the cart. They give up to five public IPs. It's a bit hard to tell just what these things include since instead of anything remotely useful, I get to buy things like "MEDIA" or "BOOK" or, the one we'll probably pick, "LARGE". Getting any useful info requires digging thro their hideous Customer Service site. I did however learn that if the connection is ADSL or VDSL, there's bunch of modems they recommend that work. And that I'll find out what type of connection it is once I order it. Guess I could call the customer service and ask but I think they are closed until tuesday.
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Mar 25, 2016 22:12
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Thermopyle posted:I don't know if it's really worth it but maybe a section in the proposed OP mentioning some of these solutions that have been talked about in these last few pages for getting internet to places not served by a traditional ISP? I updated the section on Ubiquiti's Nanostations / Rockets, as those products should cover the basic "consumer" needs. A lot of their other wireless is for WISPs which is more complicated than to give a single solution.
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Mar 25, 2016 23:12
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Puistokemisti posted:For what it is worth, I can opt out of buying the modem, it costs 90e. The other ISP that sells the exact same speeds at the exact same prices requires you to find the modem hidden between various other junk they offer you and choose to buy the modem. I don't know if it's the same modem since it's only listed as "MODEM" in the cart. 100mbit FTTC is kind of a "magic number" because no single line tech can reach that speed. You need bonded VDSL to make that work, and there's only a handful of devices on the public market that work with bonded VDSL.
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Mar 25, 2016 23:41
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Antillie posted:I've made a ton of additions and changes to the proposed new OP that Rukus is working on. Mostly by adding in edited versions of some of my old posts. I also incorporated parts of CrazyLittle's excellent post on the Edgerouter series. Is there meaningful difference in routers <$50? I know you have the EdgemasterX in there but that doesn't do any wireless Jinnigan fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 13:48
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I've never had much luck hitting my NAS away from my home network, though I did have it working last time I visited home. I remoted in to my HTPC via teamviewer to try and check router settings, but I cant hit the router either? I know the IP is right, but it just times out. "Error connection reset". The HTPC is hardwired through a simple switch.
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Mar 26, 2016 18:49
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Jinnigan posted:Is there meaningful difference in routers <$50? I know you have the EdgemasterX in there but that doesn't do any wireless Sub $50 routers tend to be 802.11n instead of the newer AC standard. While this isn't a huge deal it will leave you maybe needing/wanting to get an AC model at some point in the future. Most of them are also 2.4ghz only. Which I feel is a real drawback these days. In many places the 2.4ghz spectrum is so crowded with APs its almost unusable. Routers that support the 5ghz band address this issue pretty well so I am very reluctant to recommend a 2.4ghz only router. The TL-WDR3500 is dual band N for under $50 but its switch ports are only 100mbps, so its going to leave your wired network slower than you may want it. Its slightly better equiped sibling, the TL-WDR3600 has gigabit switch ports but comes in at $60. The DIR-818LW has gigabit ports and AC wifi for under $50 but its range is less than most other routers and its basic AC implementation isn't much faster than N. So whatever way you go you are going to have to compromise somewhere. Antillie fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 20:12
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As a result of Jinnigan's question I have added a section to the proposed new OP covering cheap routers as not everyone can easily drop $80-$100 on a router. If anyone knows of any other sub $70 routers that don't seem to be objectively terrible I can put one or two more in there. I just don't want to recommend anything that doesn't support the 5ghz band. I did find a $20 router that might not be a total piece of poo poo. Should it be listed as a super low cost option even though its 2.4ghz only? Antillie fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 20:52
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Grabbed the EdgerouterX and Lite AP, they're pretty slick. I like the EdgeOS interface too. However I'm having a bit of a problem visualizing how everything's connecting up logically, since the AP is being powered POE. Any recommendations for a better diagramming tool than my corporate-supplied Visio? I'd rather not use it if I don't have to.
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Mar 26, 2016 21:56
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SquadronROE posted:Grabbed the EdgerouterX and Lite AP, they're pretty slick. I like the EdgeOS interface too. I don't do much with diagrams but Visio is the tool I tend to use for the task. When I imagine a typical ERX/AC-AP-Lite home setup this is what I picture:  I am not sure if the second PoE injector in front of the UAP-AC-Lite is strictly necessary since the ERX can do PoE pass through. Antillie fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 23:10
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Yep that's basically what I've got. The wired things can't really talk to each other since they're technically on different networks. It is making it hard to actually set up the AP too, because from my host PC (on one of the LAN slots) I can't detect the AP. Also I couldn't get the router to do pass-through POE for some reason. It wouldn't power the AP.
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Mar 26, 2016 23:22
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SquadronROE posted:Yep that's basically what I've got. The wired things can't really talk to each other since they're technically on different networks. It is making it hard to actually set up the AP too, because from my host PC (on one of the LAN slots) I can't detect the AP. You'll want to bridge your eth1 to eth4 ports (assuming you're using eth0 as your WAN): https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/204952244-EdgeMAX-How-do-I-bridge-eth2-3-and-4-switch0-with-eth1-on-the-EdgeRouter-POE- e: for the PoE, using the UAP-AC-Lite adapter to power the ERX, let the ERX boot up, wait a few minutes, then plug in the AP. The provided adapter for the AP supplies up to 12W, but the ERX and AP can use a combined 11.5W if both are under full load. Doing this just staggers the initial power draw of when the devices power up. Rukus fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 23:42
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Rukus posted:You'll want to bridge your eth1 to eth4 ports (assuming you're using eth0 as your WAN): https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/204952244-EdgeMAX-How-do-I-bridge-eth2-3-and-4-switch0-with-eth1-on-the-EdgeRouter-POE- Ah, thanks for the documentation. I think I'm going to set up an old router as a dumb switch flashed with DDWRT and put everything on that though. That should make the troubleshooting a little more straightforward when something breaks anyway, and won't reduce the throughput.
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Mar 26, 2016 23:48
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SquadronROE posted:Ah, thanks for the documentation. I think I'm going to set up an old router as a dumb switch flashed with DDWRT and put everything on that though. That should make the troubleshooting a little more straightforward when something breaks anyway, and won't reduce the throughput. You wouldn't see any throughput degredation with the ERX since it differs from the ERL (and PoE) by having a switch chip on its eth1-4 ports. A dedicated switch for future growth is still a good idea, though.
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Mar 26, 2016 23:52
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Yeah use the ERX as a switch on whatever ports you aren't using for the WAN. Its actually better at being a switch than it is at being a router.
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Mar 27, 2016 00:04
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So I went ahead and reconfigured an old WRT54G to use as a switch. I'm going to replace it eventually but I'd like to get it up and running as is. However I'm running into problems trying to access EdgeOS and Internet from machines on the switch. Here's the topology. Previously I had everything connected on different ports on the router, and I could get internet connectivity to the wired machines but no wireless signal or internet to the access point. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong, here? I can't access the switch from the gaming PC nor the router from the gaming PC, but I can access the router from the Host PC. To make troubleshooting simpler I'm going to reset the router to factory defaults. So the image is now incorrect because the HostPC is on eth0 on the ERX. turn it up TURN ME ON fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Mar 27, 2016 |
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Mar 27, 2016 02:16
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SquadronROE posted:So I went ahead and reconfigured an old WRT54G to use as a switch. I'm going to replace it eventually but I'd like to get it up and running as is. However I'm running into problems trying to access EdgeOS and Internet from machines on the switch. Here's the topology. Did you turn off DHCP on the WRT54G and also make sure its LAN IP is different from your main router? It might be causing havoc if it's still trying to do router stuff. I know you said you configured it as a switch but it's worth checking those because they can cause intermittent weirdness.
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Mar 27, 2016 02:22
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Rexxed posted:Did you turn off DHCP on the WRT54G and also make sure its LAN IP is different from your main router? It might be causing havoc if it's still trying to do router stuff. I know you said you configured it as a switch but it's worth checking those because they can cause intermittent weirdness. Thanks, I'll take a peek and make sure I disabled that. I think there might be a problem with the subnets. It looks like the switch is getting assigned to x.x.2.x but I set up the ip for the console to be x.x.1.100. Not great. Regardless, resetting to factory default and running the "WAN+2LAN" wizard seems to have given internet through the switch. Now I just need to figure out how to configure the AP and I'll be golden.
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Mar 27, 2016 03:37
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Why more than one subnet on the LAN? There is no reason you can't, it just makes things needlessly complicated unless you actually need a second subnet for some reason. To configure the AP install the Unifi controller on any PC on the same subnet as the AP and enjoy the slick interface. Antillie fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Mar 27, 2016 |
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Mar 27, 2016 03:42
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Antillie posted:Why more than one subnet on the LAN? There is no reason you can't, it just makes things needlessly complicated unless you actually need a second subnet for some reason. I don't really know. It seems to have automatically set up a second subnet for the switch. Regardless, the switch is now giving internet to the AP and my gaming PC, with the host PC able to access all control interfaces. Not sure why my switch (shown as switch0 on the EdgeMAX dashboard) is using a separate subnet though. I'll have to see if I can change that. EDIT: Whoo, trying to change the IP assigned to switch0 led to needing to reset to factory settings, couldn't even reach the EdgeMAX OS. Let's not do THAT again. I think it's just assigning a different subnet for the switch, which is fine if you consider the ERX as a true router and not a router + switch. I may need to bridge the connection between eth2 (the switch) and so they draw from the same subnet. turn it up TURN ME ON fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Mar 27, 2016 |
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Mar 27, 2016 05:05
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So this Power Line networking... does that mean if someone flips the switch for I dunno, say a washing machine or some big power tools, I'll notice a disruption in service/quality?
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Mar 28, 2016 00:39
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