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Heavily saturated salt water for a couple of weeks, then toss them in the garbage. If you can recycle them, do - there are places that will take them, if you can be bothered to do the research. But IIRC they're safe to go in landfills once they've soaked in salt water for many days.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:55
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So I pulled my stock Clodbuster out of a box in the garage after 10+ years and got it up and running again, but I forgot how much slop there is in the steering. What are the current options for stiffening that up? I already have a higher torque servo on the shopping list (and just bought a new battery - the spending begins!) But most of the twisting seems to be in the stock plastic servo saver. Looking around, the only upgrade I can find is the Crawford aluminum kit: I saw a couple other kits from ESP and JPS, but can't find them in stock anywhere... any other options I haven't seen? Hopefully not too much $$ since I'm already planning on picking up a Wraith soon (or maybe a Yeti XL!  )
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Mar 8, 2016 08:23
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The thread has gone quiet, so I'll bump this to the top. Right now with tax return season upon us and cabin fever driving us to our wits end that has meant that right now is the busiest time of year for hobby retailers and manufacturers. It's hard to gauge from a year ago but this seems to be as strong of a start as it's ever been. We've decided to take on the scaler/crawler segment which has been a pretty big undertaking. We've ordered a little over 800 different Axial SKUs, tons of Pro-Line stuff, and I'm chewing away at a Vanquish products order that will be awesome to get in. Part of this means getting a little more educated in this segment so I had a new RR10 Bomber from Axial follow me home. It immediately had new electronics thrown in (ESC, motor, servo, BEC, radio) and a couple of aluminum pieces. Next step will be Vanquish wheels, links, knuckles & hubs in the next week or two. Also krushgroove the rumors are heavy and flying everywhere. In the midst of all that I hope it works out for the best. The people of HPI Europe are wildly talented and hopefully getting unshackled will do you all some good. Edit: I've apparently dicked up the link to the photo. I'm phone posting so I'll need to sort this out later. Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 03:56
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Also krushgroove the rumors are heavy and flying everywhere. In the midst of all that I hope it works out for the best. The people of HPI Europe are wildly talented and hopefully getting unshackled will do you all some good. But that aside I'm at the Neo race this weekend, working the camera, computer, mic, food, whatever...if you want to watch some top class nitro buggy racing the live stream is on Neobuggy.com, and there's daily video interviews and updates as well.
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Mar 26, 2016 14:39
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Almost finished with my LST XXL electric conversion. Ran into a significant snag, though; the motor, mount, and ESC I bought over a year ago don't fit the new conversion kit.  I started the conversion before the LST2-E was announced. The original conversion kit didn't include a different chassis and was out of stock everywhere to begin with. So, I had bought my motor and esc with the expectation of fitting them all on my current chassis. However, the motor mount I needed was from TDR and he was out of stock until just recently and I was unable to figure out a way to mount the battery mounts I had and also couldn't find any for sale that would fit (this may have just been me being bad at searching). I bought the TDR motor mount and single-speed conversion hub when it came in because I needed to do that anyway. While I was waiting for all that to come in, I found that Losi released an official new conversion kit with better weight distribution. It also came with some parts I was needing, anyway (battery mount and forward-only transmission), so I bought it. Finished assembling everything today only to discover that the new chassis has different mounting points for the motor mount so the one from TDR wouldn't fit. The ESC I bought didn't have little screw spots on to the sides so it wouldn't fit on the ESC mount with the new conversion kit. The motor I had didn't quite fit right with the conversion motor mount so I was unable to attach it to the chassis with a good gear mesh. After everything I went through, it would have cost just as much to buy the new electric version right when it came out.  Not all is lost, because I definitely learned a lot about the way the truck is built which will be helpful when something breaks in the future. That's what I dislike most about RTR-only kit releases. I love building these things and figuring out how they work. When I didn't have to build it and I have to replace something that broke, it can be a challenge figuring out how to take things apart and put them back together with the blueprint-like manual.
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Mar 26, 2016 17:12
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Bagarthach posted:So I pulled my stock Clodbuster out of a box in the garage after 10+ years and got it up and running again, but I forgot how much slop there is in the steering. What are the current options for stiffening that up? I already have a higher torque servo on the shopping list (and just bought a new battery - the spending begins!) But most of the twisting seems to be in the stock plastic servo saver. Looking around, the only upgrade I can find is the Crawford aluminum kit:
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Mar 26, 2016 21:06
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InitialDave posted:Is mounting a servo direct on each axle an option? It is an option, and I looked into it, but decided to keep the clod stock. It's my last "vintage" kit - it even still has the mechanical speed control. Lots of new stuff in the last 10 years...I discovered that battery cutoff is a thing that exists now. Unfortunately, I discovered this when it cut power to my throttle servo while running. No damage since it wasn't going very fast with a low battery, but it was a confusing few seconds because I knew I wasn't out of range and couldn't figure out why it was still going. Note to self: find my old AM radio and only use that with the Clod. So instead of upgrading the Clod, I did this:  Wraith Sidewinder SV3 Savox 1230 Castle BEC Castlelink (programmable ESCs! How cool is that?) Cheap 55T motor (since I've never used a 55T and don't know how slow they are yet) and some tires for my other car since this is what happens to tires in long term storage  This should keep me busy for a few days...  (Wild Willy trying to sneak in the shot.)
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Mar 28, 2016 00:32
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Pic of my goods that I couldn't figure out how to post earlier: krushgroove posted:Thanks, yeah we're hopeful things will work out. Can't say much at the moment except it doesn't affect just HPI Europe, that's a common misconception by a lot of people. But basically as long as we have jobs it doesn't really matter who owns the brand. It's highly profitable so something will get sorted out. Yeah - I don't expect anyone to do much talking. It only makes sense that everyone would be affected; there is not much going on with HPI USA anyhow, HPI EU seems to be the central hub of most goings on now. Like I said, you have a talented crew out there and I think that the brand will benefit from this. Take a look at Axial and how things worked out for them when ownership changed to Hobbico ~3 years ago or whatever it was. Extremely talented people but a lack of cash flow limited them. NEO race has been awesome! Great reviews and coverage as usual! Bagarthach posted:instead of upgrading the Clod, I did this: Use your CastleLink to adjust the voltage output on your BEC too before hooking it up. I would probably set it between 6.5V or 7V for that particular servo. Castle Link is pretty slick! I have the field programmer which you can get when you buy one of their "premium" ESC's for like $10 so you can adjust everything out in the field, or you can just plug it in via USB to your computer and it works the same as the cable. Good call on adding the BEC because the stock unit of the SV3 is not gonna cut it.
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Mar 28, 2016 22:01
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Sorry missed the clod question. My good friend Travis Sutton (Sutton Motorsports) makes a fantastic Behind the Axle mount for the clod which many of us monster truck racers use on our race trucks, like mine below. Not a great pic for the steering but you can see how the servo mounts backwards on the axle.  For an old school clod most of use a Crawford Performance Engineering vertical servo mount, as seen on my friends bigfoot replica here.  The stock clod's steering is such trash that unless its strictly a shelf queen it needs to be replaced. Also, in regards to the rumors I really hope you guys are ok and left to do what you do Krushgroove. The hobby needs HPI. ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 14:49
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Yeah - I don't expect anyone to do much talking. It only makes sense that everyone would be affected; there is not much going on with HPI USA anyhow, HPI EU seems to be the central hub of most goings on now. ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Also, in regards to the rumors I really hope you guys are ok and left to do what you do Krushgroove. The hobby needs HPI. quote:Like I said, you have a talented crew out there and I think that the brand will benefit from this. Take a look at Axial and how things worked out for them when ownership changed to Hobbico ~3 years ago or whatever it was. Extremely talented people but a lack of cash flow limited them. Somewhat Heroic posted:NEO race has been awesome! Great reviews and coverage as usual!
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Mar 29, 2016 15:20
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This is sort of out of left field but I figure I'd ask since I know several of you are road racers - a couple months ago I purchased an ARTR X-Ray F1 car (justoc blinky esc and 21.5 motor w/ short 2S that fits chassis) off r/c tech with the intention of racing f1. With all my monster truck stuff coupled with helping out big squid I just don't have time to race F1 so I have a perfectly fine race car that I probably need to unload. I'd make a hell of a deal if anyone was interested. $275 shipped. Just add an RX and change the spur gear (it's missing a couple teeth from the previous owner). Has 2 bodies and a few extra x-ray parts. Outside of the spur its in fantastic condition.
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Mar 29, 2016 15:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Dear thread, what's your favorite method for discharging / disposing of old RC lipos? I've got some ~five year old hardcases that are swelling enough to nearly pop the case halves apart, so I'm calling them done and ordering some replacements. Most clubs have battery recycling, or your local tip/waste transfer station
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Mar 30, 2016 01:59
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Hmmmm... I apparently need to cut open a computer cord to hook up its wires to the power supply I have for my charger. Is there anything I need to watch out for other than making sure I put the right wire on the right lead?
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Mar 30, 2016 05:05
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Kibner posted:Hmmmm... I apparently need to cut open a computer cord to hook up its wires to the power supply I have for my charger. Is there anything I need to watch out for other than making sure I put the right wire on the right lead? What brand of power supply is it?
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Mar 30, 2016 12:58
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You Am I posted:What brand of power supply is it? YDS. This one specifically: http://www.ydspower.com/switching-power-supply/single-output-switching-power-supply-yds12-200.html Kibner fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 14:52
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Progress after one day. Going pretty smoothly, a few misID'd screws in the manual, but I figured it out. A sharp eye will notice the screws on the diff cover sticking out. I rounded over both ends of two different 1.5mm hex tools, so the build is on hold until these guys come in... 
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Mar 31, 2016 01:14
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Kibner posted:YDS. This one specifically: http://www.ydspower.com/switching-power-supply/single-output-switching-power-supply-yds12-200.html Never seen anyone use those at the track. Most people go for stuff like this: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Power-Products-Electrical/Power-Supply/Laboratory-Bench/13-8VDC-0-to-12-Amp-Regulated-Power-Supply/p/MP3079 Or stuff by Much More
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Mar 31, 2016 02:08
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I got the same set for the same reason. They have worked great. ---- I found a pre-stripped power cord at the local hardware store, so that made everything easy. Now my countertop looks like a frankenstein lab charging these batteries.
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Mar 31, 2016 02:09
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You Am I posted:Never seen anyone use those at the track. Most people go for stuff like this: It came with my order from Kershaw Designs last year. I got it all working now, though, so I'm happy.
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Mar 31, 2016 02:10
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You Am I posted:Never seen anyone use those at the track. Most people go for stuff like this: I remember seeing those at the track for a long time, before the purpose-made RC power supplies started showing up. (showing my age a bit?)
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Mar 31, 2016 08:42
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There's someone locally who is converting power supplies pulled from 1U servers - quieter fans, some bullet connectors, and some vinyl wrap. I use a garbage-tier ATX PSU I converted myself years ago. The cost of the "purpose built" RC power supplies is just waaaaay too high.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:31
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I bought an Xmaxx. It's heaps of fun. I also found a metal pole buried in a snow drift!  RIP in peace 
EduardoEspecial fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Mar 31, 2016 |
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Mar 31, 2016 22:36
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drat dude. That's a serious crash.
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Mar 31, 2016 23:20
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Holy poo poo. That's just impressive. Just full-speed into it on the ground, or jumped into it at a high speed? I'd honestly send an email to Traxxas - you never know if they have a PR guy who'll take pity on you  Its a long shot, but, hey.
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Apr 1, 2016 00:50
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Wow, mid chassis, front chassis, and basically all the front suspension/driveline?
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Apr 1, 2016 01:27
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Full speed into what I thought was a soft snow drift! Pretty much all the plastic in the middle of the front structure was trashed. Bent a shock shaft. Diff and drive shaft seemed ok, so were the a arms and everything else outboard of that.
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Apr 1, 2016 02:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's someone locally who is converting power supplies pulled from 1U servers - quieter fans, some bullet connectors, and some vinyl wrap. I use a garbage-tier ATX PSU I converted myself years ago. The cost of the "purpose built" RC power supplies is just waaaaay too high. Most of the RC guys in Australia are electricians and they have a shitfit if they see a converted PC power supply used for powering chargers/tyre warmers/USB kettle
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Apr 1, 2016 03:54
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The best about Traxxas cars is that all of the parts to fix that is like $4.17 (except the chassis plate, that might actually cost something)
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Apr 1, 2016 14:33
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I'm not expecting parts to be expensive. Waiting for them is killing me though. The place I bought it from has no replacement parts in stock.
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Apr 1, 2016 18:00
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Could someone explain kV ratings when it comes to brushless motors? I've looked around online but all I find are wannabe electrical engineers arguing over minutiae. Specifically, I'm wondering what makes a specific kV suitable for specific applications. I'm looking to put this in a 1/8 buggy. Nothing competitive, just playing around on dirt and asphalt.
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Apr 3, 2016 23:44
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Mr. Apollo posted:Could someone explain kV ratings when it comes to brushless motors? I've looked around online but all I find are wannabe electrical engineers arguing over minutiae. Long story short, kV rating tells you how many RPM's the motor will try to spin with a given amount of voltage applied. Its a really basic, not-100% explanation, but it works. So, if you had the same battery/ESC on a 3000kV motor and a 5000kV motor, the 5000 would spin faster. There's more to it than that, but it gives you a "pie in the sky" explanation. As to what would work best for your buggy - do you want more top end (higher kV rating), or a little more "torque" (lower kV rating). Note, this isn't directly related - its not that it really has more torque, but it has to fight less to spin at a given speed, so a lower kV will go through its range faster, so it accelerates a little quicker. There are a ton of other factors, but that's a really basic one. So, if you are wanting just flat-out top end, higher kV. If its more turning and needing to accelerate/feel a bit more responsive, go a little lower. Someone who knows this poo poo a bit more, please feel free to correct me, but I think I have at least something of a handle on this stuff :P
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Apr 4, 2016 00:10
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Siochain posted:Long story short, kV rating tells you how many RPM's the motor will try to spin with a given amount of voltage applied. Its a really basic, not-100% explanation, but it works.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:27
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Mr. Apollo posted:Thanks, this is exactly the kind of explanation I was looking for. Is there a sweet spot/range/popular choice for 1/8 buggies if you're not doing anything competitive with them? General guideline would be to see what RTR kits of the type you're interested in use.
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Apr 4, 2016 01:18
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krushgroove posted:General guideline would be to see what RTR kits of the type you're interested in use. This exactly. Speaking of motors - what's everyone's opinion on the Turnigy stuff from HobbyKing? Worth a drat, or just cheap crap? I'm wanting to grab a waterproof 1/10th brushless for my Twin Hammers, and curious if they'd be worth it. If not, I'll look elsewhere. That, and tax return season is coming. I want something fun. I've got a 1/8th scale 2wd buggy, SCX10, and a Vaterra Twin Hammers. I'm thinking something a little more bashy, or something I can make a little more bashy. I'd love to go 1/5th and get a gasser, but that's out of my price range. So - 1/8th 4wd truggy? SCT (Slash, Yeti Score)? Monster truck of some sort? Kit or RTR, not decided yet. Throw me some recommendations. What kit or RTR would you buy to play with given what I have? Siochain fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 01:36
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krushgroove posted:General guideline would be to see what RTR kits of the type you're interested in use. Siochain posted:This exactly.
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Apr 4, 2016 01:38
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Siochain posted:Kit or RTR, not decided yet. Throw me some recommendations. Totally biased here, but I prefer kits since building the kit really helps me understand how everything works so I can diagnose issues quicker and more accurately.
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Apr 4, 2016 02:17
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You can get a Losi Mini WRC for less than $900 shipped. Do the needful and get a 1/5
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Apr 4, 2016 03:27
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Somewhat Heroic posted:You can get a Losi Mini WRC for less than $900 shipped. Do the needful and get a 1/5 I would, but that's $900 US. Which for us Canadians is like $250,000 atm hahah. Still tempting though. What're your thoughts on the Arma Kraton? Doing a lot of reading, and it seems up my alley. 1/8th scale, somewhere between a truggy and a monster truck. Seems tough as hell, fast, at least some aftermarket support, etc.
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Apr 6, 2016 00:56
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The Traxxas X-Maxx looks really cool but I'm hearing some complaints about people trashing the diffs because the gears are all plastic.
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Apr 6, 2016 12:47
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So my 72 year old father in law is a bit of a geek and when I told him he should get a boat for the man made pond just outside his back yard his eyes lit up like a 5 year old on Christmas eve. Is there a "decent" boat for beginners? Hovercraft maybe? I'd like to keep it under $300.
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Apr 6, 2016 14:24
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