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ImplicitAssembler posted:I ended up with one of these: I really like your OSD. I don't understand much about them. How did you get it?
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Mar 29, 2016 18:02
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Got new (bigger) motors on my Morphite V2 and can now use Dal Triblade which are awesome. They can take a beating and you just keep on flying (as you can see in the video!). Whats with your Mah counter? it goes from 1500 - 8000 during this flight. Did you have a really huge pack on there?
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Mar 29, 2016 18:32
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Flavor Truck posted:I really like your OSD. I don't understand much about them. How did you get it? It's a (micro) Minimosd. http://blog.oscarliang.net/minimosd-micro-setup-naze32-pid-rssi/ bring back old gbs posted:Whats with your Mah counter? it goes from 1500 - 8000 during this flight. Did you have a really huge pack on there? Yeah, I was attempting to use the software mAh counter, not realizing that it really doesn't do that well with microquads. In order for it work reliably, you really need a proper current sensor/power module. ..but as it's a micro-minimOSD and buried deep inside the innards of my Morphite, it's kind a pain to change and I just ignore it. I found the artificial horizon invaluable when learning to fly, especially once I started tilting up the camera. I put the camera back at level when I started flying in that parking garage, but are now going fast enough that I need to angle it up again, so I'll keep it for now.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:32
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It's a (micro) Minimosd. I am looking into the MinimOSD specifically for that mah counter on my 130-150 builds. I just want to watch a number start at 0 count up so when I see it reach ~800 or so I know to land. Is MinimOSD no good for that? I've seen some in-line XT-60 "current sensor" things but they look big, like they're for 500+ APM type rigs. Combat Pretzel posted:Did you draw these cuts outs by hand or is there an automagic function in Solidworks for this? bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 20:01
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Did you draw these cuts outs by hand or is there an automagic function in Solidworks for this?
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Mar 29, 2016 23:26
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Man I really need to just buy some cheap 3D printer with my tax return this year. Ordering 3D printed parts online feels so unfulfilling. Just wanted to get one of those V shape antenna separators for my ZMR250 and I can buy it online but mehhhh.... Also, pulled the 250 out for the first time this year. I am so abysmally awful at LOS piloting. The second it turns around I seem to lose all bearings and it's just panic time. I don't want to jump right into FPV but I feel like FPV is what I'm missing -- always seeing the flight from the front of the quad. My brain can't make the leap to piloting in reverse, so to speak. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 00:19
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Put a LED strip on it. Or two with different colors. Like white in front and red on the rear.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:28
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Martytoof posted:
So, is it the changing orientation/controls that is getting you?.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:56
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I practice LOS flying with a little quad I can zip around my house at breakneck speed. After that, it's no big deal to pilot a 250 class in an open field. Learning LOS is actually pretty vital to becoming good at FPV, because FPV relies on being able to always keep the nose pointed in the direction of travel and it's not terribly instinctive with a quad. I started learning FPV after I had already learned how to do coordinated turns in LOS.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:03
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, is it the changing orientation/controls that is getting you?. That's what got me at first, and still does from time to time. Turning "my controls are now reversed" into instant muscle memory. I still get into situations where if I lose orientation and dot have the room to do a few test dodges to figure out where it's pointed It's basically a lost cause.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:10
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, is it the changing orientation/controls that is getting you?. Definitely changing orientation.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:41
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I recommend getting a copy of RC Pro Am on the NES and just settling in for a weekend of nothing but that.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:46
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Martytoof posted:Definitely changing orientation. I was trying to find the RC helicopter guide I used, but had no luck. Basically it consists of a bunch of very basic flying in various orientations: Flying in squares keeping the tail-in (rear pointed towards you. Same in nose-in, left side, right side. Then when that is solid., you start flying with the square with the nose pointing the direction you are going. Then do the same backwards. Then circles, then figure-8s. It's very boring, but with a bit of discipline and flying a little bit every day, you can get it locked in a week. Much of this can be done a sim as well. Just be glad you don't have to learn to do it inverted as you do with helis  I did this when I first started out with my MCPX. I would be disciplined for a battery or 2, then I would try 'normal' flying, crash it, often break something and then try again next day. With more discipline, I would have learnt faster
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Mar 30, 2016 02:02
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Combat Pretzel posted:Did you draw these cuts outs by hand or is there an automagic function in Solidworks for this? There probably is a tool but I did these by hand. Sadly this is looking at the bottom of that plate. There will be two with the hollow sides in the center of the sandwich.
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Mar 30, 2016 03:13
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Golluk posted:Are they just those black rubber duckies like you see on routers? Or are you looking at soldering on a connector? I picked up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-S...ailpage_o03_s01 After drilling a new hole on the remote for the connector, I soldered the antenna and ground wires to (hopefully) the proper areas on the board. It was a pretty easy mod and hopefully I can test it out this week and see how it performs.
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Mar 30, 2016 09:03
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helno posted:There probably is a tool but I did these by hand. Also, I need to figure out Solidworks' electrical routing so that I can plan wiring into it this time around. I was about to abort the current full plastic frame, thinking it'd end up heavier than necessary, but turns out CRP has a higher density than PLA or even PETG.
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Mar 30, 2016 11:51
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This kinda looks like a knockoff Headplay: http://us.banggood.com/Eachine-Goggles-One-5-Inch-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-HD-1080p-72-Degree-HDMI-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-p-1043694.html
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Mar 30, 2016 17:45
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Martytoof posted:Man I really need to just buy some cheap 3D printer with my tax return this year. Ordering 3D printed parts online feels so unfulfilling. Just wanted to get one of those V shape antenna separators for my ZMR250 and I can buy it online but mehhhh.... I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Rostock-Printer-Extruder-Materials/dp/B00Y9UKYGW at that price it was hard to not buy it. It was a fairly easy build.
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Mar 30, 2016 18:51
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Yeah, I just bought a Geeeeeeetech Prusa i3 kit from banggood. Hope it's not a pain in the rear end to put together. I know a bunch of people with the i3's and they're happy enough. I was thinking about that rostock style printer but to be completely honest I couldn't find a single sample image of a 3d printed item that didn't look like rear end (not that I think it's not capable of better) so I just went with the safe route.
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Mar 30, 2016 20:50
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Martytoof posted:Yeah, I just bought a Geeeeeeetech Prusa i3 kit from banggood. Hope it's not a pain in the rear end to put together. I know a bunch of people with the i3's and they're happy enough. I was thinking about that rostock style printer but to be completely honest I couldn't find a single sample image of a 3d printed item that didn't look like rear end (not that I think it's not capable of better) so I just went with the safe route. Good choice. Hopefully they have a raft of build videos like they do for the rostock. It was an easy build followed by lots of tweaking and a pretty big learning curve trying to design and print stuff. After a few weeks I've found 3D printing to be ... invigorating. So easy to make interesting little widgets. Need more widgets. My experience so far is that people with a lot of time to tune stuff get good results regardless of the form of the printer. I saw some nice rostock prints at CES in January and went with rostock because it looks cool. I could spew logical reasons, but it really came down to nerd aesthetics. During setup, it was a little weird to be compiling arduino stuff (after editing config file). It was also very difficult to suppress the need to fix the compiler complaints. The source files are a bit linty and I'm a big fan of squeaky clean compiles. Such is life. Now I'm eyeballing some PETG printing for making the -perfect- frame and arms. But first - new landing gear for the DAL235 I hard landed this weekend. I'm going to copy the ones in the diatone kits because they look more formidable.
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Mar 30, 2016 21:26
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I have browsed the last 10 pages or so, and the OP seems to be very old. I have never flown a quad before. I would love to get in to DIY building, or get a basic setup that I can modify. I have a CNC Mill, lathe, and 3d printer, and the thought of making cool frames or spare parts interests me. I would like something small, and possibly with FPV capabilities eventually. So far, the choice that has stood out for a good intro to the hobby is a Hubsan X4. Are there any other units I can look at? A kit would be ideal since I love making things, but a decent prebuilt machine that I can pull apart and upgrade/modify would also be great.
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Mar 30, 2016 21:45
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Combat Pretzel posted:Any particular reason you did these? I'd figure for stability, not doing these and using infill would make things more stable? Or is it just for looks? It is going to be milled out of 3mm CF and there will be two plates making it 6mm thick. If it was solid it would be very heavy and not much stronger than this. Brekelefuw posted:I have a CNC Mill, lathe, and 3d printer, and the thought of making cool frames or spare parts interests me. Just design your own if you have a mill and a 3d printer. Start off buy just making a ZMR 250 type frame and go from there.
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Mar 30, 2016 23:47
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What do you want to do with the quad? If you're looking at upgrading/modifying a unit you'll likely want to just build your own from a kit or from scratch, but depending on what you want to do will affect the recommendations you get. If you want to race or do tricks then you probably want a smaller 250 H-style quad kit. If you just want to fly to dick around then you can go with a 250 H-style or a larger X-style. If you want to carry an actual quality camera you probably want a DJI machine. I skipped the Hubsan phase just because I knew quadcopters interested me and I wanted to build one, so I figured that I wouldn't spend the money on a Hubsan just to build my own a month later.
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Mar 30, 2016 23:48
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Martytoof posted:What do you want to do with the quad? If you're looking at upgrading/modifying a unit you'll likely want to just build your own from a kit or from scratch, but depending on what you want to do will affect the recommendations you get. If you want to race or do tricks then you probably want a smaller 250 H-style quad kit. If you just want to fly to dick around then you can go with a 250 H-style or a larger X-style. If you want to carry an actual quality camera you probably want a DJI machine. I would like to get up to being able to use a headset and fly around like the racers do, but I don't think i would race against others or anything. Are there any good Canadian suppliers? Toronto is ideal so I can talk to retailers in person.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:29
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Brekelefuw posted:I would like to get up to being able to use a headset and fly around like the racers do, but I don't think i would race against others or anything. nghobbies is just about the only walk in store that sells multirotor stuff. They're so far up north I have never been. Autobotix and Rotorgeeks are around there too, I don't know if they have a "retail store" or just an office. Johns Hobbies is a bit more central but is mostly geared towards planes and cars. Armattan and AirbladeUAV are from BC and sell mini stuff, I like Armattan a lot. They lifetime warranty their carbon fiber frames, break an arm and you'll get a free replacement. Can't really speak to AirbladeUAV's frame quality, but I've bought some motors from them and they shipped quick.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:43
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Paul from Autobotix (recently changed to https://www.fpvracingparts.com) hosts the odd beginner friendly night. There is a rather large group of FPV racers in Toronto, just look of toronto fpv on facebook. Since you have a 3d printer and a CNC mill you will suddenly find yourself with lots of friends wanting parts. If you want to see some stuff in person there is a race this coming weekend. http://fpvracingevents.com/spring-fling-drone-race/ It's a bit of a hike from Toronto (1.5 hours from Pearson) but seeing these things in person will give you plenty of ideas. Edit: Progress. 
helno fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Mar 31, 2016 |
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Mar 31, 2016 03:31
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I have been interested in quadcopters (or multirotors really) and FPV for a while and lately have been doing research trying to figure out most things on my own. I have been reading this thread (gotten to about page 60 ) but there are so many abbreviations and hobby specific terms i haven't learned much. Not a critizism of the thread, merely pointing out my own inexperience. I have a bunch of questions i haven't been able to find the answers to and i hope someone can help me out. A big part of my interest in this topic is composing and building my own drone. It doesn't have to be entirely self composed and can be a kit/bundle but i am not interested in RTF or ARF. I live in a small country so product availability is quite limited (i would like to buy locally) based on this and what activities i am interested in i have concluded on getting either: A 250 "racer" quadcopter or the DJI F450 The DJI F450 can be bought for ~$770 with everything needed to fly. A 250 quad will cost me about ~$400, but does not include transmitter or receiver. Based on what is available here this will be an another ~$300-350, meaning a 250 quad and a DJI F450 with the same flying capabilitites will be virtually the same price. (The DJI will have GPS and such in addition though, the 250 can do nothing but buzz around) In a sense this makes the DJI a better deal (?) FPV gear comes extra on both. The DJI system seems quite proprietary. If i go for the DJI, do i have to use the DJI DT7 radio or can i use e.g Taranis X9D, Turnigy 6x or Turnigy 9XR? These are the only transmitters i have seen mentioned in this thread that are available here. The DJI DT7 is quite expensive and at only 6 channels doesn't leave a lot of room to grow into. Do i have to use their FPV kit or can i use any tvl camera/transmitter? If i can use non-DJI stuff, are they hard to configure for the DJI? From what i understand a racer drone wants a tvl camera for analog signal as there is less latency with this and the racers needs low latency to be able to race around. However on a slower DJI F450 you can use live feed from a GoPro for FPV. Is this an accurate assessment? If i mainly want to float around, strafe, fly, sight-see, as opposed to race through oval gates, which system should i go for? Will a 250 "racing" drone work for this or is a size quad like the DJI F450 the go-to platform for such activities? I am not really after the speed aspect but i am interested in getting the sense of flying, not just coasting along always horizontally. I would also not mind a system that lets me keep expanding and upgrading it, such as longer flight time, faster speeds, longer range. My family have 4 summer houses/cabins up in the mountains and/or in extremely sparsely populated areas, and theres plenty of areas there i would like to fly around in and explore. TL;DR: Want to fly FPV quad. What do?
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Mar 31, 2016 12:32
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Have you looked at some of the kits from http://www.miniquadbros.com/ or flitetest? they are an easy way to get into fpv. If you want to go slow, a phantom 3 standard can be had for far less than a f450 kit, and all you need is a phone or tablet (gently caress, they had the p3 pro for $780 the other day). Those aren't really designed to be fpv craft but that didn't stop me from using a p2 to explore.
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Mar 31, 2016 17:45
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Ineptitude posted:words The DJI one, like most of their drones, is meant for aerial photography and not really "FPV flying". I mean I guess it could be FPV in a loose sense but it is totally unlike flying a 250 racing quad FPV.
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Mar 31, 2016 17:53
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Well, there's lots of deals to be had on secondhand 450 sized equipment as everyone seems to be bailing out of that format...either going bigger (600+) or smaller to 250 or below. I think with the 450 format, you are always going to be fairly limited in what you can upgrade, whereas with the 600+, you have more options: Here's a fairly cheap option for a 30min+ 650 quad: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2025307 For mini-quads, the best guides, etc are found here: http://blog.oscarliang.net/ For what to choose, it really depends on what you want to do. Pretty pictures, go big. Fly close (and possibly fast), go small. I think trying to do both will just lead to disappointment
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Mar 31, 2016 18:10
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FPV chat: I've been hemming and hawing over buying a FatShark headset, and am getting extremely close to just doing it. Is there any other real option, like a decent LCD panel with analog inputs, or should I just break down and buy the damned headset?
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Mar 31, 2016 18:10
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I have a Headplay, and I have been extremely pleased with it. I tend to lean towards more flow flying as opposed to racing, so the extra real estate is nice. About the same price as the v2 Dom, much better resolution, and it fits over my glasses. Downside, it's pretty huge, but still light weight. Disclaimer, I don't have any experience with Fatshark stuff.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:22
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MrYenko posted:FPV chat: I've been hemming and hawing over buying a FatShark headset, and am getting extremely close to just doing it. Is there any other real option, like a decent LCD panel with analog inputs, or should I just break down and buy the damned headset? I have a Quanum V2 headset. I have used a friends Domiantor HDs and another friend's Headplays. The Quanum's are cheap, and do their job. They are nothing fancy, but I can see everything going on, but had to move my eyes. Dominator HDs, I felt like I was looking at postage stamps and while I could see everything without moving my eyes, I could really see any of it well. Headplays make you feel like you are sitting up on the quad since it completely surrounds you, but you have to move your eyes around to focus on what you are flying towards. For what its worth, the friend with the Dominator HDs sold them after about a week, he is using his old quanum set again, and we have both got Headplays on order from rangevideo. No idea what they are like, but you can get a pretty cheap headset from eachine. http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-4_3-Inch-With-7_4V-800mAh-Battery-p-960761.html And they have a new version coming out with the same size screen as the Quanum V2. http://www.gothelirc.com/products/3166-eachine-goggles-one-5-inches-58g-40ch-raceband-hd-1080p-hdmi-fpv-goggles-video-glasses/
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Mar 31, 2016 19:11
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I have dominators and head plays and the head plays are a ton clearer and more comfortable and can take HDMI in so I can lay in bed with them on and watch movies like a futuristic piece of poo poo. However, since listening to the drone vibes podcast with braindrain (second place at world drone prix) who said nobody can race with head plays because the latency is too high, I will forever blame my crashes on the latency probably switch back to my dominators.
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Mar 31, 2016 19:15
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Wojcigitty posted:I have dominators and head plays and the head plays are a ton clearer and more comfortable and can take HDMI in so I can lay in bed with them on and watch movies like a futuristic piece of poo poo. If latency is a problem, have you changed from CPPM to SBUS on everything yet?  http://blog.oscarliang.net/ppm-sbus-d4r-ii-x4r-sb/
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Mar 31, 2016 19:23
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MrYenko posted:Is there any other real option, like a decent LCD panel with analog inputs, I prefer using a screen. I got a 7" screen with a battery and diversity RX built in. It takes external analog input if you need to use different RX. 
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Mar 31, 2016 21:24
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I have fat sharks, I prefer a screen. But I liked the quanum I tried so I'd probably love headplays. I don't really like the lack of personal & immediate situational awareness you get with a head mounted set, but whatever.
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Mar 31, 2016 22:20
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helno posted:I prefer using a screen. I got a 7" screen with a battery and diversity RX built in. It takes external analog input if you need to use different RX. How are you mounting that screen to the transmitter? Is it part of the kit or a DIY thing? My screen is held on with electrical tape and velcro and I'd like to get it looking a little more professional if there are specific clamps or mounts.
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Apr 1, 2016 08:34
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Have you looked at some of the kits from http://www.miniquadbros.com/ or flitetest? they are an easy way to get into fpv. If you want to go slow, a phantom 3 standard can be had for far less than a f450 kit, and all you need is a phone or tablet (gently caress, they had the p3 pro for $780 the other day). Those aren't really designed to be fpv craft but that didn't stop me from using a p2 to explore. Thanks. I should have specified in more detail but i am limited to shopping from local sites; https://www.dronehandelen.no https://www.elefun.no https://www.tingsomflyr.com n.. posted:The DJI one, like most of their drones, is meant for aerial photography and not really "FPV flying". I mean I guess it could be FPV in a loose sense but it is totally unlike flying a 250 racing quad FPV. I was under the impression that 450 drones were a nice mix between the speed and agility of racing drones and stability of larger drones. In the beginning i am primarliy looking for a drone type i can fly around with and get the sense of flying but not necessarily at racing speeds. That is the main reason i had DJI F450 as an option. I am also under the impression that the Phantom line of DJI drones are pure video platforms that always fly horizontally (and thus are a bit boring). These impressions are just based on youtube vids and such, not personal experience. ImplicitAssembler posted:Well, there's lots of deals to be had on secondhand 450 sized equipment as everyone seems to be bailing out of that format...either going bigger (600+) or smaller to 250 or below. Alright, the upgradeability and limits of the 450 size is something to consider. I really like the idea of gradually upgrading the components, putting on more components and expanding the capabilities of the system i choose as i gain confidence in my flying abilities and a clearer picture of what i actually want to do with the drone. A long term goal would be for example aerial videos of my grandfathers home village. He is an old guy now and is confined to his home for the most part, i am sure he would appreciate seeing his village again, particularly from the air as that is a viewpoint he has not observed it from before. Ineptitude fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Apr 1, 2016 |
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Apr 1, 2016 11:22
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Eh, I have a custom 425 with 8 inch bullnose props, a 4S battery and BLHeli ESCs with active braking. The thing is surprisingly nimble and twitchy. Of course, more weight more inertia. I could shave off some more weight by reprinting the parts in PLA instead of PETG, but I rather not spend all that time printing.
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Apr 1, 2016 14:46
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