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The Door Frame posted:If I'm looking at a project car (~$12,000 budget over 2-4 years), how stupid is it to buy a rolling chassis and basically build an entirely new car inside the body of one from the late 70's/early 80's? None of this is realistic except for E21/E30 with an M50, or mayby a Z car with an LS.* The jap import idea is a vastly better one if I'm reading you right. *:unless you have a briefcase full of money
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Mar 31, 2016 05:45
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Ok, so my idea is generally terrible. Good to know before I started trawling eBay and Hemmings with my PayPal at the ready Slavvy posted:None of this is realistic except for E21/E30 with an M50, or mayby a Z car with an LS.* The jap import idea is a vastly better one if I'm reading you right. I think I misspoke, not a true LS1, but a first generation LS series engine. Probably a light truck engine, or whatever else I can find in my local autowreckers. I would be happy with 285hp instead of 315hp if it saved me $5k. There's a surprising amount of aftermarket support for even the uglier 2+2 Z cars, and prefabbed a mounting kit for LS engines and a beefier transmission is less than $1k. And the engines and cars were in their respective order, Coyotes don't seem to get a lot of love in most modding scenes, but it seems better suited for the narrow engine bay in the Spider than what would probably end up being an engine out of a Buick SUV. But I digress, I have always wanted to do a 2.5l WRX engine in a 914/6, so I thought I would get some practice in before I start on my dream car, while also getting something slightly more practical for daily use out of it. I guess it's time to look into kit cars or get REALLY into Superior German Engineering
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Mar 31, 2016 08:21
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E30 with an M5# BMW engine is an achievable, cheap goal and fun learning experience.
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Mar 31, 2016 08:42
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The Door Frame posted:But I digress, I have always wanted to do a 2.5l WRX engine in a 914/6, so I thought I would get some practice in before I start on my dream car, while also getting something slightly more practical for daily use out of it. I guess it's time to look into kit cars or get REALLY into Superior German Engineering A car you really want to build will keep you motivated, too.
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Mar 31, 2016 20:17
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InitialDave posted:If you want to do it, why not just do it? Because a 914/6 is a tiny, 2 seater roadster and couldn't replace my Honda as a daily driver. Also, a turbo 2.5L WRX engine is not as easy to come by. Purchasing and installing it on a car that normally has an air cooled, rear mounted engine would be a not insignificant portion of my budget. Plus, I don't have the skills or equipment required to fix the super common rust issues that eat massive holes in structurally important parts of these cars. That's my Project Binky
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Mar 31, 2016 20:49
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Acura RSX Type-S, 2002, 2.0L, 83,000 miles (got it used in 2009 at 61,000 miles from super OCD lady for $9500, distances I have needed to drive have typically been quite short) Been noting some rattling at various RPMs (500, 1500, 1800) from the base of the car. Took it to the local Acura dealer today (poor decision, I know) for an oil change and to get it checked out. They tell me that the B-pipe is corroded and will need to be replaced. They also do their '22 point inspection' thing and claim that I've got dry rot on all 4 tires, so they all need to be replaced. Rear brakes are at 4mm, were at 5mm 16 months ago, so they'll need to be replaced probably in the next year. I checked the tires myself, and sure enough, they all have clear evidence of dry rot. Ugh, as tread-wise they're all totally fine. They quoted $850 for the exhaust pipe replacement, $500 for the tires (replace to Michelin continentals) +$100 for alignment, and $375 for the rear brakes, not including whatever service fee they'd tack onto that of course. KBB suggests the car is probably worth between 4000-6000 in good condition, which I would estimate it to be (outside of the aforementioned issues and scrapes on the back and front bumpers it's been doing just fine, and only has the aforementioned issues). I assume that I can probably get a much better quote on the exhaust replacement and brakes from a local mechanic. Tires are what they are, though I certainly wouldn't mind a recommendation about what tires to replace to. My main question though is whether or not the repair is worth it at this point, or if I should cut my losses and buy a new car. My original plan was to hopefully keep this car going for another 3-5 years before getting a new one, and plan to get a very nice car that I'd probably drive into the ground over 20 years, but if it doesn't make sense financially to maintain my current car, I have enough to swing either a new or used car up to $20,000 in cash. Would just really prefer to save that money toward the house down payment we're trying to put together.
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Apr 1, 2016 23:55
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You could probably change the brake pads yourself if the rotors are ok for $100 or less. Tires are ok but check tirerack and tirecrazy for your size. Local places will usually do $100 for mount and balance, $50 if sketchier place (usually ok just dirtier looking). Why wouldn't you fix it? Get the exhaust fixed at a muffler place instead of the dealer. Also, check rock auto for the part may be really cheap.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:00
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You're going to get rid of a low miles Honda with a good ownership history because of some exhaust work and basic maintenance? You should trade it for pennies on the dollar for some sort of new Chrysler with a 9 speed auto and pay 700 dollars a month for the next 6 years instead. (Just fix it Stupid)
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Apr 2, 2016 00:03
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Yeah, I assumed fixing was the right thing to do, but I don't actually know much about cars and expected repair costs down the line for the RSX are the main thing I can't really predict, so given the need for some relatively significant repairs, thought it was a good time to ask. Hopefully it's reasonable to assume that it'll last another 3-5 years.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:05
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You can probably get the exhaust done much cheaper elsewhere. I don't know what a B pipe is, but a bunch of crazy bends are basically the only thing that'll push the cost up. I'm curious if your tires are actually bad, too. RSX brakes aren't difficult, either. There were good videos of how to do it on youtube when I helped a friend with his several years ago.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:08
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Unless rust kills it, that's one of the most reliable vehicles you can own. They're really good cars and fun to drive. I would suggest educating yourself on the typical failure points at high mileage and set some cash aside to deal with them, but that advice applies to any car  I see them on Craigslist all the time with 150k plus miles.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:09
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Also you can just bin the stock exhaust and get a invidia q300 for header/exhaust combo for like 900 bux  and make some real noises
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Apr 2, 2016 00:10
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You loving dumbass, rusty exhaust and tires are something any car need at some point. You're not gaining anything by trading it in. Keep that reliable car.
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Apr 2, 2016 02:26
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I feel like we are being rough on someone in the "ask stupid questions" thread. But yeah keep that sweet rev machine dude
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Apr 2, 2016 02:39
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Yeah, thought this was the place to ask stupid questions. Felt like a stupid question, clearly is a stupid question, but it's ok. Believe me, I don't want to give up this car, it's done me good the last 7 years and can still consistently put a smile on my face. I'm going to get a 2nd opinion on the tires and a better quote on the exhaust repair and drive this car forever.
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Apr 2, 2016 02:52
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Figure out how to read the date code on the tires. Are they over 7 years old? If yes, replace them.Chu020 posted:Yeah, I assumed fixing was the right thing to do, but I don't actually know much about cars and expected repair costs down the line for the RSX are the main thing I can't really predict, so given the need for some relatively significant repairs, thought it was a good time to ask. Hopefully it's reasonable to assume that it'll last another 3-5 years. You can expect it to drive till at least 300k with just basic maintenance.
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Apr 2, 2016 03:20
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Its a good car to learn basic maintenance on too. Parts are cheap and its easier to work on than the later civics with the same engine, as the rsx has a longer hood making the engine bay a little easier to access.
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Apr 2, 2016 03:22
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Chu020 posted:Yeah, thought this was the place to ask stupid questions. Felt like a stupid question, clearly is a stupid question, but it's ok. Believe me, I don't want to give up this car, it's done me good the last 7 years and can still consistently put a smile on my face. I think the b-pipe on a rsx is referring to the middle pipe with resonator. A new one is $55 + shipping on rockauto, plus gaskets, and install. A local mechanic or exhaust shop could handle this for $100 install fee I'm sure, $200 total type thing. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1985538&jsn=3 The pads are about $30 a pair for front, rears $25, and rotors $25 for front and $25 for rear. You could get a whole set of hardware for $100 plus cost of install. Again $200-300 is reasonable here if paying a local mechanic to do this or you could easily do them yourself by reading online and be at $100 total. So yes fix the drat thing. All that stuff should be able to be done for $1000 or less. The mid pipe ratting is probably normal rust or a crack in the heat case.
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Apr 2, 2016 03:37
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I think I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. So I was working in a small town and a guy is selling a 90's(?) toyota supra turbo TRD for $2500 (could probably get it to $2k since I can get cash right away) I called up buddy and it has 380k km on it and need some work on the drive shaft, but I think the kid's dad was a mechanic so im sure it was taken decent care of the pop up headlights kinda scare me too I've been kinda looking for a project car or just something I can tinker with, but I want to be able to drive it most of the time too. I want to drive something (fun) to work everyday instead of my 2014 truck It's been winter driven a lot too an I haven't looked under the hood or looked under the car to see how rusty/worn poo poo is is it even worth my time? here's a picture  edit: its a 5 speed and it was driven up until last year (or at least insured, it had a sticker on the plate)
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Apr 2, 2016 15:01
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Dont know if this is a good thread for this question but here goes. I have a 99 ranger. I suspect I have a vaccum leak because when im driving with the dash vents on and hammer the gas pedal the vents switch to the floor vents. Then when I let off the gas they switch back to the dash vents. I have had no luck finding the vaccum leak, and Ive replaced the vaccum reservoir but it still has the same issue. So my question is, can I basically "cheat" the vents? By that I mean configure the vaccum lines so only the dash vents are on? I dont care about using the defroster or floor vents I live in AZ and can live without both.
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Apr 2, 2016 22:15
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I have a 2011 ford focus and it seems as if ford in their infinite wisdom has decided my car doesn't need a cabin air filter and a metal box with metal mesh is good enough, is there any after market options for cabin air filter boxes?
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Apr 3, 2016 00:13
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Charliegrs posted:Dont know if this is a good thread for this question but here goes. Did you check the vacuum actuator(s) under the dash that control that kind of thing for leaks? Because is sounds exactly like that.
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Apr 3, 2016 00:45
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I think I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. I would run over several women and children en route to picking up a car like that for $2500.
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Apr 3, 2016 01:01
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wargames posted:I have a 2011 ford focus and it seems as if ford in their infinite wisdom has decided my car doesn't need a cabin air filter and a metal box with metal mesh is good enough, is there any after market options for cabin air filter boxes? Are you sure it's not in front of the windshield on the passenger side? They hid it there VERY effectively on the first generation. I don't know if that carried over or not, but if so, expect all the plastic clips to be brittle and break.
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Apr 3, 2016 02:11
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Motronic posted:Did you check the vacuum actuator(s) under the dash that control that kind of thing for leaks? Because is sounds exactly like that. huh I never even thought of that. Ill check it out. Thanks!
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Apr 3, 2016 02:18
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Slavvy posted:I would run over several women and children en route to picking up a car like that for $2500. this isnt helping with my decision making! I really wanna get it but I also kinda wanna get an old pickup truck instead cause my truck has a short box and a toolbox and i'd like something with just a cab and a long box for carrying trash and sticks to the dump etc. I had an old '97 gmc 1500 that recently blew its head gasket and just sold it as is to a farmer for $500 and it would be nice to replace it, but this car is extremely tempting. I love cars but I have never worked a lot on them. I've done oil changes, road side tire changes, minor engine stuff but I love cars and want to get into them and I think this would be a good place to start. I don't know a lot about supras so I don't know if the engine and the whole power train I guess are known for lasting a long time and stuff like that. Basically I need convincing that buying another pickup is a worse idea than this car
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Apr 3, 2016 02:21
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You live in america (canada?). There will always be a huge stack of lovely old pick up trucks to choose from but they stopped making pop-up headlight supras a very long time ago and they breed pretty slow.
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Apr 3, 2016 03:01
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Slavvy posted:You live in america (canada?). There will always be a huge stack of lovely old pick up trucks to choose from but they stopped making pop-up headlight supras a very long time ago and they breed pretty slow. canada and that is a very good point, though a lot are being sold down south right now with our dollar collapsing along with oil, there are still tons are kijiji (classifieds thing canadians use)
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Apr 3, 2016 03:09
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I don't know a lot about supras so I don't know if the engine and the whole power train I guess are known for lasting a long time and stuff like that. Basically I need convincing that buying another pickup is a worse idea than this car Those came with a 7M-GTE in North America. By all accounts it's a pretty stout engine, somewhat less capable than the 1/2JZ family for max power dyno/dragstrip queen builds but I doubt you're going that route so it's a fine motor. get that car you mad fool
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Apr 3, 2016 03:12
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ahhhhh my heart is saying yes but my brain is saying no. I'll call the guy and do a meeting with him and start the car and make sure it doesn't sound terrible/frame isn't hosed/under the hood looks fine and if it all looks good I will probably get it.
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Apr 3, 2016 03:21
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Hot Karl Marx posted:ahhhhh my heart is saying yes but my brain is saying no. I'll call the guy and do a meeting with him and start the car and make sure it doesn't sound terrible/frame isn't hosed/under the hood looks fine and if it all looks good I will probably get it. If you aren't posting new pics of this Supra in your driveway in the next 72hrs I vote that you are permabanned.
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Apr 3, 2016 03:24
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LeeMajors posted:If you aren't posting new pics of this Supra in your driveway in the next 72hrs I vote that you are permabanned. I never said I was 100% going to buy it! It just seems perfect and like its meant to be so I'm hoping its not completely hosed. I'll call the guy tomorrow cause its 10:30 pm and I'm not calling him now lol
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Apr 3, 2016 03:27
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Charliegrs posted:Dont know if this is a good thread for this question but here goes. I just went through this. Just replace the vacuum booster line to right kick panel and the one from max a/c heater core shut off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tSFPSY19MI
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Apr 3, 2016 03:31
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Slavvy posted:I would run over several women and children en route to picking up a car like that for $2500. Yes this! Without an engine it is worth $2500
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Apr 3, 2016 03:32
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Godholio posted:Are you sure it's not in front of the windshield on the passenger side? They hid it there VERY effectively on the first generation. I don't know if that carried over or not, but if so, expect all the plastic clips to be brittle and break. That is where I looked, its a metal box glued to the car with a metal mesh over the top, no air filter what so ever.
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Apr 3, 2016 06:09
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wargames posted:That is where I looked, its a metal box glued to the car with a metal mesh over the top, no air filter what so ever. That piqued my curiosity, and googling brought me to this. Weird setup for sure, and there are probably several ways you could do this mod if you can't find the part that guy used.
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Apr 3, 2016 07:20
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I need to cut a rusty swaybar link off of my 2007 civic si. I know cheap HF grinders are up to the task, but what grinder discs should I buy? Obviously not HF murder wheels, I assume.
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Apr 3, 2016 14:53
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PaintVagrant posted:I need to cut a rusty swaybar link off of my 2007 civic si.
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Apr 3, 2016 17:26
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Godholio posted:That piqued my curiosity, and googling brought me to this. Weird setup for sure, and there are probably several ways you could do this mod if you can't find the part that guy used. Seen that but sucks there is no other option.
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Apr 3, 2016 19:42
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Well, anything that puts a filter in place and doesn't allow air to go around it will work. I agree it's dumb that Ford cut it, but I'm not surprised. 2012 Wranglers came with everything except an actual filter element. All the hardware is there, just no filter.
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Apr 3, 2016 20:35
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