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Crystal Brush voting is live: http://crystalbrush.coolminiornot.com/cbgallery Gonna call it now and guess top 2 is the bigass dragon and the orc pirate with the tattoos. 3rd could be a bunch of stuff, maybe the Infinity dio outside the theater, could be the samurai, could be the Garrosh on the throne.
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Apr 2, 2016 20:45
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I've put a little paint on some of my dudes but I'm finding I'm having a hard time focusing my eyes now. Getting old sucks. I'm trying out taking some crappy phone pics to keep me motivated.  The old guys look okay from arms length but kind of crap up close. I'm doing a couple of touch ups as I go. For some dumb reason I painted their hands metal first time around. I think these guys were my first Skorne unit I painted so I think they're good for getting back into the swing of things. I know my blacks are flat and my metal is just drybrushed but my goal here is fully painted table top. GoodBee fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Apr 2, 2016 |
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Apr 2, 2016 21:18
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GoodBee posted:I've put a little paint on some of my dudes but I'm finding I'm having a hard time focusing my eyes now. Getting old sucks. Get (new?) glasses. Your vision is important! GoodBee posted:Edit: I'm not seeing the timg but the link works. What gives? You forgot the file extension for the URL.
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Apr 2, 2016 21:20
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Avenging Dentist posted:Get (new?) glasses. Your vision is important! I've never needed glasses before.  Maybe it's time for an eye exam.quote:You forgot the file extension for the URL. Thanks!
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Apr 2, 2016 21:23
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GoodBee posted:I've never needed glasses before. You might just need them for up-close work. Better to get glasses than to have eye strain, I say.
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Apr 2, 2016 21:25
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So I need a red formula to match what I've been using for my cloth. Any suggestions before I start buying ever red I can find? What I was using was prime black, Mechrite Red base, highlights with some P3 colors I don't think I need to replace and a Baal Red wash. I had a couple pots of Baal Red left over but they've turned pink. I'm cool with making a wash/glaze but I'm a little fuzzy on how the color might change. Is it reasonable to wash with the base coat? Since I'd rather get a high pigment base, can you still make a wash out of that? Just dilute it more?
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Apr 2, 2016 22:53
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 I've been trying to build up my mouseling armies, for use in the game I'm designing, so I got these two mouseling archers.I still need to add eyes, and put color on the arrowhead. E: Crop and resized Foolster41 fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Apr 3, 2016 |
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Apr 2, 2016 22:54
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Crop and resiiiiiiize
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Apr 2, 2016 22:55
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Braaiinnss Zombie test using the same palette as the Skeletons and Vamp. Painted another 9 zombies skin in more or less the same blue/grey but none of them have any other colours on them yet as I wanted to find a quick way of doing the skin and it involved lots of drybrushing and sloppy glazing.
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Apr 2, 2016 22:58
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signalnoise posted:Crop and resiiiiiiize Oh yeah. Oops.
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Apr 3, 2016 02:22
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Salamanders captain with two assault marines. And that captain is probably the last thing I will ever paint with Citadel paints. It looks so nasty  
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Apr 3, 2016 02:51
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Just need to finish the bases and varnish these two guys, they are going to be my goblin team's cheerleaders.  Still pushing my self to try more freehand stuff, and decided to try painting tartan. It looks more like checkered cloth than tartan tho.
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Apr 3, 2016 17:44
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Wierre posted:Just need to finish the bases and varnish these two guys, they are going to be my goblin team's cheerleaders. This is fantastic
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Apr 3, 2016 17:49
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Star Man posted:Salamanders captain with two assault marines. And that captain is probably the last thing I will ever paint with Citadel paints. It looks so nasty Whats your technique when painting? I have no idea how to gently caress Up using citadel paints like that, and I use them exclusively!  for reference
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Apr 3, 2016 20:17
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This project has been on hold forever but i made a new iteration of my magnetic terrain modules today. The main changes are a different profile at the bottom, which makes them slot onto the risers much nicer and height reduction from 40 to 30mm. Along with the new height i also made a ramp and the few degrees less the new height gives make all the difference and now even fully loaded dropships stand pretty stable. old riser and small module in the back, new ones in the front  the last time i never got around to posting any cad stuff so here's the part contours for the updated parts https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14617390/Terrain%20-%2030mm%20contours%20only.dxf everything is designed for 5mm mdf. i could also post a version complete with milling contours but unless someone has a Zünd mill/camod that's not gonna be much use. i've also looked around a bit and some people use cork to simulate tarmac. my local hardware store has 2mm cork sheet pretty cheap according to their website and i'll give it a look next week.
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Apr 3, 2016 20:28
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Frobbe posted:Whats your technique when painting? I have no idea how to gently caress Up using citadel paints like that, and I use them exclusively! I think it's mostly impatience. Impatience in learning a good water-to-paint ratio for Citadel paints and waiting for watery paint to dry. Like, it's probably a problem with me and not the paints. And I paint thick-on-thin like I would on canvas or wood panel. But Vallejo Model paints seem to let me get away with my bad habits.
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Apr 3, 2016 22:32
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using a medium may help you.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:45
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Anyone have a good guide for painting stone or jungle/temple ruins? I'm doing the throne for a Carnosaur right now and I could use a starting point.
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Apr 4, 2016 05:18
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Paint brown, drybrush gray over top of it. gives a touch of color to it so the stone doesn't look dead.
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Apr 4, 2016 06:05
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Yeast posted:using a medium may help you. Even just using a slightly damp brush will help you. You can use a palette but I paint straight out of the pot and get good results with Citadel paints. Star Man, what kind of brushes are you using, and what exactly is the step by step of your technique? Your paints look like they're blistering off the models, and there's little hairs -everywhere- on the minis.
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Apr 4, 2016 06:32
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Bistromatic posted:This project has been on hold forever but i made a new iteration of my magnetic terrain modules today. The main changes are a different profile at the bottom, which makes them slot onto the risers much nicer and height reduction from 40 to 30mm. Along with the new height i also made a ramp and the few degrees less the new height gives make all the difference and now even fully loaded dropships stand pretty stable. Looking good - I'd love to do some multi-level stuff for drop-zone, but its beyond my skill/tech level. ON another point - There was a conversation on mixing Vallejo paints - I seem to remember that beads were mentioned, but I can't remember if Glass or Hematite were considered the best - some of my paints have separated somewhat, and I want to take affirmative action to get them all properly mixed up. My Prussian blue is more like slightly blue black. What should I do, oh painting gods?
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Apr 4, 2016 08:13
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SRM posted:Even just using a slightly damp brush will help you. You can use a palette but I paint straight out of the pot and get good results with Citadel paints. Star Man, what kind of brushes are you using, and what exactly is the step by step of your technique? Your paints look like they're blistering off the models, and there's little hairs -everywhere- on the minis. The hairs look like they could also be a result of over-priming. Where the propellent and the paint start to build up and expand.
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Apr 4, 2016 09:53
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I've had a varnishing problem, and I think it might be Bones related. I have a bottle of airbrush-ready Alclad II Lacquer Klear Kote Flat. To date, I've used it on Mantic restic, white metal, resin, and Bonesium - I paint them, then coat them in the recommended future floor polish that I give a day to dry, then use the flat. First thing I used it on was painted Reaper giants, and large portions of it stayed shiny and tacky to the touch. I figured I did it wrong, tried again with Mantic restic, and after a second coat to cover bits of Future I missed, it worked perfectly. Same again on metal, more restic, and resin. Tried it on a Reaper bones burrowing horror, and it dried perfectly flat and not sticky, I even got photos, then put it on my display shelf. Three weeks later, I went to put something else next to it on the shelf, and when I touched it to move it it was sticky as gently caress - pulled it out, and it's sticky and shiny all over. The Giants are still sticky and shiny. Everything else else is still as perfect as the day I finished them. My question: does Bonesium have an issue with certain lacquers? Has anyone else experienced this? I'm now hesitant to paint any more bones, because without the varnish the paint always rubs right off, no matter how well I wash and prime them. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 10:17
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SRM posted:Even just using a slightly damp brush will help you. You can use a palette but I paint straight out of the pot and get good results with Citadel paints. I used to thin my Citadel paints in the pots. I've got no digital evidence of those minis though.
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Apr 4, 2016 10:46
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NTRabbit posted:My question: does Bonesium have an issue with certain lacquers? Has anyone else experienced this? I'm now hesitant to paint any more bones, because without the varnish the paint always rubs right off, no matter how well I wash and prime them. The lacquer rather than acrylic is probably your issue. Bonesium can be picky about solvents which is why spray primers can be hit or miss.
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Apr 4, 2016 12:20
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Any advice on adding snow? I have a big old thing of the Woodland Scenics soft flake. I want to go for more of a dry windblown look, when it's too cold to just straight stick and only really accumulates where it hits a barrier.
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Apr 4, 2016 13:13
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Crossposting from the terrain thread: Haven't seen this site before: http://www.lotrscenerybuilder.org/ it's wargaming & Lord of the Rings fans who made loads of the scenery from the LoTR trilogy at a wargaming scale. Very very nice stuff!
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Apr 4, 2016 13:27
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darnon posted:The lacquer rather than acrylic is probably your issue. Bonesium can be picky about solvents which is why spray primers can be hit or miss. There's no solvents involved though - I've seen all the talk about primers, which is why I've been brushing on Vallejo surface primer, but the paint still doesn't hold onto it as well as any other material, I think only metal points have been worse; the brushed on lacquer reacting badly to the bonesium underneath the paint is a new thing for me.
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Apr 4, 2016 13:32
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krushgroove posted:Crossposting from the terrain thread: Haven't seen this site before: http://www.lotrscenerybuilder.org/ it's wargaming & Lord of the Rings fans who made loads of the scenery from the LoTR trilogy at a wargaming scale. Very very nice stuff! omg I am totally stealing this stuff and making it in 6mm scale. I am picking up a bunch of acrylic to run through our new laser cutter for some blood bowl display trays and then want to use it for doing stuff like this coupled with more traditional techniques and the vacuform machine I have. Thanks for posting it.
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Apr 4, 2016 14:32
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krushgroove posted:Crossposting from the terrain thread: Haven't seen this site before: http://www.lotrscenerybuilder.org/ it's wargaming & Lord of the Rings fans who made loads of the scenery from the LoTR trilogy at a wargaming scale. Very very nice stuff! Imagine turning up to that club with unpainted minis........ nesbit37 posted:omg I am totally stealing this stuff and making it in 6mm scale. I am picking up a bunch of acrylic to run through our new laser cutter for some blood bowl display trays and then want to use it for doing stuff like this coupled with more traditional techniques and the vacuform machine I have. Thanks for posting it. I made a couple of rubbish hills at the weekend and felt proud of myself. This makes me want to give up and go home. Then I look at some peoples tables and think, well, mines not THAT bad at least.
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Apr 4, 2016 15:14
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SRM posted:Even just using a slightly damp brush will help you. You can use a palette but I paint straight out of the pot and get good results with Citadel paints. Star Man, what kind of brushes are you using, and what exactly is the step by step of your technique? Your paints look like they're blistering off the models, and there's little hairs -everywhere- on the minis. I looked for hairs on those three models before I left for school today. I don't see any. Here's the process with Citadel: Prime with Vallejo primer by brushing it on. I don't have a good space to spray outside where I rent. Apply thin basecoat (Castellan Green for Salamanders). Just enough to cover the whole model. Block in colors. I use a damp brush and paint from the pot, using the plastic underneath the lid to remove excess paint. If I over do it on the model, I try to borrow that pool of paint and use it somewhere else. Apply washes, then touch up. I've been using a constellation of synthetic hair brushes by Atlas, Winsor & Newton, and Princeton. I'm hard on them, even though I'm trying to make an effort to clean them more often. I had the sams problem when I used to take painting classes with oil, but don't seem to have the same issue with watercolor painting. Star Man fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 15:18
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Iron Crowned posted:Any advice on adding snow? I go with Fyrbrand's old method, where I mix 50/50 PVA glue and snow flock, with some water in there too. It goes on in a toothpastey consistency, then I put more snow on top of that. I also put some white down in the area I'm going to put the flock down, because it's fairly transparent. Comes out like this:    
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Apr 4, 2016 15:44
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Star Man posted:I looked for hairs on those three models before I left for school today. I don't see any. Here's the process with Citadel: I don't really use Citadel paints much any more as I prefer VMC and they thin really well but when I used to use Citadel I found thinning them was an art all of its own, some painted ok from the pot, where as others came out almost like PVA glue (new ones too). VMC has a similar issue where some are thicker than others, but by nature of the fact that they're dropper bottles thinning them on the palette and not having to dunk a brush into the pot made it easy to get a really thin consistency that I'm comfortable with which for me is stupidly thin to the point where the coats are pretty much just slightly thicker washes (for free quick shade). quote:I've been using a constellation of synthetic hair brushes by Atlas, Winsor & Newton, and Princeton. I'm hard on them, even though I'm trying to make an effort to clean them more often. I had the sams problem when I used to take painting classes with oil, but don't seem to have the same issue with watercolor painting. I'm really abusive with brushes as I drybrush and detail with the same brushes, I don't own brush cleaner and end the session by giving the brushes a heavy swish in water and a repointing so unless you're dipping the brushes in glue or something I doubt it's them. My money's on the primer, possibly too thick or drying funnily. Iron Crowned posted:Any advice on adding snow? If you're cheap like me then in the past I've found Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarb) and PVA works convincingly enough.  Mixing some gloss varnish or water effects in to the mix would've helped make it more glossy but that was my first attempt many moons ago. richyp fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 15:59
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Grey Hunter posted:ON another point - There was a conversation on mixing Vallejo paints - I seem to remember that beads were mentioned, but I can't remember if Glass or Hematite were considered the best - some of my paints have separated somewhat, and I want to take affirmative action to get them all properly mixed up. My Prussian blue is more like slightly blue black. Hematite is probably better purely because it's a higher density than glass and is just about as inert. 8mm beads will just fit inside the dropper bottles. You'll also generally want to roll the bottles in your hand (think like rubbing your hands together to warm them up, only with the bottle in between - you probably want the bottle to be horizontal too), since it helps reduce the formation of air bubbles. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 16:01
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SRM posted:I also put some white down in the area I'm going to put the flock down, because it's fairly transparent. richyp posted:Mixing some gloss varnish or water effects in to the mix would've helped make it more glossy but that was my first attempt many moons ago. Thanks especially for these bits. I have a test base that I just need to paint up before I give it a go in a couple of days.
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Apr 4, 2016 16:08
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. Finally finished the Chimera I've had since I bought the Armoured Fist box during the last codex update.    This was pretty much just edge highlighting practice for me after getting the new brushes and I still need to get better at it and to even out my lines. Also using that green colour as base was a bad idea as I couldn't touch up mistakes without things being noticeable due to differences in colour tone.
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Apr 4, 2016 16:57
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richyp posted:I don't see any hairs in the picture either, I'm seeing texture on the paint though which could be down to the primer rather than the thickness of the paint. Next time you prime take a picture of the model and we can see if the same hair/texture effect appears. I'll do that tonight when I get home. I'll put together a couple of scouts that I got for Black Templar neophytes. Meanwhile, my other space marine project is coming along: 
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Apr 4, 2016 17:59
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jfc there has to be some trick I'm missing to painting white armour. At a friend's advice I took up his way of painting it which goes: White Primer Light wash of Nuln Oil Layer up thined down Uthwen Grey Thin layers of White Scar to blend it together. But every time I can never seem to get it looking smooth, it always looks far too streaky/thick. Surely there's a better way?
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Apr 4, 2016 18:11
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No white is just awful bullshit. If I've got to paint white that's more or less how I do it now, but I resign myself to the fact that everything needs to be thinned down markedly more than pretty much any other color to avoid that streakiness and chalky clumpy thing it loves to do. Extra thin and way more passes with it is the only answer I've found in practice so far. Edit: An alternative might be to just forgo the black wash and instead just blend up from a darker grey basecoat. Sometimes I feel like a black wash can be a little too harsh and dry too irregularly to allow for further coats to be perfectly smooth in terms of the gradient up. Gumdrop Larry fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 18:18
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SteelMentor posted:jfc there has to be some trick I'm missing to painting white armour. At a friend's advice I took up his way of painting it which goes: The other way is to prime white and make a really light grey wash/glaze. Something like VMC Sky Grey / GW's lightest grey thinned to oblivion painted over the area. Then a few passes of super thin white glaze working to the centre. If it's too subtle you can make a slightly darker grey wash for the trim/recesses and build it up. It's easier to work down from white than up to it  EDIT: By super-thin white I mean water with a tint of white applied almost like a drybrush i.e. wiped mostly off the brush before painting on in order to avoid it flooding and ruining the grey. The more layers of this you apply, the whiter you get. richyp fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 18:23
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