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Leperflesh posted:If it's an air-hardening steel, it's going to harden every time even without quenching. Annealing temps for A-graded steels extend up into the 1000 degree F range, as well. But do any of those steels blue in the 400-450F range? Actually in this case I don't need to anneal, just want to see if I can soften it a little bit so it isn't so brittle. I have three of these and they kinda suck as saw blades so I'm cutting them up for other things. The heat resistance is a blessing while cutting but less so when trying to do a 2nd temper.
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Apr 5, 2016 06:45
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Oh hey, a metalworking thread. Some of you might be interested in what I'm playing with so I'll do some words and the pics I have handy now. So hi, I'm a car guy who's also an engineer, and is messing with home foundry work. First try at a foundry is done out of a hot water heater shell with the backyard metal casting homemade refractory mix, an old furnace oil burner, and various random crap welded to it to make it easier to use. Seen here.  Great thing is that the oil burner is a self contained forced air / pressurized oil / ignition system, so I just feed it 110V and diesel and fire comes out. I'm held back by lack of a real crucible right now. I've done some test pours with a stainless sauce pan I got from goodwill, but I really don't think I have to spell out how crazy using that for a couple pounds of molten aluminum is. Saving up for a decent one. Right now my workflow is focused around investment casting, though I may move over to sand. 3d printer (last year's project) does consumable patterns, invest those, burn it out, etc. No, there's no reason I can't use that same idea to make patterns for sand casting, I just thought that I'd try to produce some halfway decent parts first before I mess around with learning about cores and all of the stuff that goes into sand casting.  Test casting that turned out kinda crappy in places because I didn't bother to do proper spruing / vents. Still, the idea was to print a cube of a given size, put a caliper on it, cast it, and measure it to see how much shrinkage there was.  Solidworks model of the first real project, a rotary engine intake manifold.  The consumable pattern on my coffee table with beer for reference. I also have an old Bridgeport and South Bend lathe kicking around at my folks shop that could stand a decent servicing plus welders and stuff. Was going to try blacksmithing too, but I figured I should narrow my focus at least a little.
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Apr 5, 2016 14:36
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Welcome! We need more foundry stuff in here. I'll be working on building mine in the fall/winter. http://www.lmine.com/category/crucibles.html
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Apr 5, 2016 14:48
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Those are a lot less than most of the other sources I was looking at, so neat. I'll plan on ordering at least a #20 clay graphite one this weekend after my paycheck deposits. I think I can reasonably fit one of their #50s, but probably more sensible to start smaller. Of course, now I have to work on breaking down my pile of aluminum wheels... ugh.
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Apr 5, 2016 16:35
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Build a little fire in your backyard, stick the wheels in there, once they get to the point of hot shortness hit them with a sledge and they will break apart like butter.
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Apr 5, 2016 16:36
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titanium flame anodization is so pretty, man 
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Apr 5, 2016 16:54
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I know you're right, it's mostly a matter of acknowledging that "ok, yeah, now I need to put in a weekend or so of effort to get things that fit into the crucible". It was nice when I had conveniently sized pieces to just drop in.
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Apr 5, 2016 16:56
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Is the Ti hard to move around compared to steel?
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Apr 5, 2016 16:56
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ReelBigLizard posted:Is the Ti hard to move around compared to steel? I'm working with CP2 so the springback is minimal enough that cold-working is kinda viable. It's great hot, though, very cooperative and it retains heat really well so you get extra time to fiddle with tooling n anvil placement. i'm farting around rn and using an open torch for heats, working in a really oxidizing environment doesnt seem to matter much beyond baking a plain black oxide in on more of the part than i'd prefer. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 17:02
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How do you website you've evacuated all the propane from a tank before cutting it? I've read filling it with water id's sufficient but am skeptical because some gas absorbs into the inner steel surface. Edit: How do you do it SAFELY is an important qualifier for when someone says get a blowtorch and shove it in.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:11
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Ambrose Burnside posted:titanium flame anodization is so pretty, man That's like a loving rainbow baked into metal. Question re: differential heating. Are there internal stresses associated with those pretty colors? I know they correlate to where it was heated but, what's going on inside the metal?
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Apr 5, 2016 17:26
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In that particular thing, no- anywhere with temper colour was hot-worked, so it was effectively normalized and then let to air-cool. but i also hammered on a lot of it after forming, so the cold-working is gonna come through and not the unequal heating. The oxide layer is super tough, it held up just fine to being hammered on cold- it's ~apparently~ the result of titanium dioxide being partially transparent, so the reflects the depth of the oxide layer as visible light passes through and reflects off the metallic titanium underneath.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:40
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Crazyeyes posted:I've read filling it with water id's sufficient but am skeptical because some gas absorbs into the inner steel surface. Water or inert gas is OK, your goal is just to displace oxygen so if anything flammable is left behind it won't combust.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:50
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Water or inert gas is OK, your goal is just to displace oxygen so if anything flammable is left behind it won't combust. So cut/weld it while full of water? Seems messy and potentially dangerous.
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Apr 5, 2016 19:12
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Messy, perhaps. Dangerous, not at all in my opinion. Last time I cut a tank open I filled it with water and used an air-powered cut of tool so there was no electrocution risk. If you don't want to go the water route, go to the inert gas route. If you don't have any sheidling gasses for MIG/TIG or nitrogen handy, you can always make your own Co2 by putting baking soda and vinegar in the tank.
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Apr 5, 2016 20:03
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wormil posted:But do any of those steels blue in the 400-450F range? Actually in this case I don't need to anneal, just want to see if I can soften it a little bit so it isn't so brittle. I have three of these and they kinda suck as saw blades so I'm cutting them up for other things. The heat resistance is a blessing while cutting but less so when trying to do a 2nd temper. That's a good question. I'm not certain, but I think that for all steels, the colors are consistent because they represent oxidization of the surface at various temperatures. In any case some googling does not find surface temper color charts for anything other than ordinary carbon steels. I know this might be silly to ask, but are your blades marked with any identifying information? Figuring out exactly what they're made of might be as simple as checking the specs from the manufacturer... Here's a question for you, though. It seems you want to bend the metal. If you want to work the steel, I really think merely reducing the temper by a bit isn't going to get you where you want. There are too many very hard steels that simply will not bend rather than breaking when they're cold. Cold-working carbon steel and other steel alloys just doesn't work too well in a lot of cases. What is your end goal? What are you trying to make? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 20:17
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Bet you guys are real jealous right now of my x-ray fluorescence (XRF) gun that will tell me what basically anything is in 60 seconds. Really though, those things are pretty commonly used in quality control, maybe you've got a buddy who works in industry with access to something like that. Editing for actual content: XRF works in a similar fashion to EDS, or energy-dispersive electron spectroscopy, by smacking the sample with radiation and reading the energy returned from the sample. Elements have characteristic wavelengths and using some complicated math, the device can turn the resultant spectrum into a semi-quantitative (industry term for "accurate but we're covering our asses just in case") composition for the sample. Lawnie fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 23:53
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Oh man, Clickspring's new video. Pure amazing. What a maniac.
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Apr 6, 2016 01:05
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Cleaned up the lead screw with keresone in the parts washer. Well more like on top of the parts washer, it won't quite fit inside. Lucky for me these bearings are slip fit on both ID and OD as this screw is too drat long for my press. These are the parts that go on the end minus some washers for spacing.  All together. The leadscrew moves the table all sexy like.  Underside of the table.  Phase 1 of the mill project is complete for now. Everything is either on the mill or on that rolling cart thingy. I may take the milling vise apart soon and put that in Evapo-Rust. Aside from that this is the last milling machine post for a while, the next AMW project you'll see here is the lathe. Tomorrow I turn my attention to the motorcycle. Order of operations:
 Yay a clean table! 
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Apr 6, 2016 03:34
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Yay a clean table! A what? 
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Apr 6, 2016 04:32
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Yay a clean table!* Does it really count if you just shove everything on the bottom shelf of the table? Yes.
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Apr 6, 2016 04:51
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Brekelefuw posted:Oh man, Clickspring's new video. Pure amazing. What a maniac. Everything is beautiful and nothing hurts.
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Apr 6, 2016 11:04
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Lightly used Lincoln 125HD with cart for $400. Good deal? Also: that mill looks awesome. ALSO also: if one were to look into renting a small garage to play with power tools in, what would be stone things to look for/ look out for in that process? I assume just contacting a commercial realtor about what's available, but beyond that whay should I be looking for? About 2-car garage size should be more than enough, I'd think, but don't know what normal square footage should approximately be for hobbyist stuff. Crazyeyes fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 14:49
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Crazyeyes posted:Lightly used Lincoln 125HD with cart for $400. Good deal? That is a rip off. iForge paid what $125 for the same machine if I recall used. For $400-500 you should be able to get a much more bad-rear end machine. Crazyeyes posted:Also: that mill looks awesome. Crazyeyes posted:ALSO also: if one were to look into renting a small garage to play with power tools in, what would be stone things to look for/ look out for in that process? I assume just contacting a commercial realtor about what's available, but beyond that whay should I be looking for? About 2-car garage size should be more than enough, I'd think, but don't know what normal square footage should approximately be for hobbyist stuff. Adequate electrical Heat Running water preferably with a sink Bathroom is a plus Enough space for your stuff Safety and security I'm paying $500 for 960 square feet with free water, I buy the oil for the heater and have the electric in my name. You may have a hard time finding a deal like that tho. I found it on craigslit and the Landlord does NOT want any commercial business. The commercial realators I called up when I was looking to rent a shop wanted more then $1000.
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Apr 6, 2016 15:32
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Seems super location-dependent, too. I've seen pseudo-commercial garage-type properties going for a song up in rural Ontario, while I could basically never hope to rent a shop in Toronto unless my business was bringing in real-livable income and I was doing it full-time.
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Apr 6, 2016 16:41
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Crazyeyes posted:Lightly used Lincoln 125HD with cart for $400. Good deal? Yeah I paid $125 for mine off craigslist. I wouldnt pay any more than half retail price for one. If you want to spend $400, you can get a lot better welder.
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Apr 6, 2016 17:37
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My area must suck for this kind of thing, then. All I see on Craigslist and the like are $900 ancient Miller's, $4k idealarcs, and 150 for harbor freight. Even the Lincoln tombstone welders are 250 used  Also for the rental thing: Seems going rate around me is ~$4-8/sqft/yr, but having trouble locating small spaces anyway. It's either 150sqft or 13000sqft Is that 500 a month or a year you're paying? Crazyeyes fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 20:05
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Hmm, I thought you were in NJ, I'd expect you'd be able to find better deals. Both my Idealarc and Syncrowave came from wanted ads posted on craigslist, give that a shot. And that is 500 per month. (250 for a tombstone is unbelievable to me. I think I paid 50 or 75 for the one I had.)
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Apr 6, 2016 20:22
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Hmm, I thought you were in NJ, I'd expect you'd be able to find better deals. Both my Idealarc and Syncrowave came from wanted ads posted on craigslist, give that a shot. Yup I'm in Jersey. Land of expensive poo poo. And I could maybe get an idealarc or something for less but lack of 220 at home forces my hand so I mostly look at 110v units which are inexplicably expensive. It will be a definite perk of finding a space to rent if it gives me access to 220.
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Apr 6, 2016 20:31
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You have 220, you just need to get a circuit ran. Jody's video today is pretty darn cool: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/purge-box-part2.html
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Apr 6, 2016 20:35
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Lathe update: It's still broken! A while back I welded up the broken Variable Speed arm for our lathe. Sadly after reassembly, it still would not change speeds. Turns out the center pulley of the reeves drive was still stuck despite the soaking/cleaning.    Here's the pulley stack. It's two shafts, the smaller shaft that is solidly mounted to the arm and the larger outer shaft that the pulleys mount to. We installed new bearings between the two when we reassembled it the first time.  And here's a better picture of the arm and how it moves.  And the jack shaft.  Pro tip: Home Depot now sells these Channellock rebadged snap ring pliers- they are AMAZING.  With the shaft removed, you can see the gunk.   And the bad news is the bearing broke apart while removing it. It's some odd graphite impregnated with bronze. I had no luck finding anything locally and eventually turned to my machinist buddy who has made us a new delrin bushing. It's hard to explain, but the inner pulley does not spin, it just slides side to side on the shaft to change the belt contact diameter. Hopefully it will hold up for a long time and I won't have to touch this thing again. Haha. Tonight we're going to install the new bushing + reassemble.  No updates on the mill, it still needs power. I did however fix the gaping hole in the wall sheathing behind it. Eventually I'll put 48" of stainless panels behind it.  New tool acquisition: I was gifted/traded a carbide tooling grinder. I know nothing about them, but I'm looking forward to learning how to use it.  AMW, I tried taking a few pictures of the oiling system, but you can't see much. I actually want to take the table/saddle off after seeing how well your machine cleaned up. This one is still sticky from coolant despite the kerosene bath.  
the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 20:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Seems super location-dependent, too. I've seen pseudo-commercial garage-type properties going for a song up in rural Ontario, while I could basically never hope to rent a shop in Toronto unless my business was bringing in real-livable income and I was doing it full-time. Yep. I've been looking in Toronto as well. My friend rents a small space in a building in Kensington market for $385, but I don't know how they would be with hammering etc despite being an art space.
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Apr 6, 2016 20:40
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the spyder, Thanks those pics were actually helpful. If you get a chance, I could use a pic of the oil lines inside of the knee... There's an opening on the bottom that should be big enough for a phone and a drop light. With that and the documentation in the book I should be all set. Good luck on the lathe!
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Apr 6, 2016 20:47
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My tractor supply is selling their Hobart floor models at a discount. 450 for a 235LX AC/DC, 250 for the AC version. Is there really that much difference in quality between ac and dc?
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Apr 6, 2016 23:02
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Crazyeyes posted:Is there really that much difference in quality between ac and dc? You can bet your rear end there is. DC makes a much better arc, and works with all the electrodes out there. The only electrode I've ever had success with on AC is 6011, and it makes alot more spatter then with DC. I know they make a 7018 AC electrode, and I've heard people claim that they get it to work, but I never could. If I recall correctly 6013 works on AC but that is one lovely electrode I will never use again. If you are convinced you can't find a bigger better machine used, then the DC Hobart stick mate from tractor supply is your best bet. That said, if I were you, I'd chill my jets and keep an eye out on craigslist tools for a few weeks, and also put up a wanted ad in craigslist looking for a Idealarc or Dialarc. I've seen lots of good deals on NJ CL over the years. Let me stress how good wanted ads are... My 225 (I sold that to iForge who then sold it to someone else), Idealarc, Syncrowave, and Lagun Mill all came to me as the result of CL wanted ads... I would have never gotten those machines looking in the tools section! The common thread all these machines had was the owner wanted to get it to the gently caress off their propery, but wasn't motivated enough to listed it themselves, or had previously and didn't get responses, but when they see the wanted ad show up, they see empty space and dollar signs and are typically motivated sellers.
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Apr 6, 2016 23:54
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 Made my first die today. Cut the threads nicely although they are slightly too big for the female threads they need to fit, so I will make another die. I think instead of sawing teeth, I will drill holes in the face using my mill and rotary table. I think the sawed slots caused the die to expand slightly, which lead to the oversized dimensions. Hardening and tempering went well. First time I have done that as well.
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Apr 7, 2016 00:08
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fancy twisting in 1/8" stock is very hard to do consistently ok 
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Apr 7, 2016 00:42
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Had a terrifying experience last night. My girlfriend's dad offered to teach me to weld through rebuilding of a steel trailer hitch basket I found side of the road. It began with him pulling out a 4.5" SnapOn angle grinder with a 7" cutting wheel (so naturally the safety guard had been removed to fit the too-large wheel) and begins cutting the rusted bolts off of the frame. His hand mere inches from the cutting wheel, and being showered with sparks and metal. Not even wearing a pair of gloves or anything (not that they would help him if the blade catches his hand). According to him "when you work with your hands a lot you get used to the pain  "So sparks are soaring and spraying all over the place. Including into an open pan of used motor oil, into/onto his vintage car that he keeps in the next garage bay uncovered, and into the rafters if this garage where shreds of insulation and paper were dangling down. I thought I was gonna have an anxiety attack thinking of all the poo poo that could go wrong. Did, however, get to lay a bead with his Millermatic near the end, though. Goddamn are those masks dark. Couldn't see poo poo. It was fun, though. Crazyeyes fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 20:25
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I suggest not listening to your girlfriend’s Dad, and pretty much do the opposite of what he tells you. Nice work Ambrose Burnside!
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Apr 7, 2016 20:43
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Except that yes, you should not wear gloves when your fingers are inches away from the business part of a rotating tool. One of the less obvious purposes of the shield is to keep your gloves from being next to the, um, degloving hazard.
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Apr 7, 2016 21:02
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