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At least the kits Dragon manufactures are way better than the instructions, right?
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Apr 7, 2016 18:34
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The Locator posted:That reminds me of the amazing 1/6 scale model Deusenburg that is on display in the museum in Carlsbad, CA. Pictures can be found here - http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Chenot.htm (scroll down quite a ways for a big batch of photo's that are clickable). There are also links on that page to the video's of them starting the engine.. what? Yes, the tiny little engine runs as an actual internal combustion engine, not electric or air. I probably shouldn't show this to the Mercedes guy or he'll add "Build a working engine" to his task list. What am I talking about? I'll show him right now.
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Apr 7, 2016 19:20
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Greyhawk posted:I probably shouldn't show this to the Mercedes guy or he'll add "Build a working engine" to his task list. You are an evil person. Hahaha.. You should probably point out the working transmission and differential too. 
The Locator fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 19:29
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The Locator posted:You are an evil person. Hahaha.. I have a 1/8 scale r/c vehicle that has a transmission and differential, but those seem downright simple and easy compared to that drat engine.
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Apr 7, 2016 20:12
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NTRabbit posted:At least the kits Dragon manufactures are way better than the instructions, right? Yes, the quality of Dragon kits is high. Make sure to try and get ones with Magic Tracks though, their "styrene 100" tracks aren't really better than old vinyl ones.
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Apr 7, 2016 20:14
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Ensign Expendable posted:Yes, the quality of Dragon kits is high. Make sure to try and get ones with Magic Tracks though, their "styrene 100" tracks aren't really better than old vinyl ones. The quality of some Dragon kits is high. Others are garbage. It really behooves you to read reviews before buying. And yes, their Dragon Styrene ("DS") tracks are really pretty bad.
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Apr 7, 2016 23:07
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Really? I've seen great to mediocre, never garbage. Which ones are bad? Edit: bought some Hussar brass ammo and Aber photo etch for my T-34-85, if I don't put it together soon I'll end up replacing every part of the kit with resin and metal. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Apr 8, 2016 |
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Apr 8, 2016 00:10
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Going back to building cars in 1:24 for a bit feels really weird coming from my usual from my usual 1:8 . Everything looks hilariously cute and tiny   That's a VW Golf 1 GTI engine waiting for its mating with the "engine room". It actually takes a bit of effort relearning how to handle these tiny things. A bit of a warning about the Pocher Aventador I guess. While the parts one can directly see look absolutely great...   ... the ones that will be mostly hidden.... not so much   There is a chance things will look better after more stuff is added, but the thing about how it will look totally great even unpainted? Total lie. Also had a chance to work on my train a bit and added the sandbox and pipes, some steps, vents, etc. 
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Apr 8, 2016 01:12
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Greyhawk posted:Also had a chance to work on my train a bit and added the sandbox and pipes, some steps, vents, etc. If it doesn't run on ground coal I'm gonna call you lazy (obviously not, it's lovely work)
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Apr 8, 2016 01:26
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I DID get some model train coal for the tender.
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Apr 8, 2016 02:00
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Is that teeny models of coal or real coal treated to not make a mess?
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Apr 8, 2016 02:44
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Coal is reactive with air. Plastic coal is better.
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Apr 8, 2016 03:27
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Jonny Nox posted:Coal is reactive with air. Plastic coal is better. Yet another way in which petroleum ruined the coal industry!
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Apr 8, 2016 03:36
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Anyone have tips for stripping chromed parts? I'm finishing up the Bandai Phasma kit and she is shiny as poo poo, which is fine by me, but I need to get some of that poo poo off her hands and blaster to paint the right parts black. Or can I just paint over it? (I'm assuming that would be a massive pain, though)
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Apr 8, 2016 14:57
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Cthulu Carl posted:Anyone have tips for stripping chromed parts? I'm finishing up the Bandai Phasma kit and she is shiny as poo poo, which is fine by me, but I need to get some of that poo poo off her hands and blaster to paint the right parts black. Or can I just paint over it? (I'm assuming that would be a massive pain, though) Bleach is what you want. The toilet cleaning stuff.
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Apr 8, 2016 15:45
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Get a bag, fill with oven cleaner foam, dump the parts in there, let sit overnight, preferably outside and on something thats not affected by possible heat.
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Apr 8, 2016 15:53
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Colonial Air Force posted:Yet another way in which petroleum ruined the coal industry! It's really saying something about how nasty coal is that scale modellers just go with a substitute.
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Apr 8, 2016 16:13
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Can I ask a really, really stupid newbie question that I can't seem to find a single clear answer to? What's the best way to paint open landing gear bays and to put the gear themselves in? Should I just paint them first, mask with cotton swabs/makeup sponges, paint the rest of the model, and then superglue the landing gear in place? Or is there a better method? Also, if I want to make an enamel wash to dirty up the gear struts and such, just to give them a nice general patina of use, can I use the same enamel wash that I use to do pin washes for panel lines or should it be at a different consistency? Also at what point should I be wiping the wash off?
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Apr 8, 2016 16:46
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MJP posted:Can I ask a really, really stupid newbie question that I can't seem to find a single clear answer to? I usually paint up the bays during construction then fill with paper towel/whatever when doing rest of the plane. This is especially true for white. Sometimes (Spitfires and esp. WW2 german stuff) I put it off to the end.
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Apr 8, 2016 17:01
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Greyhawk posted:Get a bag, fill with oven cleaner foam, dump the parts in there, let sit overnight, preferably outside and on something thats not affected by possible heat. I do this too but I usually only have to wait about 15 minutes.
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Apr 8, 2016 17:19
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Looks like I need better oven cleaner.
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Apr 8, 2016 18:05
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Greyhawk posted:Looks like I need better oven cleaner. I use Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner, if you're going shopping! I guess maybe there's different kinds of plating to strip that could affect it too?
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Apr 8, 2016 21:00
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Morane-Saulnier type N, 1/32nd, Special Hobby.  Meh. Doesn't look too bad now but it was a struggle all the way.
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Apr 8, 2016 21:25
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Unkempt posted:Morane-Saulnier type N, 1/32nd, Special Hobby. Special hobby - aptly named? (Looks nice BTW. I'm not brave enough yet to try my hand at First World War aircraft.)
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Apr 8, 2016 21:35
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Unkempt posted:Morane-Saulnier type N, 1/32nd, Special Hobby. I absolutely love this. any insights or tips to share?
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Apr 8, 2016 21:36
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Nebakenezzer posted:Special hobby - aptly named? Yes. bewbies posted:I absolutely love this. any insights or tips to share? Get a Wingnut Wings kit instead, I hear they're excellent. ... oh, I'm a big whiny baby. It's a short run kit, there were bits that didn't fit and the decals were out of register but it worked out OK in the end, there were some nice resin and PE bits and the rigging wasn't as horrendous as I was afraid of. Test fitting and not being afraid to cut stuff up to make it fit are the key here.
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Apr 8, 2016 21:46
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Nebakenezzer posted:Special hobby - aptly named? My understanding is that they tend to produce rarer aircraft types on a not-quite-garage-kit limited run basis. Extensive amounts of hobby know-how is expected. They're also expensive.
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Apr 8, 2016 21:57
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I'm sure this is a dumb question but do you actually stretch and dope the fabric on a model like that?
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Apr 8, 2016 21:59
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Someone in the Idiots on Social Media thread found a Serious IssueAdmiral Joeslop posted:Someone painted their Star Wars X-wing Miniatures in a rainbow. This is clearly a move by "the gays" to infringe on more of are Christian rights.
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Apr 8, 2016 22:02
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bewbies posted:I'm sure this is a dumb question but do you actually stretch and dope the fabric on a model like that? Nope, that's just painted plastic. There are some framework/fabric kits out there but I'm not doing that. Ensign Expendable posted:Someone in the Idiots on Social Media thread found a Serious Issue Jesus christ.
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Apr 8, 2016 22:19
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Unkempt posted:Morane-Saulnier type N, 1/32nd, Special Hobby. I absolutely love that finish. Beautiful work. Decided to keep brushpainting instead of airbrushing the VW Golf, at least for the time being and am pleasently surprised how the "engine room" turned out. 
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Apr 8, 2016 22:23
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Ensign Expendable posted:Someone in the Idiots on Social Media thread found a Serious Issue
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Apr 8, 2016 23:31
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Nebakenezzer posted:How in the name of god is he fabricating all those metal bits? Judging by some of his tools and methods I have a feeling his day job is a Watchsmith. Machining tiny, thin, and flexible metals is a skill not many have to learn. He also has some patches of jeweling on the car that looks straight from a watch case. That dude is good.
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Apr 8, 2016 23:33
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Baronjutter posted:You don't I always keep a milk crate or two nearby, just so i avoid the urge.
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Apr 8, 2016 23:56
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lovely picture but I made and planted the first tree on the layout. I didn't know what I was doing but I sprinkled some tree stuff on a tree trunk and now I have a tree???
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Apr 9, 2016 08:35
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Baronjutter posted:lovely picture but I made and planted the first tree on the layout. I didn't know what I was doing but I sprinkled some tree stuff on a tree trunk and now I have a tree??? Looks good!
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Apr 9, 2016 09:34
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Unkempt posted:Morane-Saulnier type N, 1/32nd, Special Hobby. Fun fact for those who might not know—that silver/metal bit on the back of the prop is to deflect bullets from the Hotchkiss machine gun. It didn't have an interruptor mechanism (which ensures that the gun only fires when the prop blades aren't at 12 and 6); you just pulled the trigger and hoped that the next bullet wouldn't be the one that overstressed the prop and shot it straight off. WWI was a crazy time.
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Apr 9, 2016 09:41
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Jeherrin posted:Fun fact for those who might not know—that silver/metal bit on the back of the prop is to deflect bullets from the Hotchkiss machine gun. It didn't have an interruptor mechanism (which ensures that the gun only fires when the prop blades aren't at 12 and 6); you just pulled the trigger and hoped that the next bullet wouldn't be the one that overstressed the prop and shot it straight off. It's also pre-aileron. All those wires are for wing-warping, just like the Wright brothers used.
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Apr 9, 2016 13:13
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It's time for Ersatzpanzerscheissewagen Mazda T-2000 (j)!    But with a quick addition of an anti-tank gun, it turns into the Waffentrager auf Ersatzpanzerscheissewagen Mazda T-2000 (j)!  It's good that the ramp thing on the rear gate limits the traverse of the gun, since the trails can't deploy all the way anyway.  Commubot helpfully displays the underside of the vehicle. It's quite nice, aside from the four very obvious screws holding the thing together. If you really care about the underside of your crapcar, filling in the holes would be difficult.  Commubot readily defeats his foes. Putting the kit together was surprisingly painless once I cleaned up the hilariously huge flash plastic. I didn't bother with the interior since it was sealed off anyway, but you get some cabin details with levers and the steering wheel and such. I got lazy with the paint, giving the car a coat of green and then a coat of rust red with the silly putty method to imitate basic camo on a primer sort of effect. Sadly, while it's easy to leave off the rear tires and the spare until you're done painting, it's impossible to pull off the same trick with the front tire. Very cheap, not too lovely, and a lot of fun to build: the perfect crapkit choice. 10/10 would build crap again.
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Apr 9, 2016 19:06
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Ensign Expendable posted:Very cheap, not too lovely, and a lot of fun to build: the perfect crapkit choice. 10/10 would build crap again. Lovely! Also holy poo poo, that thing has a long bed.
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Apr 9, 2016 19:10
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