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Crazyeyes posted:Congratulations. That sounds badass and I have no idea what that entails. I think it'll mostly be keeping the old guys from quitting because there are too many new people ("I WANT TO MAKE A SWORD BECAUSE SWORDS ARE COOL TEACH ME TO MAKE A SWORD DO YOU LIKE THAT SHOW FORGED IN FIRE MY GRANDAD FOUGHT NINJAS") who come for one meeting and decide the hobby isn't for them. Also not be driven crazy by needy new people.
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Apr 10, 2016 05:56
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Your experience of dealing with the public as a local government official will serve you well I suspect.
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Apr 10, 2016 07:57
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We should start a list of "Newbie metalworker / smithing questions", including such gems as "Where do you keep the blood you put the hot swords into?"
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Apr 10, 2016 14:39
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Pagan posted:We should start a list of "Newbie metalworker / smithing questions", including such gems as "Where do you keep the blood you put the hot swords into?" Perfect, please do. I'll add to it. I'll get it printed up and hang it in the clubhouse when we finish.
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Apr 10, 2016 15:21
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Please come back with your progress. I've just got a central heating burner and am about the cast a foundry body to do the exact same thing with 3D printed lost was casting so I'd love to avoid any pitfalls I can. For the specific alloy I was using (broken down Mazda RX-7 wheels) and conditions and all that, it was about a percent. Of course, we'll see if that holds up in any other circumstances, but hey, a starting point. The nicest thing about this sort of setup is the burner - it seems like a bunch of homebrew foundry guys spend endless time screwing around with burner designs only to come up with something that only sorta works. This? Nope, once I got the nozzle cleaned out, just plugged it in and it goes. No messing with lighting it, no shortage of heat, no worrying it's going to burn through and explode, and you can even refill the fuel as you go, it's pretty much perfect as far as combustion based solutions. Just ordered a #20 clay/graphite crucible. Should be enough for some stuff and a lot less scary than thinwall stainless saucepans.
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Apr 10, 2016 16:35
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Pagan posted:We should start a list of "Newbie metalworker / smithing questions", including such gems as "Where do you keep the blood you put the hot swords into?" "What do you mean I can't make Damascus?"
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Apr 10, 2016 18:02
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The word "katana" in almost any context should be the middle bingo square.
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Apr 10, 2016 21:00
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Can you start every meeting by holding a hammer above your head and screaming 'by the power of greyskull, I have the power ' ?
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Apr 10, 2016 21:02
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Wanting to get started blacksmithing. What do I need to get started???? (not serious) Having been reading the blacksmith subreddit I am beginning to understand why a lot of the older blacksmith communities are kinda crusty. Sample Bingo Squares: Want to make swords (Free space) Makeshift anvil Brake drum forge "No anvils in my area" Where do I buy steel? (bonus if person is located in Pittsburg) Damascus Steel "Behold babby's first____" Is this a good deal? (link to Craigslist ad for $900 70 lb chunk of pitted rust) Refractory recipes Hair dryer vs squirrel cage vs leaf blower vs heat gun vs dust collector motor vs underemployed jazz musician Youtube channel discussion
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Apr 10, 2016 22:53
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I'm an underemployed jazz musician for reals...
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Apr 11, 2016 01:16
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Pagan posted:The word "katana" in almost any context should be the middle bingo square. 
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Apr 11, 2016 02:03
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Welder is working well, only problem is I'm sometimes getting the wire exploding on first contact and jamming in the tip. This never happens if I cut the ball off the end at 45 degrees. Is this an acceptable fix, or should I not have to bother trimming the wire before starting an arc? Also - am I supposed to pull the trigger with the wire touching the metal, or hold off a bit?
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Apr 11, 2016 11:11
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If you go by the book and do it properly, you should always clip the end of wire to expose fresh electrode before starting. A good welding resource will specify the contact tip to work distance and the amount of wire stickout, in addition to volts, wire feed rate, and volume of shielding gas for a given wire in a given joint configuration. To answer your question the stickout is less then the contact tip to work distance, so yeah, hold off a bit.
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Apr 11, 2016 11:58
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Always clipping the wire is safe but is especially important if it's balled up. And yeah, start without contacting the metal- it's especially important if you're using a shielding gas 'cause it needs a moment to bathe the joint before the arc gets struck.
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Apr 11, 2016 18:34
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Also, double check your ground to the workpiece. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of funky things to happen.
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Apr 11, 2016 18:48
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true story after welding exclusively on a nice welding table for months I went home and clamped on to a firebrick and was confused as to why the thing wasn't doing the thing
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Apr 11, 2016 19:16
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Ambrose Burnside posted:true story after welding exclusively on a nice welding table for months I went home and clamped on to a firebrick and was confused as to why the thing wasn't doing the thing It's mostly aluminium, why can't it work? 
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Apr 11, 2016 19:40
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Hey, does anyone have any good guides on brazing? I was going through my grandmother's attic and stumbled upon a chest my great grandfather started before he passed. Apparently he made it from scrap copper and bronze left over from houses he built during the Great Depression. It's a real beauty and I'd like to finish it right. The whole thing was made with hand tools. It's about 70 years old give or take. I have a fair amount of experience welding steel both in and outside a forge but I've never worked with copper or bronze outside some Mokume-gane, much less brazed them.   
BedBuglet fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 01:17
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That's a really awesome chest! From what I can tell it appears to be soldered, not brazed. I would recommend going with soldering. It'll be plenty strong enough, and the heat of brazing will melt the rest of the solder too easily, and cause discoloration of the copper. Regular plumbers flux/solder and a propane torch will get the job done on this. Make sure to clean the metal first!
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Apr 12, 2016 02:49
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I'm a soldering and brazing master. I do it every day at work. If you decide to braze, you need to clean off every bit of soft solder, or it will crystallize and can chew a hole in the metal. Biggest thing is to make sure the area to be worked on is clean.
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Apr 12, 2016 03:56
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Apparently there is a Hydraulic Press Channel on youtube. Because of course there is. Highlights include: Pressception (crushing hydraulic press with hydraulic press) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvHbXoNFMz4 Can you crush blender or blend hydraulic press? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJCXIDhdTnk Can you fold paper more than 7 times with hydraulic press https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuG_CeEZV6w The guy's accent is fantastic, too.
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Apr 12, 2016 04:48
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Leperflesh posted:Can you fold paper more than 7 times with hydraulic press I was not aware that paper is explosive...
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Apr 12, 2016 05:05
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He's Finnish, IIRC. Best part is he had the channel originally like a year ago, and it got no views. Then, a month ago, some guy on Reddit links to it and it takes off, and he started making videos again. The contagious laughter of his family is the most important part. The sad part is the copycats that have exploded since, but I hope they die down.
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Apr 12, 2016 06:10
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I hope they get crushed!
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Apr 12, 2016 09:13
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BedBuglet posted:I was not aware that paper is explosive... That took me by surprise... I wonder if there were air pockets that blew once it hit a certain pressure, or it happened from just friction.
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Apr 12, 2016 14:16
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I think it was a result of the tensile strength of the paper being overcome, resulting in a violent release. One crack in the dam and the whole thing ruptured in a split second.
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Apr 12, 2016 15:13
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Well, the time has come for me to drill many holes in a piece of thick steel plate. Pray for me and my 8mm drill bit.
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Apr 12, 2016 15:16
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Brekelefuw posted:Well, the time has come for me to drill many holes in a piece of thick steel plate. just, uh, just the one, huh e: actually related, how should I sharpen this bimetal hole saw? the teeth got dulled to gently caress on a bit of drill bit and my needle files won't bite, teeth are too hard.
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Apr 12, 2016 17:59
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Soak it in old piss? Or I guess a honing stone or diamond file?
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Apr 12, 2016 18:12
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Can you use a small grinder/dremel to shave the blunt wave shape of each tooth down to a sharp smaller wave?
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Apr 12, 2016 19:56
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Brekelefuw posted:Soak it in old piss?
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Apr 12, 2016 20:17
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:the spyder, Thanks those pics were actually helpful. If you get a chance, I could use a pic of the oil lines inside of the knee... There's an opening on the bottom that should be big enough for a phone and a drop light. With that and the documentation in the book I should be all set. Good luck on the lathe! Mine has no oil lines inside the knee. The screw is lubricated via the grease zerk near the top of the lower support column.    Also, more dirt and chips! I really need to find something that will cut this old sticky coolant. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 22:51
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Thanks! I have to believe that purple industrial solvent would clean it just fine. Mine didn't have any coolant residue that I noticed so I don't know for sure. Those ways would certainly benefit from some barkeeper's friend. Either way you go, I think you are going to have to take the bottom end apart and use lots of water to do it correctly.
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Apr 12, 2016 23:16
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A part of me really wants to tear into this thing and give it a good cleaning, but at the same time I have way more important projects right now. Maybe later this year. I haven't looked in the manual yet, but do you know how the sliding covers on top of the knee attach? I would like to remove and inspect under ours.
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Apr 12, 2016 23:22
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You have to remove the table and the saddle. They just sit on top of the knee, but the saddle and the piece that holds the lead screw nuts keep them from going anywhere. They have little tabs that catch the edges of the holes below them. It won't really take you that long to take it apart. You could have the table, saddle, and knee off the machine in no time at all. If you were motivated enough I suspect you could complete it (disasemble, clean, reassemble) in 3 eight hour days probably... your machine has less challenges to overcome then mine. 
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Apr 12, 2016 23:27
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the spyder posted:
I can't find the stuff my employers give us to mop the floor with but it's a sodium hydroxide based concentrate that we mix 75:1 and is the best surface cleaner I've ever used. Cuts through years of buildup on the ignored top surfaces of grinding machines that have been running 24/7 for years and doesn't even hurt the paint. I think any NaOH alkaline cleaner should be similar, just use technique like your rag is a mop. Lay down the clean water thick, count to 20, wipe up with a dry rag. Repeat as needed. Oh and for the love of god don't let it or the purple stuff touch ways, threads, or other bare metal. Whatever you clean those areas with needs to be intensely flammable. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 23:56
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Pagan posted:We should start a list of "Newbie metalworker / smithing questions", including such gems as "Where do you keep the blood you put the hot swords into?"
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Apr 13, 2016 01:19
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Shipping 10ft of brass rod from England to Canada is drastically cheaper than shipping it from USA to Canada. Anyone got any good UK metal supplier recommendations? Brass, and Bronze flat, rod, and tube especially.
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Apr 13, 2016 01:29
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Any reason you can't source locally? I'm assuming you need metric sizes? I can ask at McKinnon next time I'm there if they can do metric sizing for brass stuff.
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Apr 13, 2016 01:53
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So I might want to get a production run of widgets machined in the near-mid future- simple things, maybe two or three fairly conservative milling operations from plain ol smallish aluminium blocks (like 2"x2"x1") and only one or two tooling changes, probably 50-100 units to start. Simple enough that I'd design the thing in Solidworks myself. This really is a "how long is a string" bullshit unanswerable question, but verrrrrry approximately, how much would that cost me? Would simplifying my design from "very simple already" cut that cost, or is most of the expense gonna be fixed because of setup n teardown n labour et al for a small run?
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Apr 13, 2016 01:59
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