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The Locator posted:(KTAR)  spottedAlternatively, the Bus was "running people off the road" because it was trying to avoid breaking down in the travel lanes.
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Apr 12, 2016 05:49
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Probably had a loose drag link, tbh
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Apr 12, 2016 05:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:
It's true. I tend to listen to KTAR for about half of my stupid lovely commute for the traffic, and to get some news, since I don't watch TV. I eventually get sick of the commercials and switch to my music unless something big is happening in the news or traffic.
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Apr 12, 2016 05:55
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If you're going slow enough that a VW Bus can run you off the road just pull to the shoulder and surrender your driver's license to the arriving authorities.
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Apr 12, 2016 14:26
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It's not the first time he's made a traffic and/or weather report. Dense fog was reported on the 202 downtown several months ago after his engine ate itself, causing a smoke cloud that quite literally enveloped central Phoenix. It was so bad that Phoenix Fire actually responded. No joke, they hopped off the truck, saw it was a VW bus with only a little bit of fire, then got back on the truck and left without even asking if he needed help. Their motto, "Protecting, serving, and...oh wait, garlic bread is done..."
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Apr 12, 2016 23:03
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Before I do the new carburetor on the bus, which could easily turn into a more-than-one-weekend project, I wanted to finish up putting all of the new front suspension parts on the beetle, so I had a comfortable daily driver as a backup. The only two things I really had left to do were the front tie rods, ball joints, and strut cartridge inserts. First step, the day before, spray all bolts and joints with a mix of ATF and acetone. I can't remember who mentioned it here (kastein?) but other than Seafoam Deep Creep, it's the best penetrant I have ever used.  I jacked up the car, and put it on some jackstands.  I have never done these jobs before all at once, so I took a chance and started with removing the balljoint bolts. 15mm.  Grabbed my cheap ebay separator  And popped applied vigorously to the balljoint.  On the first side I did, I mistakenly compressed the spring first, then tried to remove the strut top nut. Cue up 20 minutes of messing with my impact gun and vice grips before I got the top nut off.   (on the other side, I removed the nut under spring compression, which made things much easier) With the ball joint replaced (pictures missing of install, I just kind of took pictures whenever), I disconnected the brake lines from their tabs, and started removing the strut pieces.  The passenger side strut boot was in excellent shape, all one piece.  (The driver's side one was long since obliterated) Going to remove the strut insert.  Uhh, I don't think it's supposed to be sitting in a bath of it's own oil.  "Made in U.S.A." So, not OEM, then?   Ugh, I didn't really want to clean this out. I did the best I could with paper towels, and left the residue oil as a "rust protectant."  I don't have any pictures of the tie rod replacement, but that was the easy part, and nothing was too dramatic. Both balljoints and all four tie rod ends were worn, but not terribly so, and I maybe could have gotten away by skipping the balljoint replacement altogether. I like the security of having all new parts, and they're really a "while you're taking everything apart anyway" item. At only $15 each, I'd be an idiot not to replace them. Genuine Meyle parts, too. For the driver's side, I knew the right order to do things, so everything went much faster and more smoothly. For instance, I had to dig out a big pipe wrench to help get the strut retaining cap off (cap that holds the insert in) and by the second side I already had it next to me and adjusted, etc etc. Strut top nut, cartridge cap, and springs removed:  New shock cartridge going in.   And spacer cap in, which centers the cartridge.  Reassembly was reverse of removal. Time for the passenger side: 3 hours. Time for the driver's side: 45 minutes. Afterwards, I took the beetle off to Pep Boys to get an alignment. It was later in the day, and a lot of places that I preferred were closing soon, but Pep Boys was open until 1900. I showed up at 1630, and by 1700 the car was up on the lift. Unfortunately, I left my phone in the frunk for the procedure, but here's how I spent $90: 1710: Mechanic is seen sitting in front of my car, playing with an RC car 1730: Second mechanic has joined first mechanic. For some reason is wearing a cape made out of a trash bag. Both play with RC car. 1745: First mechanic comes in, asks me how to remove the dish plates from the wheels so he can attach laser alignment tool. I tell him the car has lug bolts, not studs, and he "suddenly remembers" he can use the holes in the wheel instead. 1800: Second mechanic is called over (he was sitting, eating a microwave meal) for questioning. Both ponder the underside of the car for 15 minutes. Might I add this is a 10-bay place and all the bays are full, and these are the only two on shift. 1815: Beetle almost rolls backwards off of ramp, everyone panics, but the ramp has those safety lips. 1825: After pondering the back axle of the car, first mechanic comes in and asks where the rear adjusters are. I tell him a front alignment is just fine, not wanting to risk anything on the rear. Mechanic clearly hasn't seen torsion bar suspension before, either, when I mention it. 1845: First mechanic comes in, says he can't figure out the camber or caster (lol) adjustment, asks if a toe-only adjust is okay. I tell him that's what I wanted anyway, and chuckle to myself as he leaves. But not really, actually I'm very disappointed, but whatever. 1850: Beetle is off of lift, out for test drive. 1855: They give me car back, steering wheel is sideways. 1900 (shop is closed now): Beetle is back up, being readjusted. 1930: Beetle is back from second test drive, I go home. I will admit, it drives straight, and the wheel is now straight. It's always been crooked a bit, because I'm lazy, but that's nice. However, they didn't have a single-axle alignment price, and were horeseplaying at least 50% of the time I was waiting. And, while all of the bays were full, I was the only waiting person, and no other car was touched during the entire 2.5 hours I was there. I mean, they lifted the hood of a Chrysler 300, but didn't do anything except for look at it and use it as a place to lean on while pondering the wonders of 45-year-old (really, 70-year-old) German technology before them. Stay the gently caress away from that place. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 03:55
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Repair update turns into a Yelp review. I rate your post: two stars. On a for realsie note, file a complaint and get your money back. It's too bad you didn't have your phone to film their stupid shenanigans. It sounds like these guys are about as competent as I am, which legitimately isn't saying much.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:28
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On the plus side, it no longer shudders the wheel under braking, and it is very smooth on roads. Well, as smooth as a beetle can be. I had zero damping before with the old shocks, as the damping fluid was being stored externally. I sent an email to PepBoys. I am anticipating nothing, but maybe if the rage festers inside for a few days I'll be bold enough to file a chargeback. They refused a reduced single axle or toe-only rate when I asked. I know how lovely being flat-rate is (as evidenced by Sir 14-inch's thread and insanity) but this was inappropriate. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 05:20
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No your doing the right thing. File a complaint 9 out of 10 times pep boys will drop to there knees and swallow for you. Also call the shop manager in the morning when he is there. Explain what happened. I worked at pep boys for a few years. And doing poo poo like you described would have gotten us a new rear end in a top hat. They are very customer oriented and the manager and gm side with the customer always.
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Apr 17, 2016 16:03
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Unless you are another competitor. We're banned from doing maintenence on our own store vehicles for lots of reasons that make sense, but are still dumb. The local pepboys we were delivering to offered to do an oil change for us because everyone else was taking way too long. It took them nearly 3 hours with 0 other cars in the shop and they still charged us $65. This was the breaking point for our commercial sales guy and now he does all the oil changes in the parking lot, corporate be damned.
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Apr 17, 2016 21:16
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Notes for myself for tomorrow because I am bad at keeping notes Put O-rings on idle jets carb cleaner idle passages Carb cleaner idle passage above closed butterfly valve Short story: put new used carb on, won't idle at all. Removed intake, made sure no big vacuum leaks, still won't idle. It will stay running revved up (past 2k or so) but sputters at idle. I'm going to break down and actually buy carb cleaner again.
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Apr 18, 2016 04:57
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Geirskogul posted:Notes for myself for tomorrow because I am bad at keeping notes I should add to that list: The second one was probably the most important one, but I now have 2.5 cans of spare carb cleaner for later. The bus starts, idles, and drives now. It doesn't seem to have as much slow-speed "grunt" before. With the dual carbs, even if they were poo poo-tier EMPI kits, I could still troll around a parking lot in 3rd gear, lugging the gently caress out of the engine (I understand that is bad, this is an example though). Now I have to use the appropriate gear, but that's fine. After I do a bunch of stuff today, I plan on taking it up on the freeway a bit to see if it can hold it. If I get equivalent or better top speed (70mph or so sustained max, 60 preferred, with the old setup) then I'll be happy. The point of moving "backwards" from a dual carb setup to a single centermount wasn't for an increase in power or speed, but to eliminate the bullshit that is syncing carbs, which was made exponentially more difficult by the quality of the existing setup. This one is genuine Weber, and if I get the same performance, I'll be happy. If I get better fuel mileage, I'll be ecstatic. Current mileage averaged 14.75mpg.
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Apr 18, 2016 20:44
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For what it's worth I managed a sustained 75+mph for a while on the freeway once with that carb in my bus. Would not recommend.Geirskogul posted:poo poo-tier EMPI What is it with VW people spending so much money on EMPI trash?
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Apr 18, 2016 21:13
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They were brand-loving-new when I picked the bus up in August, and 10k miles later every shaft and bushing is loose and worn and the entire carburetor rattles. I mean, the one you sold/donated to me rattles, too, but it was rebuildable and fixable. I have a feeling the seller wanted to get rid of the bus, but "a running car is worth 3x what a non-running car is," so he threw a $325 EPC34 kit on there to get it to move before listing it. Seriously, they were brand new. Here's a picture of them in the engine bay the day I picked it up. They stand out like a shiny thumb.  You can even see them in the video where I start it in his backyard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtSqk3h_y1c
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Apr 18, 2016 22:03
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Geirskogul posted:The CV axle replacement did not go as expected.
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Apr 19, 2016 02:31
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Weird picture to quote, but yeah. Took a long time to clean off. This one is still processing, but it shows the startup of the bus from cold. For some reason the original was upside-down, so I had to re-edit it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoW_fpRl2dI Now, I installed the new speedometer cable in the beetle, and it promptly broke again. With further investigation, I have discovered the speedometer itself is seized solid. Strange. Have to look out for a new one on ebay, it seems.
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Apr 19, 2016 03:16
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Replaced the speedometer in the beetle with a $35 ebay one. Works well, took the opportunity to open it up and clean/lube everything, and reset the odometer. The ebay one was only at 65 miles, anyway, and the numbers were still aligned, so it probably hadn't rolled over. Had corrosion on it consistent with sitting on a shelf forever, and no marks on the bezel from multiple installations (the aluminum speedo ring is press-fit into an aluminum mounting ring, and removal leaves scratches and dents). The speedometer cable I ordered, 2nd replacement, was too short. So I cut the end off of it and wire crimped it to the broken end of the new (but broken) existing cable. Seems to be working so far, and if it fails, it's literally a 5-minute replacement again. I emailed Pep-Boys with the timeline I posted earlier. I got one missed call from the manager, and had to call him back 3 or 4 times, leaving messages, before I got contact with him. It was tense, but I did just get a full refund in cash today. When I came back from the Pep-Boys, I noticed I had a few new decals that have arrived. I ordered a bunch, and am still waiting on one that may or may not show up from Bulgaria (!), but these are P cool I guess.   Tuning continues on the carburetor. There was a slight hesitation off of idle, and I thought it was too lean, so I was richening up the idle mixture. Turns out it was too rich, and leaning it out a bit has nearly fixed it. The single center carburetor is more cold-blooded than the dual EMPIs, so there's maybe a minute or two where I don't want to punch it too hard or it'll stall, but by the time I'm at the first stoplight everything is good. The dual carbs didn't even have chokes, so I had to deal with that garbage when it was cold. But otherwise they were immediately good-to-go. I'm getting ready to do my first fuel-up, which should hopefully make all of this worthwhile. It won't be as good (or as bad) as it the final numbers will be, because there has been a lot of idling and tuning going on, but it should show something. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 00:10
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First fill-up: 15.99 (let's say 16) MPG. Better than I've ever gotten before, but still poor. More tuning is required. I've lost a lot of bottom-end torque from what little I had to start with, but highway cruising is fine at 60mph, and up to 75 if needed. I think I need to figure out the idle circuit first, then maybe look into jetting both barrels. Taking off from a stop has been a bit shaky and sudden, with big jerks up and down in power based on RPM. So I'll clutch out, it'll start pulling, then jerk and buck forward, then go weak again. I've adjusted the idle screw in 1/2 turn, and will let the bus cool overnight. If it is worse, I'll adjust it out 1 full turn, let it cool, and check again as it comes up to temp. My hunch is I'm running lean at idle, as when I filled up the gas after a big drive then re-started it, I had a ton of torque, which is probably from the intake runners heat-soaking and evaporating the fuel in the carb barrel and intake plenum. It also reached a higher temp on the way to work (240 oil temp), which was on surface streets. Driving home on the freeway it barely broke 220. Of course, that could be air temps, but tomorrow's test will find out. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 10:59 on May 4, 2016 |
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May 4, 2016 10:56
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This is the best sticker I've ever seen.
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May 5, 2016 20:13
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Astonishing Wang posted:This is the best sticker I've ever seen. Thanks! I was searching for some Macho Man decals and found that, which is 100% better. Tuning update: leaned out the idle by 1/2 turn, it was better. Tried making it richer by 1 turn to test (1/2 turn richer than "baseline"), was way worse, and bogged on acceleration. Took it back to 1/2 turn lean, then tried to go another 1/2 leaner (1 full turn lean from baseline), was worse still. Back up to 1/4 turn leaner than baseline, was better than anything else. Didn't think 1/4 turn could matter so much. I'm used to "shotgun tuning" like with the stock carbs, or on my Enfield.
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May 5, 2016 22:04
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Updates: I found some Redline rejetting kits for weber carburetors online, and simultaneously read a TheSamba post from 2009 about how a dude with the same carburetor and same 1.7 engine called Redline and they gave him some jetting information. I found their email, and sent the following out (with boring bits removed, replaced with ellipsis): Email to Redline posted:I have a 1973 VW Bus (type 4 engine, 1700) ... and it has I got this email in reply (again, with a lot of swarf removed, this guy was very verbose): Guy from Redline posted:Good news Also I just noticed, while trimming this book down, that he has no punctuation and line breaks (I removed the line breaks) instead of using periods. But hey, at least it's a response. Though a 32/36 is not too small for this engine: it was used in engines with much larger displacements in other cars. But whatever. I also resumed some work on the motorcycle, trying to get it back on the road. The turn signal blinker housing was smashed in the wreck, but it was a fairly expensive ($15) electronic flasher, and it still functioned, so again the 3D printer comes to the rescue. I mean, I looked for pill bottles etc that were the right size first, because a 3D printer isn't the best choice for everything, but couldn't find anything.      (scotty peeler and OriginCal calipers cameo)
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May 8, 2016 02:40
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Yet another 1979 CB650 intermission, but it looks like the bike is about to get back on the road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LTT0LiR-jo Still fighting with the other driver's insurance about it ("Young America Insurance"), but at least it was less than $150 to get it back running.
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May 9, 2016 07:34
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Man if I could call myself the Soup Nazi of Carburetors I would have that embossed in lurid script on the back of a boxing jacket and wear that to work.
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May 9, 2016 17:43
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The rambling, Hunter S Thompson-esque style of writing makes me think he's actually a genius in one specific field. Got no time to learn good writin', ya hear? While going over one of the documents he sent as an attachment, I noticed something. My notes on disassembly:   The emulsion tubes were swapped  I opened it up, swapped them around to the way the manual states, and re-calibrated the idle circuit. Goes a hell of a lot faster, with a lot more torque now. Don't know how it will do at higher speeds, but around town it's much better 
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May 9, 2016 21:32
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Awesome news! It's always a relief when you find out something is simply in the wrong place. What's your 0-60 like, realistically?
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May 9, 2016 22:04
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"September 1961 Car Life Magazine posted:The VW weighed 2,310 pounds, yet its 25.6-second time in the quarter-mile was only about a half-second slower than the Chevy's, which had 80 horsepower but weighed 3,560 pounds. The 85-horsepower, 3,230-pound Ford turned a 23.3-second quarter-mile. That's for the 1961 splitty, though. For me, around a minute, though? 0-50 is like 40 seconds, but it's that last 10mph that gets you.
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May 9, 2016 22:20
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Welp, after a few more emails back and forth, I've determined that the guy at Redline is completely and utterly insane. I'm back on my own.
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May 11, 2016 01:27
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Spill
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May 11, 2016 21:37
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The Redline guy was just insane. Like how 14 Inch Nightstick posts, but the redline guy was just genuinely like that. He drifted pretty clearly into purely racist territory in regards to Chinese parts (complaining more about the people/culture than the manufacturing quality in some amazing tangents) so I stopped contact. I think I'm at that stage where it's more about my fine-tuning while driving than any help I can get online, anyway. Last fill-up with the bus was 17mpg, which is a genuine, no-poo poo improvement over 13 I was getting with the duals, so I'm getting there. I also understand that I'm hauling around a lot more weight than some people, so I can't expect the moon. I myself am heavier than most (250), the plywood/2x4 bed in the back is about another hundo, the framing and shelving probably fifty, the two extra batteries, the five gallon diesel tank and heater setup is another fifty (I don't keep it full, no reason when it takes less than a gallon to run for 24 hours), the bench seat, and all the tools I lug around. If I pass emissions in August, then I'm never turning back. We all remember the first emissions test and the four gallons of denatured alcohol it required  I don't have any pictures (I tend to say that a lot, jeeze), but today I worked a bit on the beetle. It had started marking its territory a little more than the customary drop or two, so I jacked it up and took a peek under its skirt. Both valve covers were weeping a bit, and upon removal I discovered that the cork gaskets had shrunk a little and "sucked in" some. In addition, the cork was completely black and hardened to a stone consistency. Remembering that Mafoose had gotten me a big can of the Right Stuff for AI:SS, I popped over in the Explorer to the local Autozone and picked up some Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets. Last time I had ordered the cheapest ten-pack of gaskets from <insert any VW aftermarket website here, I have used them all>, but they were probably the cheapest quality and I didn't want to do this again this summer. While I had the valve covers off, I adjusted the valve lash. I had adjusted them all probably 2-3000 miles ago to .0065 (a bit higher than the .006 spec because I do a lot of highway driving), and only maybe 1 or 2 couldn't cleanly fit the .006 shim in, but all of them definitely could get the .005, so I think I'm good. I readjusted them to .0065. Of course, nobody has a .0065 shim, so I just do them so that they're a little looser on the .006 but pretty tight on the .007 and call it good. After that, I cleaned off the valve covers and head surfaces, plopped a bit of the Right Stuff on, and re-installed the covers. I know that a lot of websites and manuals state to use sealant only on either the head or the valve cover side, not both, but the valve covers and head surfaces are pretty chewed up in places from POs probably using a flathead screwdriver to remove gasket material, and I haven't had any issues, so I use just a tiny bit on both sides. Since I had the beetle up on stands, I also drained the oil, and took the time to install the Fumoto (or maybe EZ Drain, can't remember the brand) oil drain valve. Instead of just removing the drain bolt and replacing the valve, I removed the entire oil strainer plate and strainer, and took the time to clean up all surfaces with some carburetor and/or brake cleaner. Then I sprayed both of the paper oil strainer gaskets with some copper gasket spray, and reinstalled.  Pictured: the oil strainer assembly The oil strainer itself only had a single small piece of some burned gasket or sealant caught in it, which is a million times better than it was when I first picked up the beetle two years ago. It originally had a maybe 1-2cm thick mud/sludge coating nearly every surface from the PO, but I change the oil regularly so I don't get that sludge buildup. However, frequent removal/installation of the strainer puts a lot of strain on those six outer studs, and you'll frequently see a beetle with a mishmash of different bolts holding the strainer plate on due to the owner stripping them out of the case.  Pictured: a turbofucked strainer plate I'm fairly confident in the cleanliness of the engine now, so I won't be removing the strainer plate every other oil change as the manual says. Instead, with more frequent oil changes made easier by the drain valve, I may do it once a year, tops, barring some engine catastrophe necessitating an inspection. You have to remember that I also have an oil filter/oil pump with an actual canister filter, whereas the original setup didn't have a filter at all, just the strainer. That's also my justification for not removing the strainer as often. The beetle is sitting stationary now to let the sealants cure a bit, and then I'll go back out and re-tighten the bolts a quarter or half turn to make sure everything is snug. Then I'll fill it up and pray for fewer leaks. Since I was already dirty, I also did some basic maintenance on the 1998 Explorer. It's over 210k miles so I'm starting to get wary of it, though I've already replaced the most commonly failed items: the intake manifold gaskets, and the PCV system (including the PCV mod for the 4.0 SOHC). I did the following: Lubed the throttle/cruise control cables Lubed the hood release cable Lubed the hood hinges and latch Checked the -- Tire pressure: 30-30-29-31: Good (filled all to 32 about six months ago, sticker is 26/28 for empty load) Oil: Good ATF: Good Power Steering: Good Brake Fluid: (good, but on the low side; topped up) Coolant: Overflow: Empty  that's not goodOpened the radiator cap, and I could see coolant, but it was maybe 2 inches below the top. Dang. I refilled the radiator with distilled water, and filled the coolant overflow to 1 inch below the top. Then I warmed the engine up and watched it slightly overflow the coolant reservoir tank (as expected). I'll need to keep an eye on it and maybe do a UV dye test, because after it was warm I couldn't see any particular leak areas. However, the 98 Explorer has maybe half of the common leak areas on the radiator and hoses covered with plastic sheathing and boxes, so it's difficult to immediately diagnose. If the coolant doesn't drop that quickly over the next month or so with 4x weekly driving (it's my fiancee's explorer) then I'll call it good and keep it topped off forever, and maybe start budgeting for a new radiator or hoses or whatever. The A/C doesn't work anyway (it's started leaking faster and faster recently, whereas it used to require just a yearly or bi-yearly top-up, and it's not an obvious leak) so I won't have to worry about a fancy 3-in-1 radiator/condenser like it currently has. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 01:58
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With the right stuff, I've only ever used it as a gasket. Worked great as a full on replacement for the notoriously fickle front / rear intake manifold seals on a SBC, and those are normally fairly thick rubber. The only time it sucks is removing it - it holds on hard.
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May 23, 2016 03:13
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Yeah, I haven't actually used it for its intended purpose yet. The only thing I used it for was to seal the aluminum plate on the bus that has the power outlet and diesel vent on it. Seems to be UV-resistant so far, too. Before I would seal the valve gaskets with ultra black, but the Right Stuff was easier to apply and it seems pretty skookum. Anyway, I snapped some pictures to make this thread less boring. First, the oil drain valve:   Dusty engine:  Some lovely blanking plates I have hodgepodge glued into the dash vent holes. Keeps the bugs out, and pretty much good for nothing else:   The ebay speedo:  Latest decal additions for the bus:   The rear door on the bus is super dented and ratty. Add to that my lovely paintjob, and you end up with a person that gives no fucks. I've gone full retard.  After the work today, I went out to get some beer. But, since I've gone full R, I ended up falling for marketing.      I have no idea how it tastes yet.
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May 23, 2016 03:33
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Well, today has been a rollercoaster of stress. I woke up (or, more accurately, was woken up) at around 11:00 by a loud "BANG." I ran outside to see one of my neighbor's exes slashing the rear tires on the beetle. By the time I got outside she was just finishing up the second one, and I started screaming at her. She sped off in her car. Last night at around 3 AM she had shown up at the neighbor's door, drunk and/or high, while screaming at him. Last year the HOA got a restraining order against her, but that was before my deployment and I guess they're only good for a year, so she's back. I called the cops on her last night because she was clearly going to drive away drunk as poo poo, and I guess she just woke up or something and decided to enact revenge. Took the cops around an hour to show up, and the officer said he knew exactly who I was talking about and would keep me updated. Asked if I wanted to press charges (of course) and the cost of new tires ($200 with mounting). Hopefully he calls back.   The only very tiny, miniscule, diminuitive, atom-esque bit of good news is that I had just recently rotated the tires because I had just gotten an alignment, so the tires on the rear were nearly bald over 50% of the tread due to the front toe being off for a couple thousand miles.        Now, what makes this a rollercoaster of emotion is that, while I was waiting for the cop to show up, I took a peek under the beetle and noticed a little furball wedged between the front tire and the concrete parking stop. Upon closer inspection, it was a teeny tiny kitten that was acting either dead, or near-death. I gently picked it up, and discovered it was still breathing, but otherwise was totally limp.  I brought him inside, and immediately got some water into him. At least he was still licking if I used a syringe to drop water into his mouth, but just barely. Then, I worked on cleaning up his eye.  It's been a few hours (I had to do the tire swap because today is my only day off, and I had to talk with the officer) but after some milk substitute and cat kibble soaked in milk substitute, I think he's doing better.  
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May 24, 2016 02:00
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Good on you for saving that kitten!
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May 24, 2016 02:44
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Grats on your new catte.
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May 24, 2016 04:12
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I have too many cattes. Need to bring this one to a no-kill shelter once he's up and about.
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May 24, 2016 04:27
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Nice job with the cat. That tire slasher must be a complete nut-case. People are terrible.
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May 24, 2016 05:06
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I have taken an animal that was completely limp and barely breathing, without any pupil focus or eye movement, and have given it LIFE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-yYn6dGkys
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May 24, 2016 07:17
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39NLgxRhjrU
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May 24, 2016 07:22
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Oh man. I also had too many cats and came across an almost dead kitten at a friends condo complex. Drove him and hour back to my house in a box and _poured_ him out of it, thinking I had a corpse. Water and food revived him and even though I really should have taken him to a shelter but he developed this intense loyalty to me and wanted nothing but to sit on my lap and purr all the time so I couldn't bring myself to do it.
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May 24, 2016 07:54
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:56 |
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I am not a cat person (terribly allergic), but you've done a good thing here.
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May 24, 2016 07:59
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