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Serenade posted:I've been scooping up models on ebay I intend to paint and rebase. The OP has good information on stripping paint, but some of these resin and metal models are glued to the base. Is there a magic chemical I can use to separate them, or do I need to destroy the base? Worst case is a Deathripper which has been detached from the base in shipping, except for a single toe. Assuming its superglue, you can put the model in the freezer and it will weaken the bond and often let you snap it cleanly off. It's not perfect though and leaves a fair amount of glue residue to scrape/clean off, but if you're already planning to do a bunch of work to restore these models it's not much more.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:31
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That depends on what kind of glue you're dealing with. For metals glued with superglue, you can just soak them in acetone, which strips the paint and turns the superglue to jelly. I think acetone will dissolve resin. However, you can put the resin guys in the freezer to weaken the superglue and pry the pieces apart.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:32
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From the 40k thread, did some more jungle Pathfinders today:   Riptide in the works.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:45
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:From the 40k thread, did some more jungle Pathfinders today: You are doing an absolute fantastic job! The basing really ties it together but the effort you put in on the edging and highlight shows really well.
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Apr 16, 2016 22:58
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Serenade posted:I've been scooping up models on ebay I intend to paint and rebase. The OP has good information on stripping paint, but some of these resin and metal models are glued to the base. Is there a magic chemical I can use to separate them, or do I need to destroy the base? Worst case is a Deathripper which has been detached from the base in shipping, except for a single toe. Super Clean will break down superglue and it will just pop off the model (along with removing paint as well.) The resin will be unaffected.
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Apr 17, 2016 01:28
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Chill la Chill posted:I used to do watercolor and pencil sketching regularly but haven't enjoyed freehanding on minis that often because of the curved areas. Thanks for the pro-tip about sketching with a pencil though. Never thought of that. I just used a permanent marker to outline my graffiti-laden space truck before: Credit where credit is due I got that tip from a white dwarf 17 years ago on painting thorn patterns on Eldar tanks. Ironically I find it easier to freehand on miniatures than paint on paper. I hated watercolours. I aztec my ships by hand  Some skirt work 
Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 03:37
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Z the IVth posted:Ironically I find it easier to freehand on miniatures than paint on paper. I hated watercolours. Heretic, I'll break your fingers for that. 
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Apr 17, 2016 04:39
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Z the IVth posted:I aztec my ships by hand 
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Apr 17, 2016 04:53
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An Egyptian sarcophagus on a flight stand?
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Apr 17, 2016 05:06
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Z the IVth posted:I aztec my ships by hand This is Chris Foss as hell and I love it.
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Apr 17, 2016 07:44
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I went ahead and picked up the scale 75 metal n alchemy steel series. I've only used Black Metal so far, but it is so much better than the other metallics I was using. I read a few reviews that said they behave differently than other metallics but they weren't very specific. Is there anything I should be keep in mind or is the only real difference the obviously superior coverage and smooth application?
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Apr 17, 2016 08:02
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Does anyone know of a print shop in Europe that does custom stencils? I've got a couple of designs ready to go, but other than US-based Fallout Hobbies I can't find anything.
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Apr 17, 2016 10:33
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Z the IVth posted:I aztec my ships by hand Hence why I'm compromising and decided to make a simpler skeleton that won't be as repetitive as the Eldar one I showed earlier.
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Apr 17, 2016 14:22
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Z the IVth posted:I aztec my ships by hand That's a Vaygr Carrier 
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Apr 17, 2016 14:31
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Does anyone either know of someone or know how I could find someone who does one on one lessons in the Philadelphia area? Just looking to hire for some occasional one on one time to get in person feedback and critique as I move on to some techniques that give me more difficulty. I will be practicing them regardless, but think some sort of in person instruction would be much more beneficial and expedient than me just fumbling through it on my own.
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Apr 17, 2016 16:23
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Thanks for the freezer tip, worked on everything except a pistol wraith which required the base to be undone and a single bonejack toe left behind. That's ok though, I wanted a hard excuse to learn how to use green stuff for future projects anyway.
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Apr 17, 2016 16:24
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Thanks to whomever recommended the vibration reduction things for the Sparmax compressors. My big old honking compressor is now isolated from my desk!
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Apr 17, 2016 22:37
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dexefiend posted:Thanks to whomever recommended the vibration reduction things for the Sparmax compressors. My big old honking compressor is now isolated from my desk! Glad it helped! Did you fit it to a TC-610H or another model? Just interested if the M5 feet are common across the range.
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Apr 17, 2016 22:39
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TTerrible posted:Glad it helped! Did you fit it to a TC-610H or another model? Just interested if the M5 feet are common across the range. I have the tanked one with 2 outputs, whichever that one is. Edit: TC-620 dexefiend fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Apr 18, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 23:29
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Vallejo Model Air are pretty weird. They're sold as airbrush paints, but I picked up Steel not realizing it was for airbrushes, and it's amazing. It's really thin, but covers like nothing I've seen before. I then picked up their Gunmetal, Gold, and Tin metallics, and they're all just watery goop which covers really badly - Which I guess is fair enough, since they're airbrush paints. But after the nirvana of Steel, I was really disappointed. Is Steel just the outlier here, and if so, are there any other great colors in there for brush-painting?
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Apr 18, 2016 12:57
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VMA Silver is great AFAIK. if you want amazing brush & airbrush metals look at Vallejo's new Metal Colour range. It's basically every shade of aluminium and metal you could want, and then a few more you had no idea about.
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Apr 18, 2016 13:09
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Serenade posted:I've been scooping up models on ebay I intend to paint and rebase. The OP has good information on stripping paint, but some of these resin and metal models are glued to the base. Is there a magic chemical I can use to separate them, or do I need to destroy the base? Worst case is a Deathripper which has been detached from the base in shipping, except for a single toe. I just got finished removing some superglue that I'd messed up on a couple models, one way you can go about it in addition to what the others said, is that acetone eats right through superglue. But it can also eat through plastic, but if you're working on metal should probably be safe? Even on resin/plastic you can just be real careful about how you use it and it should be okay? Worked for me. I got a q-tip wet with acetone (nail polish remover) and lightly rubbed it on the superglue, then let that kinda soak in for a moment and then picked at it with an x-acto knife, and then after scraping a bit away I wiped it with acetone again, back and forth to work all that gunk off. Only thing is getting it underneath the cracks of the feet could be tough, especially without damaging the feet. Again though if they're metal you can probably go nuts, I don't think it'll damage the metal. Avenging Dentist posted:That depends on what kind of glue you're dealing with. For metals glued with superglue, you can just soak them in acetone, which strips the paint and turns the superglue to jelly. I think acetone will dissolve resin. However, you can put the resin guys in the freezer to weaken the superglue and pry the pieces apart. E:FB Zaphod42 fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Apr 18, 2016 |
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Apr 18, 2016 16:08
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Privateer Press restic is okay with acetone for brief stints (15 minutes or so) depending on thickness of the item. It will tend to get soft which might be useful for reposing greater than the typical hot water method. It will eventually return to normal stiffness, but too long exposure and it will stay kind of bendy almost like Bones plastic. I have some Bombardiers I learned this on and even a few months later they're a little flexible albeit nowhere near as bad. The plastic bases almost immediately start breaking down from acetone, however.
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Apr 18, 2016 17:48
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I sort of figured out what I was doing wrong in regards to thinning my paints. Whenever I'd use the ratios other people recommend I'd get an uncontrollable flood similar to a wash. Turns out you paint with just the tip, as gently as possible. I'm not sure if I feel inspired to get better or just like a disheartened idiot. Does anyone have advice for two brush blending in low (under 10%) humidity. Or just painting in low humidity in general? Paint forms a ring in less than a second. I thin with distilled water mixed with flow aid. Now that I know how to thin my paints moisture control has been giving me a lot of trouble. Edit: On a more positive note, I finished my first unit!  10 of them, I might upload a group shot once I have a decent setup for photography. As I've previously mentioned I hated working with the metallics on these. Black/grey for the skulls was also probably a mistake, the Bile Thralls I'm working on look much better with brown. Without natural sunlight they look like grey-green blobs. I'm tempted to redo them with more flesh tones. That way I get in some much needed practice painting skin while having a good excuse if they look hosed up or awful. KPC_Mammon fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Apr 18, 2016 |
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Apr 18, 2016 20:17
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Ive air brushed some screamers with emerald and turqouise from the vallejo model colour range and now, a good week or so later, the moment I put a wet brush on them the colour is becoming liquid again. Never had this happen before and although I've managed to turn this into some sweet accidental wet blending, I'd rather my layers stayed dry once they were... dry. Anyone else had this before and know what's up?
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Apr 18, 2016 21:01
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Did you use any fancy thinner, flow improver or drying retarder? Especially in large quantities?
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Apr 18, 2016 21:26
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A layer of acrylic medium after the paint might prevent that.
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Apr 18, 2016 21:53
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Hi painting thread, I haven't been by in like 1900 posts. I suffered a pretty bad confidence setback last year, coupled with a general painting malaise. I got myself back on the horse a few months back, did up a couple models and managed to win the paint award in a WarmaHordes Journeyman League. That led to a friend of a friend asking me to do a commission job for him, which I accepted. I've got half of the 30k box set game done up and I wanted to stop by for some feedback. I still haven't started airbrush work, I'm working on my layering, washing, glazing and since doing these models, sponging techniques. Anyways, here's my poo poo.        
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Apr 19, 2016 01:48
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Geisladisk posted:Vallejo Model Air are pretty weird. I did the same thing with the VMA hull red, and it turned into an awesome mahogany colour that was great for leather and wood effects when used over white primer. I am going to try some others. Please post again if you find others that work like that.
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Apr 19, 2016 02:15
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koreban posted:
Solid Work 
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Apr 19, 2016 02:16
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Geisladisk posted:Vallejo Model Air are pretty weird. I love the VMA metallics for regular brush painting but quality control isn't their strong suit. I've bought three different bottles of Bright Brass and they were three different shades/consistencies. One was super watery and had very little pigment in it so it was more like a slightly yellowish steel. One was very dark and turned into solid goop in a month or so. The third hit the Goldilocks zone. Had a similar problem with gold, and the Copper I have is very thin. But the Arctic Blue, Silver, Black and the Steel - fantastic.
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Apr 19, 2016 02:35
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KPC_Mammon posted:
Yeah if you are flooding the model the issue is too much paint on your brush, not too thin. But you know that now. The literal advice I have heard from pros regarding wet blending in dry climates "don't, but if you must then buy some drying retarder".
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Apr 19, 2016 04:54
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah if you are flooding the model the issue is too much paint on your brush, not too thin. But you know that now. The literal advice I have heard from pros regarding wet blending in dry climates "don't, but if you must then buy some drying retarder". Awesome! That makes me feel so much better. I'll stick with layering and glazing, which I find pretty fun.
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Apr 19, 2016 05:23
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Lethemonster posted:Ive air brushed some screamers with emerald and turqouise from the vallejo model colour range and now, a good week or so later, the moment I put a wet brush on them the colour is becoming liquid again. Not quite the same but I've had similar stuff happen when I don't or forget to clean out all the soap I used to clean a brush or the model itself. But in those cases the paint just peels right off when I put a brush to it.
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Apr 19, 2016 05:26
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Those are really nice, Koreban. Clean and crisp. Are you going to do your EC in a similar way?
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Apr 19, 2016 06:24
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Cross-posting from the oath thread.JackMann posted:Oath complete!
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Apr 19, 2016 07:19
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BULBASAUR posted:Those are really nice, Koreban. Clean and crisp. Are you going to do your EC in a similar way? That's the plan. I need to work on my layering to make sure I get the vibrancy I'm looking for, but that'll probably be close to what the finished product should get to. I'm doing to do some additional detailing with some of the interstitial paneling on the armor. Some guy on the 30k forums did it and it looked amazing. It's the proper legion for pridefulness.
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Apr 19, 2016 08:05
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The Frostgrave Cultist sprues are great for random bits, so I mixed them in with some of the spare Skeleton bits from the KoW Undead Starter to make some  Just need to wait a few months for some optimal priming conditions.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:29
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richyp posted:The Frostgrave Cultist sprues are great for random bits, so I mixed them in with some of the spare Skeleton bits from the KoW Undead Starter to make some Just get some brush on primer. Or use an airbrush if you have one.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:33
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Any particular recommendations for airbrush friendly primer?
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Apr 19, 2016 16:35
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