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Full Circle posted:Any particular recommendations for airbrush friendly primer? Vallejo Surface Primer!!!
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Apr 19, 2016 16:37
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I tried Badger Stynylrez for a while, it is good but I got so annoyed with the name and how expensive it is I just switched back to Vallejo.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:39
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just get some brush on primer. Or use an airbrush if you have one. Don't own an airbrush and too lazy to brush on primer, I'll just do my usual approach of spraying white primer outside and bringing the models inside after a few minutes. Just need to keep the can indoors for a bit to acclimatize.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:42
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Something that might be useful for people on a budget who still want some of that sweet, sweet airbrush priming and varnishing. When I started painting I primed with a cheap crap airbrush, a pressure regulator from ebay, and one of these guys, modified as an air supply:  Pump it up, prime 4 models, pump it up again. Worked great for a year, for next to no money. Then I bought a compressor and I haven't looked back.
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Apr 19, 2016 17:07
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Full Circle posted:Any particular recommendations for airbrush friendly primer? Vallejo Grey Primer Just don't accidentally buy their primer colored paint, look for "Surface Primer" on the label.
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Apr 19, 2016 21:46
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Scale 75 paints are all a few shades lighter than advertised.They're the colour you would buy if you wanted to highlight the colour on the label. The white is also garbage.
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Apr 19, 2016 22:32
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sassassin posted:Scale 75 paints are all a few shades lighter than advertised.They're the colour you would buy if you wanted to highlight the colour on the label. I have not found this to be the case with the blue-greys or the yellow-browns at least.
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Apr 19, 2016 23:27
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It's been a while since I finished anything, but I finished something! A Hellhound! My camera sucks as a camera, but does a pretty good job as a phone, so whatever.      I'm no Yeast, but I'm very happy with how this came out.
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Apr 20, 2016 06:16
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The Sex Cannon posted:It's been a while since I finished anything, but I finished something! A Hellhound! My camera sucks as a camera, but does a pretty good job as a phone, so whatever. guess my next vehicle purchase! (once i'm done with my sentinels, chimera and vendetta)
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Apr 20, 2016 06:42
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Frobbe posted:guess my next vehicle purchase! (once i'm done with my sentinels, chimera and vendetta) Buy my entire army. Theres a hellhound in it.
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Apr 20, 2016 10:22
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Anyone know if there have been models painted in this desaturated, watercolor style?   Trying to remember the names of other series that aren't Nausicaa that also use this art style but it's amazing and I might try giving it a go if it looks good on minis.
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Apr 20, 2016 20:45
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know if there have been models painted in this desaturated, watercolor style? Pretty much all of the Ghibli art books have that kind of stuff in them. It was basically the house style. I don't know of any physical minis, but the first Valkyria Chronicles made an attempt at mimicking that kind of thing on a 3D model. The Atelier video game series does a similar thing as VC. Any thought on how you're going to emulate the look? Like, how to fake a paper texture?
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Apr 20, 2016 20:51
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Oh right. I forget that Totoro and the others look the same way in the concept art books. Also, faking the paper texture the problem. I've done some experimenting with a millenium falcon model while I was re-learning how to wet blend and gave it a more watercolor look. However it's flat and doesn't really convey the natural blotchy effect that watercolor gives off. I've thought about intentionally making things too wet and allowing it to dry and hoping it doesn't leave water rings, but the only way I've been able to get the look every now and again is purely on accident. Maybe if I use an off-white as a basecoat/primer base and work on that? Maybe try going with a monochrome palette and haphazardly blend colors to achieve that look?
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Apr 20, 2016 20:57
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Rifling through the garage found all the skaven from the old Island of Blood. So here's a KoW Ratmen weapon team.
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Apr 20, 2016 20:59
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One issue with the desaturated look is making the details stand out on a mini. Most techniques with minis are intended to increase the contrast so that the eye can pick out details on the tiny model. Desaturation is going to tend to make the details harder to pick out. I don't think this is an insurmountable problem, but you're going to have to really plan out your color scheme.
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Apr 20, 2016 22:51
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Crossposting from the Oath Thread. My latest project is complete. It is a Rhino that I did quite a bit of work on to get just right.   
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Apr 21, 2016 00:45
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Painted some KoW Ghouls. I'm waiting for some movement trays that are currently somewhere in the postal system, so I'm not basing them until they arrive. Here's they are with the rest of their undead buddies from earlier in the month. 
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Apr 21, 2016 14:47
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Chill la Chill posted:Oh right. I forget that Totoro and the others look the same way in the concept art books. My thought would be to prime white, then sponge all over with a medium fleshtone. That'll get you the color and texture fiddlyness you'd want from good watercolor paper, but you'd still be out of luck with the desaturated paints themselves. Maybe a shitload of glaze passes?
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Apr 21, 2016 15:44
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know if there have been models painted in this desaturated, watercolor style? Desaturate by cutting your paint with tiny amounts of grey and glaze over a white undercoat. That's how I would do it anyway.
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Apr 21, 2016 16:56
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll be trying it on one of my other x-wing models with a large surface area, which I think is the best way to start with these things. If things go well I can maybe paint a nice cherry blossom scene on it, or maybe the Totoro picnic scene. It'll be much harder on an infantry model which is ideally what I'd like to try later.
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Apr 21, 2016 18:43
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That first one just looks like it's been dipped in devlan mud tbh
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Apr 21, 2016 19:37
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Ive sprayed my minis with the un-set paint with some matt varnish so hopefully that will prevent more surprised for now. I had another question about green paints (and a few other colours but it occurs with EVERY green paint I own). The texture: I can never get green to feel like a smooth mix. It always looks/feels tacky or plasticky? Any time I have to apply it by brush I feel like I'm handling something made up in PVA glue rather than medium and additives. Anyone have any ideas how I can fix it? It spreads onto models streaky too, regardless of dilution.
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Apr 21, 2016 19:55
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I painted some Trollkin Scouts. They're cool sculpts with bad rules, but hopefully better with the soon to be released Mk3 rules!   
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Apr 22, 2016 03:51
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For anyone in the UK still using a game system with square bases and wanting a nice way to store them rather than just throwing them in a box (or for some odd reason play with them if you were that way inclined), I ordered a few movement trays from warbases, 3 regiment trays (5x4 20mm bases) and 6 troop ones (5x2 20mm bases) both sets had the extra 3mm raised edge so that the KoW bases would be the same height as the lip. They're really decent quality, the bases fit nice and snug and they were cheap: £1.10 each for the Troop tray, and £1.40 for the Regiment tray and that's with the additional 3mm top layer added. I didn't buy any but they also do trays that will take the KoW "Peg" bases directly skipping the need to attach the models to a square base first, but I'm old and set in my ways so I went for the traditional version. Here's some pictures:  A regiment 5x4 and Troop 5x2 tray.  And filled.  And here's a shot showing the base of a model flush to the lip. Downside is now I have to paint the rest of units and base the ones I haven't based yet.
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Apr 22, 2016 13:51
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Fyrbrand posted:I painted some Trollkin Scouts. They're cool sculpts with bad rules, but hopefully better with the soon to be released Mk3 rules! I had to google Trollkin Scouts to confirm that yes, the official sculpts for them have one of them stealing a pig. Trolls. 
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Apr 22, 2016 16:00
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Hey guys, I've been trying to wash lately using black paint heavily watered down, which is what I've used for a while, and I'm getting a kind of "beading" effect where the water and paint are kind of "recoiling" and bunching up to make splotches. It didn't use to do this; any idea what's causing it?
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Apr 22, 2016 17:01
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Surface tension. It might be a difference in the paint you're applying the wash to, the fact that the pH of your black paint has changed as it has aged, or even a slight difference in the quality of your water. Fortunately, it's an easy fix - add a drop of Future Floor Wax (or equivalent) or even a tiny bit of dish detergent to your wash. That will cut the surface tension and make it settle into the cracks and crevices the way it should.
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Apr 22, 2016 17:44
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Ilor posted:Surface tension. It might be a difference in the paint you're applying the wash to, the fact that the pH of your black paint has changed as it has aged, or even a slight difference in the quality of your water. Would a drop or two of white spirit do the same kinda thing? Not that I don't have any dish detergent, just it's all the way over there and my white spirit is over here. Also less weird questions about why I have the dish liquid in the model room.
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Apr 22, 2016 18:23
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White spirits are for thinning oil paints, not water-based acrylics. In any case, there's a big difference between thinning the consistency/viscosity and breaking surface tension.
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Apr 22, 2016 18:26
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Detergent it is. Thanks.
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Apr 22, 2016 18:36
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Just put some dish detergent in an empty dropper bottle and keep it with your paint stuff. I think this is such a good idea that I'm doing it when I get home.
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Apr 22, 2016 18:39
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I tested it out and it's hugely better, yeah. gently caress, I've got a load of hosed-up T-34s now that're going to look really poo poo next to the good ones 
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Apr 22, 2016 18:56
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With some touch-ups, you might be able to sell it as weathering or scorching.
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Apr 22, 2016 21:38
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spectralent posted:I tested it out and it's hugely better, yeah. gently caress, I've got a load of hosed-up T-34s now that're going to look really poo poo next to the good ones Absolute worst case scanario, you loop back around after you finish the rest of them and use some chemicals to strip the paint and do it again. Bit of a pain, but I may end up doing that to some of my minis anyways because my painting skill is improving steadily as I work my way through a full army. The last guys I do are gonna look a good bit better than the first few, although I put off doing the big fancy HQs for last for that very reason.
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Apr 22, 2016 21:45
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What do you folks recommend for a sandable gap filler? Liquid greenstuff is doing too little and greenstuff doesn't sand very well.
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Apr 22, 2016 22:27
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BULBASAUR posted:What do you folks recommend for a sandable gap filler? Liquid greenstuff is doing too little and greenstuff doesn't sand very well. I like Mr. Dissolved Putty.
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Apr 22, 2016 22:38
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Zaphod42 posted:Absolute worst case scanario, you loop back around after you finish the rest of them and use some chemicals to strip the paint and do it again. I have this amazing organisation strategy called "no strategy" where I just pick whatever I feel like painting so some of those T-34s are literal months away from the others 
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Apr 22, 2016 22:52
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I came home from work to find this: Why, it's the can of Quick Shade I ordered! Hooray!  The guy sent a can of stain in an envelope. What the gently caress. The best part is that it was almost dry by the time I got home!
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Apr 22, 2016 23:38
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https://thelostandthedamned.wordpress.com/2016/04/22/salute-2016-sci-fi/ There's some really neat looking stuff coming out of Salute. The Mad Max stuff specifically is inspiring and I'm still a little down that Mantic didn't make a Mad Max game.
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Apr 22, 2016 23:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:I came home from work to find this: That's grody, I'd offer to send you my can of mostly unused shade, but shipping that stuff across borders isn't easy.
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Apr 23, 2016 00:20
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