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loving snyped like a boss posted:Okay. I'll work on that. I have roughly 50 years of rangefinder history to summarize, some photos to find or take, and some cool photography examples to hunt down. if the op isn't filled with cats it's trash
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Apr 15, 2016 04:06
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:09 |
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Since when are megathreads out of vogue? Do we really need a spin-off thread for every single camera system? Just go to the camera thread and talk about cameras.
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Apr 15, 2016 04:37
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Mr. Despair posted:if the op isn't filled with cats it's trash I have dogs not cats. Can it be dogs? 
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Apr 15, 2016 04:37
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windex posted:I have dogs not cats. Can it be dogs? i guess you can't expect much from a loser who thinks rangefinders are cool
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Apr 15, 2016 05:28
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VelociBacon posted:After spending all my money on digital gear I joined the club today, picked up this ME Super with grip/winder, and 80-200 RMC Tokina. Total cost was $55 Canadian so I'm feeling pretty good. Gotta find a prime 35mm now. Just wanted to say I managed to get this working today by some miracle and despair's help. Got some lubricant in there and some cleaner and found some things that had become uncatched and hooked them back up and put everything back together and it worked. Putting a test roll through it now and wow this lens is a bulky thing on here. Time for a prime.
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Apr 15, 2016 06:36
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^^ awesome I am just chiming in to say I've been having really good success with the Rollei Digibase C-41 kit lately. It's amazing what a proper laboratory grade thermometer will do. I've been processing several rolls of Fuji Superia 800 and it's all been coming out with very minimal color casts (or none at all). It's mostly all kid pictures, though, so nothing worth sharing here  I actually prefer this liquid Digibase kit over the Tetenal/Unicolor powder kits because you can split the kit into smaller batches while keeping the remaining concentrate unspoiled. The developer comes in three different bottles marked A, B, and C, plus a starter. So as long as they're kept separate, the shelf life is as long as any powder kit. This lets you do smaller 5-6 roll development batches instead of having to save up and binge develop 15-20 rolls over the course of a couple weeks. I suppose you could technically split up the powder kits too, but it's not guaranteed the powder mix is homogeneous. The only downside is that this kit is no longer shipping out of the UK at all anymore. My canadian supplier dried up, and b&h, freestyle, etc no longer carry it. People online say that the Digibase kit is just a rebranded Fuji Hunt kit, but I can't find that anywhere either.
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Apr 20, 2016 19:02
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Fotoimpex.de and Macodirect.de both carry liquid C-41 and E-6 kits, including Digibase branded ones. I don't know if they have any shipping restrictions on them, though.
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Apr 20, 2016 20:54
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Apparently the restriction has always been there, but it's DHL actually enforcing it now.
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Apr 20, 2016 20:55
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I can rent pretty much any modern Nikon lens I want thanks to university equipment, so I got this. Bonus is that the dof preview button makes a nice 'hey i'm taking a photograph' sound, so now people at events think they get a picture and don't get mad.   Not sure i'll ever use that grip, though. Grimarest fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Apr 20, 2016 |
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Apr 20, 2016 23:10
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BANME.sh posted:^^ awesome Good to hear that you've got he C41 process sorted out. The digibase kit is easily my favourite for the reasons you noted above, but I think I'm going to be stuck with powdered kits if I'm going to be doing it myself, as I think getting a digibase kit to Australia is going to be tough task.
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Apr 21, 2016 06:40
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I got an Olympus 35 DC, pretty cool little camera. It has a leaf shutter, and this thing sounds so hilariously weak when I fire the shutter, I almost think it's not working. The best I can describe it as a "pzzzzzzz" noise. I have a roll being developed, but people who have had this kind of camera/shutter - is that what these sound like?
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Apr 21, 2016 15:21
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Yeah leaf shutters are quiet and dinky
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Apr 21, 2016 15:55
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Usually sounds like a very soft click.
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Apr 22, 2016 01:06
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Hey guys. I'm looking at possibly getting a Canon AE-1 as babby's first camera and I have a few questions. First, is this a good or a bad idea. Bearing in mind I don't want to spend a lot to start with. Secondly, one I saw on ebay had the shutter speed tested and gave results like this: "At 1/1000 second, we measured - 1/590 At 1/500 second - we measured - 1/370" Can someone please explain what this actually means in practical terms? I can't tell if this matters a great deal, they haven't really said anything about these results on the listing. Not all the speeds were inaccurate, about half were
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Apr 23, 2016 01:55
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Paperhouse posted:Hey guys. I'm looking at possibly getting a Canon AE-1 as babby's first camera and I have a few questions. First, is this a good or a bad idea. Bearing in mind I don't want to spend a lot to start with. Secondly, one I saw on ebay had the shutter speed tested and gave results like this: They're good cameras, but I know they're known to have electrical issues. Sounds like the shutter speed is not firing at the correct speed, I wouldn't buy that. I swear by the Nikon FE as a first camera, and those are built like tanks.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:00
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I'm not a Canon expert but unlike Nikon I think Canon changes their mounts a lot, which means that you might be stuck with some specific lenses if you want more modern options. I see Canon AE-1 all the time and you can't go wrong with a manual focus slr. It means that the shutter speeds are off and will let in more light than the speed it is set to. If you meter for those speeds your picture will be tad overexposed. I'm sure you can find one in better shape for not much more, they sold a lot of AE-1. edit: ^^^ Yeah as he said, there are tons of equivalent options. Look into Nikon FE, FE2, FM, FM2, Pentax K-1000 too. Grimarest fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Apr 23, 2016 |
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Apr 23, 2016 02:03
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The AE-1 is a solid camera, and you can't go wrong with it. Some people don't like that it's shutter priority but I find it prevented me from getting as many shaky shots as a beginner, because I pretty much just kept it at 1/60 second the whole time and let the camera decide where to put the aperture. It uses now discontinued FD mount lenses, which aren't compatible with modern digital Canon cameras without an adapter. The upside to this is that FD mount lenses are considerably cheaper than any of the other brands (Vintage Nikon F and Pentax K mount lenses both work with their modern digital bodies so the demand for them is higher). The 1/500 and 1/1000 shutter speeds are notoriously inaccurate across many different camera brands and models, I've found. I try to keep my shots at 1/250 or lower, if possible, just in case. From the figures you posted, it looks like your camera will over expose by 1 stop at 1/1000 speed and by about 1/3 of a stop at 1/500 speed. That's not terrible, and overexposing with film is usually not a big deal. If the price is an absolute bargain, I'd say it's not a bad compromise for your first camera. That said, they are almost a dime a dozen so I am sure you can find another one with more accurate speeds. BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 23, 2016 |
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Apr 23, 2016 02:16
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Paperhouse posted:Hey guys. I'm looking at possibly getting a Canon AE-1 as babby's first camera and I have a few questions. First, is this a good or a bad idea. Bearing in mind I don't want to spend a lot to start with. Secondly, one I saw on ebay had the shutter speed tested and gave results like this: Buy an ME Super.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:28
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Thanks for the replies. This one in particular is cheaper than some, but not all of the ones I've looked at. I was mainly curious to know if the shutter speed issue is a definite "don't buy that" problem, I mean it's the only one where the seller has actually even given results of a shutter speed test. I have looked at the other cameras mentioned but they all seem to be a step more expensive than the Canon - it looks like I could even get one with multiple lenses for less than just one equivalent camera
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Apr 23, 2016 02:29
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Dont get an AE1. An olympus Om1 is nice if you want all-mechanical, all manual operation and there are some nice olympus lenses. Or an ME Super. And yeah if the 1/1000 shutter speed is almost half of what it should be that probably isn't a good thing yeah? https://www.keh.com/shop/olympus-om1n-chrome-without-shoe-4-35mm-camera-body.html https://www.keh.com/shop/olympus-zuiko-50mm-f-1-8-manual-focus-normal-lens-702203.html Less than $100 for an indestructible camera.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:36
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The OM1 is nice but takes obsolete mercury batteries and you'll be struggling with finicky zinc-air replacements or adapters. I've also owned two and the light meters were way off in both, with the correct battery.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:38
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The ME Super looks good actually, seems to be cheaper than the Canon even. I hadn't seen that one mentioned before when googling
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Apr 23, 2016 02:43
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I like the Nikon f3. They are the best.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:47
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BANME.sh posted:The OM1 is nice but takes obsolete mercury batteries and you'll be struggling with finicky zinc-air replacements or adapters. I've also owned two and the light meters were way off in both, with the correct battery. Yeah true, which is why I said all manual. Although I got a couple of the wein cell replacements on ebay fairly cheaply and they work well. Really everyone should just use a hand held light meter for a while until they realise they don't actually need a meter 90% of the time.
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Apr 23, 2016 03:35
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BANME.sh posted:The OM1 is nice but takes obsolete mercury batteries and you'll be struggling with finicky zinc-air replacements or adapters. I've also owned two and the light meters were way off in both, with the correct battery. I really do not get why this is a big deal. Most light meters cover ISO 25 to ISO 1600, using a 1.55v silver oxide (e.g. SR44, not LR44) in a 1.35v mercury battery camera will cause your 1.35v meter to read too high by like .9 EVs, so you just remove a stop of film speed from desired and then you can push your tri-x to 3200. Since nobody here is going to shoot film slower than ISO 80 in a 135 format anyway, this is not a really bad trade as far as I can tell - it may be an enhancement in some cases if you like to shoot at 3200 on older cameras.
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Apr 23, 2016 04:50
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Paperhouse posted:The ME Super looks good actually, seems to be cheaper than the Canon even. I hadn't seen that one mentioned before when googling I like my Fujica ST605. M42 lenses are cheap as poo poo. Meh, can't really go wrong.
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Apr 23, 2016 04:51
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windex posted:I really do not get why this is a big deal. Most light meters cover ISO 25 to ISO 1600, using a 1.55v silver oxide (e.g. SR44, not LR44) in a 1.35v mercury battery camera will cause your 1.35v meter to read too high by like .9 EVs, so you just remove a stop of film speed from desired and then you can push your tri-x to 3200. Everything I've read suggests that it's not just the rated voltage of the battery but the voltage over time. Mercury batteries were ridiculously good at holding the rated voltage through their entire lifespan, where as silver oxide will start out overexposing, transitioning to regular exposure, and then eventually underexposing by the end. Sounds like a lot more guesswork than a simple flat +/- reading. The 675 hearing aid batteries, and the wein-cell's are both more stable which is why they are often recommended. Also maybe I am just a sperg, but I like to be able to use my cameras as they were originally intended without having to worry about remembering to compensate for this or that. 
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Apr 23, 2016 05:30
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BANME.sh posted:Everything I've read suggests that it's not just the rated voltage of the battery but the voltage over time. Mercury batteries were ridiculously good at holding the rated voltage through their entire lifespan, where as silver oxide will start out overexposing, transitioning to regular exposure, and then eventually underexposing by the end. Sounds like a lot more guesswork than a simple flat +/- reading. The 675 hearing aid batteries, and the wein-cell's are both more stable which is why they are often recommended. No no, you are right, it's just that silver oxide / SR44's do not have any notable drop off until they are over 95% discharged, so just replace them once a year. LR44's are alkaline and they totally drop off - from as early as like 30% discharged. edit: Ouch, discharge curves indicate this is only true for high silver content silver oxide batteries, cheap ones start to fall off at 50%, which is better than immediately, so, 6 months? windex fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Apr 23, 2016 |
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Apr 23, 2016 05:40
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Don't buy an AE-1 because if you ever visit Australia or NYC you will have to spend like 6 months there.
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Apr 23, 2016 06:00
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Yeah I use a regular button battery in my OM1 and it's been fine
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Apr 23, 2016 06:36
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Get the ME Super.
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Apr 23, 2016 12:09
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Buy a Zenit-E. gently caress batteries forever.
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Apr 23, 2016 12:39
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The ME Super is the light and the way.
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Apr 23, 2016 18:12
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I got a canonet earlier this week. It's really fun!
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Apr 24, 2016 02:18
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Dropped my N8008s and it landed on the prism Annoying how heavy old film cameras are.
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Apr 24, 2016 03:15
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I did it - I bought an ME Super. For someone who knows nothing about photography, would you guys recommend starting with the auto function or just diving right into manual? And if I am using auto, is it literally just focus, point and shoot or are there still other considerations? I'm sorry if these are dumb questions.
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Apr 24, 2016 12:31
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Paperhouse posted:I did it - I bought an ME Super. For someone who knows nothing about photography, would you guys recommend starting with the auto function or just diving right into manual? And if I am using auto, is it literally just focus, point and shoot or are there still other considerations? I'm sorry if these are dumb questions. The ME Super is a semi-auto camera, which means that even at its most automatic you still need to set one thing (aperture, in this case) manually. When you set the little knob to Auto, what the camera does is pick a shutter speed automatically based on the aperture you've selected. If you're literally brand new to photography, it's worth tracking down a copy of Understanding Exposure at your local library, or watching some Lynda.com type stuff just so you get the bare minimum understanding of the "exposure triangle" (aperture, shutter speed, and ISO) and what effects changing each of those has on the final image. While you could set it to auto, set the aperture to whatever and focus and shoot, it probably won't turn out the way you want it to unless you know what changing the aperture does. Also, if your camera is out of batteries, it will only shoot at 125x mode, just something to make sure you check.
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Apr 24, 2016 12:52
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Walking around with my father's all manual Olympus was how I learned the relationship between shutter speed, aperture and film speed. You'll probably fumble a bit in the beginning, so you should probably start with some landscapes, other static objects or people who's not in a hurry. After a while you'll understand pretty quickly what kind of aperture (and thus depth of field) you're looking for in a scene and then you only have to change the shutter speed to get a correct exposure. After even more rolls of film, you should be able to measure the light pretty well with your eyes and experience*, so you might only have to change the shutter speed a stop or two. Also, overexposing film isn't a big problem, unlike with digital sensors, so when in doubt you should overexpose rather than underexpose. Edit: you could read up on the Sunny 16 rule. In many (most?) situations it's pretty easy to guess the correct exposure values. Xabi fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Apr 24, 2016 |
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Apr 24, 2016 13:31
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http://canonoutsideofauto.ca/ is also a good site for playing around with the exposure triangle and understanding what happens when you adjust one part of that.
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Apr 24, 2016 14:28
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:09 |
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Xabi posted:Walking around with my father's all manual Olympus was how I learned the relationship between shutter speed, aperture and film speed. You'll probably fumble a bit in the beginning, so you should probably start with some landscapes, other static objects or people who's not in a hurry. After a while you'll understand pretty quickly what kind of aperture (and thus depth of field) you're looking for in a scene and then you only have to change the shutter speed to get a correct exposure. After even more rolls of film, you should be able to measure the light pretty well with your eyes and experience*, so you might only have to change the shutter speed a stop or two. Also, overexposing film isn't a big problem, unlike with digital sensors, so when in doubt you should overexpose rather than underexpose. I'm just now starting 35mm shooting with an Argus C3 after running several rolls through cheap 120 cameras with basically zero options for snapshots (like a pair of Dianas and a Kodak Brownie No. 2 from the 1907-1910 production run). Having to go totally manual like that is a real good crash course in the basics of photography.
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Apr 24, 2016 17:37
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