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I'm stripping down some Cadians because I don't like the colors compared to the way I've painted the second batch I got. Is a 1:1 ratio of cleaner to water a safe mixture to dunk them in?
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Apr 23, 2016 00:25
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Brewsuke posted:I'm stripping down some Cadians because I don't like the colors compared to the way I've painted the second batch I got. Is a 1:1 ratio of cleaner to water a safe mixture to dunk them in? http://www.biostrip.co.uk/paint-stripping/biostrip-20-paint-stripper-5-litres.html
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Apr 23, 2016 00:26
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Brewsuke posted:I'm stripping down some Cadians because I don't like the colors compared to the way I've painted the second batch I got. Is a 1:1 ratio of cleaner to water a safe mixture to dunk them in? Why wouldn't you just go full strength?
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Apr 23, 2016 00:44
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berzerkmonkey posted:Why wouldn't you just go full strength? Because I am an overcautious baby.
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Apr 23, 2016 00:57
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Brewsuke posted:Because I am an overcautious baby. You're not going to hurt anything. Go full strength and revel in your macho.
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Apr 23, 2016 01:56
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Brewsuke posted:I'm stripping down some Cadians because I don't like the colors compared to the way I've painted the second batch I got. Is a 1:1 ratio of cleaner to water a safe mixture to dunk them in? Straight denatured alcohol.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:44
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Worth noting that some strippers, Dettol in particular, go really loving weird when you dilute them.
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Apr 23, 2016 10:30
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BULBASAUR posted:What do you folks recommend for a sandable gap filler? Liquid greenstuff is doing too little and greenstuff doesn't sand very well. Mix superglue with talcum powder. Excellent all-purpose gap filler. Sets in less than an hour.
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Apr 23, 2016 12:40
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berzerkmonkey posted:You're not going to hurt anything. Go full strength and revel in your macho. Miniatures Painting - Go full strength and revel in your macho
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Apr 23, 2016 14:54
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. When not dancing to the heaviest of beats, Technoviking fights to purge the universe of Xenos and Heretics. The first of at least three more officers that I'm working on.
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Apr 23, 2016 15:45
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I'm about to start painting my Judicator. I'll be using black as the primary color, with gold trim, and red as the secondary color. The problem is that I'm rubbish at painting black, especially black with a lot of flat panels - And this thing is almost nothing but flat panels. Does anyone have any tips for how I can avoid making the black look flat?
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Apr 23, 2016 23:56
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berzerkmonkey posted:I came home from work to find this: Hey, turns out I am part of the same SG listserve as you.  At least your porch is now finely shaded?
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Apr 24, 2016 02:20
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Sigh Never use a spray can without making absolutely sure you picked the right one I guess
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Apr 24, 2016 02:24
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Geisladisk posted:I'm about to start painting my Judicator. I'll be using black as the primary color, with gold trim, and red as the secondary color. Ive tried black with grey highlights and greys with black washes and specific area darkened glazes and I liked the second better.
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Apr 24, 2016 08:08
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Ashcans posted:Hey, turns out I am part of the same SG listserve as you. Well, that one particular stream is... I bought a can of mineral spirits yesterday, so hopefully that will de-shade the area.
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Apr 24, 2016 15:18
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PierreTheMime posted:Okay, what is your plan for a paint scheme and do you have any metallics, washes, or weathering effects to use? In all but that last photo it looks like the entire was painted with 2-3 colors, tops. You need to make the details pop using highlighting and different colors for different components. The venting mesh, for instance, could pretty easily be made a metallic silver and maybe dirty it for an exhaust effect. So I have a bit of an update. I redid the entire basecoat, added in some details painted like the vents and painted dirty tracks, and I chose a different wash entirely instead of the original and I am waiting for it to dry. After the wash dries I am gonna highlight it and paint a few more details. My new question is about the highlighting itself. I was thinking of using a dusty color to drybrush on my edge highlights to add some weathering. Should I do that? Or should I make a green/dust mix and drybrush that on the flat surfaces to make a sun fading effect? Or should I just make a lighter green and just paint on the edges for the highlights? Overall how does it look now?    Ok yea I'm completely at a loss with the highlighting. I can't get it neat or looking correctly if I try to drybrush the edges. Anybody have any guides or tips on how to make edges look weathered or just line highlighting in general for this type of thing? Phi230 fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 24, 2016 22:57
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lemonadesweetheart posted:Ive tried black with grey highlights and greys with black washes and specific area darkened glazes and I liked the second better. How does black with grey zenithal and black washes sound? I'm thinking of painting some miniatures in black and gold.
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Apr 25, 2016 01:19
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 Witch from Frostgrave I painted for an RPG character I'm playing.
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Apr 25, 2016 06:41
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Painted this     (Spirit walkers)  (Tribal long horns)   (Tribal hunters and tribal spears)  (Shaman, totem bearer and chieftain)  (chieften on chariot)  (Stampede)   (Gargoyles and beast pack)  (Brutox)
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Apr 25, 2016 08:37
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I need some advice on this guy: Click for yuuge I'm satisifed with the metal as is, other than needing some highlighting on the edges on all the armor panels, but i'm more concerned about the red. I hadn't learned some very important facts regarding layering and shading when i started this, So it's been sitting for around 7 months now in this state. Would a drybrush of red to catch all the surface detail be "enough" to brighten up the top carapace armor, or should i slog through and do actual highlighting on everything? I'm kinda liking the grungy unkempt look it's rocking now, so i'm leaning towards the drybrush and then just paint up all the detail bits after that.
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Apr 25, 2016 09:24
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Dunk it in denatured alcohol.
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Apr 25, 2016 11:43
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I am not a good painter but have reasonable experience of red with multiple blood Angels dreadnoughts (which are a bright red). II think you could certainly do a drybrush and potentially draw it together with a glaze to unite the different tones. The GW red glaze is great but possible a bit brighter than you might want . I would then highlight with orange but maybe you might want to use more of a light ruddy brown or pinky orange to edge highlight the most light struck areas - this might be better before the glaze actually. E: I am posting from my iPhone and have mighty hammy fists. Also you could try using a sponge for a bit more of a irregular, almost textured look. If you use it as you would a drybrush it gives a bit less of a brushed appearance on big surfaces. JackMack fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 13:24
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Big Willy Style posted:Painted this It says you took down all the images.
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Apr 25, 2016 14:59
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Big Willy Style posted:Painted this Your links are broken.
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Apr 25, 2016 21:32
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Okay goons! I'm about to airbrush. I'm going to make some World Eaters legion test miniatures. I've got new equipment: - A badger renegade krome. - Some airbrush cleaner - An airbrush cleaner pot. - A compressor. What should I know before I dive into this great endeavor? Can I airbrush inside next to an open window? How do I prevent painting my house and causing my wife to aggro on me?
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Apr 26, 2016 04:04
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Hey, I'm looking for some priming alternatives, and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for brush on primers or other methods?
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Apr 26, 2016 06:14
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DeadGame posted:Okay goons! I'm about to airbrush. I'm going to make some World Eaters legion test miniatures. I've got new equipment: You can do it inside near an open window, but I like to wear a mask. It's not critical when you do little tiny work, but for base coating I would wear one. I put up an old towel and then put paper towels ontop to absorb most of the spray. Other than that make sure to thin your paints more than usual unless they are pre-thinned. You'll want to experiment with different consistencies and PSI to see how everything behaves together. When you're done shoot some cleaner through your brush, take the needle out and wipe it off, put it back in, shoot some more cleaner, and then it's good for storage. Oh and have fun!
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Apr 26, 2016 06:33
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Frobbe posted:I need some advice on this guy: How about adding rust effects? You know, a couple of rust trails left behind by dripping water.
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Apr 26, 2016 07:05
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Imperial Fists Sicaran Venator incoming:     Got to try out lots of new stuff with this one. First time doing any real airbrush stuff beyond basecoating, and first time using weathering powders It was good fun 
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Apr 26, 2016 12:10
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Tanks Tanks Tanks    I got a bunch of stuff painted for April - The Independent Characters Hobby Challenge is pretty addictive 
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Apr 26, 2016 12:15
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Skarsnik posted:
Yeast posted:Tanks Tanks Tanks DeadGame posted:Okay goons! I'm about to airbrush. I'm going to make some World Eaters legion test miniatures. I've got new equipment:
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Apr 26, 2016 14:11
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DeadGame posted:Okay goons! I'm about to airbrush. I'm going to make some World Eaters legion test miniatures. I've got new equipment: Yeast posted:Tanks Tanks Tanks As I posted in the 40K thread, you should join up with the Oath Thread as well, there's a brand new one starting in about a week!
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Apr 26, 2016 14:13
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Hey guys, I have an idea in my head for how I want to paint my Eldar Corsair army, but I am not sure if the effect I want would be possible. I am thinking of basing them with the Secret Weapons field of screams bases and doing an autumn/harvest theme with them, but I want to try and make the models look like they are fighting under a moonlit night. Is there any way to paint a miniature in a way to make it look like it is night, rather than day, or would this end up not looking right?
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Apr 26, 2016 15:05
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Just use cold tones of the colors you want them to be based on? Shade with lots of blues and use hard edges for zenithal priming/preshading, that's the direction I'm thinking.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:25
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Skarsnik posted:Sicaran goodness Goddamn you did a good job on this tank. I wish I could 1. Paint a yellow that nice, and 2. Have the balls to weather it like you did.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:42
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Gravy Train Robber posted:Hey, I'm looking for some priming alternatives, and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for brush on primers or other methods? This one.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:49
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berzerkmonkey posted:
At this stage it's what's in that photo, and this one:  Kicked off in late January, hoping to have the entire army done by November.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:09
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SRM posted:Goddamn you did a good job on this tank. I wish I could 1. Paint a yellow that nice, and 2. Have the balls to weather it like you did. Thank you As far as the yellow goes it was mostly airbrush so not too hard to put down. Its Yriel over a white undercoat, then blended up to Phalanx yellow on the top. As I was planning on weathering it it's only had the most basic of edge highlighting done on it, all just side of brush stuff. Shading was with with thinned Seraphim Sepia I always feel I'm going a tad overboard with the weathering but usually just plow on regardless. Lots of the weathering is covering up airbrushing fuckups, I never seem to mask stuff well enough. Those wiggly lines on one side near the front was me resting it on a piece of kitchen paper that apparently had some paint on it 
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Apr 26, 2016 16:15
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Dungeon Saga Zombie trolls rebased and painted up on 40mm bases for KoW.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:20
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richyp posted:Dungeon Saga Zombie trolls rebased and painted up on 40mm bases for KoW. Nice. I think you could serve to either smooth the bottom of their feet down so that they're flush with the ground, or put something under their feet to hide the fact that they're not flush. Looks a bit off otherwise.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:54
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