|
Mystery! What is the button-like thing midway up the passenger headrest?
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2016 02:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 06:59 |
|
|
toplitzin posted:Mystery! I think it's a coat hanger.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2016 14:27
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:I think it's a coat hanger. The rest of the internet seems to agree/debate this as well, as it's in a very odd place to put a hangar, and won't let the garment hang right if you did use it as such. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Apr 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 00:30
|
|
|
I think there was a set of volvo specific accessories that would hang from it, like garbage bags and what not. Nobody ever bought or used them. The owner's manual just says "Coat hanger - use the coat hanger for clothes of normal weight" and there's a picture of the headrest with the button highlighted.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 01:00
|
|
|
I originally thought it had something to do with adjusting the headrest because there's no other apparent way to adjust them, but it's only on the passenger side so that was quickly ruled out. I've since concluded that the headrests can't be adjusted. Coat hanger was my second theory, but it is a pretty weird coat hanger.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 01:08
|
|
|
If it's a newer car with those distinct headrests, you can't change them. I read that Volvo don't want people to change their optimal head rest height / design for safety reasons... VVVV: Cool. Didn't know that it went back that far. Doesn't matter for me anyway since I'm too tall for pretty much every seat to be able to comfortably use the head rests anyway. Flying sucks. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Apr 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 07:06
|
|
|
Volvo headrests have been non-adjustable in all their cars since 1975. It's to hit your head on in a wreck, not rest your head on ever.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 07:14
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Volvo headrests have been non-adjustable in all their cars since 1975. It's to hit your head on in a wreck, not rest your head on ever. They are at the perfect height for me, excellent on long rear end drives because I can lay my head back and give my upper back a rest and still see the road/gauges perfectly.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 07:35
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Volvo headrests have been non-adjustable in all their cars since 1975. It's to hit your head on in a wreck, not rest your head on ever. I know that, but surely it would be better to hit the back of your head on the center of the headrest than to have it hit you in the nape of the neck, or the top of the head
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 16:17
|
|
|
 If there's anyone in the Bay Area who wants it, I'm giving away my dad's broken 1994 960. If it doesn't go by Saturday it's getting donated. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2016 20:58
|
|
|
Might as well crush it, no one wants broken whiteblock cars. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2016 14:45
|
|
|
someone may be picking it up! 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2016 20:05
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:someone may be picking it up! I'll claim it as a success for reverse psychology 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2016 16:54
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sysKNsw9YNM
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 03:52
|
|
|
I'm feeling enormous regret I didn't jump on the s80 V8 when I had a chance 
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 03:56
|
|
|
El Scotch posted:I'm feeling enormous regret I didn't jump on the s80 V8 when I had a chance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4Vh0eidjUg
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 04:00
|
|
|
That guy really wants to lose that foot doesn't he?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 06:11
|
|
|
Backstory: I got rid of my family's two extraneous Volvos today. My dad's 960 left this morning, on the truck of a guy who's going to remove the dashboard and other tan pieces and get them to his son in Texas, who's restoring his 960; apparently intact tan dashboards are impossible to find in Texas. After he does that, it's going to a guy who's interning at NASA-Ames and has access to some extreme fabrication equipment; he hasn't worked on cars before, but he's done his research and is a mechanical engineering student, and his aim is (with his buddy's help) to turn it into a LeMons car, whether that involves an engine rebuild, a T6 swap, or a V8. ...speaking of V8s... does a B8444S attach to an AW30-40? The 240 in the video is going to a gentleman in Sacramento who's fallen in love with bricks; it's going to be his project car (with his friend's help). I was pessimistic about the engine because when I got it running last time, it made a very nasty clanking noise that got worse with revs, but the source of that noise revealed itself when I revved it and he grabbed the disconnected power steering pump pulley, which was apparently a tiny bit loose and clanking loudly from the vibration.  Seat Safety Switch posted:That guy really wants to lose that foot doesn't he? with windows that wouldn't roll down, his other option was to burn to death instantly
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 06:22
|
|
|
I need advice. We have a 1998 Volvo V70R AWD w/automatic that was set up for Lemons racing, but we blew the head gasket twice in two races this year and are kinda ready to move on to a different car. What's the best option? 1) Try to fix the headgasket again, this time in a more controlled environment (last head gasket job was done 95% at the race track trying to get it back on the track and/or ready to drive home), we aren't volvo guys or anything and don't really know much about working on turbo engines generally 2) Is there a reliable Volvo or non-Volvo engine that would be good to swap into it? 3) Part it out, but it doesn't have any interior or trim beside the dash, and only some of the bodywork is in "daily driver" shape. Currently we are planning on #3 and scrapping whatever is left after we remove anything of value. Any thoughts? We are thinking it too impractical (I know nothing is too impractical for lemons racing, but we want to finish a race someday, and not spend tons and tons of money) to keep trying to race it.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 17:11
|
|
|
Chances are when you did the head gasket the first time it didn't seal well from either not cleaning the mating surfaces well or chronic overheating, either of which would cause high spots and a terrible seal. When you redo the gasket again have a machine shop deck the head to get a clean flat mating surface. You see this a lot in the Subaru community when crap dealers clean up a block with a whizz wheel and call the resulting wavy scratch orgy done. If your engine has torque to yield studs but probably even if it has just been overheated I would replace the head studs/bolts as well since most designs force them to stretch in order to provide good clamp and they are never quite the same when reused. It may also be prudent to see if your engine has other overheating issues which may be causing premature head gasket failures. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:22 on May 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 22:20
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Chances are when you did the head gasket the first time it didn't seal well from either not cleaning the mating surfaces well or chronic overheating, either of which would cause high spots and a terrible seal. Also, after you do that, go to a Pick-n-pull and grab the blower off something with a supercharged 3800.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 22:21
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure whiteblocks in general use torque-to-yield. So yeah replace those suckers.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 01:45
|
|
|
They're stretch bolts, not TTY, so they can be reused, but new ones are cheap enough that most people just go that route. It's a moot consideration, though, because the best thing to do is part it out and find something better suited for Lemons. If your goal is to finish a race and not go broke in the process a whiteblock Volvo is probably one of the worst cars you could choose to field.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 03:46
|
|
|
I dunno if I completely agree with that, but a (probably maintenance deferred), awd turbo variant is not a recipe for success. Especially one with HG issues.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 04:34
|
|
|
I guess you could do OK with a non-turbo, manual 850 or S70 - there's a whole lot less to go wrong once you take the turbo, the automatic transmission, and the AWD out of the equation, not to mention the 500lbs of weight you save in the process.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 16:51
|
|
|
My aunt's 850 while not a 240 seems fairly simple, engine bay isn't that complicated, seemed a lot simpler than my E34; looked easier to work on. It is however a NA non-AWD manual.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 17:04
|
|
|
Once you know the layout, and how to remove the things that are in the way but easily removed, they really aren't that bad to work on at all. There's barely anything you have to move the motor to get to or weirdness like that.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2016 03:16
|
|
|
Anything I should know about V50s before I buy one? A 2006 T5 AWD with the 6-speed manual and just a hair over 100K on the clock popped up for sale near me this week, and after test-driving it I really want it. I couldn't find any record of the timing belt being replaced, so that's probably the first thing I'll do if I pick it up, but I didn't notice anything else amiss during the test drive and after skimming the stickies on Swedespeed it doesn't seem like there's too much to be concerned about that I haven't already dealt with on my P80s.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2016 14:07
|
|
|
Yeah they seem to be pretty bulletproof. The biggest worry is the cooling system - there's no coolant level warning light (thanks Ford), so if you pop a hose or something and lose coolant, you blow the head gasket almost immediately. It will not show the car overheating on the gauge soon enough because the temp sensor ends up in air after the coolant runs out. There's a big hose with two cross joints molded in to it, my friend at the Volvo shop calls it the hexa-hose. It should be inspected and replaced preventatively if there are any signs of aging at all. If you can, get a coolant reservoir off a Volvo with a sensor in it and rig up a light. At least that's what I plan to do if I ever get one. My P80 and P2 cars with coolant warning lights have saved me multiple times from blown hoses, loose clamps and cracked reservoirs. And of course, belts and tensioners early and often. If the serp belts fail they often take out the timing belt on these engines.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 07:32
|
|
|
why would my '98 V70R go into reverse smoothly, back up a few feet, emit a resounding CLUNK from the drivetrain accompanied by a sharp jerk, and continue to back up smoothly like nothing happened, with no other symptoms
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 07:58
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Yeah they seem to be pretty bulletproof. The biggest worry is the cooling system - there's no coolant level warning light (thanks Ford), so if you pop a hose or something and lose coolant, you blow the head gasket almost immediately. It will not show the car overheating on the gauge soon enough because the temp sensor ends up in air after the coolant runs out. There's a big hose with two cross joints molded in to it, my friend at the Volvo shop calls it the hexa-hose. It should be inspected and replaced preventatively if there are any signs of aging at all. Good to know about the coolant light-I can't believe they omitted that but it seems like the coolant reservoir is a Ford part so maybe they couldn't engineer one in without driving the cost up too much. Speaking of the tank, the one in the car had a couple hairline cracks in it and I was planning to replace it, so maybe I'll flush the coolant and do that hose at the same time. I ended up buying it yesterday-I'm really excited. atomicthumbs posted:why would my '98 V70R go into reverse smoothly, back up a few feet, emit a resounding CLUNK from the drivetrain accompanied by a sharp jerk, and continue to back up smoothly like nothing happened, with no other symptoms Check the bushing where the viscous coupling attaches to the body-it's a fairly common failure. My 2000 R had the same problem. Does it clunk again when you start driving forward?
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 15:35
|
|
|
Volvo cooling systems have the same issues that BMWs do, but as you say often no coolant level sensor and the temp gauge is practically useless. Another failure point is the dual stage electric cooling fan, if so equipped. The first stage runs through a resistor. That resistor failed open on my 96 850, and what I thought was normal fan operation was actually the second stage that engages at wayyy too high of a temp for standstill traffic in summertime SC, with a dumb temp gauge that wasn't telling me what I needed to know. Pop goes the headgasket. If (ahem, when) I get another Volvo, I'm bypassing that resistor first thing. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 15:44
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:why would my '98 V70R go into reverse smoothly, back up a few feet, emit a resounding CLUNK from the drivetrain accompanied by a sharp jerk, and continue to back up smoothly like nothing happened, with no other symptoms Do you use the parking brake? When I got my R it was lovely at releasing, and ultimately the shoe bound up and the pad separated making a similar kind resulting noise/jerk. Just a random thought; don't know about your gen of r's but on the emergency brake shoes on my gen were known to degrade and fall apart like that.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 15:54
|
|
|
Blitter posted:Do you use the parking brake? When I got my R it was lovely at releasing, and ultimately the shoe bound up and the pad separated making a similar kind resulting noise/jerk. I was about to say the same thing. The symptoms described, I took it in and the emergency brake was in pieces...one of the components was wedged against the inner side of the disk which caused the binding/clunk. If you don't use the ebrake often or live in an area with a lot of salt/weather...the ebrake components tend to freeze up.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 16:33
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:I was about to say the same thing. The symptoms described, I took it in and the emergency brake was in pieces...one of the components was wedged against the inner side of the disk which caused the binding/clunk. If you don't use the ebrake often or live in an area with a lot of salt/weather...the ebrake components tend to freeze up. I had intended to do them, and had already had shoes and a hardware replacement kit onhand - IPD sells them for ~10bux, and the volvo dealership wanted almost that much per spring iirc. Ended up needing to snip one of the old ones out, due to a)things being wratched and b) gently caress those tiny springs. Drum brake spoon tool was too big for the job, making it kinda a pain. I should add that I also could have stood to replace the expanders (partially seized with rust) but cleaned them up and reused because lazy/impatient.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 17:30
|
|
|
I always use the ebrake, but my regular brakes only have around 25% left, so maybe I'll find out soon.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2016 22:40
|
|
|
zundfolge posted:I ended up buying it yesterday-I'm really excited. Awesome, V50 is on my short list of future cars if I can find a deal on one. My daughter also wants one for her first car. A friend of mine had one and he loved it except it shut off randomly on the highway twice, at around 80k miles. That was enough for his wife to want to trade it for a brand new Camry.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2016 06:44
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Awesome, V50 is on my short list of future cars if I can find a deal on one. My daughter also wants one for her first car. A friend of mine had one and he loved it except it shut off randomly on the highway twice, at around 80k miles. That was enough for his wife to want to trade it for a brand new Camry.  Got it home tonight and scanned it with VIDA - the only stored code was for the CD changer.  I really like this car. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 04:31 on May 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 02:56
|
|
|
Gorgeous! Now slam that poo poo. Also I'm sure you know but just in case - it's cross platform with the Ford Focus and Mazda3 of the same generation.... so you have about, oh, ONE MILLION SUSPENSION TUNING OPTIONS compared to the rest of us in Volvo exclusive hell. I hear the MS3 sway bars are the primo poo poo.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 04:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 06:59 |
|
|
 Yesterday I found this. I don't know for sure what happened, but my working hypothesis is that the gas powered weed whacker I'd used a few meters behind the car the day before threw an unfortunate stone and I was oblivious when it happened. Glass is not insured. The good news is that I live in Volvo land. The junkyards have any number of rear hatches in the right color. I ordered one for a hundred bucks. Even with shipping which isn't exactly cheap, it will (God willing) still come out being less than the deductible would have been had I been slightly better insured. Sensible car choice triumphs again I suppose, but it sure sucks that the glass broke in the first place. Interestingly enough I now have an amber idiot light and a message saying the rear hatch is open. I found a forum thread somewhere where it was claimed that the switch in the latch is wired through the glass defroster somehow. In the wreckage I found three connectors to the window, two thick ones plus a single thin, so it's entirely plausible that this is the case.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2016 11:28
|
|
