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SouthsideSaint posted:Its fine as long as it's sealed well. And if your really worried pour it into a clear milk jug first to check it for debris and such. I have done this multiple times with coolant with no Ill effects. Except my kids thinking there's green juice in the garage and daddy is strange to keep to jugs of green juice. Which I tried to explain coolant to them but a five and three year old can't pay attention that long.
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Apr 24, 2016 18:55
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The Door Frame posted:So if someone were to do something loving dumb like forget to lock their torque wrench and snap one of these bolt's in the 1.7L valve cover, how do you get the bolt out of the cover? I got the other end out of the head, but the bolt itself has this weird washer welded to it so I cannot remove it from the cover and I have no idea how to install a new one once I do. I can't find anything in my manual, and everything online only talks about removing the broken part, which isn't rocket surgery. Have you tried hitting it with a punch and knocking it through?? Also if your that dude from Chicago and need help holla at this goon and I may be able to deliver knowledge.
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Apr 24, 2016 22:01
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This might be a better place to ask than the Tool thread in DIY. It's time to buy myself a birthday gift and I'd like an air compressor. I'd use it mainly for tires, an impact wrench for lugnuts and also for filling tires, maybe someday for a nailgun. Still, it would be used foremost for automotive work. What kind of capacity would I need? I'd need something that could do all 8 lugs on an F250 tire and fill it to 80 PSI.
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Apr 24, 2016 22:31
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SouthsideSaint posted:Have you tried hitting it with a punch and knocking it through?? Also if your that dude from Chicago and need help holla at this goon and I may be able to deliver knowledge. I ended up hammering the bolt out after going through the Honda parts catalog and finding out that it's just a rubber grommet that only looks like it's attached by the metal grommet cover. Now I just need to replace my cam plug and clean my EGR valve (hopefully not have to replace my $10 EGR seal because I am running low on available cash) because that stupid plastic disc has been squirting oil all over my engine bay. I forgot to warm up my engine when checking the oil I put in, and my shakedown run after replacing all of the belts, water pump, and half the motor mounts, plus the high oil pressure ruined the seal on that plug. Plus, today my engine bay has been sealing when I engage the clutch, so I was terrified that oil got into the bellhousing and was destroying my clutch, but then I remembered that I had the A/C on for the first time since replacing the belt. After work I'll try it without the A/C on and hopefully just adjust the tension instead of taking apart my transmission. My engine may reek like burning oil for now, but I didn't destroy my valves or break anything expensive, so I'm counting it as a victory for now. However, if my engine still squeals with the A/C off, I will definitely ask for some Honda help. Even though manuals are so much more simple than automatics, they still intimidate me enough that I don't want to tackle the job alone
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Apr 24, 2016 23:15
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I just have to tighten my A/C/alternator belt. Hurray!
The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 08:43
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Recently I started hearing grinding noises under braking coming from the rear of my NB Miata. It's not constant but sounds something like once per rotation. Also doesn't seem to be there every time, and is more noticeable under gentle braking. The rear pads have been changed last year so that should be fine? Any ideas what this could be or what to check to diagnose? The fact that it's not constant rubbing is throwing me off a bit. I'll probably have the car up this week anyway for oil and tire change, so ideally I'd know what to do already.
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Apr 25, 2016 10:01
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mobby_6kl posted:Recently I started hearing grinding noises under braking coming from the rear of my NB Miata. It's not constant but sounds something like once per rotation. Also doesn't seem to be there every time, and is more noticeable under gentle braking. The rear pads have been changed last year so that should be fine? Don't shotgun parts at a car without at the very least doing rudimentary diagnosis. Pop the wheels off and have a look at your pads. If the wear is uneven you'll need to clean and regrease the slide pins (if the rear calipers even have them, I can't remember) or clean/rebuild the caliper. If your piston boots are in good shape all you really need to do is just take it apart and clean it. Also check that your pad clips are present and in place (again, if they have any, can't recall); missing clips can allow the pads to move where they ain't supposed to go and they can start grinding up against things.
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Apr 25, 2016 10:34
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Thanks, I'll check those things. You're of course right that it would be much easier to tell with the car up and/or wheel off, it's a bit of a pain in the rear end to do in the driveway so I try to avoid doing it unnecessarily.
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Apr 25, 2016 11:26
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I'm having a hard time finding the last part to get my supra safety'd. I can't find any site that has replacement rear upper ball joints. I can find front lower ones all over the place, but I can't find one and the rear upper left ball joint needs to be replaced. I checked a few sites (I'm hoping for a canadian site, but USA will work) but I still just keep finding the front lower. I'll keep searching in the mean time. edit: it looks like I have to replace the whole arm? I might as well just replace both rear upper control arms then right? or is that going to get expensive Hot Karl Marx fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 15:53
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I'm having a hard time finding the last part to get my supra safety'd. I can't find any site that has replacement rear upper ball joints. I can find front lower ones all over the place, but I can't find one and the rear upper left ball joint needs to be replaced. Bang your zipcode in here. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Ball+Joint+&+Components/C0317/C0106.oap?year=1990&make=Toyota&model=Supra&vi=1278525 There was a site I found last week which I found a bunch of poo poo on for a MK3 but of course I didn't bookmark it because I'm an idiot. If I find it again I'll let you know. And it's odd the upper rears have gone, it's usually lower fronts on these. And yes, the whole arm needs to be replaced. :/
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Apr 25, 2016 16:26
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88h88 posted:Bang your zipcode in here. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Ball+Joint+&+Components/C0317/C0106.oap?year=1990&make=Toyota&model=Supra&vi=1278525 That site is just showing fronts. And I'm canadian so no zipcode. The best I could see is buying used parts from ebay and it seems like most other people do that too so that might be my best bet? One of the front lowers needed replacing and they found parts for it pretty quick. Something like this would be correct right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1988-T...5tWHtnC&vxp=mtr
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Apr 25, 2016 16:36
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Indeed, that's the one.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:25
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88h88 posted:Indeed, that's the one. Perfect, thanks for the help
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Apr 25, 2016 17:36
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My dad has a 2003 Silverado1500 pickup. Recently he had his passenger door handle break clean off, so I offered to fix it since It's probably not hard at all to replace. When he gave me the car to work on he also mentioned that he has another problem he'd like me to fix if I can. He claims that this was a recent thing and it used to work before. The AC/Heater mode (selecting vents) doesn't work right. All the modes but defrost are wrong. Here's what it does: Setting : What I get Defrost : Defrost Defrost + Foot : Defrost Foot : Defrost Front + Foot : Defrost + Foot Front : Front + Foot I've done some research and it sounds to me like it's the as mode actuator (or the mode motor) is the problem, but I'm not entirely sure. I don't really know what is involved with the system and I don't want to just throw parts at it, but that seems to be the logical failure. Does anyone have any insight or ways to test further or things to check before I replace that part and hope? Thanks!
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Apr 25, 2016 18:24
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At what point do I care about some scrapes on the bottom of the oil pan that are rusting? Picked up a used 2009 VW GTI and saw some fingernail-width scratches from the PO doing something special in the bottom of the pan while doing the first oil change. Was thinking of just sanding the rust and under body coating off that section before recoating it but wanted feedback from the hivemind first.
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Apr 25, 2016 18:35
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PabloBOOM posted:At what point do I care about some scrapes on the bottom of the oil pan that are rusting? Picked up a used 2009 VW GTI and saw some fingernail-width scratches from the PO doing something special in the bottom of the pan while doing the first oil change. Was thinking of just sanding the rust and under body coating off that section before recoating it but wanted feedback from the hivemind first. I thought those pans were made from aluminum, so I don't know where the rust came from unless something scraped against it and left it there.
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Apr 25, 2016 18:43
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mrbass21 posted:I've done some research and it sounds to me like it's the as mode actuator (or the mode motor) is the problem, but I'm not entirely sure. I don't really know what is involved with the system and I don't want to just throw parts at it, but that seems to be the logical failure. That sounds like a mode door problem to me, but without tearing it apart you probably aren't going to be able to tell if it's an actuator problem or a problem with the door itself. Given that most of the results on google point towards actuators, that might be a safe bet. The doors themselves don't usually fail unless you've got something like the poorly designed Jeep WJ HVAC where the doors get ripped off their hinges. PabloBOOM posted:At what point do I care about some scrapes on the bottom of the oil pan that are rusting? Picked up a used 2009 VW GTI and saw some fingernail-width scratches from the PO doing something special in the bottom of the pan while doing the first oil change. Was thinking of just sanding the rust and under body coating off that section before recoating it but wanted feedback from the hivemind first. Where I live none of that poo poo would ever rust enough to be an issue, but if I was worried I'd probably just rattlecan it with whatever is available.
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Apr 25, 2016 18:45
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I'm driving a 2002 VW Passat (V6), and today the turn signal started acting funny. When I turn it on, it sometimes works fine, but it regularly cycles two or three times and then shuts off, requiring me to return the signaler to the neutral position and then back on again before I actually turn/change lanes. I checked the outside of the car, and the signal is definitely turning off on its own (so it's not just an issue with the dashboard). It's happening more frequently with the left signal than the right, and when it works the signal speed sometimes randomly fluctuates. I'm debating whether I should just change all of the signal bulbs out in case they're causing a short (I haven't needed to replace them for the entire life of the car so far, so I can see them going bad) OR if I should bite the bullet on a $100+ diagnostic to see if the problem is with the signal itself. Trying to avoid multiple trips to the shop and/or blowing too much money here since things are a bit tight. edit: vvvv Brilliant, thank you! Grey Fox fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 19:54
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It's probably the relay.
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Apr 25, 2016 19:56
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scuz posted:I thought those pans were made from aluminum, so I don't know where the rust came from unless something scraped against it and left it there. Huh, didn't know that. I just shimmied under the car to drain the oil and didn't take a real close work. I'll take a work light down and take a 2nd look. IOwnCalculus posted:
Probably what will end up happening since I'm in the Southeast, so pretty removed from the rust belt. I had a 3rd hand corolla with a mystery dent that was bright green for the same reason. Thanks to you both. Just trying to prepare this car for the next 100k so I wanted to get feedback.
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Apr 25, 2016 23:11
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2002 toyota camry The driver's seatbelt on my wife's camry stopped retracting today. I popped off the plastic trim that hides the seatbelt mechanism to make sure the belt wasn't hung up in there, it wasn't. I unbolted the mechanism, and removed a 2 pin electrical connector from it so i could get a better look at it to see if there was anything i could gently caress with. Either side of the mechanism has a plastic housing with covers that say 'do not remove.' One side looks like where the spring lives, and i'm guessing taking that housing off would allow that spring to escape. The other side mentions an explosive, and i'm guessing taking that cover off would allow the explosion to escape? Either way i'm not real excited about the prospect of removing the covers. It seems like, with the electrical connector removed, i can wind the belt up but it won't release. When i reattach the connector the belt will release but not retract. Is there anything i might be able to do, short of replacing the whole assembly, that might entice that poo poo to start working again?  not my picture, but that's what it looks like.
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Apr 25, 2016 23:37
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Yo I backed into some girls car in the parking lot for my apartment. I saw there was a small scratch on her bumper so I'm like I donno if I made that or not but I'll just leave my info anyways, who cares. So we she hits me up and we file an accident report and poo poo, and we agree that the damage is probably small enough that theres no need to do anything with insurance and she'll just get estimates on the damage which I expected to pay myself. Anyway she hands me estimates from two local dealerships and they are for SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS. FOR A SCRATCH ON THE BUMPER. What the gently caress? What can I do about this bullshit?
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Apr 25, 2016 23:52
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It's probably about right. Hour or so repair but you have to take off the bumper cover, refinish it, reprint it, reinstall it. A non dealer shop may be a little less but probably not too much different. You can report it to your insurance but it'll be at fault and probably raise your premiums more in the long run.
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Apr 26, 2016 00:00
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Bovril Delight posted:It's probably about right. Hour or so repair but you have to take off the bumper cover, refinish it, reprint it, reinstall it. A non dealer shop may be a little less but probably not too much different. The labor estimates on this one invoice are for like 12 hours of work, so this is definitely bullshit then?
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Apr 26, 2016 00:08
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Her car is a 2008 hyundai elantra that poo poo is only worth like 6k used. No way does a scratch on her bumper come 1/10 of the way to totaling her car thats absurd!!
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Apr 26, 2016 00:22
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Dog Jones posted:The labor estimates on this one invoice are for like 12 hours of work, so this is definitely bullshit then? Without seeing the pics it's hard to say. Post the estimate.
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Apr 26, 2016 00:22
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Dog Jones posted:Her car is a 2008 hyundai elantra that poo poo is only worth like 6k used. No way does a scratch on her bumper come 1/10 of the way to totaling her car thats absurd!! Paint and body work costs about the same regardless of the value of the car, unless you're getting into exotic poo poo at the high end. The age probably makes it more difficult to paint match, whereas a brand new car they'd be able to just go with the factory 'off the shelf' color without worrying about eight years of UV exposure.
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Apr 26, 2016 00:26
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Jeff Gerber posted:2002 toyota camry No, replace the belt. Or gently caress with it at your peril I guess your call.
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Apr 26, 2016 02:03
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Slavvy posted:No, replace the belt. Is there any chance it could contain both an explosion and spiders, so when I trip the explosive it blasts flaming spiders at me? This is important.
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Apr 26, 2016 02:14
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Jeff Gerber posted:Is there any chance it could contain both an explosion and spiders, so when I trip the explosive it blasts flaming spiders at me? Requesting video.
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Apr 26, 2016 03:53
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Sorry this only happens for garbage dick.
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Apr 26, 2016 04:01
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Hi I just bought a truck what have I done. Is there a chat thread? I see references to a chat thread, but not an actual chat thread. I dunno, I don't really have questions other than what am I in for I guess. Is there a thread about trucks or about Ford trucks? I just bought a 2006 Ford Ranger 4x4 and I've never owned a truck before. It's red and pretty and has a canopy and it moves forward when I press on the gas pedal. So yea, any threads here I ought to bookmark?
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Apr 26, 2016 04:15
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Dog Jones posted:Her car is a 2008 hyundai elantra that poo poo is only worth like 6k used. No way does a scratch on her bumper come 1/10 of the way to totaling her car thats absurd!! No, that's pretty much right. You might be able to ask her to take it to an independent body shop (that's what the dealers will do with it anyway) to save a little, but ultimately if the scratch is deep enough, the only answer is to remove the bumper, strip the paint, fill in the damage, sand it down until smooth, then repaint the bumper. Followed by reinstalling it. 12 hours of labor may sound excessive, but they'll probably have 2 or 3 people working on it, not one. You're lucky they're not trying to blend the paint on the rest of the front clip, you'd be looking at repainting the front of her car at that point. Also be glad she's not trying to get you to cover a rental car, since her car will be in the shop for a day or two. I had someone clip me last year, which basically scratched the poo poo out of my front bumper, and the damage (on my 10 year old Saturn, that poo poo is only worth like 3k used, c'mon man) came out to about $500. Plus a rental car for a couple of days while the body shop had it, since I need a car for work. Either hold up your end of the deal, or let your insurance handle it. The latter will be much more expensive in the long run, but you won't have to fork out anything right now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 05:06
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I ran across this trim kit on the internet for a cubby hole that says it's for my car but the cubby itself doesn't show up on any of the trim lines I've seen. I have a Toyota Highlander 2016 which is basically the same as the 2015 and 2014 year models. The trim kit is from Korea so maybe the cubby is from a foreign trim line? This is what the trim fits on:  This is how my Highlander looks:  My question is this, does this part actually exist on any current Highlanders and if so, can it be ordered/installed on my Highlander? I'm going to be installing a dash cam in a few weeks and will be getting into the trim anyway (running a magic pro box with my cam and hooking into the fuse panel), plus my trim level only uses 2 out of the eight button spots. That's 6 unused spots, plus the top row appears to be a separate molding from the bottom row. Considering the only storage on that side is too low to reach for safely while driving, it would be super convenient to have a little cubby on that unused real estate. I know this is a shot in the dark but I'd appreciate it if anyone had any information on this.
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Apr 26, 2016 06:06
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inkblottime posted:The trim kit is from Korea so maybe the cubby is from a foreign trim line? That's my guess. I can't tell what any of those buttons are for, though. The one on the right might be dickbutt.
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Apr 26, 2016 06:13
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inkblottime posted:I ran across this trim kit on the internet for a cubby hole that says it's for my car but the cubby itself doesn't show up on any of the trim lines I've seen. I have a Toyota Highlander 2016 which is basically the same as the 2015 and 2014 year models. The trim kit is from Korea so maybe the cubby is from a foreign trim line? Toyota will projectile-vomit directly into your mouth if you attempt to order that part without giving them a part number, so unless you can find the appropriate part number for that piece of trim (it will definitely come seperately), you're out of luck. You'll probably be able to relocate those buttons to the empty slots on the lower trim but appearances are often deceiving and the wiring harness routing may not let you do this easily. My advice would be to go here or here, spam every possible configuration of highlander you can until you find one with the right setup. My guess would be that the poverty pack models are more likely to come with that cubby because they have less features and therefore less buttons. Once you have the part number it's just a matter of brow-beating your local dealer or finding one online somewhere.
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Apr 26, 2016 06:25
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toe knee hand posted:Hi I just bought a truck what have I done. The chat thread is currently titled "April Chat Thread: Interesting and Thought Provoking Discussion" and is found here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3770445 There was a cheap trucks thread, but I haven't seen it in awhile.
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Apr 26, 2016 06:27
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Bovril Delight posted:Without seeing the pics it's hard to say. Post the estimate.  some texas redneck posted:No, that's pretty much right. You might be able to ask her to take it to an independent body shop (that's what the dealers will do with it anyway) to save a little, but ultimately if the scratch is deep enough, the only answer is to remove the bumper, strip the paint, fill in the damage, sand it down until smooth, then repaint the bumper. Followed by reinstalling it. 12 hours of labor may sound excessive, but they'll probably have 2 or 3 people working on it, not one. I didn't scratch the poo poo out of gently caress though. There was one scratch the size of my index finger, that may have been there from before for all I know. I thought I was being neighborly by leaving my information. I don't know what this fog lamps bullshit is, no way did I gently caress with her fog lamps at all. Hazardous waste disposal fee? Why the gently caress am I paying them to throw a bunch of poo poo out. Anything I pay for better go on that stupid loving bumper as far as I'm concerned. The cop even said that it should buff out which I presume would be cheaper than this poo poo? I swear though its hit and runs from here on out.
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Apr 26, 2016 06:33
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mrbass21 posted:My dad has a 2003 Silverado1500 pickup. Try the reset procedure. Failure defaults to defrost only I think. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/118137-blend-door-actuator-replacement/?p=1050150
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Apr 26, 2016 06:48
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Dog Jones posted:I didn't scratch the poo poo out of gently caress though. There was one scratch the size of my index finger, that may have been there from before for all I know. I thought I was being neighborly by leaving my information. I don't know what this fog lamps bullshit is, no way did I gently caress with her fog lamps at all. Hazardous waste disposal fee? Why the gently caress am I paying them to throw a bunch of poo poo out. Anything I pay for better go on that stupid loving bumper as far as I'm concerned. The cop even said that it should buff out which I presume would be cheaper than this poo poo? I swear though its hit and runs from here on out. Why did you even bother asking if you're just going to flip your poo poo at everyone who doesn't tell you what you wanted to hear?
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Apr 26, 2016 06:57
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