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Looks like my Sharp Practice force is go
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Apr 25, 2016 09:04
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| # ? May 11, 2024 14:15 |
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Cool! No sooner than we decided to get SP for Napoleonics, one of our clubmates decided that he also needs to start a project for using SP for WotR for some reason.
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Apr 25, 2016 09:10
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lilljonas posted:Cool! Oooh. I'd love to hear how that goes. It seems like a good set of rules if you want to recreate a Chevauchée from the Hundred Years War too.
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Apr 25, 2016 12:13
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Nice! I look forward to reading your future AWI AARs!
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Apr 25, 2016 12:57
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spectralent posted:Sorry to double post: Are there any photos of the vehicles thus painted, even ones in black and white? Trying to get a feel for the pattern. Go wild: http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/2014/01/soviet-camouflage.html Click the camouflage tank for more painting/marking photos and docs.
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Apr 25, 2016 13:49
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Oooh! Thanks again. It's interest to me because a few of those wavy-line patterns look pretty german. I'm also getting a feel that the instructions gave a very high degree of permission for whoever was running the operation to pick the exact kind of blend they wanted.
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Apr 25, 2016 14:01
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A solid afternoons work.  Now awaiting Colonial AF to tell me I chose the wrong hats for the Light Infantry 
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Apr 25, 2016 15:01
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Those are the lights in the front? If so, they're the correct hat.
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Apr 25, 2016 15:32
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Colonial Air Force posted:Those are the lights in the front? Yay!  Going to need another box as 4 line groups and 2-3 light will be about right to cover most eventualities. Next on to the militia. Actually another question. The army lists have Continentals, State Line and Rebel Militia. What are State Line? Can I use my militia minis to represent them or are they uniformed troops?
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Apr 25, 2016 16:05
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muggins posted:This is really flippin' cool He's making a 20x6 table for 3mm  .Had my first black powder game with multiple commanders on one side yesterday. Essentially a re-fight of last weeks game, the Union were once again tasked with taking a defended Confederate village. The rebels split command between an infantry commander and a cavalry commander, with dismounted cavalry holding a forward defensive position and two mounted regiments coming in as reinforcements on turn 3. It was a real skin of the teeth affair for both sides-- there were maybe 3 really good opportunities for the Union to seize the town that got fought off, and my friends all had a good time. That part especially was nice because one of them had played previously and didn't really like the order system, but this time around, with more concrete objectives to fight over, it was a good time. Pics:      The aftermath: 
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Apr 25, 2016 16:10
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Serotonin posted:Yay! State Line represents high quality militia units, usually ex-continentals.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:10
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Panzeh posted:State Line represents high quality militia units, usually ex-continentals. Cool, I can use my militia then. Thanks. Serotonin fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 17:13
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Well, no. State Line are uniformed state-raised troops. Militia were raised by towns, generally, and had to bring their own gear. So State Line are closer to appearance to Continental Line soldiers, but with unique colors, and not as well trained (but for early war that doesn't matter, it'd be pre-Steuben).
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Apr 25, 2016 17:30
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Ah ok. In that case I will field militia instead of State Line. Points cost is identical
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Apr 25, 2016 17:35
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Colonial Air Force posted:Well, no. Ive heard 'state militia' used to describe these troops.
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Apr 25, 2016 19:19
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Panzeh posted:Ive heard 'state militia' used to describe these troops. If they're State Line Troops, specifically, then they're uniformed, outfitted by the State (or Colony, if you're Tory scum). Stats-wise, they're probably not much better than militia, but for modeling, they should be in uniform. But they were also called militia, because nothing can be clear in history. I think for a tabletop game, if you're already putting Continental Line troops in full uniform, though, you have to go with State Militia uniforms, too. And much of that also depends on when and where. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Continental_Army_units
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Apr 25, 2016 19:35
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Yeah the stats are pretty similar between militia and State Line in game. The State Line are a bit better manoeuvring in formation and the militia have more men per unit but the points costs are equal. What models would you use for State Line? Could you go a bit mad and use Seven Years War models of your choice?
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Apr 25, 2016 19:39
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No, I'm not aware of anyone who wore F&I uniforms. Mostly you'd just use regular Continental uniforms. http://www.srcalifornia.com/uniforms/p20.htm They'd just be in different colors. Sometimes. E: Here's a nice thing: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskHistorians/comments/39t5dm/during_the_american_revolution_how_did/ 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 19:46
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Cheers. In going to stick with a mix of Continental units and Militia because I like the contrast with the British Regulars in terms of gameplay.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:01
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It's what I recommend. Even I, spergy as I am about uniforms and equipment of the era, model all of my line troops in proper uniforms, because it looks better on the table.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:04
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Just have to chose what facings. I'm doing the Brits as the 28th Foot as they are my local regiment and were involved in the AWI.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:07
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Depending on your Grog levels, can always Imagi-Nation it up as well, doing this for Maurice, so I can use uniforms from a few ranges and times (AWI, SYW, even early Napoleonic) and paint them in schemes I enjoy, without having to feel weird that the facings are off, or the unit would be wearing a different cap/helmet depending on the year they were portraying. I have the best (worst?) of both worlds though, as I am building french for SP2 and have too many line built, not not enough voltigeurs, and well I could just use the extra line....and it feels wrong.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:31
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Mr.Booger posted:Depending on your Grog levels, can always Imagi-Nation it up as well, doing this for Maurice, so I can use uniforms from a few ranges and times (AWI, SYW, even early Napoleonic) and paint them in schemes I enjoy, without having to feel weird that the facings are off, or the unit would be wearing a different cap/helmet depending on the year they were portraying. High Five French SP2 bro! I started with two boxes, line infantry and dragoons, and I'lll start building them as soon as I get two Viking warbands finished. How are you basing yours?
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Apr 25, 2016 21:38
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Serotonin posted:Just have to chose what facings. I'm doing the Brits as the 28th Foot as they are my local regiment and were involved in the AWI. http://www.fifedrum.org/crfd/BD_1.htm
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Apr 25, 2016 21:43
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Yes, YES! Now Serotonin will have to painstakingly paint drum emblems like that snake on a shield.... The 28th, by the way, fought in the southern colonies, looks like mostly the Carolinas, so that should help you pick colors/facings.
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Apr 25, 2016 23:35
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Nah I've made a musician out of my box set but I made him a Fifer. Seems better for a skirmish force.
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Apr 26, 2016 07:25
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So Sharp Practice in 15mm. Would I get away with just scaling down, or would I be best double basing my soldiers? Basing size is a little smaller, 20mm compared to 25mm or so. But if everyone is the same I doubt it will make any difference. All my historical terrain is 6-15mm, so I don't want to have to build more. Well, I don't want to have to store more really. I'm going to have a go at playing with my 6mm troops on 40mm bases, but I think I'll come a cropper when moving to skirmish formation. My other mad idea is to base 8 6mm men on 20/25mm bases and then use them as individual soldiers.
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Apr 26, 2016 08:35
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Yo! liljonas, I need your address for KR Multicase to send you some cool stuff from the Oath Thread  drop me an email at krushgroove169@gmail.com(also a not-so-subtle advert for the Oath Thread, where you get your stuff painted and can win awesome stuff! New thread is starting on the 1st of May!)
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Apr 26, 2016 10:44
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krushgroove posted:Yo! liljonas, I need your address for KR Multicase to send you some cool stuff from the Oath Thread Whaaaaaat!? Message sent.
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Apr 26, 2016 10:48
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New thread? Pls advertise it here once you start it so I won't miss it.
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Apr 26, 2016 10:52
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JcDent posted:New thread? Pls advertise it here once you start it so I won't miss it. I didn't participate that much the last couple of years, so I'll try to get some sweet historical minis going in the new thread as well.
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Apr 26, 2016 10:53
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Yeah even as the thread organizer I barely get anything painted for it! So I'm going to prime all my historical stuff, plus Zombicide figures because they're quick to do once they're primed (5 in 30 minutes, max) and just knock out the easy to paint models while I watch TV. But I'll post something in this thread and all the others I can find!
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Apr 26, 2016 10:59
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Team Yankee questions: How is it for a guy who doesn't care about exact TO&E and the exact shade that an Abrams would have been painted if it were from such and such unit at such and such time and just wants a fun pick-up-and-play Red Dawn: The little toy soldier-type game with just enough depth and verisimilitude to feel like I'm doing Real World War Three Stuff? Is there any reason I can't get the book and play it with cheaper third party 15mm Cold War era poo poo, like there's those little cards that come with it, are those stats replicated in the rulebook? About what sort of models and how many would I be looking at for the initial outlay to have a decent 2-player force? A company of infantry, a half dozen APCS, a handful of tanks, a couple gunships and close air support fixed-wing per side? What are the "recommended" play area dimensions for a typical game?
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Apr 26, 2016 11:07
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Otisburg posted:Team Yankee questions: 1. It's as realistic as base Flames. Well, less, "company" basically doesn't have meaningful organisation for soviets. There is realistic stuff like BMP dismounts numbering 7 minis. 2. Yup, they're in the book. 3. My 50 points Soviets at 6mm have about 60 manz, 11 BMPs, 5 T-72s, 3 gvozdikas and 2 Shilkas. American numbers would be smaller by a third, at least.
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Apr 26, 2016 12:48
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Serotonin posted:Nah I've made a musician out of my box set but I made him a Fifer. Seems better for a skirmish force. It's incorrect, though. You won't hear a fifer in a firefight, and the signals all rely on drums more than fife. Fifes are for marching more than anything, which means they'd be better for a larger force, not a small, skirmish force.
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Apr 26, 2016 13:09
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Otisburg posted:Team Yankee questions: If you find cheap 15mm, please tell me where you got it from. As for force, they've got a 100 point list in the book, though I don't know if I'd recommend it. They show four A-10s which seems a bit excessive for a small force. Also, buying that force from Miniature market, even with the discount and free shipping, you're looking at $300, which is crazy (1/3rd of the cost is those four A-10s.) I did the math for a 6mm GHQ force, and you're looking at just over $100, with almost 1/2 ($48) being the A10s. I know far more people with GHQ than 15mm cold war, so I'll probably go 6mm. I believe 4x6 is the recommended table size, though I heard things tend to bunch up. Larger is probably better, if you can pull it off. I'm hoping someone scans the cards, or Battlefront eventually puts them online (though I doubt that will happen.) I'm likely going to make a reference chart for the units once I get some time.
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Apr 26, 2016 13:19
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If 6mm is cheaper, I'll go that route. I figure model railroad scenery in a compatible scale might be a good call. I will totally take 4 A-10s. They should just let you take all A-10's and
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Apr 26, 2016 13:32
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Otisburg posted:If 6mm is cheaper, I'll go that route. I figure model railroad scenery in a compatible scale might be a good call. I'm not saying you shouldn't take 4 A-10s, just that it seemed excessive for the force size, but I could be totally wrong. Not having read through the rules completely, I don't know if you'd be disallowed from taking an entire A-10 force, but I imagine it would pretty difficult to claim objectives... But A-10s are awesome, so you should totally do it anyway.
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Apr 26, 2016 14:00
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Colonial Air Force posted:It's incorrect, though. You won't hear a fifer in a firefight, and the signals all rely on drums more than fife. Fifes are for marching more than anything, which means they'd be better for a larger force, not a small, skirmish force. Good thing I've got a spare musician body then!
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Apr 26, 2016 14:11
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Otisburg posted:Team Yankee questions: 1. It's pretty much Red Dawn The Game yeah; very explicitly an AU designed for getting on with WW3 instead of a realistic scenario. 2. Full lists are in the book. In the future it looks like we're getting decks of cards instead of actual books, which is, uh, but at least they seem to be independent things to buy. 3. Assuming you want a 50 point force, the starter boxes should do fine for both; you get 5 abrams and 2 cobras, which is your HQ and two platoons and supporting choppers, and knocks up something like 47 points. The soviet list is good for 49 points; two 4 tank platoons, a command tank, and two hinds. This is a half-scale game; the game is "meant" to be played at 100 points a side. One thing I would note is that the abrams company is definitely the most fragile company; it's expensive, has small platoons, and mediocre morale, which make it likely to break quickly if it starts taking casualties, and a loss is going to be 30-50% of a list. It's easily the most fragile list in the game so far. In a small game that shouldn't be too much of an issue, but in bigger games, where larger air platoons can make a show, multiple big tank platoons can threaten flanks, and BMPs are able to sneak around the sides, it's pretty unforgiving. US Mech has far more resilience and 3-4 abrams work great as a supporting tank platoon to that. berzerkmonkey posted:I'm not saying you shouldn't take 4 A-10s, just that it seemed excessive for the force size, but I could be totally wrong. Not having read through the rules completely, I don't know if you'd be disallowed from taking an entire A-10 force, but I imagine it would pretty difficult to claim objectives... 100 points is standard, so 4 A-10s isn't unusual for mech inf. For the abrams companies, not so much, since they rarely have the points to spare on an expensive antitank platoon that doesn't count for formation morale.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:27
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