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Get a quote at a detailer but no guarantee they'll fix it either and just piss the person off.
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Apr 26, 2016 07:34
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Slavvy posted:Toyota will projectile-vomit directly into your mouth if you attempt to order that part without giving them a part number, so unless you can find the appropriate part number for that piece of trim (it will definitely come seperately), you're out of luck. You'll probably be able to relocate those buttons to the empty slots on the lower trim but appearances are often deceiving and the wiring harness routing may not let you do this easily. Found it. Thanks!
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Apr 26, 2016 07:36
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Dog Jones posted:I didn't scratch the poo poo out of gently caress though. There was one scratch the size of my index finger, that may have been there from before for all I know. I thought I was being neighborly by leaving my information. I don't know what this fog lamps bullshit is, no way did I gently caress with her fog lamps at all. Hazardous waste disposal fee? Why the gently caress am I paying them to throw a bunch of poo poo out. Anything I pay for better go on that stupid loving bumper as far as I'm concerned. The cop even said that it should buff out which I presume would be cheaper than this poo poo? I swear though its hit and runs from here on out. The fog lights are generally attached to the bumper, so they have to be removed when the bumper comes off. They have to dispose of any unused paint, they also have to dispose of the chemicals they used to strip the bumper of the paint already on it. Look at your invoice next time you get an oil change or new tires, you'll find some form of disposal fee. It's generally federally mandated; if it's not, the state is involved. There are hundreds of thousands of pages written in regards to disposing of a single chip of paint. Beyond that, I think I was the nicest person in here about it. Own up to your fuckup, or let your insurance fix it. Stop trying to say "BLUH BLUH BLUH IT'S A loving 8 YEAR OLD HYUNDAI WHY SHOULD I PAY TO FIX THAT PIECE OF poo poo?!". If you didn't provide your insurance info at the time, in many states you're now guilty of hit and run, and in some states that carries a mandatory jail term. That estimate is pretty much identical to the invoice for repairing my car when someone decided lane markers didn't apply to him (and also decided the laws of physics didn't apply to bumpers). That was with a repairable front bumper, and they didn't blend the paint, so now my front bumper doesn't match the rest of the car. You're responsible for the damage you caused. Even if there was a scratch there before, you made that scratch worse, so you're now liable for the entire repair. The only way it could have "buffed out" was if the clear coat was not damaged at all. Hint: it was damaged. Take it to small claims court or let your insurance handle it. Insurance will be the easiest option, and to be honest, unless you get her to sign something absolving you of all future issues with the repair, will be the smart option. Your rates will go up for 3-7 years depending on the laws in your state. Deal with it. I did pretty close to the same amount of damage to someone else's car years ago, and my rates honestly didn't go up much (even though they threw about $2000 worth of ER visit bills into the mix, claiming whiplash over a ~5 mph tap - damage to their car was valued at $500 according to my insurance). I let insurance handle it since they threw medical bills into the mix, and that was the last I heard of it. edit: the absolute tiniest scratch on a car is going to run $500+ to fix unless it's just paint transfer from another car. Labor is expensive, and you're getting off light since she's not demanding a rental car or asking them (as she SHOULD) to blend it into the rest of the car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 08:21
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Depending on the scratch I would've told her I'd get some compound and get it out myself. And this is the fun of dealers and body shops, they're out to make money and will try to do so by bending you over, there are no favours... Take a photo, call up a local detailer and you may be surprised as to what they can do.
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Apr 26, 2016 09:02
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i had a small dent (maybe the diameter of a toonie) on my body with some plastic trim all scuff'd up just above my front driver side tire on my 2014 Sierra and it ended up costing me almost $700 and the person who did it never left a note or anything
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Apr 26, 2016 13:00
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Painting, and body work in general, is obnoxiously expensive. It was $350 less than the ~$5k my car was worth to replace the front panels, windshield, and one door on my car after a less than pleasant meeting with a buck on the interstate. Thankfully the insurance covered the cost (weird Illinois laws made it cheaper to put $4,650 into a decade old econobox than to just write it off and give me the market value of the car), but that was still a shocking amount of money for almost entirely superficial damage
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Apr 26, 2016 13:53
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How do they charge for supplies by the hour? And I can only wonder what the "miscellaneous" is.
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Apr 26, 2016 14:49
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Mister Kingdom posted:How do they charge for supplies by the hour? And I can only wonder what the "miscellaneous" is. The longer a job, the more consumables are going to be used.
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Apr 26, 2016 14:51
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EightBit posted:The longer a job, the more consumables are going to be used. Okay. There's a show on Velocity called Restoration Garage where one of the guys quit because he didn't want to weigh out and record the amount of body filler he had to use.
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Apr 26, 2016 14:54
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Why did you even bother asking if you're just going to flip your poo poo at everyone who doesn't tell you what you wanted to hear? How am I flipping my poo poo at anyone in here? All I did was clown on the invoice, take it easy my man. some texas redneck posted:The fog lights are generally attached to the bumper, so they have to be removed when the bumper comes off. Hey man I'm not trying to duck out of paying poo poo or not own up, thats why I left my poo poo in the first place when afaik I didn't even damager her car. I got no hate for an 8 year old hyundai I was mainly just pointing out the absurdity of like a few centimeters of paint coming 1/10 of the way to totalling a car. I'd hate to imagine if I dented her poo poo, my rear end would be buying her a new car right now going by these rates. What is clear coat? How can I tell if it was damaged? Anyway if I gave you the impression I wasn't grateful for your advice before, my bad, I do appreciate it I was just pointing out some poo poo I thought was dumb about the invoice. Mister Kingdom posted:How do they charge for supplies by the hour? And I can only wonder what the "miscellaneous" is. No idea this whole invoice poo poo is wild to me. I figured it would be for like mixing the paint or something. As for the 'miscellaneous' section, why even have an invoice if you're gonna include a section like "THE REST OF THE MONEY I WANT TO CHARGE YOU"l. Granted its only $13.50.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:07
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88h88 posted:Depending on the scratch I would've told her I'd get some compound and get it out myself. And this is the fun of dealers and body shops, they're out to make money and will try to do so by bending you over, there are no favours... I think what I'm gonna try and sell her is me just giving her $150 bucks, straight up. I think that is win-win cause: 1) Does she want $150 or her bumper to be minus a tiny scratch. I mean if her car being immaculate is important to her than she won't take this deal but I can't imagine why she would give a gently caress about that. 2) She gets $150 to spend on anything she wants. 3) I save like $400. 4) We get to stick it to the greedy cabal of auto mechanics. I think if I convince her we have a common enemy that will work for me during negotiations. Failing that I'll probably do insurance.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:16
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Dog Jones posted:
You should probably just do insurance anyway. Your insurance company will send an adjuster or make her take her car to one. She'll get a check for the damage. The body shop will then use whatever the check is for to fix it instead of go hog wild with an estimate.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:30
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Dog Jones posted:As for the 'miscellaneous' section, why even have an invoice if you're gonna include a section like "THE REST OF THE MONEY I WANT TO CHARGE YOU"l. Granted its only $13.50. That's a fair point, but it's probably weird poo poo like PB Blaster to get all the screws and bolts free, masking tape, and whatever weird rear end poo poo they use but don't want to actually list because it'll make the invoice ridiculously long and everyone will start arguing "But if you wait until it's on sale at Lowes you could get it cheaper and I want that sale price to save fifty cents on my six hundred dollar bill because it adds up!"
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Apr 26, 2016 16:19
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My wife has a 1998 Honda Civic with sunroof. There is a leak leading to the front floorboard, mostly on the driver’s side. There is also occasional water in the trunk. To date, we’ve been dealing with it piecemeal, through dry-packs and towels as needed. Through some googling, I’m pretty sure the problem is the disintegration of the draintubes for the sunroof, such that water from sunroof depression doesn’t make it to the drains, and leaks into the car. Fixing the tubes seems like a big pain in the butt, so I’d like to avoid that for a car we likely won’t have too much longer (year or two). Is there a better (read: easier, ok if temporary) solution? For example, what would happen if I caulked the sunroof drains with silicone? Would I be risking a worse leak? Any other options? Or is there an easy way to fix that I am missing? The offender 
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Apr 26, 2016 16:28
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I'm guessing she told the person giving the estimate that someone else is paying for it so they aren't being too kind. When I brought my truck in for an estimate and told them I was paying out of pocket and not through insurance he wouldn't round up with labour time and stuff like when they go through insurance companies. Are these at dealerships or collision centres?
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Apr 26, 2016 16:35
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:I’m pretty sure the problem is the disintegration of the draintubes for the sunroof Have you tried cleaning them out? String trimmer wire does a good job.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:35
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Only cleaned the top openings. I'll def try this.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:48
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Is it dumb of me to have bought some new brakepads (Wagner ceramics) and expect a shop to install them for me?
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Apr 26, 2016 21:10
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a primate posted:Is it dumb of me to have bought some new brakepads (Wagner ceramics) and expect a shop to install them for me? Well it's unreasonable to expect them to do it for free. 
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Apr 26, 2016 21:15
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e: glitch in the matrix
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Apr 26, 2016 21:15
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spankmeister posted:Well it's unreasonable to expect them to do it for free. Other than that, it's fine right? Last time I paid for brakes it cost a fortune, so I figured if I bought the parts myself it might help me save the shop's markup for parts.
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Apr 26, 2016 21:19
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Generally if they do it, they won't warranty the work cause "we can't guarantee your parts are reliable". At least at chain shops, a good local mechanic might be more accomodating
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Apr 26, 2016 21:33
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:Only cleaned the top openings. I'll def try this. Try giving them some compressed air.
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Apr 26, 2016 21:47
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a primate posted:Is it dumb of me to have bought some new brakepads (Wagner ceramics) and expect a shop to install them for me? It's pretty easy to do on your own with a set of wrenches and Jack stands.
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Apr 26, 2016 22:28
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tater_salad posted:It's pretty easy to do on your own with a set of wrenches and Jack stands. Yea this is the next logical step. I'm a bit reticent since it's brakes but I'll have to take the plunge
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Apr 27, 2016 01:35
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Brakes are literally the easiest and most straightforward DIY project on a car.
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Apr 27, 2016 01:40
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Dog Jones posted:I think what I'm gonna try and sell her is me just giving her $150 bucks, straight up. I think that is win-win cause: Quoting this post since its the least rambly, but that actually looks quite reasonable for an invoice to respray an entire bumper. The labor rate is quite low, most places I've ever seen are charging $20 more than that per hour minimum, the price for paint is dead on for them using a good brand like nason (a gallon of clearcoat on its own is damned near $100, then you have the cost of the activator for the clear, the primer if needed and the actual paint itself) and the incidentals covers poo poo like trim adhesive, replacement body clips, consumables for sanding, body filler and the like. Given this is a dealership that seems to have an inhouse body shop, most likely someone felt sorry for the poor girl that got one of the most valuable possessions she owns damaged by some random goober. Quit trying to cheap out, contact your insurance company if you don't want to fork over the cash and suck it the gently caress up buttercup. Paint and bodywork is expensive, its just the way it is.
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Apr 27, 2016 02:22
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:My wife has a 1998 Honda Civic with sunroof. There is a leak leading to the front floorboard, mostly on the driver’s side. There is also occasional water in the trunk. To date, we’ve been dealing with it piecemeal, through dry-packs and towels as needed. Through some googling, I’m pretty sure the problem is the disintegration of the draintubes for the sunroof, such that water from sunroof depression doesn’t make it to the drains, and leaks into the car. Many years ago a friend of mine drove a TA22 Celica with a sunroof. He caulked it up every autumn and peeled the sealant off every spring. The entire roof, mind you, not just the drainage. A steady hand and Selleys All-Clear meant you could never tell. He disconnected the relay for it at the same time to avoid time consuming mistakes.
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Apr 27, 2016 06:16
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a primate posted:Other than that, it's fine right? Last time I paid for brakes it cost a fortune, so I figured if I bought the parts myself it might help me save the shop's markup for parts. You understand that the parts markup is part of their profit, so they're likely to just charge you more in labor, right? Brake jobs are the gravy that keep shops in business. Also, you probably need rotors as well. I can't remember the last non-$75+k car where it made sense to turn rotors rather than replacing them (cost wise).
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Apr 27, 2016 14:41
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So I might be buying an 84 s10 with a bad rear main seal leak. The exhaust headers are likely rusted to the block. What would be the best way to replace the rear seal assuming I won't have access to a lift?
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Apr 28, 2016 00:38
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Nubile Hillock posted:So I might be buying an 84 s10 with a bad rear main seal leak. The exhaust headers are likely rusted to the block. What would be the best way to replace the rear seal assuming I won't have access to a lift? Soak in pb blaster, run for a tiny beat to get warm and hope for the best.
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Apr 28, 2016 00:49
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Nubile Hillock posted:So I might be buying an 84 s10 with a bad rear main seal leak. The exhaust headers are likely rusted to the block. What would be the best way to replace the rear seal assuming I won't have access to a lift? Same as above with the addition of soak in your favorite penetrating oil every day for a week. Twice on Sunday.
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Apr 28, 2016 01:17
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Slavvy posted:Brakes are literally the easiest and most straightforward DIY project on a car. Stupid question but I haven't changed brakes since the early 90's when you had to practically wear a haz-mat suit. Is it safe now to change brakes without proper dust control?
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Apr 28, 2016 01:49
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I think? My Enfield had asbestos pads, though.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:03
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inkblottime posted:Stupid question but I haven't changed brakes since the early 90's when you had to practically wear a haz-mat suit. Unless you're working on a 70's nova you found rotting in a shed yeah you're safe. Geirskogul posted:I think? My Enfield I'll just stop you right there.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:05
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StormDrain posted:Same as above with the addition of soak in your favorite penetrating oil every day for a week. Twice on Sunday. Or just cut the exhaust to make pulling the engine easy and do it outside or get a better engine for $600?
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Apr 28, 2016 03:03
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Geirskogul posted:I think? My Enfield had asbestos pads, though. Isn't the most recent Enfield still nearly 50 years old?
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Apr 28, 2016 03:24
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Memento posted:Isn't the most recent Enfield still nearly 50 years old? They still sell new ones. http://royalenfield.com/usa/mobile/motorcycles/ I mean, they're still mostly the old designs, but they're newly manufactured.
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Apr 28, 2016 04:04
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Uthor posted:They still sell new ones. 
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Apr 28, 2016 04:59
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Today I was driving our '06 Escape (v6, 4wd, 120k miles...green colored) at about 55mph and came upon a red light. As I slowed down and approached 0mph, the engine bogged down as if I was driving a manual and hadn't depressed the clutch. As I came to a complete stop, the engine stalled. I did some frantic combination of slamming the gear selector around and key-turning to get the engine restarted. We drove about an hour more and nothing else strange happened. Any idea what gives? No CEL codes or anything.
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Apr 28, 2016 05:21
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