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Tea Bone posted:Okay, on which part? Granted my wallets look nowhere near as professional as yours. Sorry, that was a little tongue in cheek comment. At least my attitude towards leatherworking is always strive to perfection on every single little detail, it can always be better and it's never easy doing so. Any interest in a little tutorial/picture slide show on something I could do?
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Jul 7, 2015 11:21
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I am interested, definitely
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Jul 9, 2015 05:25
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Tea Bone posted:Wallets are fairly simple. I follow the pattern from here: http://www.artofmanliness.com/2012/11/30/how-to-make-a-wallet/ Although I use a slightly heavier leather for the outside (~4oz) and pigskin for the card slots etc. Thanks for the insight. Emushka posted:Sorry, that was a little tongue in cheek comment. At least my attitude towards leatherworking is always strive to perfection on every single little detail, it can always be better and it's never easy doing so. I am certainly interested in a tutorial. Especially if it is how to make a wallet 
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Jul 9, 2015 12:15
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or start things off with some basics of leatherworking? I'll do the wallet in the next few weeks!
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Jul 9, 2015 12:55
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Ok, i'm not sure how to post the whole thing here. A lot of photos! I made a photo "slideshow" to my blog site with pictures and text. http://www.artehelsinki.com/blog/2015/7/18/how-i-make-a-card-wallet You can ask questions here.
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Jul 18, 2015 11:49
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Emushka posted:Ok, Absolutely amazing! 
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Jul 21, 2015 12:42
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syntaxrigger posted:Absolutely amazing! wow, thanks. maybe a watch strap pictorial next?
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Jul 22, 2015 13:31
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So, I need to buy a new belt. I have belt buckles that I swap out as I feel like it, so it needs to be able to accommodate that. I'd like leather that will weather and look all awesome after a while. Do any of you goons make and sell belts?
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Jul 22, 2015 13:51
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Seconding that Emushka's wallet pictorial was incredible! I made small notebook slipcovers a while back that looked almost identical to those in design, but they're really rough, partly because I didn't put nearly as much care into them as you did that wallet. The process you posted was very much a, "good, now here's what you did wrong, go try again," moment for me. Thank you so much for sharing! What thickness of leather did you use for the outer section and lining? It looks so thin from far away, but so chunky in the close-ups, it's hard to tell.
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Jul 22, 2015 17:23
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That is a beautiful wallet but my problem is I can't for the life of me find where to buy an electric edge crease tool in NA (Canada specifically). Anyone else ever find one? Or any ideas on alternatives?
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Jul 22, 2015 17:42
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Baron Fuzzlewhack posted:Seconding that Emushka's wallet pictorial was incredible! thanks! Like I said before, this is not easy and it will not be easy... if you look at the pictures of the wallet, some of the stitching still is crooked. after all these years, things happen and you learn. doing things is the best way to learn, so keep doing it! I think I've made about 50 of those same wallets so far and there is still things that gets messed up. The black perlinger is 1.5mm from memory and the chevre (lining and pockets) is 1mm thick. The skiving makes the edges uniform. I'll post up pictures next week for the same design with multiple pockets that is in the making at the moment. the edge thickness is the same. Wordicuffs posted:That is a beautiful wallet but my problem is I can't for the life of me find where to buy an electric edge crease tool in NA (Canada specifically). Korea has a lot of leather craftsmen and women. I've seen some of their tools like the electric creaser and don't know where they come from... Japan maybe? The quality of the results are top notch so look into one of those. I know a couple of french versions, one of them I have myself. the other one is just the tips, but can be attached to a normal soldering iron. Maybe 50 euros per tip. the tips that you see on ebay from china for a normal soldering iron _might_ work. Looking at the quality of the tools, i don't see how the tip could be on the correct heat with bulkiness as they are. I would not bet money on those. the point of the tool is the quality of the crease that it makes, heat spread in the tip plus the heat adjustment being the most important. different types of leather and different part of the process needs different temperatures. different type of edge paints work in different temperatures. different tips for different curves and corners. I would say that if you're serious, you get the french one. i've seem some versions of us makers, but i am a little sceptical looking at the quality of those. If your'e the real deal, an old school harcore leatherworker, a manual edge creaser plus an alcohol lamp will have the same results if you buy a quality one from vergex blanchard for example. I think I could manage with one of those, but would not be easy. that's how they did it back in the day. veg tanned leather is easier in that sense, since it burns up pretty quick if the creaser is too hot. a manual creaser plus an alcohol lamp would be fine. personally i am saving myself from headache, so i bought the electric one. same deal with a skiving machine. would make my life hell of a lot easier. some day. fineleatherworking.com sells the french one and other french tools in the US. the prices are what they are, but the tools are the best ones you can get. Emushka fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 18:44
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Emushka posted:Korea has a lot of leather craftsmen and women. I've seen some of their tools like the electric creaser and don't know where they come from... Japan maybe? The quality of the results are top notch so look into one of those. I know a couple of french versions, one of them I have myself. the other one is just the tips, but can be attached to a normal soldering iron. Maybe 50 euros per tip. Nice, thanks for the info and the link to the website; I didn't know it existed and it looks like it has some nice stuff. I don't make stuff to sell I just make stuff as a hobby and to makes things my friends and family and I need instead of having to buy them (I got into leatherworking because I was tired of buying lovely belts when it's easy to make a good one for the same cost) so $600+ dollars is a bit steep for that purpose. I was going to get that manual french one but you mentioned Korea so I did a search and found this ETSY store that sells a bunch of Korean leathercraft stuff including a couple electric edge creasers. They're not as nice but they look good for what I need them for and I think I can roll the dice for $40 shipped. If not I'll get that manual one; I'm not afraid of a challenge and playing with fire is always fun  Still, I think I'll buy that paring knife you have from fineleatherworking.com. That is a thing of beauty.
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Jul 22, 2015 21:53
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Emushka posted:Ok, Where can I grab one of those fileteuse tools? I've seen that thing on the blogs of like 4 different leather workers this week and it seems to make for fantastic edge work. edit: ok that was answered above me, to contribute: Are there any tutorials on the use of that thing?
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Jul 23, 2015 04:05
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Wordicuffs posted:Nice, thanks for the info and the link to the website; I didn't know it existed and it looks like it has some nice stuff. welcome! You could try one of those lamp dimmers to control the heat of the electric creaser... it can bust up or just not work without a certain amount of juice. worth a try I guess. I actually use and have a combination of 3 different knives that I use for skiving... one you see in the pics, one with rounded profile and one knife type. all of them have their uses. remember to sharpen and polish the blades when you get them. WayneCampbell posted:Where can I grab one of those fileteuse tools? I've seen that thing on the blogs of like 4 different leather workers this week and it seems to make for fantastic edge work. I think fineleatherworking.com has some kind of tutorial when you buy one. besides that, no tutorials online. the heat setting and how to use it depends on the leather type of course, is there an angle etc etc. tons of youtube videos, books written in french... but in reality a lot of try and error. test pieces is a pretty good way to start every creasing phase like in the tutorial.  You watch the tutorial again, there is a lot of techniques and such "written in between the lines" so to speak.there is always this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw43Isosh_s Emushka fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 07:25
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Some new stuff. Watch strap for a Rolex glidelock clasp.   2 straps for a Panerai watch.     and a wallet. again. 
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Sep 3, 2015 13:39
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So gonna try something really basic, a leather leash handle. I'm thinking of doing it in the same style as this, wrapping one end around the other and putting in a couple rivets around an O ring at the end: Is this a sane plan? Am I overthinking something this simple?
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Sep 21, 2015 05:35
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FISHMANPET posted:So gonna try something really basic, a leather leash handle. I'm thinking of doing it in the same style as this, wrapping one end around the other and putting in a couple rivets around an O ring at the end: GO FOR IT!
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Sep 21, 2015 13:47
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Emushka posted:Some new stuff. This stuff is all beautiful. I like to dabble with wallets and such, mostly in deerskin, but they never come out like this. I especially like the blue ostrich wallet. And leash guy, do it for sure. HungryMedusa fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 13:27
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FInally got the rings in the mail today, so: I picked up some scrap leather at a ren fest this year, turns out none of it works well for this, the stuff in the front is nice and stiff but the front is a daaaaark brown and then obviously the inside is much browner. The other two are a much less stiff leather, but all black. It's kind of hard to cut narrow strips with such floppy (what's the word for the opposite of stiff leather?) stuff. The width of the strap is only 3/8" so if you're off by a little bit it looks weird. The top one would be perfect except I punched the hole to big so the rivets are offset, in the middle one I punched the correct size hole but the piece wasn't wide enough. So I'm gonna have to get me one of those tools I see in belt making videos, and then find some better leather as well. Thankfully I've got so many pieces of hardware I can afford to mess around. I got 100 rings for $4 and the rivets were like $7 all told with shipping for 100 as well.
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Sep 30, 2015 04:55
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I recently decided to try and make a pair of shoes. Made a plaster last of my feet, cut out some paper templates and just last night sewed the uppers to the lowers. Sorry for the poor quality photo, phone camera and my apartment doesn't have great lighting
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Nov 2, 2015 18:08
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look! i made a video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY4d0381AFA
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Nov 17, 2015 20:26
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Very well done! Great video editing as well. What's the device you use at 4:23 (and once earlier in the video) called?
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Nov 17, 2015 20:54
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I was planning on making some thongs (flip flops  ) out of old tyres for Christmas gifts, and was thinking of using kangaroo leather for the strap part to give it that authentic Aussie touch. I emailed a local seller asking about it, and he said roo leather is only 1mm thick, so he wasn't sure how well it'd work for my application. Could I double (or triple) it up to shore up the strength, and if so, what would be the best way to go about it? I was thinking of using some shoe glue (which I'll need for gluing the tyres to the uppers anyways), and/or stitching it together, although aside from re-attaching the odd button know nothing of sewing, or leatherworking for that matter. I could either do it as separate strips, or fold the same piece over, although I lean towards the former as folding might make it a bit uneven.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:17
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Kangaroo leather is very thin, butsupposedly the strongest leather for its thickness. I haven't used it, but I have a pair of motorcycle gloves with kangaroo palms. You're right that you don't want a single thickness for your straps, they'll roll up and cut into the feet before long. Doubling it over doesn't really resolve the issue. What I'd try is to make them in a similar manner to a purse handle. http://sewplicity.com/2014/04/attach-rolled-leather-handles/ Go through the images in there, it'll give you the right idea. Basically it's a rope center that you wrap the leather around then sew the edges together. Keep the seam on the outside, else it'll rub into the foot. Search for "rolled leather handle" to get more ideas. Anyway, that's what I'd do. Hope it helps.
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Nov 18, 2015 06:22
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cloudy posted:Very well done! Great video editing as well. What's the device you use at 4:23 (and once earlier in the video) called? thanks! The tool is called Fileteuse manuelle. All the tools are from france, so the names are french aswell.
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Nov 18, 2015 08:13
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Hello leatherworking thread! Im interested in making a few items maybe as gifts, how much do i need to spend to get myself setup with tools and materials to begin with? If someone could post or point me towards a kit list that would be awesome. Ghetto Blaster fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Nov 26, 2015 |
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Nov 26, 2015 16:12
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Ghetto Blaster posted:Hello leatherworking thread! Im interested in making a few items maybe as gifts, how much do i need to spend to get myself setup with tools and materials to begin with? If someone could post or point me towards a kit list that would be awesome. This may be contrary to a lot of other advice, but I'd say find your local Tandy and get one of their smaller kits. http://www.tandyleather.com/en/category/starter-sets The Basic and Deluxe are both decent, and you can do some starter projects. After that you'll realize where your interests lie. If stamping and tooling doesn't interest you but sewing does, spend your next $50 on better sewing tools, etc. You could also build up a tool kit one piece at a time. I'd say an absolute bare minimum would be a knife (I mostly use a cheap utility knife with disposable blades) and a way to sew, along with a way to set rivets. What kind of projects are you thinking about making?
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Nov 26, 2015 20:59
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Belts/wallets/sheaths smaller items I guess. In in the U.K and have been googling around to find shops that might stock this sort of thing without much luck, so will probably be ordering online.
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Nov 26, 2015 22:13
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Ghetto Blaster posted:Belts/wallets/sheaths smaller items I guess. In in the U.K and have been googling around to find shops that might stock this sort of thing without much luck, so will probably be ordering online.
This doesn't even touch tooling and carving, which is a skill on it's own. That requires more tools; a swivel knife and basic stamp set is going to be at least $30 for the cheapest cheap stuff you can find. Realistically you're looking at $30 for the knife itself, and between $5 and $20 per stamp. That or find a machinist who owes you a lot of favors.
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Nov 29, 2015 15:09
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Salvaged an old briefcase to make a quiver.    Nothing special, and the stitching isn't really pretty, but it's functional.
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Dec 17, 2015 23:40
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so I did something with leather today. Upholstered the inside of a really nice cigar box. It went pretty well, I used posterboard to glue the leather to and posteboard with a piece of thin foam for the bottom. There's 1 spot where I hosed up and there's a small gap, but it's in the front corner so you really can't see it unless you look for it.  
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May 3, 2016 16:40
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I made my first pair of medieval turnshoes:  I need thicker leather for the uppers, but these are the comfiest things ever.
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Jul 13, 2016 06:52
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Those are cool, did you follow a specific guide or pattern?
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Jul 15, 2016 13:24
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Thank you! I wanted to make something like these: wherearetheelves.net/split-pullstrap-shoes-goubitz-type-30-ib/ The images give a good idea of the construction. I don't have the book they got inspiration from, so I improvised a pattern by using an old sock and duct tape  And finally I reinforced the uppers where the strap is sewed to, I still need to sew the bottom part of the opening but they're pretty much done. 
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Jul 15, 2016 21:45
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Why do you want thicker uppers?
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Jul 16, 2016 01:32
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I'm doing shoes for my medieval combat group, this suede is way too thin and they will wear down quickly.
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Jul 16, 2016 01:39
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A local supplier has unfinished whole lambskins for a couple bucks, is that a decent thing to start out on in terms of making notebook covers & wallets & that sort of thing? I've been looking around for a few days but can't find much else short of full sides or finished/pigmented offcuts, and neither of those really do it for me. I'm in NZ, so ordering from Tandy isn't really a viable option. I'm expecting it to be quite thin, but would I be able to finish it with some kind of paraffin/beeswax/other oil blend to make it a little less absorbent?
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Sep 18, 2016 22:09
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Leatherworking goons, I have a bunch of stuff I'm getting rid of. Tools and scraps, mostly. I don't have a list of it yet, but I'm looking to just off-load all of it for very very cheap. I'm talking maybe $50 for about $300 worth of stuff. This would be a great way for someone to start the hobby with lots of tools and some scraps of different sizes and types of leather to try out! If anyone is interested, shoot me an email at fuzzmeetup at Google mail. If you're in the Richmond, VA area, we can work out something much more easily.
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Oct 16, 2016 19:52
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Baron Fuzzlewhack posted:Leatherworking goons, I have a bunch of stuff I'm getting rid of. Tools and scraps, mostly. I don't have a list of it yet, but I'm looking to just off-load all of it for very very cheap. I'm talking maybe $50 for about $300 worth of stuff. Message sent.
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Oct 16, 2016 22:24
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Hi all. I'm performing a bit of thread necromancy because this hobby of yours has caught my attention and I'd like to start with babby's first projects, e.g. keychains, luggage tags, notebook covers, etc. While I might eventually work my way up to more complex stuff, I'm happy to start off simple. And like pretty much every other newbie, I come here because I could use some guidance before buying tools. I know that I won't be doing any stamping (other than lettering) or tooling, and I also don't mind springing for higher-quality tools if they actually make a difference. I've been burned by going super-cheap early on in other crafts (woodworking, knifemaking) and I never find the inevitable frustration worth the initial money savings. I always end up buying better tools anyway... So, many of the Tandy kits and sets on Amazon either include stuff I don't care about or seem pretty suspect quality-wise (with reviews split between likely-fake positive and certainly-real negative). That means I'm looking at getting some (all?) of the following: an awl, groover, hole chisels, overstitch wheel, a hole punch, needles, and, eventually, a lettering kit. Does it make sense to get more expensive stuff (Weaver, Barry King, CS Osborne and their lovely, lovely site) or are there more affordable brands/sources I should be considering? Alternatively, are any of the tools I'm looking at simply not worth spending a lot on (i.e. any piece of pig iron will do) and should I instead save money on those and splurge on others? Hopefully someone out there still reads this  I'd appreciate it if you can point me in the right direction. Thanks!
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Jan 20, 2017 06:55
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