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If anyone hasn't seen this yet, pretty good article http://hackaday.com/2016/04/28/the-makerbot-obituary/
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Apr 30, 2016 00:42
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Just a note about the monoprice, their eBay store has it on sale sometimes for about 300$ shipped or really close. Added. ReelBigLizard posted:... it's a loving great printer... That is a bizarre set of choice for the extruder drive setup. Added. Mister Sinewave posted:If anyone hasn't seen this yet, pretty good article I trimmed the guess I had on the future of Makerbot from the avoid Makerbot section in my recommendations post. It is hard for me to think that Sratasys will abandoned the brand name, but even then they have a good chance of folding by 2018. Outsourcing their printers is likely a good thing and should put their price point more in line of where it should be but the brand has a lot of baggage at this point.
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Apr 30, 2016 17:14
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There's a mention of how it's a brand name for non-techies, but I don't think that's totally true. It's like computers about 10 years ago or even today if people aren't decided on Apple: people will ask a nerd "I heard of 'makerbot' are they any good?" and any nerd worth his evangelion dvd collection will say "gently caress no smart extruder, also bre pettis is terrible". The only way to save their business is to get printers in retail stores.
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Apr 30, 2016 19:30
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What's wrong with Bre Pettis? I talked to him at a few Maker Faires and he always seemed like a really nice guy.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:01
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Yeah he made decisions that turned out bad and nerds have long memories for indirect slights but I'm sure it seemed like the right direction at the time for whatever reasons. It's more just a shame/waste is all.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:28
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Man I'm having a real hard time figuring out a good wiring management system for my i3. Can you Prusa i3 guys who have a mostly stock system give me some suggestions how you did your cable management? Specifically I'm having some issues deciding how to run my hotend heater/thermo and extruder motor wires. The rest is just figuring how to make everything pretty.
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:34 on May 1, 2016 |
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May 1, 2016 01:31
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The cable drag chains used on the Monoprice/Wanhao i3 are pretty clean and effective, if that's what you mean.
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May 1, 2016 04:50
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Agree, drag chains are awesome if you get them set up right. I sleeved all mine in expandable sleeveing. Ran all the wires for the extruder stuff through one bigger one.
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May 1, 2016 05:09
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Trip report Raise3D N2- It's everything it promised to be in the kickstarter. My buddy had just gotten done installing and troubleshooting the new V2 assembly. Tech support responds immediately or within about 24 hours if it's something new. It's not perfect or bulletproof, but very little is. We had to adjust the feed mechanism wheels twice on the right extruder. But the bed is HUGE, and the layer resolution is as good as it gets. The only design flaw I noticed was putting the spools inside the enclosure (physical tension on a tight spool could cause the extruder to slip).. it sure is pretty. The onboard computer, remote monitoring capabilities, touch screen- amazing. http://imgur.com/a/s5Ux5 The clear print is petg, 10% infill. The blue box is PLA, and the magnets slipped in perfectly. It's smooth to the touch, and a light coat of epoxy resin or even fill primer would (like what Smooth On markets for 3D printers) will make both pieces as smooth as if they were injection molded from perfect machined dies. We're going to start a 3D print of Iron Man next week.
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May 1, 2016 07:04
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Heres the benchy from our raise3d when it originally came in, and a lot of random stuff I made on it in PLA++ (nylon infused PLA) http://imgur.com/a/EHYY9
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May 1, 2016 13:27
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Wow, those look great!
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May 1, 2016 17:34
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Iron Man Arc Reactor with Hatchbox PLA. http://imgur.com/a/S0SES
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May 1, 2016 23:54
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Heres the benchy from our raise3d when it originally came in, and a lot of random stuff I made on it in PLA++ (nylon infused PLA) Is that the stuff from Breathe 3DP?
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May 2, 2016 00:58
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I bet the printer on the space station is insane at bridging.
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May 2, 2016 02:08
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Heres the benchy from our raise3d when it originally came in, and a lot of random stuff I made on it in PLA++ (nylon infused PLA) I'm sitting here like "WHOA AWESOME I WONDER IF I CAN GET MY PRINTER LOOKING THAT GOOD!" and then I realize mine cost like 350$, and I'm pretty much betting that's a 1-2k printer. Doesn't change that it's a pretty awesome set of prints!
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May 2, 2016 02:12
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I'm sitting here like "WHOA AWESOME I WONDER IF I CAN GET MY PRINTER LOOKING THAT GOOD!" and then I realize mine cost like 350$, and I'm pretty much betting that's a 1-2k printer. $2700
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May 2, 2016 03:01
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I'm sitting here like "WHOA AWESOME I WONDER IF I CAN GET MY PRINTER LOOKING THAT GOOD!" and then I realize mine cost like 350$, and I'm pretty much betting that's a 1-2k printer. Your prints can look that good. A $2700 printer can do good looking prints larger, faster, with other materials, and more consistently.
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May 2, 2016 03:24
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insta posted:Is that the stuff from Breathe 3DP? yes. that poo poo is real good for easy rugged prints I still use bukitos when i can't use the other one and they can do pretty good, but each one has its own quirk and im lucky that the guy running and maintaining these has made a career out of it. moron izzard fucked around with this message at 03:31 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 03:29
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ante posted:Check out Shapeways and 3D Hubs for quotes, estimates, etc. So I went to 3D Hubs and actually found a guy in the neighborhood next to me that apparently has a small business doing this. http://p3dcreations.com/ Got the prints in today and for $24 I'm totally stoked at the print.     The only issues it has is the small little printing defect by one of the button holes, not sure what happened there but no biggie and the edges on the orange part are a little rough, mostly on the part that is at an angle, you can kinda see it in the image of the back of the orange. Otherwise for $24 this will work great for the build I'm doing. mattfl fucked around with this message at 22:25 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 22:23
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Yeah, looks like his overhangs could use a little tweaking (or it could just be the design...it doesn't look super fdm-friendly, with those overhangs and all), not sure about the globby weird thing by the button hole. In either case, a little sandpaper and some elbow grease would clean it right up, depending on how much effort you want to put in. Which is often the case: a fine print can be made good, a good print can be made great, it's all just a matter of how much post-processing you care to put in. 
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May 2, 2016 23:03
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It's the model -- the overhangs are all round, and the gaps that need support are like .2mm off the bed, so there's no easy way to add it.
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May 3, 2016 00:06
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If the face on the bed wasn't so critical in that print, I'd consider doing it on a thin raft. I've had fantastic luck printing on a raft when I need really small amounts of support like that. But then, of course, you get the slight marring of the surface from the raft itself. Although a big flat face like that would be a cinch to sand smooth and pretty. Speaking of post-processing, any of you tried smooth-on's XTC 3D? I'm considering giving it a shot.
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May 3, 2016 00:09
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mattfl posted:So I went to 3D Hubs and actually found a guy in the neighborhood next to me that apparently has a small business doing this. http://p3dcreations.com/ Sweet. And yeah, keep in mind that 3D printing is still mostly good for rapid prototyping, not finished prints. It gets you 90% of where you need to get, but some elbow grease shouldn't be shied away from. Bad Munki posted:If the face on the bed wasn't so critical in that print, I'd consider doing it on a thin raft. I've had fantastic luck printing on a raft when I need really small amounts of support like that. But then, of course, you get the slight marring of the surface from the raft itself. Although a big flat face like that would be a cinch to sand smooth and pretty. I know people that have used it, and haven't heard any rave reviews or anything. More like, "yeah, it works, I guess". Enough that I even have some sitting in storage that someone gave me for free. I think it's mostly to get prints in good shape for casting. It's :tenbux: though, so go buy some and report back.
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May 3, 2016 01:25
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n.. posted:I sand my PEI all the time when it gets marred up after a bunch of prints. Still works great. 2000 grit wet sanding seems to have done the trick!. Thanks. Ran some tests and it's decent. Still need to fiddle with the retract rate, I think.
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May 3, 2016 03:05
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I've tried XTC 3D once on a couple of different prints that were admittedly a bit ratty. How well it works depends on what sort of shape you have and how much detail you have and are willing to lose. It's probably best for models that have large surfaces intended to be smooth and without any concave corners the goop will fill in. Probably good for model skulls and dinosaurs and poo poo like that. It looks from the instructions that you can thin it with isopropyl so I might try that to see if I can get it a little more under control, it was pretty viscous.
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May 3, 2016 03:27
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Not entirely 3d printing related but If anyone has experience with getting things injection molded I could use some advice. I've been designing 3d printable cases for a Raspberry pi based aviation accessort and want to get something molded not to cut costs but to increase the external finish. This is the latest prototype that should be possible with a simple two piece mold (other than the two holes but they could be drilled afterwards).    Has anyone here had this done? There is a local company and the best estimate I have gotten from them is "thousands", there is a huge difference between $2000 and $12000 as far as financial viability goes.
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May 3, 2016 03:31
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Quick question: what does a rpi do differently or better in aviation that a microcontroller can? For data collection and logging I can't think of any. It's fairly "bulky," systems and power and size and processing overhead-wise in every aspect unless you need a full PC somewhere.
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May 3, 2016 03:40
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helno posted:Not entirely 3d printing related but If anyone has experience with getting things injection molded I could use some advice. I have a little bit of experience with injection molding, although I'm not particularly technical. If you just want a realistic ballpark quote, you could try using ICOmold.com's online system. Takes a bit for them to get back to you (vice, say, ProtoMold) but they do fairly low quantities and their facility is in China. (I am not affiliated and I have not run a product through them.)
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May 3, 2016 03:43
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I've used the XTC-3D and it's really more like coating your parts in jelly than any sort of miracle cure for surface finish issues. It smooths out the ridges, and it's easy to apply, but you'll lose detail. Only really works on large, convex parts, as noted.
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May 3, 2016 03:45
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helno posted:Not entirely 3d printing related but If anyone has experience with getting things injection molded I could use some advice. ... why have I been getting printing jobs for this part, from many people?
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May 3, 2016 03:53
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Geirskogul posted:Quick question: what does a rpi do differently or better in aviation that a microcontroller can? For data collection and logging I can't think of any. It's fairly "bulky," systems and power and size and processing overhead-wise in every aspect unless you need a full PC somewhere. https://github.com/cyoung/stratux/releases/tag/v0.8r2 The pi is being used to process ADS-B signals using two software defined radios and broadcasting that data to electronic flight bag software to display weather and traffic. It works with the Pizero as well and I have a prototype of that but the availability of the pi0 is a limiting factor on development in that direction.  
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May 3, 2016 03:53
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helno posted:Not entirely 3d printing related but If anyone has experience with getting things injection molded I could use some advice. If you're wanting to get it printed with a better surface finish, you should get it printed using a resin based printer as oppose to an FDM one. Injection molding is not cheap. If you're doing a low volume production and using aluminum injection molds, your tooling could easily run you $10,000 and your piece our cost for something like 100 pieces would still be on the order of a couple hundred bucks apiece. You could also look into smoothing the current part as well.
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May 3, 2016 03:57
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Also, my understanding is that you'll need to make modifications to your design such as adding draft angles and making sure thicknesses are even etc. You can get SLA prints for $0.95 per gram, even though I haven't tried it myself: http://dev.dangerousprototypes.com/store/print3d
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May 3, 2016 04:10
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Injection mould design is also a field entirely above "hey can anyone tell me how to do this quick. lot more goes into it than you think. General strategy (even for professionals) is to model the part exactly as you want it, and then hand it off to the engineer who works for the factory itself to add draft angles, design flow patterns, and ejection pin placement.
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May 3, 2016 06:00
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Ran some more test prints: Very stable on Z!  Overhang and retraction needs work:   The PEI sheet seems like magic right now. Only takes a small nudge to detach the prints, but enough that it wont detach itself. Certainly doesn't stick as much as original, but I think it's actually better now. I do need to re-think how I hang my filament. It binds easily after I moved off the printer and I need to watch it. It'll mean designing a new holder.
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May 3, 2016 06:49
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Bad Munki posted:
I prefer Smooth-On's Epoxamite 100-103 if you're going to go that route. It's pretty much the same stuff but cheaper by volume.
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May 3, 2016 07:37
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I have been waiting for 3d printers to get cheap enough that I can afford one. I totally didnt expect that to be yet but then came across this: http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3 DIY Kit - $147 with another $60 delivery. I get this is an i3 clone and other than the acrylic frame it seems a decent kit and has the LCD screen too. Would this be a decent starter? It has a good bed size. I will mainly be using it for stuff around the house and my hobby which is marine fish keeping.
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May 3, 2016 11:54
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Our makerspace gets a corner for free in a local government facility called the Digital Greenhouse, the Director who got us into the space finished his contract so I designed and printed him a 3D thankyou card / ornament. https://twitter.com/makerspace_gg/status/726094498749665280 The yellow piece is the logo for the facility. The greenhouse is a multi piece model I designed to print all on one bed of an ultimaker 2. The bust is his head, scanned with a Structure scanner on an iPad mini, cleaned up in meshmixer. Really pleased with how it came out. A mix of natural and translucent PLAs and a white PLA for the head. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1526379
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May 3, 2016 14:28
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ante posted:Injection mould design is also a field entirely above "hey can anyone tell me how to do this quick. lot more goes into it than you think. General strategy (even for professionals) is to model the part exactly as you want it, and then hand it off to the engineer who works for the factory itself to add draft angles, design flow patterns, and ejection pin placement. I am well aware of that and have no intention of designing my own molds. Setting up draft angles is actually pretty easy in Solidworks. What I was looking for is anyone's experience getting parts made. There seem to be several low volume places online but was hoping someone might have actually done this.
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May 4, 2016 03:05
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helno posted:I am well aware of that and have no intention of designing my own molds. Setting up draft angles is actually pretty easy in Solidworks. symbebekos posted:I have a little bit of experience with injection molding, although I'm not particularly technical. If you just want a realistic ballpark quote, you could try using ICOmold.com's online system. Takes a bit for them to get back to you (vice, say, ProtoMold) but they do fairly low quantities and their facility is in China. (I am not affiliated and I have not run a product through them.) Did you try what this guy said?
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May 4, 2016 03:23
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