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n0tqu1tesane posted:What about hard drive manufacturers that sell hard drives based on 1000 bytes to the kilobyte versus the 1024 that the computer recognizes? That’s like complaining that you ordered a dozen of something and didn’t get a bakers dozen. HDD manufacturers (and OS X, and some Linux distros) are right. Windows is wrong.
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# ? May 3, 2016 22:59 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:40 |
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Zhentar posted:That is incorrect; there is very little file system overhead counted in that calculation. The discrepancy is mostly from spare area, reserved for remapping to optimize writes and remap failed blocks. You're right, but still the GB/GiB conversion would give less than what the OS reports.
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# ? May 3, 2016 23:46 |
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coathat posted:From what I've heard the Kobalt trimmers not that good. Ego seems to be the best overall in battery lawn tools. Plus they're really focused on growing their brand so they'll be really generous with their warranty. That's good to know. I keep hearing good things about Ego when I do google searches, and almost nothing about Kobalt. I'll try to take a trip to Home Depot soon and see if I just happened to miss the Ego trimmer. Or, if I go for the Ego mower (the self-propelled one is interesting to me, though I'm wondering about battery life with it), I might just make a blind purchase through the online thing. We have a trimmer now that I can at least use for a little while. Assuming I can ever figure out how to actually trim, and what I'm trying to do when I do so. blindjoe posted:I plan on getting the Stihl RMA 370 when I finally get mad at my lovely toro. I have a co-worker that is completely in love with Stihl, but I'm not sure where I could actually find any near me. And while they have a battery mower, I've yet to actually see anyone talk about it online like I have the Ego. EDIT: Okay, I can't figure out how to google this effectively. The Ego trimmers have both a 12" model and a 15" model. What's the big deal about the string length, and why would I want one over the other? Axiem fucked around with this message at 04:54 on May 4, 2016 |
# ? May 4, 2016 04:43 |
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Platystemon posted:That’s like complaining that you ordered a dozen of something and didn’t get a bakers dozen. So 10% of PCs are right, and 90% are wrong. (I don't really care, I was more pointing out that there are multiple ways to measure some things that can be both technically right)
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# ? May 4, 2016 05:01 |
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Axiem posted:That's good to know. I keep hearing good things about Ego when I do google searches, and almost nothing about Kobalt. I'll try to take a trip to Home Depot soon and see if I just happened to miss the Ego trimmer. Or, if I go for the Ego mower (the self-propelled one is interesting to me, though I'm wondering about battery life with it), I might just make a blind purchase through the online thing. We have a trimmer now that I can at least use for a little while. Assuming I can ever figure out how to actually trim, and what I'm trying to do when I do so. The 15 inch is better. It cuts a larger area obviously but it also uses a larger diameter line so it will cut better and the line will last longer.
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# ? May 4, 2016 15:24 |
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Axiem posted:My last lawn mower finally bit the dust, so I'm looking to buy a new one. I'm quite done with gas mowers, and am totally on board with battery-powered ones. Right now, I'm heavily contemplating either the Kobalt 40v or the 80v model, and picking up the respective line trimmer and leaf blower when I do, to get a battery cycle going. Does anyone have any experience with these? Which voltage would actually be better? After only using gas mowers I'm now using a hand-me-down Ryobi 40V system (Mower + String Trimmer) that came with one 2-AH battery that is only enough to do the back or 2/3rds of the front. I've since gone out and ordered this 5-AH one and it lets me cut front and back in one go (~50 min of run time). I leave it on the second highest setting to cut my zoysia but it can bog down if a wheel sinks a bit but I don't think I'll ever go back to gas. It's too convenient to have a quiet, non-smelly way of mowing the yard, plus it's light enough to carry up into my backyard (the grass area is accessed via steps) and I don't feel guilty starting it up early in the morning as the sound doesn't really make it inside, let alone into the neighbor's house. My front is pretty sloped so the light-weight works out well there, too. Ideally, given the hills and the ~1/3 acre I'd have a reel mower but with the amount of trees in my yard all the little twigs would be murder on the blades. As it is I'm sharpening about once a month because I'm too lazy to pick them all up.
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# ? May 4, 2016 17:23 |
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Jonny Quest posted:As it is I'm sharpening about once a month because I'm too lazy to pick them all up. apparently I should be sharpening my mower blade more often
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# ? May 5, 2016 00:39 |
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Jonny Quest posted:Ideally, given the hills and the ~1/3 acre I'd have a reel mower That sounds like madness to me. I have a 40" zero turn for my 1/3 acre. It takes me less than 10 minutes to mow all together
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# ? May 5, 2016 03:24 |
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Squibbles posted:apparently I should be sharpening my mower blade more often Yeah, I think I"m going to have to look into that, too. I've got a Dremel, so I'm halfway there! Related to mower-chat: I was gifted a Neuton electric mower from my dad at the end of last summer when I bought my house. I hated it then, and when I first dragged it out of the garage for the first mow of the season last weekend i hated it moire. The winter was not kind to the battery (I guess to be fair,m I shouldn't have kept it outside in the cold.) I didn't want to buy a new battery because they're over $100, and I figured I can just go on Craigslist and get a halfway decent used mower for that much that does a better job. This electric can't handle long grass.,..or medium grass...or any grass, really. But then I found out I can just open up the proprietary battery case and inside are just a couple of relatively standard SLA batteries. Got replacements for $40. So once they come in I can see if all my issues with the mower are just because the batteries were dying, and also possibly the blade being too dull to cut butter.
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# ? May 5, 2016 14:02 |
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Was wondering what it might take to replace battery cells for my drill. This instructable made me laugh: http://www.instructables.com/id/Rebuild-Your-Ryobi-ONE-Battery-Pack/
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# ? May 5, 2016 14:17 |
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Gounads posted:Was wondering what it might take to replace battery cells for my drill. This instructable made me laugh: Yeah Black Friday two packs of the high capacity are the best deal in batteries out there. The only way to get cheaper batteries is the Ikea cordless SDS drill. Yeah... The drill nets cheaper batteries than buying batteries, and they are decent quality.
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# ? May 6, 2016 14:31 |
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Squibbles posted:apparently I should be sharpening my mower blade more often Most of our GWS brethren will poo poo on them left and right but I was gifted an Accusharp and I just use that to touch up the blade as needed. Since it's a bent mulching blade it's a little tricky so I may just need to stop being lazy and get the Dremel to do it properly. But I was always told to error on the side of dull with a mower blade so the Accusharp wins out for being hilariously easy to do rather than putting the right bit and blade jig on the Dremel.
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# ? May 6, 2016 16:47 |
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Jonny Quest posted:Most of our GWS brethren will poo poo on them left and right but I was gifted an Accusharp and I just use that to touch up the blade as needed. Since it's a bent mulching blade it's a little tricky so I may just need to stop being lazy and get the Dremel to do it properly. I got a bigger version of something like that for my axe. I bet it would be great for things like this.
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# ? May 6, 2016 16:56 |
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Jonny Quest posted:But I was always told to error on the side of dull with a mower blade Mower blades and axes. If they are too sharp they tend to fold over.
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# ? May 6, 2016 17:04 |
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Hmmm, the dremel blade sharpening attachment looks a lot like something I already have. Maybe I should try using it. But, uh, is there a point where the blade is too dinged up to be salvageable?
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# ? May 6, 2016 17:18 |
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Again, I have the most folklore of garden-tool education but I tend to just barely touch up a single ding because I've never bothered to properly balance my blade to make sure I'm removing the same amount of metal from the other side to compensate. I suppose I could just shove a nail through a board and make a DIY blade balance but, again, . If it's that questionable a new blade is probably $20.
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# ? May 6, 2016 18:16 |
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Motronic posted:Mower blades and axes. If they are too sharp they tend to fold over. That has to do with sharpening angle not how sharp it is. wormil posted:Axes and mower blades should be sharp, not dulled, but they need the right edge profile. This guy gets it. deimos fucked around with this message at 23:11 on May 6, 2016 |
# ? May 6, 2016 19:58 |
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deimos posted:That has to do with sharpening angle not how sharp it is. “Sharpness” is a poorly defined concept.
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# ? May 6, 2016 22:54 |
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Axes and mower blades should be sharp, not dulled, but they need the right edge profile.
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# ? May 6, 2016 23:08 |
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wormil posted:Axes and mower blades should be sharp, not dulled, but they need the right edge profile. I think I phrased what I said poorly based on the response, but yeah....what you said. You can't sharpen either with a profile like a knife or they fold over. It is about angle. And that angle is way more obtuse than the uninitiated would think.
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# ? May 7, 2016 02:30 |
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I do mine at 40-45ish degrees.
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# ? May 7, 2016 03:56 |
Just for kicks, I thought I'd crosspost this here. Probably a lot of the same crowd, but it's worth a try:Bad Munki posted:All righty, I'm back! The lawnmower is in tip top shape now. Starts great, got the blades sharpened, good to go. Now I need to figure out this drat chainsaw. It was having this problem last year and I eventually just got fed up and packed it away.
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# ? May 13, 2016 16:37 |
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Bad Munki posted:Just for kicks, I thought I'd crosspost this here. Probably a lot of the same crowd, but it's worth a try: Does this chainsaw require an oil/gas mix, or does the manual say straight gas is ok?
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# ? May 13, 2016 16:53 |
It takes a mix. It was recommended in the fix it fast thread that I try a pre-mix, as they don't have the ethanol additive, which can be hard on these little 2-strokes, so I'm giving that a try now.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 13, 2016 |
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# ? May 13, 2016 17:32 |
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Have you tried playing around with the carb screw adjustments? Sounds like it might be running kind of lean. Sharpening your blade might help a bit too. I'm not sure if seafoam is recommended for two stroke engines, but additives like that can help clean out the carburetor and other deposits in the engine. Worth a shot to try adding a bit in there, in case there's any sludge residue from the old gas. If the old gas has any ethanol in there, that causes it to break down faster and go bad quicker as well, all that's something else to consider.
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# ? May 13, 2016 17:47 |
Massasoit posted:Re chainsaw I feel like a bit of a dipshit for not chucking the old gas sooner, but this fixed it. In retrospect, I honestly can't say how old my mix was, the mix may have gone to poo poo after so many years of sitting in the shed. But I drained it, put in some premix ( at $5/qt), let it idle for a bit, and then happily cut away at some logs by my fire pit. Went like buttah. So I'm rolling my eyes at myself for not starting there, but I'm stoked because the party's back on! OSU_Matthew posted:If the old gas has any ethanol in there, that causes it to break down faster and go bad quicker as well, all that's something else to consider.
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# ? May 13, 2016 17:50 |
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Seafoam is fine for two-strokes, according to my still running mid 80's Johnson seahorse. Add it to the gas. Blow it into the carb. Suck it up the vacuum line. Screw out the plugs and put it directly onto the piston. Seafoam everywhere all the time forever. Always seafoam.
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# ? May 14, 2016 01:46 |
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Zhentar posted:That is incorrect; there is very little file system overhead counted in that calculation. The discrepancy is mostly from spare area, reserved for remapping to optimize writes and remap failed blocks. Over-provisioning is invisible to the user. For example, your 32GB Apple i-whatever actually has twice as much storage as that, but the user can only ever see the 32GB. Same kind of thing for hard drives but on a smaller scale - you will never get access to those extra blocks and they are never reported to the host unless the firmware has remapped to them. It is all down to a combination of file system overhead (format a thumb drive as FAT32/NTFS/exFAT and see the available space change) and the kilo/kibi thing.
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# ? May 14, 2016 08:30 |
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Gromit posted:Over-provisioning is invisible to the user. For example, your 32GB Apple i-whatever actually has twice as much storage as that, Citation needed.
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# ? May 14, 2016 10:14 |
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Put Seafoam in your hard disks to make them go faster.
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# ? May 14, 2016 17:29 |
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Cakefool posted:Citation needed. Gromit is his own goddamn citation son.
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# ? May 14, 2016 18:31 |
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DreadLlama posted:Put Seafoam in your hard disks to make them go faster. Can confirm, seafoam really helps clean out those old file deposits in there.
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# ? May 14, 2016 18:41 |
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deimos posted:Gromit is his own goddamn citation son. I was unaware.
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# ? May 14, 2016 22:15 |
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Cakefool posted:Citation needed. Fair statement. I was at a computer forensics training course recently and I'm pretty sure that came up in conversation with the people running it. It must have been the mobile device guys at MSAB, but I'll be damned if I can recall who it was specifically that said it. If I remember when I get back to work in a couple of days I'll look back through my notes and see if I can confirm where it came up.
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# ? May 15, 2016 06:14 |
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Sure thanks, I'd be interested. I wouldn't be surprised to hear an unreported 5-15% overhead slush fund but 100% sounded unlikely.
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# ? May 15, 2016 09:21 |
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I’ve seen as high as 60% overprovisioning (Intel SSD 710), but certainly many devices are much lower (like 10%). I don’t know about iPhones, specifically.
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# ? May 15, 2016 09:47 |
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Looking for an inexpensive, entry level dremel type tool for household jobs. I'm looking at the Dremel 200 or the 7700. Is one of those better or worse? I don't have a strong need for a cordless tool - just looking for something that can do light cutting/sanding on small projects. Open to other makes/models as well. If it's worth the extra 20 bucks for the variable speed 3,000 i'm open to that as well.
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# ? May 16, 2016 00:00 |
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I have the 7700 and it is fine for what it is. I guess I'd say if you're going to be using it for heavy duty then go for the AC powered, or if for crafts type poo poo (like me) the 7700.
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# ? May 16, 2016 00:26 |
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Cakefool posted:Sure thanks, I'd be interested. I wouldn't be surprised to hear an unreported 5-15% overhead slush fund but 100% sounded unlikely. You were right to call me out on it. After speaking with the guys who ran the course they claim ignorance, so we're asking the dev guys in Sweden, as well checking the attendance list to see who it might have been and what department they are with. That might give me some idea of the veracity of it. At this point I'd rate my original statement at the level of "poo poo my uncle who works at Nintendo says is true".
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# ? May 17, 2016 05:06 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:40 |
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Platystemon posted:I’ve seen as high as 60% overprovisioning (Intel SSD 710), but certainly many devices are much lower (like 10%).
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# ? May 17, 2016 14:40 |