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I found that Aperture Priority (ME Super "auto" mode) does pretty well at teaching you exposure too. You pick an aperture, the camera tells you what it thinks is the best shutter speed. I used it like that for a long time (still do pretty frequently) and rapidly picked up a feel for what aperture was going to give me a shutter speed of 200-500ish--basically training for Sunny 16. When I went over to a TLR with no meter, Sunny 16 was pretty easy thanks to my time spent with the ME Super's "auto" mode. The main thing to be aware of is that the camera's meter is quite stupid. Some other goon may be able to correct me, but as I understand it the meter "expects" the scene to be sort of... normal. It doesn't know if you're standing in a field of snow, it'll meter it the same as if you were in a field of grass--and then you end up with gray snow and everything else completely black. Same goes for any shot where there's a lot of sky; when I went to the ABQ Balloon Festival, I'd switch to auto mode and point at the ground to get an idea of metering, then set it into manual mode to actually shoot the balloons. Paperhouse posted:I did it - I bought an ME Super. For someone who knows nothing about photography, would you guys recommend starting with the auto function or just diving right into manual? And if I am using auto, is it literally just focus, point and shoot or are there still other considerations? I'm sorry if these are dumb questions. What lens did you get with it? I have the Pentax-M 1:1.7 50mm, a nice small lens to go with a nice small camera.
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Apr 24, 2016 17:54
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Helen Highwater posted:http://canonoutsideofauto.ca/ is also a good site for playing around with the exposure triangle and understanding what happens when you adjust one part of that. Pham Nuwen, that's the same lens that I'm getting with it. My mum told me that she has a wide angle lens she used to use with a K1000 so I might get to try that out too. Just need to buy my first roll of film now - any suggestions?
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Apr 24, 2016 18:12
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Paperhouse posted:This is really good, thanks. Are you in the US? Freestyle Photo sells "Arista EDU" black and white film. IIRC it's just repackaged Foma. Get some in 400ISO and order your chems at the same time. Unless you don't want to dive right into B&W dev, in which case probably just grab some 400ISO Fuji color film from the drugstore. Buy Portra when you're comfortable with the camera.
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Apr 24, 2016 18:22
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Kodak Porta 400 if you're willing to pay a little bit more. Kodak Ultamax 400 is similar and half the price. Ektar 100 is weird and overly vivid, imo. Fuji Superia 400 works too.
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Apr 24, 2016 18:22
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Pham Nuwen posted:The main thing to be aware of is that the camera's meter is quite stupid. Some other goon may be able to correct me, but as I understand it the meter "expects" the scene to be sort of... normal. It doesn't know if you're standing in a field of snow, it'll meter it the same as if you were in a field of grass--and then you end up with gray snow and everything else completely black. Same goes for any shot where there's a lot of sky; when I went to the ABQ Balloon Festival, I'd switch to auto mode and point at the ground to get an idea of metering, then set it into manual mode to actually shoot the balloons.
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Apr 24, 2016 20:06
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Apr 26, 2016 00:39
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Hey, bit of assistance needed repairing an old Olympus 35RD. If anyone owns one and have some spare time would you be able to post pictures of the window onto the light cell on the front. I need a small range of photos, primarily the fastest and slowest shutter speeds at the highest and lowest ASA ratings. 25-50ASA at 500/B/2 and the same at 400-800 would be amazing. I can't offer anything in return but my thanks.
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Apr 26, 2016 03:41
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nielsm posted:Fotoimpex.de and Macodirect.de both carry liquid C-41 and E-6 kits, including Digibase branded ones. I don't know if they have any shipping restrictions on them, though. I also buy Digibase kits (I'm on my fifth 5L one) from Macodirect. They seem to be all fresh and long lasting, unlike the ones I got from minor, local stores in the past.
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Apr 26, 2016 13:36
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2TAVmqg0Jo
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Apr 28, 2016 08:01
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Thirty four minutes
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Apr 28, 2016 09:20
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I have the exact opposite of whatever the hell the people have who like those videos
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Apr 28, 2016 09:37
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weird tutorial
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Apr 28, 2016 13:37
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maxmars posted:I also buy Digibase kits (I'm on my fifth 5L one) from Macodirect. They seem to be all fresh and long lasting, unlike the ones I got from minor, local stores in the past. I guess the question is how do you tell when the kits are dead? I've put ten rolled of 35mm and two rolls of 120 through a Unicolor and haven't really noticed an issue so far. I think the kit is rated at 8 rolls.
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Apr 29, 2016 02:12
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BlackMK4 posted:I guess the question is how do you tell when the kits are dead? I've put ten rolled of 35mm and two rolls of 120 through a Unicolor and haven't really noticed an issue so far. I think the kit is rated at 8 rolls. Well the Digibase dev has a typical brown-ish tint when it's depleted and turns from almost colorless / faint yellow tint when it's just been mixed to purple when it's depleted. This is the component that dies first. Bleach is bright green and produces a lot of gas when it's fresh, also turns to purple when it's nearing depletion and does not produce much gas (my reference is that the tank top doesn't pop after a couple of inversions after pouring it in). I throw away stab when it picks up a red tint, meaning it's been in contact with the remains of previous steps too much, or after 10 rolls, whichever comes first (I have surplus stab anyway because I dilute it much more than what the leaflet says). Digibase kits are not already mixed and ready to use. You need to mix four liquids + add water for the developer alone. This helps with storage, a kit (especially if you add gas for the oxidizable components) should last a year or more and you only mix the quantity you need for the rolls at hand. By your comment I gather Unicolor sells pre-mixed kits? Those will last less I think.
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Apr 29, 2016 09:32
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The unicolor kits are powered mix kits in four parts. I can't remember what color everything was from the start but the dev is brownish now, the blix is a brown-red - I shake it hard before I use it so it starts putting off bubbles again, and the stabilizer is kinda purple now. I have another kit here ready to mix, I was just curious to see how long I could push this thing but I wasn't sure what to look for in the developed negatives to indicate everything is Not Awesome.
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Apr 29, 2016 16:22
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OK, I had a weird thing happen and could do with some advice. I shot two rolls of 400 speed 120 film for a college project (still life). I was using continuous lights and metered every time I made an adjustment to the set up. When I processed my film today it was so underexposed that it was pretty much blank. Anyone got any ideas for what could have happened? I used the exact settings my light meter said and it's never been wrong before.
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May 6, 2016 01:08
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Maybe you were using incident instead of reflected or vice versa with the meter? Had the wrong iso settings in the meter?
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May 6, 2016 01:25
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Do your shutter speeds sound 'accurate'-ish?
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May 6, 2016 01:32
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Light meter was definitely on the right setting. I was using my dad's old Lubitel which had been sat in my parents loft for around 25 years. It seems in OK condition, we ran a little test a couple of weeks ago and it worked fine although the shutter sounds a bit odd. It's just a little click and doesn't feel like it's doing anything (it definitely is taking pictures though, I could see them very faint with a light box). I've borrowed the colleges Mamiya so going to try again using my strobes instead of the continuous lights and double check the exposure with my dslr.
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May 6, 2016 01:50
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Expired film? Exposed for the wrong part of the scene ? Wrong settings on the camera?
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May 6, 2016 03:05
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Lubitels can fail in all sorts of exciting ways, but I've never heard of one having faster than rated shutter speeds. That said, since it's a Lubitel, there's a 99% chance that your problem is with the camera.
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May 6, 2016 03:09
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Yeah it might be stuck at a really fast shutter setting
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May 6, 2016 05:15
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It might also have a stuck aperture. As noted above, Lubitels aren't the most reliable cameras in the world and even brand new ones could fail in various interesting ways.
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May 6, 2016 13:08
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOvTsya2r3Q&hd=1
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May 6, 2016 13:56
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Thanks everyone. I spoke to one of the other tutors at college who has a Lubitel and he said they can be temperamental. I'd still like to use it because it was my dad's and I do like the square format, I just won't use it for a big important assignment like this one.
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May 6, 2016 20:14
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I got two rolls of film back today. The first was shot by a Kodak No. 2 Brownie dated between 1907 and 1910 at Dapper Day at the Magic Kingdom. It was loaded with Ilford Delta Pro 100. The film rolled onto the take-up spool (an old metal one left in the camera) poorly and it suffered some bad light exposure when being removed (and may have a bad shutter), but I inadvertently created Disney creepypasta photos: ---_0121 by chitoryu15, on Flickr ---_0120 by chitoryu15, on Flickr ---_0118 by chitoryu15, on Flickr ---_0117 by chitoryu15, on Flickr ---_0116 by chitoryu15, on Flickr ---_0115 by chitoryu15, on FlickrThis is a roll of Fujifilm X-TRA 400 from a trip to the Sea Life Aquarium in Orlando shot on an Argus C3, dated from 1949. I've never shot 100% manual except for a few DSLR shots inside the Tower of Terror, so only 11 of the 24 photos were even exposed enough to develop. But for being a total newbie to film AND manual shooting, I'm very impressed by a few of them:  _3A_0108 by chitoryu15, on Flickr _4A_0107 by chitoryu15, on Flickr _5A_0106 by chitoryu15, on Flickr _8A_0104 by chitoryu15, on Flickr 20A_0101 by chitoryu15, on Flickr 21A_0100 by chitoryu15, on Flickr 23A_0098 by chitoryu15, on Flickr
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May 7, 2016 02:00
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I got myself a Helios 44-2 58mm for my Fujica ST705. Today I found out that the mirror hangs up when coming back from shooting when focused to infinity. Yay. Developing film now to find out if it hangs on the way up and ruins the shot. If not, gently caress it, running it anyway.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 8, 2016 |
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May 8, 2016 02:52
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I got a Helios for my spotmatic and the auto aperture pin actually moves in and out of the lens when adjusting the focus. So it only communicates the aperture with the body if you are focused on a nearby subject. As you focus towards infinity, the pin slips off the body's index lever. The Pentax lenses don't do this, obviously.
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May 8, 2016 03:00
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The 44-2 is one of the ones that you preset the aperture, then you have to close the ring manually. I think the 44-4 is the one with the pin.  I just finished developing and I'm pretty sure the mirror hangs up on the way up, but I'm not 100% until the negs dry and I can scan them in a couple of hours. Balls, I like this lens. Maybe I'll cut the internals lens a little bit because it BARELY catches judging by just having to touch the focus ring to have the mirror drop back down. Too bad the camera doesn't let you lock the mirror up.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:49 on May 8, 2016 |
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May 8, 2016 03:45
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BlackMK4 posted:The 44-2 is one of the ones that you preset the aperture, then you have to close the ring manually. I think the 44-4 is the one with the pin. This is correct. I have several examples of both.
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May 8, 2016 13:31
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Is there an actual good tutorial on getting color negatives looking right after scanning? This poo poo is ruining me.
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May 8, 2016 18:23
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I put together some photoshop actions that gets me within 95% of the final image most of the time. https://www.iamthejeff.com/files/Film%20Editing.atn Do a positive 48 bit color scan, crop out the film edges, and run the action. You get these results in one click  Depending on your preference you'll want to add some contrast too
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May 8, 2016 18:35
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I've been using that and it works really well. It just seems like I've been getting a lot of pictures with a light blue cast over everything. I'm going to assume this is because I was shooting Porta 400 during the day or something?
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May 8, 2016 19:31
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BlackMK4 posted:I've been using that and it works really well. It just seems like I've been getting a lot of pictures with a light blue cast over everything. I'm going to assume this is because I was shooting Porta 400 during the day or something? No, I'm guessing that the action works better for artificial light like in the example. Every film in every different light is going to require different curves.
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May 8, 2016 19:34
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Upon further consideration, it's probably because the ISO dial on my HiMatic got moved to 60 from 400. I think the blue overtone is hellish overexposure.
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May 8, 2016 20:00
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just bring the blue curve down in the center and see how it goes
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May 8, 2016 23:07
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So I just bought my first film camera. It's a Canon A1 and it came with the 50mm 1.8. I have 3 rolls of B+W Kodak 400TX. I'm really nervous about using B+W because I've shot in digital color ever since I've started so I don't have an eye for it at all. Is there a subject type I can really get a jump on the learning curve? I really want to discover and improve and I feel lost and out of place. Maybe some inspiration will help. Who does really good work in B+W/film?
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May 10, 2016 03:21
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Just go out there and take lots of pictures, then develop them, then take lots more pictures, then repeat
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May 10, 2016 03:37
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Just shoot. You'll figure out what works in black and white and what doesn't.
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May 10, 2016 03:40
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Buy 10 rolls of B&W film and shoot that up. I exclusively shot Tri-X for years, it's easy after a while .
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May 10, 2016 03:56
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