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Der Penguingott posted:It's 10$ cheaper /bag than Maris Otter has has 100% less snails in it. Snails for umami.
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May 5, 2016 23:50
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robotsinmyhead posted:Snails for umami. Snail tail pale ale? Edit: it appears somebody beat me to it. http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/2699/snail-trail-ale Der Penguingott fucked around with this message at 23:55 on May 5, 2016 |
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May 5, 2016 23:52
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Alright wort is chilling on the new farmhouse sour. I kegged the first batch and now it's clarifying with gelatin for a few days before I charge it and begin the drinking. Im excited to begin the drinking.
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May 6, 2016 01:15
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Drunk Nerds posted:So I don't need to worry about the extract scorching if I add it at about 170? Awesome, thanks! Which is why I like to recommend How to Brew by John Palmer. It does a good job explaining the steps that you'll need and is basically the same as that howtobrew.com site. The benefit being you can write in a book and take it and set it on your countertop without worrying about splashing hot wort on it and ruining a laptop or tablet. Aeration is a detail, just like adding a clarifier, or fining with gelatin and cold crashing. These are details and steps that are not required, but help you make a better product. If you're expecting to follow a two-sheet recipe to brew beer, you can, but I'd recommend doing a little more reading to make your life easier while brewing. The more knowledge you have, the better the chance you can make a good beer. LaserWash posted:FWIW, the 3x10 pound bags of 2 row from Amazon was advertised as being Briess. The malt came in the mail today and it was 3 bags of Great Western 2-row. That's the only pale 2-row I'm familiar with. I'm glad to know that I'm spoiled.
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May 6, 2016 04:13
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Der Penguingott posted:That is a wonderful surprise. GW makes really great stuff. The NW pale malt is becoming my go-to base malt for anything that doesn't take pils. I use GW PNW PA for anything not specifically English, but I still use MO, snails and all, for Englishy stuff - it just has a more suitable flavor for that use, IMO, that the American stuff can't quite pull off.
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May 6, 2016 15:45
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I had 25,000 unread posts on this thread, so I just skipped to the end. Apologies if I repeat something that was recently covered. I've been out of the game for almost two years and I'm looking to get back in. I'd been saving for a new kettle and never turned off the automatic withdrawals, so I have a pretty sizable budget I'm willing to spend on equipment. I'd like to get some sort of brewstand (preferably with wheels if it's a big motherfucker) and a RIMS setup - basically I want to streamline the process to make setting up and breaking down as efficient as possible. (I love long, double-batch brewdays, but it's the beginning and end that piss me off most.) I'm imagining a two-burner setup with one pump to move poo poo around. I have a keg I can use as my mash tun that's already drilled, so it'll be easy to hook up to a RIMS tube, though I might get a second dedicated pump for it just for convenience. Depending on how much things cost. I did some really basic research on Amazon before I realized I should just come here and ask, because this thread was always such a baller resource for poo poo like this that you'd only know if you were following developments in hobby pretty closely. I liked this stand because it has really great reviews from a lot of homebrewers, it's reasonably priced, and can hold two 30 gallon pots. But I'm totally happy to be talked out of it if there's something better (I'm not wild about the jet burner and would probably modify it to a regular banjo if possible). I have very little technical ability to DIY any of the electronics poo poo or TIG weld a Brutus stand myself, so the less I'm required to do, the less chance I have of loving something up. Anyway, hello again.
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May 6, 2016 17:28
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If DIY is not in the cards for you, have you considered one of the prefab RIMS/HERMS systems out there? Or have you looked at self-contained units like Braumeister or Grainfather?
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May 6, 2016 17:44
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I saw the Grainfather; that looked close to what I want initially, but I don't want to be married to the one setup, batch size, etc. after shelling out nearly a grand. I'd like to be able to scale and customize as I go along. A couple of the Ruby Rod (or whatever) stands looks pretty good, but they're all three-burner, and most of their setups come with three kettles/two pumps/etc. all included, which I don't want or need. Also I said I have a pretty decent budget, but $1900 for just the frame and burners seems really overpriced and removes a lot of my flexibility for the rest of what I want to do.
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May 6, 2016 17:54
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If you want to start with just the stand, Morebeer has the BrewBuilt Afterburner, which is a pretty slick-looking stainless single burner. They also sell a kit to gang them together, plus a wheel kit and a handle you can bolt on the other end. I was looking at those myself, but Morebeer says they can't be converted to natural gas, which is one of my current goals. I think they are wrong, but I'm not willing to drop hundreds of dollars on that particular experiment right now.
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May 6, 2016 17:57
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Jo3sh posted:If you want to start with just the stand, Morebeer has the BrewBuilt Afterburner, which is a pretty slick-looking stainless single burner. They also sell a kit to gang them together, plus a wheel kit and a handle you can bolt on the other end. I was looking at those myself, but Morebeer says they can't be converted to natural gas, which is one of my current goals. I think they are wrong, but I'm not willing to drop hundreds of dollars on that particular experiment right now. drat, and you can add handles/wheels to it? And they sell a bracket to connect a pump? That's awesome, basically exactly what I'm looking for as far as the basic setup goes. Thanks! e: whoa and the BrewBuilt kettles have internal volume markers. That poo poo is genius and would be insanely useful. Might have to get a new boiler indigi fucked around with this message at 18:18 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 18:11
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No prob, glad to help. edit: check out Chapman equipment, too. I just got one of their fermenters, and it has pressed volume markings on the inside. I haven't looked at their kettles, but they do have some nice things over there. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 18:22 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 18:18
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Jo3sh posted:No prob, glad to help. Seconding Chapman. I got the 15 gallon mash tun from the Kickstarter and it owns.
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May 6, 2016 18:26
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Oh wow, they're making stainless steel fermenters now. That's crazy. When I drifted away the only SS fermenters were those 15 gallon conical jawns. I saw on one of the sites that you can get a plastic 7.9 gal conical for a reasonable price; anyone have a trip report for that? Seems really convenient to harvest/reuse yeast and get rid of trub. e: are March pumps still the only good pumps, or did the Chuggers improve their quality/consistency? indigi fucked around with this message at 18:36 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 18:32
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Bottled the "Grodziskie / maybe hot dog beer" last night. I'm gonna call it. . .. ... Cloudy With a Chance of Hotdogs 
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May 6, 2016 18:39
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Speaking of hot dogs, I have some mason jars with 2-3 year old harvested yeast sitting in the back of my brewing/beer fridge. I am anxious about emptying them cause of autolysis 
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May 6, 2016 18:44
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If it's that bad just toss the masons lid and all.
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May 6, 2016 18:48
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Mason jars are cheap - even regular price, they are like $15/dz. - and I've seen them as low as $9/dz. for pint size.
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May 6, 2016 18:51
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I've had lots of yeast sit in my fridge long enough that I wouldn't use it (and one time I made a starter for it), and it's never been so gross that I had to throw away the jar. I'll toss the lids at any sign of nastiness, though.
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May 6, 2016 18:59
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Got some free honey from my beekeeping coworker and looking to make my first braggot this weekend. I havent found a ton of recipes to go off of but here is what I am planning on trying to make: 5 gallon batch: 4 lbs wildflower honey 1 lb 20L crystal malt 1 oz fuggles hops .5 oz chinook finishing hops 1 tsp irish moss Danstar windosr ale yeast Does that look wildly off at all? This is the first time I'm trying to come up with my own recipe so I'm out of my element for sure.
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May 6, 2016 19:13
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I'd use some base malt as well, and not add any honey until flameout or later. I wrote this while back, it should have some helpful process notes, but I can't remember really http://www.homebrewtalk.com/marriage-of-beer-and-mead-braggots.html
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May 6, 2016 19:25
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I'd use some base malt as well, and not add any honey until flameout or later. Great thanks for the link! I might go with your extract recipe as a base, up the honey to 4 pounds and see what it taste like with the fuggle and chinook hops.
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May 6, 2016 19:40
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BaseballPCHiker posted:This is the first time I'm trying to come up with my own recipe so I'm out of my element for sure. It looks fine (definitely add some base malt like Marsh suggested), although with only 4lbs of honey as the fermentables it's gonna be a table braggot, something like 2.5-3% abv.
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May 6, 2016 19:46
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indigi posted:It looks fine (definitely add some base malt like Marsh suggested), although with only 4lbs of honey as the fermentables it's gonna be a table braggot, something like 2.5-3% abv. Good to know. I'll add some two-row as a base I think. I kept it at 4 lbs because I had read that higher honey volumes lead to what some people called a "rocket fuel" taste and high alcohol. Ideally I think I'd want to be around 5-6%abv. I'll see if I can get some more honey and maybe up it to 5-6 lbs.
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May 6, 2016 19:52
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Oh, that reminds me - honey doesn't have nutrients for yeast the way grain does, so you'll want to add some nutrient and/or pitch a bit more than you would for a comparable beer. Stressed yeast can lead to some rocket fuel flavors. A couple pounds of two-row might have all the nutrients you need, but I don't think overpitching would negatively impact the flavor.
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May 6, 2016 19:59
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indigi posted:Oh wow, they're making stainless steel fermenters now. That's crazy. When I drifted away the only SS fermenters were those 15 gallon conical jawns. Those fast ferments you're talking about get bad reviews. Apparently the threads on everything strip/get cross threaded very easily and once it does, the unit is ruined. I'd look at the SS Brewtech Brew Bucket or the Chapman ferementers if you want stainless. Both are made very well and people in here have them.
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May 6, 2016 21:34
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Jhet posted:Which is why I like to recommend How to Brew by John Palmer. It does a good job explaining the steps that you'll need and is basically the same as that howtobrew.com site. The benefit being you can write in a book and take it and set it on your countertop without worrying about splashing hot wort on it and ruining a laptop or tablet. Hey, thanks, I'll check that out for sure. I guess I do have a lot of "details" that I aren't really mandatory: Yeast rehydration, cold crashing with gelatin, swamp cooler, etc. I just want super-awesome crystal clear beer and a recipe that has a huge number of little steps.
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May 7, 2016 04:37
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Drunk Nerds posted:Hey, thanks, I'll check that out for sure. You can definitely have a recipe with a bunch of little steps, but you'll have to do some legwork to really get a good procedure plan set. Make a checklist for yourself, because even the most thorough recipe is going to miss steps that you want to include. Add everything you can possibly think of and then order it for yourself. Then when you get your recipe, you can insert the few steps into the long steps and you won't miss things. It's a great way to learn what your process needs to be, and a good way to create good habits for brewing. There is absolutely nothing wrong with paying attention to details, but you're the one who's really going to need to decide which details are important to you and your process. It's just going to require some learning and practice. The best part is, you get to drink the practice.
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May 7, 2016 06:08
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rockcity posted:Those fast ferments you're talking about get bad reviews. Apparently the threads on everything strip/get cross threaded very easily and once it does, the unit is ruined. I'd look at the SS Brewtech Brew Bucket or the Chapman ferementers if you want stainless. Both are made very well and people in here have them. Thanks! That's a $100+ mistake I won't be making then Anyone know where to buy a RIMS tube/tube kit OR an insanely detailed, idiot-proof guide to assembling one for dumbshits who know very little about electronics? e: I can find just the enclosure in a few places, but they all come with apocalyptic warnings about how if a professional electrician doesn't install the heating element you will electrocute yourself and die, definitely. Just sell the whole thing as a unit, then!! indigi fucked around with this message at 16:04 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 15:43
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indigi posted:Thanks! That's a $100+ mistake I won't be making then http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/blichmann-rims-rocket/blichmann-electric-brewing Brewershardware makes one that is prettier but requires assembly. My dipa with Omega's Conan seems to have pooped out at 71-72% attenuation. Sorta disappointed it is stuck at 1.026-28... It tastes fantastic, just not so dry... Oh well. Grain bill was 64.5% NW pale 19.4% Vienna 9.7% table sugar 3.2% red wheat 3.2% carapils Wonder if the Vienna was too much? It was an impulse to toss it in. It is an odd combination of old-school malty IPA with tropical fruit/apricot. Der Penguingott fucked around with this message at 18:29 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 17:35
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Der Penguingott posted:http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/blichmann-rims-rocket/blichmann-electric-brewing Word. It looks like the easiest way to go about setting up a plug and play RIMS system is: 1 x Blichmann RIMS Rocket 120V - $145 1 x Temperature sensor adapter - ~$35 (although even I plan to knock this together at a local hardware store for $10-15 bucks, it's very basic) 1 x PID Temperature Controller, Sous Vide temperature controller, or similar. (I've linked two Auber models because that's the most recommended brand) - $30-150, depending on how crazy you feel like getting. Should be able to get it done for under $300 bucks, which is great. I'm lightweight considering getting the 240V model so I can do step mashes and mash out without having to add any water - I've seen some people say the 120V is great for maintaining temperature but can take quite a while to raise the temperature by any significant amount - but that isn't really a big problem because I usually prefer a thicker mash anyway. If anyone ees anything I'm missing or glaring flaws with my planned setup, please let me know! Like I've said - I suck at this sort of thing. And Der Penguingott - what was the starting gravity, what mash temp/yeast did you use? Vienna has a high diastatic power, so I don't think that impacted your fermentability at all. I don't see a problem with that grain bill. In the end, if it tastes good, gently caress it - don't worry too much.
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May 7, 2016 18:54
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Der Penguingott posted:http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/blichmann-rims-rocket/blichmann-electric-brewing I had forgotten about the RIMSRocket, thanks for posting that.
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May 7, 2016 18:56
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indigi posted:1 x Blichmann RIMS Rocket 120V - $145 Just to point out, that's the conversion kit, which assumes you already have a Hop Rocket. If you don't, it's $265.
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May 7, 2016 19:03
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indigi posted:
Starter was a stepped starter of Omega's version of conan. I pitched it at 1.0m/ml/P, used yeast nutrient and O2. It was a ton of yeast and was very healthy so i don't think that was the problem. Actual OG 1.091. FG is 1.026ish. It has a TON of particulate matter from the hops. Beer has been renamed to "Green Goo". Full recipe: BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: 2xIPA Brewer: Dan Asst Brewer: Style: Double IPA TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 13.83 gal Post Boil Volume: 11.70 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 11.00 gal Bottling Volume: 10.00 gal Estimated OG: 1.092 SG Estimated Color: 7.1 SRM Estimated IBU: 115.8 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 86.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 88.3 % Boil Time: 90 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 20 lbs Pale Ale Malt, Northwestern (Great Weste Grain 1 64.5 % 6 lbs Vienna Malt (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 2 19.4 % 1 lbs Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) Grain 3 3.2 % 1 lbs Wheat - Red Malt (Briess) (2.3 SRM) Grain 4 3.2 % 3 lbs Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 5 9.7 % 5.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 6 13.4 IBUs 8.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 30.0 Hop 7 49.5 IBUs 4.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 8 20.6 IBUs 4.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 60.0 Hop 9 32.2 IBUs 1.0 pkg Vermont IPA (Omega Yeast #) [124.21 ml] Yeast 10 - 4.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 11 0.0 IBUs 4.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, No Mash Out Total Grain Weight: 31 lbs ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Mash In Add 39.00 qt of water at 163.1 F 150.0 F 75 min Sparge: Fly sparge with 8.44 gal water at 168.0 F It smells and tastes like a peach pina colada. So i guess i should be happy and drink it? Der Penguingott fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 19:11
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Jo3sh posted:Just to point out, that's the conversion kit, which assumes you already have a Hop Rocket. If you don't, it's $265.
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May 7, 2016 19:21
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Der Penguingott posted:http://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/blichmann-rims-rocket/blichmann-electric-brewing Doubt it was the Vienna, it's a base malt. People have done 100% Vienna beers. I brewed a really similar DIPA two weeks ago that I am kegging tomorrow, mine went down to 1.011 from 1.073. I had a similar result on my first DIPA last year with that same yeast. This time it was a second generation pitch, which I think might be key. I did a pretty healthy two stage starter too and hit it with a minute of pure O2. Here is my recipe. 11 lbs Belgian Pale Ale 3 lbs Vienna 1 lb Flaked Oats 12 oz Carapils 4 oz Carared 1 lb Corn Sugar 1 oz Nugget at 60 min 3 oz Amarillo at whirlpool (15 min) 3 oz Mosaic at whirlpool (15 min) 2 oz Amarillo dry hop 2oz Mosaic dry hop
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May 7, 2016 20:01
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Measured fg on the second keg, 1.022. About 75% attenuation. I can live with that. Perhaps I didn't degas the first measurement as well. It tasted exactly the same as the first sample.
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May 7, 2016 20:48
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Man I knew how wort chillers worked and all from watching a ton of Youtube homebrewing videos, but I just got one this week and tried it out today on a batch of APA. This poo poo is loving magic. Edit: fuuuuck yes, I nailed my OG... even got a tiny bit higher than expected. After two failed brews and another one that remains to be seen after a crack open a bottle in a week or so (but I'm not optimistic about since the FG was far too high), it feels -so damned good- to have a brew day that goes off perfectly. There was only one fuckup, but in the end I think it helped me out more than it hindered me (I accidentally doubled my amber and wheat DME amounts, but I think that wasn't that bad considering the amounts weren't huge to begin with). Especially since this is a recipe that I scaled using BeerSmith, which I'm not entirely proficient at yet. It feels damned good to be fairly sure this is going to be the first beer I've made that will turn out well. Here's the recipe I'm using (posted a while ago but I think I've tweaked it a bit since then?): 0.4 kg Melanoiden malt (steeping 30 minutes at around 66°C) 1.5 kg light DME 0.2 kg amber DME (I accidentally used 0.4 kg) 0.2 kg wheat DME (I accidentally used 0.4 kg) 18 g Centennial 9.4% @ 60 1/2 tsp Irish Moss @ 15 5 g Centennial 9.4% @ 10 5 g Cascade 6% @ 10 5 g Centennial 9.4% @ 0 5 g Cascade 6% @ 0 (Accidentally used 7 g, no big deal) 1 pkg Safale US-05 Boil size: 16 liters Into fermenter: ~12.5 liters Est. OG: 1.055 (1.065 if you account for the extra DME) Act. OG: 1.058 Est. FG: 1.013 Est. ABV: 5.5% (between 6.5% and 6.8% if you account for extra DME) So the result of my minor too-much-amber-and-wheat-DME fuckup will likely just be a very slightly darker beer with a slightly higher ABV, both of which will push me to the limits of the APA style guidelines. That'd bring me into what, IPA territory? Both BeerSmith and Brewer's Friend are estimating my OG at 1.065 or so, which is just outside of APA range. But my actual measured OG is below that threshold, so I assume I'm still good! Drone fucked around with this message at 12:56 on May 8, 2016 |
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May 8, 2016 11:43
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Drone posted:Man I knew how wort chillers worked and all from watching a ton of Youtube homebrewing videos, but I just got one this week and tried it out today on a batch of APA. This poo poo is loving magic. How did I live without... A wort chiller A large kettle Kegging and the prerequisite keezer A lager fridge A grain mill Starter plate A freezer with enough hops for a small country A mash tun Upgrading to a 5 pound CO2 tank Nope, not big enough. I need a 20 pound 
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May 8, 2016 20:25
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So I brewed a second attempt at a Kronenbourg Blanc clone, as my first attempt using Pilsner was only a 60 minute boil and seemed to have some of that Corny flavor in it, and lacked the orange flavor after fermentation, despite using the zest of six oranges. This time I added concentrated orange juice to the keg, as per this recipe Do Not loving Do This. I essentially have alcoholic carbonated orange juice now. Best case is I drain 1/4 of the keg, and add grapefruit/lemon juice and end up with a radler.
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May 8, 2016 20:32
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JawKnee posted:I essentially have alcoholic carbonated orange juice now. Best case is I drain 1/4 of the keg, and add grapefruit/lemon juice and end up with a radler. So you kegged a mimosa? It may not be quite beer, but does it taste good? The idea of a kegged mimosa just sounds... dangerous to me. 
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May 8, 2016 21:00
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