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Cameraphones are great for really quick impromptu shots but they struggle mightily with the macro stuff I do, and no manual focus means you kind of settle for "mostly focused" 'cause of course it'd rather focus on the anvil. And yeah, it's a real anvil, albeit an absurdly tiny one. I don't use it for much, mostly riveting in the pritchel hole, and the horns are useful for small stuff if you set it in a vise, but yeah an anvil that weighs less than almost all of your hammer-heads just isn't gonna get much use
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Apr 29, 2016 17:43
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DreadLlama posted:I mean, how does a copper pipe with some holes drilled in it sound for a backside shieldgas source? Cardboard and masking tape is the standard I've seen. Tape it across the inside of the corner you want to weld, poke a hole in the cardboard and stick your argon tube through that. Even the slightest trickle should be enough to keep the atmosphere on the backside inert. It sounds scabby but it only needs to last the few seconds it takes to do your first pass (in your case, the only pass). Just make the cardboard big enough to keep the legs away from the weld and leave a little hole at the top corner. Wait for everything to cool before you tear it off to avoid discoloring the stainless.
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Apr 30, 2016 14:14
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That's goddamn genius.
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May 1, 2016 01:44
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My copy of Machining and CNC Technology finally arrived, via what I'm assuming was pack mule, and it's pretty great to have a more focused companion to Machinery's Handbook. As a bonus, the prior owner inadvertantly gifted me a 6" Mitutoyo rule so I've already recouped the $6 cost of the text 
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May 3, 2016 02:54
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Guess who just bought an old metal spinning lathe and disc cutting machine???? This guy! 6" swing over bed, which is plenty for my needs. The bed is a little short, so I will have to build an extension when I make the table for it. Leather belt drive. Runs on 110v. The spindle threads seem to be about 1-5/8" - 10tpi. Photos to come when I pick it up and start getting it running.
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May 4, 2016 22:47
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nice the only lathe i've put time into is an old wartime south bend with a flat belt, it's what i'm used to, so when I look at machine tools I kind of pass over anything too modern that won't save my rear end via belt slippage if i goof up real bad
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May 5, 2016 00:20
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Brekelefuw posted:Speaking of incredible rings, here is one by Minoru Gotta This thing is incredibly impressive on a technical level, but honestly I think it's hideously ugly from an aesthetic standpoint. It looks like a garish piece of painted plastic. The rings you wove are gorgeous and I'd far rather have something like that. And by the way, did I hear you right that you melted and spun your own gold wire? Why not just buy it?
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May 5, 2016 00:31
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Leperflesh posted:This thing is incredibly impressive on a technical level, but honestly I think it's hideously ugly from an aesthetic standpoint. It looks like a garish piece of painted plastic. The rings you wove are gorgeous and I'd far rather have something like that. I assume the gold wire thing was directed at me. I have a jeweler friend that usually draws my silver wire. I did it a couple of times just so I can say I know that process as well. As for the gold wire, I wanted to do it myself (under his supervision) as the wedding rings were a very personal thing (obviously) and I wanted to be able to say I did it all by myself, start to finish. Also, the friend gave me a discount on the raw gold so there was that. I was a part of the alloying process as we discussed yellow gold color tones and I got to actually measure the silver and (IIRC) nickel that was put in, then melt it down. After that, I drew it down to three 0.3mm strands, which I then twisted into the rope you see used. All in all, a nice process, which I fondly remember.
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May 5, 2016 08:23
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Got an old cement mixer for 100 bucks, felt like a solid machine, 3-phase motor which is nice, a bit dirty though and the handle to swivel the tombola had broken off, so I got a practical welding application, yay!   I'm satisfied with the results, not as pretty as I had hoped but I did all the proper pre-prep and ground angles / v-grooves on the mating surfaces for penetration etc etc... So it should hold. Painted it over and looks perfectly serviceable then.
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May 7, 2016 20:09
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You have outdone some of the allegedly professional welders I have met. You did good.
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May 7, 2016 21:09
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ductonius posted:You have outdone some of the allegedly professional welders at the factory Looks better than a lot of gym/ikea equipment.
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May 7, 2016 21:53
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That is a nice weld. Good work!
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May 7, 2016 23:12
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Thanks guys!
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May 8, 2016 06:23
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I'm going to need to build a bench for my spinning lathe once I pick it up next week. Anyone got any tips on building a nice heavy duty bench? I was thinking I might use 4x4 or maybe even 6x6 pressure treated lumber for it.
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May 9, 2016 23:45
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4x4's sound about right to me, 6x6's seem like overkill, but if you got em, smoke em! Bolting it to the floor and/or wall will be a definite plus.
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May 10, 2016 00:19
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If I were interested in a very light power/treadle hammer- like, doing squaring-up and very simple forging on 1/8" CP2 titanium round rod both hot and cold- what are my options? Most all plans and resources out there assume full-scale work, and it's a weird enough niche that I don't expect any commercial offerings. I've never used a pneumatic planishing hammer but I'm assuming they hit too soft to be of much use. Similarly, I want to make a twisting jig for said squared-up 1/8" stock. A mini lathe with the chuck turned by hand would be divine for this, but it ain't in the budget. Anybody point me in the direction of some good full-size twisting jig designs I can scale down?
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May 10, 2016 19:47
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It should be fairly easy to take the tire power hammer and scale it down to size using a lawn tractor tire. For your bending jig, I envision some square tubing with a couple pieces of metal welded to each side, one side with a fixed Jacobs chuck and the other side with another Jacobs chuck and a crank. Since you are making square stock, you'd want to leave the two ends of your rod round, assuming you go with drill chucks. Edit: Instead of welding the fixed chuck on, you could rig it up so it can be moved and clamped like a real tailstock. That said, if you don't plan on making lots of adjustments, you can go simple and cut the weld, move it, and reweld. That'd be a good experiment on figuring out the minimal amount of weld you need and where to put it to easily cut it off. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 21:39 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 19:56
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Miniaturizing a tire hammer is... pretty dang smart, actually. Might be a bit advanced for me rn (my complex has-multiple-components fabrication experience is extremely limited and I'd be creating plans from scratch), but it's a good place to start. And yeah, that feels like the easiest way to do the twisting jig. I'd probably wizard up a workholding bit to replace one of the chucks because one of the part ends is just a flat taper that's chuck-incompatible but really easy to accommodate with a simple slotted tool, and I'm hot-twisting so the Jacobs chuck won't have to actually grip particularly securely and can prolly get away with holding square stock with three jaws. Leaving the ends round isn't possible because I'm squaring the stock up first. now that I'm thinking of it, I could appropriate a high-torque/low speed electric drill or hand brace and use that as one entire half of the jig, just make a socket that the chuck will seat into to automatically center it against the fixed slotted workholding tool at the other end. The forces involved with hot-twisting stock this small are low enough that I can probably get away with it, and it'd let me swap work in and out of the jig much faster to boot.
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May 10, 2016 21:37
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-b8JKk_Q0Fo&list=PLR9c5GO30xvk-UBgD9hb2LhuOVSjZgAzQ That youtube playlist has lots of different homemade designs that may give you further inspiration.
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May 10, 2016 21:45
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What's a good way to get rid of the rust from a buncha angle iron beams? I used an angle grinder and steel wire brush but it was slow going and dusty and dirty as hell. Then I tried rust remover but it just runs off, I would need to immerse them to get that to work but the beams are almost 6' long, don't have that much remover or a big enough container, which also prevents electrolysis as a method. I have a sandblasting gun somewhere, kinda lovely and a compressor that's on the small side of things. I have a small high pressure washer, been reading about wet sand blasting using a washer but haven't found anything for my little Stihl (230v). Another idea is using a rust remover in jelly form so I could smear it on, but those are uncommon here. A compressor driven needle scaler looks interesting option too, a cheapo model is cheaper than 1qt of gel type rust remover. Might come in handy when I'll be going under my car and removing some rust this summer. Leaning scaler right now...
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May 13, 2016 06:48
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Go the needle scaler if you've got the air supply, sand blasting is not exactly a fun experience with a small compressor, lots of dust, long waits for the compressor to run up and not much actual work done. Rust remover is usually fine for small patches, but if you've got lot to do then it takes forever and needs a bit of prep work to do a really good job of it. Mechanical methods (wire wheel, sand blasting, needle gun etc) tend to be a lot better at bulk rust removal on anything heavier than sheet metal, especially at a smaller scale. If you had a large enough tank you could give electrolytic rust removal a go too, if you've got a lot to do that seems workable if you have access to a tank, sufficient amounts of baking soda and power to spare, that or a really big jar of molasses would do it.
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May 13, 2016 09:01
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Build a trough with polythene sheet, fill with the cheapest catering jugs of vinegar you can find, soak for a day or two. It will just wipe off. Save the rusty vinegar, it's good for multiple goes.
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May 13, 2016 09:22
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How bad is the rust? The needle scaler is good for flaky rust and will get rust out of pitting, but no good for surface rust, and will be no quicker than the grinder. They are also good for getting slag off welds.
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May 13, 2016 11:26
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Lots of flaky rust and pitting. I am not that bothered about fine rust, I'll just paint over it with some rustoleum like paint and call it a day.
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May 13, 2016 11:49
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-b8JKk_Q0Fo&list=PLR9c5GO30xvk-UBgD9hb2LhuOVSjZgAzQ Dammit. Because I need another metalworking hobby like I need a hole in the head...
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May 13, 2016 14:17
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A good knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder is usually the fastest for me. Needle scaler is obnoxious, loud as hell, risk of VWF, and makes the metal look like it has acne. And no faster than the wire wheel.
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May 13, 2016 21:01
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I guess this probably fits in here. Finished my pre-employment machinist course today. Pictured are some of the projects I made. Some useful, most not. Now the job hunting begins.
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May 13, 2016 21:25
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Sedgr posted:I guess this probably fits in here. Finished my pre-employment machinist course today. Pictured are some of the projects I made. Some useful, most not. Now the job hunting begins. Are those square threads??
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May 13, 2016 21:30
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Far right shaft, bottom thread? Acme thread.
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May 13, 2016 21:43
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Sedgr posted:I guess this probably fits in here. Finished my pre-employment machinist course today. Pictured are some of the projects I made. Some useful, most not. Now the job hunting begins. That looks awesome! I wish I had the time to learn your skill level. I'm still just a novice despite the tool collection.
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May 17, 2016 22:24
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Got my metal spinning lathe today!  Needs some cleanup and a cross slide, but that's all doable. First up is designing the bench and bed extension and taking the motor to a motor repair place to get wired with modern wires (so it has a ground and no marrettes holding things together.) I also have to find a good leather belt for it. I also got this sweet disc cutter.  The throat depth is about 18". Much bigger than I need, but bigger is better! I think I might hit the lathe with some rust remover and degreaser and then throw a coat of paint on it as well. It is 100 years old, and the ways and bearings are in great condition.
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May 17, 2016 22:39
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Might remember I talked about how to do this a while ago. Well I decided to weld it, I made the table from three pieces and drilled 6 holes in the bottom that I then plug welded, I just used a straight 12mm piece to provide spacing for the bar, then I clamped it all down to a sturdy metal surface and tacked it together. No distortion issues.  Now to make some jigs.
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May 19, 2016 19:58
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Brekelefuw posted:I'm going to need to build a bench for my spinning lathe once I pick it up next week. If you can find them cheaply, stamped machinist table legs and 2x4's arranged butcher block style is what I use for my little 9" SB. Once it was all glued together, I bolted it width wise and to the machinists legs with bolts and all-thread. After it was all bolted together, I used an electric planer to get it as flat as I could and coated it with (I think) spar urethane. That old southbend pisses oil everywhere and hasn't seemed to have gotten through it in 7-8 years. Edit: the only thing it's not great for is that atlas shaper next to the SB. The whole table likes to rock slightly. I'm guessing if I ever bothered to bolt the legs into the concrete it wouldn't do that.     Bonus new chuck I just mounted up last weekend: 
Pimblor fucked around with this message at 14:50 on May 20, 2016 |
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May 20, 2016 14:44
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Found a cross slide and tool rest that I should be able to relatively easily convert in to a metal spinning tool rest. I didn't expect to have such an easy time, but a local tool store just happened to have an old one that has been there forever that didn't have a lathe attached to it. Snapped it up, and I will do all the measurements to fit it on my lathe next weekend.
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May 20, 2016 22:39
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If you guys haven't been watching Iron and Fire on the "History" channel, you need to. Definitely watch it from the beginning. The show is basically about this one guy, he's an absolute master crafstman when it comes to making reproduction firearms and restoring old firearms, but he also does a fair bit of knifemaking and other blacksmithery. He's very soft-spoken and philosophical, he has an amazing attitude towards life, and the entire show is infused with that very special and unique flavor of Appalachian hillbilly. In other news, Kevbarlas over in AI made his dad a matched set of gardening knives. This is his first shot at making knives. Purely stock-removal, there's no smithing, but still.    Everyone who reads this thread should have his thread subscribed anyway.
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May 21, 2016 01:15
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That threads a good read. Imagine what Kev and Slung Blade working together could achieve.
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May 22, 2016 09:40
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Hey look how lovely some of my first welds ever are!  
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May 23, 2016 23:46
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A grinder and paint make me the welder I aint.
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May 24, 2016 00:01
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Have some more! 
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May 24, 2016 00:24
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Pretty sure everyone's first try looks something like that. Some local "welders" never advance beyond that "style" either... I need to practice more, I just haven't had need to weld recently. I find the hardest part is keeping the arc distance even, especially as I primarily do stick welding. Keeping an even arc on an ever shortening hand tool while trying simultaneously to draw an even bead in another axis takes some co-ordination. I liken it to learning to fly an RC helicopter in terms of learning curve.
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May 24, 2016 12:31
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