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KARMA! posted:Or don't screw in the filter like a goddamn ape. You know who you are (I've only ever has to replace two filters, both came out fine with the ol' hand crank). As a goddamn ape, I don't know any other way to install oil filters  Purolator One from Purolator has a fully painted exterior that's grippy as hell, their synthetic filters seem to have them too.
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May 2, 2016 12:40
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| # ? May 13, 2024 23:23 |
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KARMA! posted:Or don't screw in the filter like a goddamn ape. You know who you are (I've only ever has to replace two filters, both came out fine with the ol' hand crank). Doesn't apply in the case of new-to-you used bikes because of the loving PO.  I swear in every used bike or car I've ever purchased that the prior owner (or their resident grease monkey) decided that the freaking oil filter needs to be seated at 79 ft-lbs.
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May 2, 2016 12:45
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Yeah that was the case with my ninja 300. Torqued on so tight that I stabbed it with a screwdriver  In retrospect I should have just used some big channel locks
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May 2, 2016 12:59
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The PO on my ZRX treated it like a God drat princess and that's half the reason I bought it.  God bless old men who cope with their Empty Nest Syndrome by pampering pretty vehicles, just riding them enough to keep them healthy.
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May 2, 2016 13:41
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The k&n ones have the big hex head on the end (drilled for safety wire too!), it's pretty great. Failing that, $3 strap wrench from HF.
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May 2, 2016 13:49
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Seriously, has nobody ever heard of a strap wrench?
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May 2, 2016 14:01
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I've seen quite a lot of filters that are located so badly or are so tight even a strap wrench won't work. Even a metal strap wrench, which we have at the shop.
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May 2, 2016 14:31
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I always used a pair of oil filter pliers, kindof a big wide set of pliers with a couple kinks in it that give you the leverage to slightly crush the filter and turn it. I used to religiously follow the manual directions that were like "filter makes contact plus one quarter turn" and they end up welded on so I just screw them on like a bottle cap.
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May 2, 2016 15:43
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Yeah everyone should own a strap wrench and a set of oil filter pliers if they do any reasonable amount of work on bikes. They're cheap online and that 20 bucks you spend will save you quite a lot of cursing in the long run. Or you could buy a superior KTM and just strip out the M5 bolts holding the filter covers on instead! 
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May 2, 2016 16:03
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hosed with my suspension some more. Set the sag (waaaaayy more sag) and damping properly - it was set for 2-up before. Floats like a cloud over every drat thing in the road now that I am taking proper advantage of the 7" of travel, still tracks steady over every little thing like it's on a rail, too. So I rode it a couple hundred miles and loved every second of it. Then I saw two deer out near Plain and Leavenworth and got spooked so I went home US-2. After a day of riding, I think I need the turn-in to be a little quicker. Bar required more input and I kept wanting to run a little wide. Or maybe I just need to get used to how it behaves.
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May 2, 2016 16:31
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Try raising the forks in the triples (lowering the front end of the bike) 5mm at a time. A little front ride height change goes a long ways. If you notice significantly more instability, a lack of feedback midcorner, or excessive deflection over bumps, raise it back up a bit. Your increase in rear sag has changed the geometry by letting the rear squat more, effectively raking the front end out as the bike choppers a little bit more than it did before. A small change to front ride height should bring it back into balance. I like to set my bikes up such that when I apply throttle at lean, the bike doesn't change lean angle, which tends to be a function of geometry more than anything else.
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May 2, 2016 16:50
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KARMA! posted:Or don't screw in the filter like a goddamn ape. You know who you are (I've only ever has to replace two filters, both came out fine with the ol' hand crank). The position of the filter on my hawk means that I'd have to have spider hands to be able to get more than a fingertip grip on it, so that plus the inevitable oil coating makes it nigh impossible to remove by hand even when it's not overtightened. It's the first vehicle I've had where that's been an issue. I should really just buy a strap wrench.
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May 2, 2016 16:51
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Sagebrush posted:The position of the filter on my hawk means that I'd have to have spider hands to be able to get more than a fingertip grip on it, so that plus the inevitable oil coating makes it nigh impossible to remove by hand even when it's not overtightened. It's the first vehicle I've had where that's been an issue. I've had limited success with a belt in the past.
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May 2, 2016 16:54
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Z3n posted:Try raising the forks in the triples (lowering the front end of the bike) 5mm at a time. A little front ride height change goes a long ways. If you notice significantly more instability, a lack of feedback midcorner, or excessive deflection over bumps, raise it back up a bit. I have preload, comp, and rebound adjusters both ends so I tried to match the sag and action front to back. I'm thinking I might just dial up a little more preload on the shock next time I'm out and see how it feels, that should get the rear relatively higher and I feel like I could use a little more stiffness in back. I need to consider the load I'll be carrying to Alaska, too. A week's worth of undies, camping gear, and vittles start to add up.
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May 2, 2016 17:18
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What I didn't do with my ride today, change rear brake pads. Apparently rear brake pads sometimes take the form of youth sized offroad pants according to Xlmoto.no. With thursday being a holiday and having taken time of on friday for a 4 day weekend of riding the new pads have no chance in reaching me until after the weekend. 4 full days of riding is up to 1000km/600 miles for me usually and one of the rear pads was like 1-2mm thick only. So I'll stop by the local "we got everything under the sun but only in no-name/ own brand quality" store, biltema, and get me some cheapo pads to cure my mechanical angst of wrecking my rear brake disc.
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May 2, 2016 21:54
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Put in Dr. Pulley slider weights and also got some toilet paper on the shakedown run
Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 04:35 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 04:00
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Put the new kickstand on. Now it finally has a non-bent-to-poo poo stand that sits in the right place to push the plunger on the kickstand switch in, so that the bike doesn't cut the ignition every time I put it in gear from neutral. Remaining things to fix before I can get it legally and safely on the road: modify the original SVS gauge cluster bracket to hold the gauges up higher and fab up a backplate to protect the backside of the cluster, new headlight, front turn signals, and mirrors. Will have to use bar end mirrors (ick) until I scrape together all the rest of the parts to finally convert it to real handlebars (used SV650N riser clamps already on their way, still need the SVN upper triple, a set of superbike bars, and a new SVN clutch cable and upper brake line). So far I'm around $700 into this bike, and it starts and runs beautifully. Testing out the new kickstand to see if it was properly triggering the switch, I started it up before remembering to pull the choke on a bit. Stone cold engine, started up immediately with no choke at all. Granted it was 80F out today, but still, the engine really does purr on my cheap shitbox.
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May 3, 2016 05:52
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Today I replaced the cush-drive rubber. I also pulled the chain off and cleaned that and cleaned up all of the caked on gunk around the sprocket since the wheel was apart anyway.
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May 3, 2016 22:54
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Dog Case posted:Today I replaced the cush-drive rubber. Old cush drives feel so terrible and alarming when they are near death.
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May 3, 2016 23:22
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Old cush drives feel so terrible and alarming when they are near death. Everything feels so smooth now. The old one was probably original so only 34 years old
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May 4, 2016 00:54
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http://imgur.com/aarXSUm http://imgur.com/Cea5fn0 http://imgur.com/g0bgJdo Bad weld jobs and mot time!
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May 4, 2016 06:39
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 Changed tires. Was easy. Balancing took the longest. Avon Trailriders. Radial sporty tires with big tread blocks. Front needs new wheel bearings, which I found squirreled away in my garage. Guess I bought em thinking I'd need em. Maybe I should equip myself for pressing bearings too. Just gonna take it to the shop and pay $30 this time.
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May 5, 2016 07:36
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Sold my cbr500r today. My first bike, two crashes, and 40,000 miles. I'm sad to see it go. Pulled some parts off my vstrom and drained the chocolate milk oil. Now I'm gonna call the shop to pick it up! Yay 
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May 6, 2016 19:48
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Mounted the wheels with new front bearings. Buttoned up the bike and started working on scuffing them in. First time I've shucked and mounted a pair. Didn't seem to screw it up.
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May 6, 2016 19:50
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bought a fresh chain slider and parts to convert it from 424cc to 470cc. want that 4th gear power wheelie dammittttt
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May 6, 2016 22:07
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Last night, I was feeling restless, and my phone's battery was comfortably full, so I tore into putting the stock fender back on the MegaSV! I was able to stumble my way through most of it. Up next: Obtaining a basic understanding of how to splice the connectors (and some extra wire, the wires on the fender were cut a bit short.) clutchpuck posted:Avon Trailriders. Let me know how that goes. Considering Avon was competing with Shinko on price I've skipped over their offerings, for the most part, since I have no idea what kind of reputation they have.
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May 6, 2016 22:26
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Well the front wants to head shake a bit if I take my hands off at like 40mph. Not sure if it's the tread pattern vs aggressive rake or if I balanced them wrong. I read that complaint about the tkc70 and it's supposed to calm down after the tread wears in some on those so we'll see.
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May 7, 2016 22:36
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Finished up my oil temp gauge install. Replaced the drain plug with sensor and routed all the wiring out of the way. Even managed to do it without draining my newly changed oil! 
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May 7, 2016 22:42
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Vacuum on the fill hole?
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May 7, 2016 23:16
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Nah, just stuck my thumb over the drain hole while I quickly stuffed the sensor in place, haha. Lost like an ounce of oil, if that. Topped it up when I was done.
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May 7, 2016 23:19
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Doing a ~2k road trip next weekend, today I checked that my old soft luggage mounts on the stripple OK and replaced the front brake pads.  They're all empty, but it feels solid enough. I might not need the saddlebags but extra space for tools is always nice. The pads were pretty loving annoying because the bolt holding the pads in was tightened to  levelsgently caress this thing it is Satan. On both calipers this was a bitch to loosen up.  Old:  New:  Should have worn gloves, I have loving boxes of them. 
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May 7, 2016 23:46
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Turns out that the stator coil had a burnt/corroded wire plus the loose magnets.  Replaced the coil & rectifier, reading 14.3V now, I can live with that.
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May 8, 2016 21:11
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I spent this weekend taking the carbs off the gs500, replaced the 112 jets with with some 125 jets on the mains. Cleaned the idle jets. Put the carbs back in and replaced all the fuels lines and tried to cranked it ...and fuel is flooding out the carbs into the airbox. I guess the floats need to be adjusted again.
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May 9, 2016 00:58
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Is there a reason for jumping from 112 to 125
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May 9, 2016 01:22
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Gotta get those power wheelies brah
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May 9, 2016 01:42
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BlackMK4 posted:Vacuum on the fill hole?
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May 9, 2016 01:44
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EX250 Type R posted:Is there a reason for jumping from 112 to 125 I believe the 112 were factory size and gs500's were jetted lean from the factory.
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May 9, 2016 01:48
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112 to 125 is a p serious jump especially without more airflow to justify the extra fuel
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May 9, 2016 04:33
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Yeah, I went from 102.5 to 100 on my mains, and the power loss was very noticeable.
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May 9, 2016 06:05
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Stick a leaf blower over the intake
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May 9, 2016 06:21
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