HP Artsandcrafts posted:I'm trying to build a budget gaming PC with a budget around $600-$700. Before I go any further I have to say I haven't put a computer together since highschool (2002) and the last new computer game I bought was Freelancer (2003). So basically I have no idea what I'm doing anymore and looking at parts makes me want to curl up into the fetal position and cry. Here is a better parts list: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI H110M PRO-D Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($48.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($32.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($61.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 380 2GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: Thermaltake SMART 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg) Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($32.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor ($119.99 @ B&H) Total: $726.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 22:20 EDT-0400 I've updated it and changed a few things. 1) First off we go for the newer Skylake platform and DDR4 RAM, the mobo is about as basic as you can get but it should do the job. 2) I switched to an SSD for storage because it makes a huge difference in the overall speed of the machine, you can pick up a 1TB HDD later on for extra space but the SSD will let you keep a decent number of games installed for now while being far, far faster. 3) I switched the video card, this one is about the same performance but is a good bit cheaper, you might want to look into getting a used GTX 970 or something instead since a lot of people are getting rid of them since new cards are coming out, for that matter you might want to wait a month or so and see what happens with AMD's new Polaris cards since they might be targeting the $200 price bracket and you might be able to get a much better card or save a lot on something just as fast if you wait a while. 4) I changed out the PSU for something much better, it has a longer warranty and is more reliable overall. 5) I added a good wireless card. 6) I added a decent monitor, it's nothing amazing but it's very good for the price.
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May 11, 2016 03:22
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I'm currently using a 3570K with an ASRock Z75 Pro3, but I'm pretty sure my mobo's dying, and I think was even faulty to begin with, though I didn't realize until relatively recently. It won't do integrated graphics at all - no output regardless of what connection I use. When I try to overclock, the UEFI won't let me set the multiplier above x38, which after some googling is apparently a sign of a faulty board? Also, the sata controller seems to be going screwy - starting in the past couple months, every so often when I'm booting up, it won't recognize drives. This is regardless of SATA port or cable, and it's always a single drive at a time (I have 3 connected) but which drive varies. There aren't a whole lot of Z75/Z77 options at this point, and I'm having some trouble deciding where to draw the line and just upgrade instead. Newegg Flash has this Intel Z77 for $99 - is that any good? But at the same time, I'm relatively close to a Microcenter and could upgrade to Skylake for I think about $300: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Micro Center) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($71.96) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.99 @ Amazon) Total: $359.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 23:19 EDT-0400 Mobo's an open box from Microcenter; if I'm understanding correctly, getting the cpu+mobo will knock off $50 total ($20 off the cpu, $30 off the mobo), and there's a $10 MIR for the mobo. But that's still $200 that I don't necessarily have to spend? I can, it's not a huge deal, I just tend to be a bit frugal. Basically, I'm curious as to your all's thoughts on whether upgrading to Skylake/Z170 is worth paying triple what I could spend to just get a replacement mobo, or if there are other motherboards that would be better than the Intel above. Usage case is mostly gaming, though I also keep telling myself I'm going to LP some games at some point 
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May 11, 2016 04:30
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Welp, it was not the motherboard that died. 
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May 11, 2016 05:05
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Hey thread! So I was doing a build and I'm dumb and put the wrong screw in the motherboard and it got kinda stuck in there. I had to use some pilers to remove it. I MAY have damaged this super super small component. It's so little I can't really tell. Sorry the picture sucks. I can barely even see it with my eyes.  I haven't had a chance to do a system install or anything, but the board POSTs fine and detects everything and everything seems OK so far. If I could find a super high-res image of this mobo (GA-Z170-UD5) I could probably compare and maybe tell if I really did smash it or not. Google image isn't giving me much; I need much higher res than the stuff I'm finding. What is this thing? A little diode? How worried should I be? Any way to find out what subsystem it may be part of? Sounds like a pain in the rear end to return the board, especially since I already did the build and the heatsink install and all that. And I'm not even sure if I broke it. But I don't want to be setting myself up for random problems down the road either. 
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May 11, 2016 05:06
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admiraldennis posted:Hey thread! No one can tell you what that component is, but if it's working fine, you probably didn't do any damage.
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May 11, 2016 05:24
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admiraldennis posted:Hey thread! Unless you're pointing to something next to it, in which case it's still probably related to the same component and the chap above me has it right.
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May 11, 2016 06:39
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Evil Fluffy posted:I think HP, Dell, and most other major PC companies have (expensive) build-a-pc options. Though if you're friends with your IT department at work you could always ask one of them for a hand. You wouldn't have a warranty but it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper. Subjunctive posted:Many local computer stores will assemble for a varying-reasonable fee. I'd sooner not go the Dell route, last time I had something like that it turned out that part of it had melted during transit. I did find this site: http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/intel-computers/ Any good? Or overpriced garbage? admiraldennis posted:What is this thing? A little diode? How worried should I be? Any way to find out what subsystem it may be part of? Sounds like a pain in the rear end to return the board, especially since I already did the build and the heatsink install and all that. And I'm not even sure if I broke it. But I don't want to be setting myself up for random problems down the road either. And see this is why I don't trust myself at all. No offence meant at all admiraldennis, but I am much to cack handed to be able to do anything like this.
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May 11, 2016 06:58
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Hmmm, a custom loop is probably not possible at that price point, especially if you want to include the video card. Here is the best I can think of: Hmm hmm. Thanks! I have an SSD and a quiet PSU, so that leaves me about $300 total headroom in my budget. Does that get me to a custom loop? (Assuming it would even be as quiet as air; I don't care about OC.) What's the general calculus on when to prefer Haswell-E over Skylake, in terms of workload? Or is Broadwell-E going to be the thing to wait on for 6-core setups? Josef bugman posted:I did find this site: http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/intel-computers/ I don't know the UK well enough to say, sorry!
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May 11, 2016 07:44
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Subjunctive posted:Hmm hmm. Thanks! You should watch this. Essentially, you shouldn't custom loop if you're on a budget. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iogqnEJBKRQ As far as anything with more than 4 cores goes, gaming doesn't really need it. Few games will even use all four cores, and even fewer can use more than 4. If you're encoding video, running VMs or something weird like that, maybe get more cores. Since, you are apparently running VMs, I guess you should ask yourself what % of the time will you be running VMs as opposed to gaming. And then ask just how many VMs or whatever you're running at once. VulgarandStupid fucked around with this message at 08:07 on May 11, 2016 |
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May 11, 2016 08:03
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Subjunctive posted:Hmm hmm. Thanks! $300 can get you a low end loop for the CPU but it won't be very quiet because you won't have the large radiators needed to run the fans at very low speeds, also you need a big case to fit a 360 or 480 rad so your small form factor goes right out the window. I went with Skylake in the quoted build partially because of cost but also because there is only one mITX X99 motherboard out there and because X99 means i7-5XXX parts, and i7-5XXX parts mean 140W of heat to dissipate and that means noise.
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May 11, 2016 08:43
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VulgarandStupid posted:You should watch this. Essentially, you shouldn't custom loop if you're on a budget. Thanks, that's really helpful; I'll pass on the loop, though it seems like a fun project at some point. I think 4C/8T will suffice for what I'm doing on this machine. AVeryLargeRadish posted:$300 can get you a low end loop for the CPU but it won't be very quiet because you won't have the large radiators needed to run the fans at very low speeds, also you need a big case to fit a 360 or 480 rad so your small form factor goes right out the window. I went with Skylake in the quoted build partially because of cost but also because there is only one mITX X99 motherboard out there and because X99 means i7-5XXX parts, and i7-5XXX parts mean 140W of heat to dissipate and that means noise. Perfect, thanks a lot for the explanation.
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May 11, 2016 14:21
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I'm planning on getting the Asus X34 Ultrawide G-Sync monitor (3440 x 1440) and a gtx 1080 when it comes out. I currently have a i7-4770k @ 3.50 ghz cpu and I was wondering if that will still be good enough when running games in much higher resolution etc. Will it be a bottleneck or is it still good enough?
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May 11, 2016 15:37
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Higher resolutions only hit the GPU harder and very few graphics settings have a significant impact on CPU load. Perhaps more importantly, your CPU is maybe 10-15% weaker than the actual best there is. Not only will you be fine, you'll be fine for the rest of the decade. You'll want to overclock it eventually, though, if you haven't already. You should be able to hit 4.5 GHz no problem. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 15:55 on May 11, 2016 |
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May 11, 2016 15:49
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Josef bugman posted:And see this is why I don't trust myself at all. No offence meant at all admiraldennis, but I am much to cack handed to be able to do anything like this. I'm a clumsy gently caress and I've dropped my heavy multi-head screwdriver on my current motherboard easily a dozen times. They're resilient things, and also one of the cheapest components to replace if you gently caress something up. Because of the complexity and difficulty identifying which miniscule thing is broken, it's also really easy to return them as DOA to your vendor. Really the CPU is the only thing that you might be stuck with if you damage it, and that's a very simple install. If you follow the guide video in the OP you'll be just fine. I can't recommend enough that you at least try to assemble your own build. If you mess something up, you can always take it to the guys you were going to have build it for you and pay them roughly the same amount to fix it. But if you don't have any comfort poking around in your case, you're going to have to go to them every time any little thing goes wrong. I can tell you from experience that is going to be a huge source of frustration for you.
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May 11, 2016 15:54
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So I did finish building my system. Components for refecence: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($99.00 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($317.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg) Total: $938.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-11 13:10 EDT-0400 Some people were interested how that all fit together in a Mini-ITX case so I made some pictures. From the front  From the back  All in all it was pretty easy to put together, only connecting the CPU fan required some long tweezers because there was no way to get my fingers in between the cooler and the external motherboard connectors. The SSDs don't seem to mind being in such a cramped space, they stay constantly below 45°C (110°F), but I could put them in the main space instead anyway if I wanted to. The whole PC is basically silent, my bathroom fan around the corner 10m away and the water pipes from the central heating radiator 3m away are both louder than the computer. peak debt fucked around with this message at 18:20 on May 11, 2016 |
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May 11, 2016 18:17
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Old PC finally kicked the bucket and isn't worth repairing, so I get to build again woo-hoo! It's been five years! Thank you so much in advance for reading this. I am very bad at this kind of thing and get scared that I'll screw up. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Web browsing, listening to music, Word and Excel, light gaming What's your budget? I'm at 852.92 with this build, I can go up to 1k but I really don't want to! If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1400x900, gonna be awhile before I can upgrade the monitor I got in 2007  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: *Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: *Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($37.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB Superclocked Video Card ($179.99 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($83.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $687.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-11 13:20 EDT-0400 For some reason it could not find the motherboard I selected from Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132575&ignorebbr=1 I imagine this will be easy since the parts are pretty much just taken from the OP but I wanted to make sure that it would fit in the case I picked, and that I won't need any extra cables or mounts or anything. I'm real bad at parsing technical info on newegg since I only ever look at hardware every 4-6 years when I buy something new, and usually none of the terms are familiar, haha.
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May 11, 2016 18:22
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What are near-idle noise levels like on gaming-capable machines these days? I don't really have the space or the budget for both a desktop and an HTPC right now, so I'm considering getting a single PC that's overkill as an HTPC but good enough to play games on once in a while—probably mostly older games, but I don't want to rule out newer stuff. My main concern is that the PC be quiet when it's being used for light tasks, especially video playback. I care less about noise during games, as long as it's not completely ridiculous. One other constraint: because of where I plan to put this PC (a relatively deep alcove built into the wall), the case's height should be under, say, a foot. I haven't decided on exact dimensions yet, but that's in the ballpark. Is what I'm hoping for possible at a reasonable price point? The last time I built a PC was in 2007, so I have no idea how much of a price and/or performance hit to expect for a quiet but capable desktop.
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May 11, 2016 18:49
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Paineopticon posted:Old PC finally kicked the bucket and isn't worth repairing, so I get to build again woo-hoo! It's been five years! Thank you so much in advance for reading this. I am very bad at this kind of thing and get scared that I'll screw up. PCPartPicker did not see the mobo because it is too big for your case, that is a full size ATX motherboard while that case is a micro ATX case. Here is a better build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($84.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($32.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 380 2GB Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.49 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($83.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Asus VC239H 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($142.98 @ Newegg) Total: $954.28 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-11 13:48 EDT-0400 1) I went with a quad-core CPU since you really want that if you can afford it and it is well within your price range. 2) This is a basic mobo but it should do everything you want it to do. 3) Some basic RAM, 8GB should be enough and the speed does not matter since you won't be overclocking. 4) I changed the video card to an R9 380, it's both faster and cheaper than the GTX 960 you had in your build, it should let you play most things at medium to high settings depending on how graphically intensive the game in question is. 5) I replaced the PSU with one that is still very high quality while also being much cheaper. 6) I added a good monitor since you seemed to want a new one and it still came within your 1k budget, feel free to take it out if you want to wait on that. Lastly I just want to say that you should look at the used market for a video card, many people are offloading their old cards right now because of the imminent release of the Geforce 10 series cards and AMD's Polaris based cards. If you buy used or wait for the new cards to come out you might be able to get something twice as fast for the same money you would pay for the 380 in the build above. Anyway, I hope that helps, good luck with your build. 
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May 11, 2016 18:57
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I'm still running a first gen i5, and with Doom dropping tomorrow, I'd like to put together a new rig that will make it look purty. I'm going to recycle my video card for the time being, as I'd rather wait for the new GTX 1070 (Obviously I'll wait until that releases before I play Doom) The CPU cooler is probably my biggest question mark. I'm expecting to do some OC'ing, but I'd like something quietish as well, so I don't mind paying a little more for it. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? ~$1500 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1920 x 1200 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.38 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($110.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($324.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX US) Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($40.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($138.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1186.07 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-11 13:53 EDT-0400
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May 11, 2016 19:01
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Anyway, I hope that helps, good luck with your build. You are my hero and that is way more feedback than I expected. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!
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May 11, 2016 19:06
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Toast Museum posted:What are near-idle noise levels like on gaming-capable machines these days? I don't really have the space or the budget for both a desktop and an HTPC right now, so I'm considering getting a single PC that's overkill as an HTPC but good enough to play games on once in a while—probably mostly older games, but I don't want to rule out newer stuff. My main concern is that the PC be quiet when it's being used for light tasks, especially video playback. I care less about noise during games, as long as it's not completely ridiculous. It's very possible to build a gaming PC that is nearly silent while also being very small for under 1k, here is a sample build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.74 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($32.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.85 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($289.99 @ NCIX US) Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $890.50 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-11 14:07 EDT-0400 This build is nice and small and should be very quiet at idle and even while gaming. The case also has plenty of room for extra HDDs if you want to expand your storage. However I will quote myself from the post above: AVeryLargeRadish posted:Lastly I just want to say that you should look at the used market for a video card, many people are offloading their old cards right now because of the imminent release of the Geforce 10 series cards and AMD's Polaris based cards. If you buy used or wait for the new cards to come out you might be able to get something twice as fast for the same money you would pay for the 380 in the build above. Replace the 380 in the quote above and it also applies to the 970 used in this build, in fact you could wait for the GTX 1070 to come out and run games pretty well at 4k while still coming in around 1k in budget, if you can wait I highly, highly recommend you do, it will pay off in the long term.
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May 11, 2016 19:13
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ControlledBurn posted:I'm still running a first gen i5, and with Doom dropping tomorrow, I'd like to put together a new rig that will make it look purty. I'm going to recycle my video card for the time being, as I'd rather wait for the new GTX 1070 (Obviously I'll wait until that releases before I play Doom) The build looks fine to me. As far as the CPU cooler goes the NH-D15 is probably overkill, but it's one of the best ones you could buy and will be extremely quiet even with a hefty overclock including a voltage boost. One thing to keep in mind is that it is a very big and heavy HSF and you should be careful moving the computer around, I remember reading about a few people who had their mobo damaged because they moved the computer and the weight of the HSF tore the motherboard, so just be careful if you ever transport the thing via car or something.
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May 11, 2016 19:22
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I think the Noctua has a mount brace thing that makes it easy to take the heatsink tower off without having to reapply thermal paste and such
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May 11, 2016 19:24
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The build looks fine to me. As far as the CPU cooler goes the NH-D15 is probably overkill, but it's one of the best ones you could buy and will be extremely quiet even with a hefty overclock including a voltage boost. One thing to keep in mind is that it is a very big and heavy HSF and you should be careful moving the computer around, I remember reading about a few people who had their mobo damaged because they moved the computer and the weight of the HSF tore the motherboard, so just be careful if you ever transport the thing via car or something. I doubt it will ever move anywhere, but good to know nonetheless.
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May 11, 2016 19:26
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fozzy fosbourne posted:I think the Noctua has a mount brace thing that makes it easy to take the heatsink tower off without having to reapply thermal paste and such Uhhh, no, I'm not sure how such a thing would even work. What it does have is a mounting system that lets you remove the tower without needing to remove the backplate and such which is pretty nice.
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May 11, 2016 19:27
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Uhhh, no, I'm not sure how such a thing would even work. What it does have is a mounting system that lets you remove the tower without needing to remove the backplate and such which is pretty nice. You're right, my bad. It's just the backplate, and yeah, in hindsight it would probably be practically impossible to keep the same cooling with a modular chip-to-heatsink interface
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May 11, 2016 19:32
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:It's very possible to build a gaming PC that is nearly silent while also being very small for under 1k, here is a sample build: Thank you so much, this is exactly the kind of starting point I needed. I've got a NAS on the way, so I shouldn't need all the drive bays; does that change your case recommendation any? I'm not opposed to having space I don't need, but if there's a case that fits the purpose better, I'm open to it. Newegg's specs for that motherboard indicate it supports DDR4 2133; will the DDR4 2400 sticks you picked run at their full speed? Waiting for the GTX 1070 sounds reasonable. The only time constraint I'm under is the July 29th deadline for getting Windows 10 as a free upgrade. Unless there's a good reason not to, what I might do is buy everything but the video card now (well, soon) and get by on integrated graphics until the new video cards are available. From what I've read, Skylake handles most video decoding like a champ, so I don't really need the video card for 95% of what this PC will be used for. Again, thank you for the help.
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May 11, 2016 19:44
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Toast Museum posted:Newegg's specs for that motherboard indicate it supports DDR4 2133; will the DDR4 2400 sticks you picked run at their full speed? No, but it doesn't matter, 2133 and 2400 RAM is basically the same price.
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May 11, 2016 20:03
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Are there case fans with LEDs that the led is on a separate wire than just the 3/4 pin that goes to the mobo?
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May 11, 2016 20:22
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Toast Museum posted:Thank you so much, this is exactly the kind of starting point I needed. The DDR4-2400 sticks will just run at 2133, I chose them because they happened to be the cheapest available. As far as the case goes I would just stick with the Node 304, most of the smaller options would also be louder and while some of them are cheaper they tend to be much louder because they have a lot of perforated panels to keep the temps lower, since you are not OCing the extra heat should not be a problem and this case will keep the system quiet better than the other options that would fit into your little alcove, there is the Fractal Design Define S Nano, but that it 13.55" tall, if you can fit the Nano I would recommend it since it is cheaper and quieter. The plan to build and then pop in the video card later sounds fine, the Skylake iGPU is pretty good and will let you play low end indy games fine in the meantime. Fart.Bleed.Repeat. posted:Are there case fans with LEDs that the led is on a separate wire than just the 3/4 pin that goes to the mobo? I've seen ones with separate wires, sometimes they have molex connectors and such.
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May 11, 2016 21:26
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HMS Boromir posted:Higher resolutions only hit the GPU harder and very few graphics settings have a significant impact on CPU load. Thanks a lot for the info! I'm running some average cooler (still way better than the stock one) one the cpu. Do you need something amazing to OC it to 4.5ghz?
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May 11, 2016 23:06
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Did my first build 4 years ago and I'm looking to refresh it, trying to get advice on what would be the most efficient upgrades. Got a limit of $1000(lower is better), live in the US, and it's just for general use/gaming. Also could use recommendations on a new monitor as my old one died and the monitor thread hasn't been updated since like 2012 last I checked. Space is an issue so something 23" or smaller would be great. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($0.00) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($0.00) Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($0.00) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($0.00) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi ATX Mid Tower Case ($0.00) Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($0.00) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit) ($0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-11 23:31 EDT-0400 SSDs were newish and expensive then so I'll definitely pick one up now. I was thinking a new GPU as well, but I've been reading I should wait... Don't plan on any VR, just regular old 1080p 60fps+ on high/ultra would be ideal and I think I want to go nvidia this time around, what should I be looking at? Lastly I was curious if I should upgrade to a newer CPU or not. If I did I'd likely to go to non-OC build, but I'd prefer to hold off if it won't have a meaningful impact so I don't have to replace as many parts/buy windows 10.
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May 12, 2016 05:21
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Dunk Bot 3000 posted:Did my first build 4 years ago and I'm looking to refresh it, trying to get advice on what would be the most efficient upgrades. Got a limit of $1000(lower is better), live in the US, and it's just for general use/gaming. I'd do something like this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($0.00) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($0.00) Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($0.00) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ NCIX US) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($0.00) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($474.99 @ Micro Center) Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi ATX Mid Tower Case ($0.00) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.49 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit) ($0.00) Monitor: Dell P2314H 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($189.99 @ Adorama) Total: $874.46 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 00:31 EDT-0400 Except replace the video card with a used 980Ti for around $300, a number of brands including EVGA have transferable warranties so you don't need to worry about problems with the card. It's sort of overkill but you could turn every setting up to max on every game for the foreseeable future and never drop below 60 FPS. You could also wait for the 1070 but that might take a while. I also added a good PSU since after 4-5 years you're due for a replacement.
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May 12, 2016 05:41
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here is a better parts list: So I did some shopping around and some of the the cheaper prices for the items selected are not in stock by those vendors. Plus with all the peripherals and Windows 10 I have to buy it's putting me into the $900-$1000 range. So I've been doing even more shopping and found two prebuilt iBUYPOWERs to consider. They basically have everything I could ask for. There's a Revolt 2 from Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227652 Or this desktop from Best Buy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...cat143400050013 The Revolt 2 is a little bit cheaper and seems to have a better cpu but I think its graphics card is weaker than the Best Buy option. The Best Buy option also has the benefit of having a optical drive and bigger case to upgrade/work in. I'm not really sure how much difference there is between the two. I'm sticking with the monitor you suggested plus these Logitech speakers. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitec...Id=abcat0515039 Any builds come close to what those have for the money? HP Artsandcrafts fucked around with this message at 07:48 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 07:32
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I'd do something like this: Forgot about the new PSU so thanks for that. I'm not sure I follow on the 980ti vs. 1070 though. If the 980ti is already overkill what's the benefit of waiting for the newer card? Am I wrong in assuming new gen = better? Kinda curious as I don't know much about this stuff, though I'm in no rush so in all likelihood I'll be waiting a bit anyways just to see how prices play out.
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May 12, 2016 07:38
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Dunk Bot 3000 posted:Forgot about the new PSU so thanks for that. I'm not sure I follow on the 980ti vs. 1070 though. If the 980ti is already overkill what's the benefit of waiting for the newer card? Am I wrong in assuming new gen = better? Kinda curious as I don't know much about this stuff, though I'm in no rush so in all likelihood I'll be waiting a bit anyways just to see how prices play out. There are some feature differences between the 980ti and 1070, the 1070 will be significantly better if you ever do VR or a multi-monitor setup and will be faster in DX12 and Vulkan. Also if you don't want to go with a used card the 1070 might end up being cheaper, retailers will be very reluctant to mark down 980Tis to $380 if they can possibly avoid it.
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May 12, 2016 08:06
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:I'm a clumsy gently caress and I've dropped my heavy multi-head screwdriver on my current motherboard easily a dozen times. They're resilient things, and also one of the cheapest components to replace if you gently caress something up. Because of the complexity and difficulty identifying which miniscule thing is broken, it's also really easy to return them as DOA to your vendor. Really the CPU is the only thing that you might be stuck with if you damage it, and that's a very simple install. If you follow the guide video in the OP you'll be just fine. See the problem is that I would need to construct it in my room, a place that has 2 rugs and carpet throughout that faces the sun during the morning, as there is no combined space where I live that isn't another persons bedroom or the kitchen, and as such surrounded by water. I can see how much cheaper it is though, so I am still tempted, its just such a pain to build anything in a rented house. Oh and to complete the form filling in: What Country are you in? The UK What are you using the system for? Gaming, browsing the internet, writing stuff. What's your budget? Maximum of £1000, but would prefer around £800 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? I would like to run on Medium to High settings on most games. I have just a laptop, that is almost 5 years old at this point, at the moment. So will also need a monitor and keyboard. Josef bugman fucked around with this message at 08:38 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 08:33
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Josef bugman posted:See the problem is that I would need to construct it in my room, a place that has 2 rugs and carpet throughout that faces the sun during the morning, as there is no combined space where I live that isn't another persons bedroom or the kitchen, and as such surrounded by water. I've assembled numerous computers while walking around on carpet without any grounding whatsoever, in winter too. Anyway, here's a build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£170.44 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£70.54 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£25.24 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£72.00 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 380 2GB Video Card (£139.96 @ Amazon UK) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£41.77 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.72 @ Amazon UK) Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (£11.48 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (£71.81 @ More Computers) Monitor: Asus VC239H 60Hz 23.0" Monitor (£119.86 @ More Computers) Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (£24.42 @ Amazon UK) Total: £817.24 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 09:10 BST+0100
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May 12, 2016 09:12
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Pixelslol posted:Thanks a lot for the info! I'm running some average cooler (still way better than the stock one) one the cpu. Do you need something amazing to OC it to 4.5ghz? A lot of it depends on how much voltage your particular CPU is going to need for a stable overclock (every chip is different due to the imprecise nature of the manufacturing process) but anecdotally the price-performance king of its time the 212 EVO seems to handle the 4770K at 4.3-4.5 GHz. If your cooler's a little worse then you should at least be able to overclock it as high as it'll go on stock voltage (4.2 GHz maybe) since a lot of the temperature increase when overclocking comes from increased voltage.
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May 12, 2016 10:55
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So I plan on changing my current platform of choice back to the PC after like a 5 year hiatus. A shitload of unfinished console titles and the overall cost of ownership increasing for little benefit has forced my hand (also I want to play Undertale and other indies before they get to PSN and not pay 20 dollars for something that's routinely on STEAM for 3 bucks). This is a pretty vanilla Skylake build but my intention was to give it a decent amount of headroom for overclocking with the CPU and the memory. Effectively I'm going to grab a loaner card from a friend and use a 1080p television as a monitor until I decide if I want to go all in or not, and if I do I grab an actual monitor and likely a GTX 1080, if I don't it's getting a GTX 1070 and being used as a living room PS4 replacement. The only real benchmark is Overwatch at locked 60, which I think this should be able to do, my only real concern is the power supply being strong enough to OC. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($72.58 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($112.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.85 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon) Total: $710.37 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 12:11 EDT-0400
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May 12, 2016 17:27
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