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CapnAndy posted:I've got a 2008 Ford Fusion and the brakes are starting to go from "okay so they're a bit soft" to "I'm going to get in a loving accident the first time I need to stop in a hurry", can you guys just give me a ballpark on what getting new brakes cost? This is going to depend on what the problem is - does the pedal drop to the floor and the car stops slowly, is the pedal firm but the car stops slowly when the pedal is pressed, etc?
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May 9, 2016 21:45
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Geoj posted:This is going to depend on what the problem is - does the pedal drop to the floor and the car stops slowly, is the pedal firm but the car stops slowly when the pedal is pressed, etc?
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May 9, 2016 22:53
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Find a small muffler + brake shop somewhere local and have the guy look at it. If you go to a chain/the dealership it'll end up in the hundreds for sure. If it's just pads it shouldn't be too bad, but smaller guys are willing to do stuff like actually fix the issue instead of saying "whelp that'll be $1600 for new brakes all around".
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May 10, 2016 00:29
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bikesonyx posted:I just went out there with the key that never works, and it started. Security light is on, so I guess I have to wait until I actually need to go somewhere. Like work. For this to be a problem. So the remedy to the problem is leaving the car on the "on" position until the security light turns off every time I start the car. So if you have the GM no run "Security" light or the lock light, leave the key in the on position and it should go off. Measure the keys resistance and try to reset the system before replacing the ignition or cutting new keys
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May 10, 2016 00:38
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Hey guys, I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 (rebadged Ford Ranger), 2WD, thinking it needs a wheel bearing and front ball joints. How big of a job is that? It looks like for about $50 each I can get new control arms with ball joints already in there (since I don't own a press, seems like the easiest idea) but will I be sorry I attempted this?
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May 10, 2016 17:01
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Ranger is easy to work on, go for it
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May 10, 2016 20:58
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I've done the control arms with ball joint pre-installed and it was an easy job on that period ranger.
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May 10, 2016 21:04
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Whatever you do, don't buy ULTRAPOWER balljoints or other suspension parts. gently caress them. SlimManFat bought an ULTRAPOWER control arm for someone's Ford Edge (iirc) and it failed on his test drive. Balljoint fell the gently caress out of the arm it was pressed into at the factory. I bought ULTRAPOWER balljoints for my Forester and after about 1 year and 50k miles, the front left one was discovered to have 1/4" of radial play in it. I'd heard a funny clunking noise going over bumps but discovered a completely shagged out swaybar bushing that explained it well and decided to just deal with it the next time I was doing other suspension work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLAPaujRGyQ never again
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May 10, 2016 21:31
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Moog never seems exorbitantly expensive on rockauto and they seem to put effort into improving oem designs with extra grease fittings and such. I just did control arms on my wife's Escape of around the same vintage and it was pretty easy for an amateur with hand tools. The parts store loaner ball joint puller was a lifesaver and make sure you have a second floor jack to preload the suspension before you tighten everything up.
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May 11, 2016 00:41
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Moog are good in theory but their ball joints last less than OEM even if grease-able. IDGI
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May 11, 2016 01:23
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Christobevii3 posted:What year model of intrepid so I can look up if it has the horrid sideways distributor ran off the crankshaft? babyeatingpsychopath posted:Ok, I'm having something of a problem. I have a Dodge Intrepid with the 3.5L V6. Any word?
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May 11, 2016 01:59
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TBH you should get an award for having a 1997 intrepid still running... I don't know enough about mid 90's Chrysler except I hate them for similar experiences. Googling I couldn't find much except test fuel pressure, move injectors around, and pull the o2 sensors to run and see if the cat is clogged.
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May 11, 2016 02:18
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Had a 95 intrepid until 2007. Mom t-boned a city pickup. Then had a 2004 replacement until 2014, they traded it in for a Ram 1500. Don't know what mental affliction they had, but it must be genetic, because you can see the cars I drive.
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May 11, 2016 02:36
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^^^ wasn't the 3.5l v6 that kills itself through oil starvation because one of the pathways is small and leads to it sludging up and the pressure drops slowly till you get an Intermittent oil light then your engine stops turning eventually?
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May 11, 2016 02:37
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I think that was the later model. I thought the 3.5L was based of a mits design.
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May 11, 2016 03:44
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CornHolio posted:Hey guys, Upper or lower? Upper you really have to get the whole arm, it's not designed to be replaced. Lower can be done with a rental press. I do recommend getting the adjustable alignment bolts, though. Phone posting but I went through the front end of my '98 2wd Ranger at the beginning of my current project thread. Really isn't too bad to do.
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May 11, 2016 06:41
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some texas redneck posted:A lot of the info you're looking for would be in a factory service manual - the FSM will often explain what signals each sensor sends, how to diagnose each sensor, etc. Kastein would be the most knowledgeable about this though. Seconding this a lot. OBD2 implementation will vary from year-to-year as OEMs make changes in OBD detection (to eliminate false positives/catch missed failures), will vary from ECU-to-ECU due to different capabilities, design, and of course because parts themselves change, which may not be obvious to people who aren't familiar. For example, GM just implemented wide-range O2 sensors on some vehicles. So if you got a new Malibu with the 2.0L turbo but it was the last body style (limited edition or something) then it has a switching sensor upstream, whereas if you got a new Malibu with the 2.0L but it's the new body style then it has a wide-range sensor upstream. Obviously, OBDII diagnostics will be completely different between the two sensors. But then if you get a 16MY CT6 with the 3.0L Turbo, you'll see that it also has the same wide-range sensor upstream. However, it uses a completely different ECU and ASIC from the 2.0L turbo and so the OBDII implementation is different. And I can tell you from experience, after having participated in checking the OBDII implementation on these two applications, that it's very difficult to interpret the OBDII codes/results that you get without a very good understanding of how the sensor itself operates. It's very specialized work and a giant can of worms. But I can only speak from the supplier/engineer's point of view. What you're looking for might be much more simple from a mechanic's point of view, because they might not be so concerned about diagnosing HOW a part has gone bad but just that it has (or that it was a false positive).
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May 11, 2016 16:22
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP and I'm having a weird issue with rain and snow when my car is at an angle. Earlier this year, we had a freak heavy snow that was fully melted by the end of the day. When I went inside my car, I saw that the passenger side floor was full of water. I used a cheap wet-dry vac to get it out, then took it to a car place at the end of the block who ran some water over the windshield and found no issue. We decided that it was probably due to how quickly the snow melted that some of the runoff got through and there was no charge for the inspection. Nothing happened after that for a few months, but last night we had some moderately heavy rains while my car was parked slightly uphill and this morning, my passenger floor was again, full of water. Not as much as before, but enough that I needed to wetvac it out. I felt the top part above where your feet sit and that was kind of wet as well. When I ran the AC, I heard splashing noises. I'm taking it back in tomorrow to have it looked at and I was wondering if anyone here has any idea of what could be causing this leakage.
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May 11, 2016 18:47
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Buying a salvage title car in California - stupid or very stupid? Trying to figure out if I should expand my Craigslist search by another hundred miles or so.
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May 11, 2016 19:27
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Buying a salvage title car in California - stupid or very stupid? AI meets BFC: No rentals or salvage titles. if someone gives you a salvage car for $1 yes.. otherwise no do not buy.
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May 11, 2016 19:40
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I figured as much. Thanks!
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May 11, 2016 19:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:Upper or lower? Upper you really have to get the whole arm, it's not designed to be replaced. Lower can be done with a rental press. Man you weren't kidding, that looks really familiar. I paid $800 for this truck a year and a half ago, and only drive it a thousand miles a year (when I need a truck, basically) so I'm hesitant to put a lot of money into it. It's mighty rusty under there. That's the part I'm not looking forward too. I need to really inspect all the boots, but I'd probably replace uppers and lowers. Maybe even the shocks while I'm in there, they're probably the originals at 140k miles.
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May 11, 2016 20:00
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Vlaphor posted:I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP and I'm having a weird issue with rain and snow when my car is at an angle. Earlier this year, we had a freak heavy snow that was fully melted by the end of the day. When I went inside my car, I saw that the passenger side floor was full of water. I used a cheap wet-dry vac to get it out, then took it to a car place at the end of the block who ran some water over the windshield and found no issue. We decided that it was probably due to how quickly the snow melted that some of the runoff got through and there was no charge for the inspection. I used to have a 97 GTP with the same issue, it was something to do with the water leak guard near the wipers. http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/15930/pontiac/grand-prix/pontiac-grand-prix-water-leak That should take care of it.
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May 11, 2016 20:37
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Wasnt sure where to put these so Ill ask here: I wanted to plastidip the gray fender trim that runs all the way around my explorer, plus like two inches above the doors because theres a little rust and I don't care enough about a real fix. Last time I used plastidip I used some painters tape to block off the stuff I didn't want, but then when I peeled the tape the plastic was still mostly stuck and didn't have a clean line. If I want to avoid that what do I use? Some sort of plastic knife and just run it around the trim before I start peeling?
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May 11, 2016 20:49
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Did you let it dry? You'd want to remove it immediately after painting. Multiple coats would be a problem.
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May 11, 2016 20:55
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I have a stupid question, i'm looking for tips on making "fun weekend project" into "interesting post with photos". What do people do wrong, what should i try to do right?
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May 12, 2016 01:44
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DO:
DON'T:
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May 12, 2016 01:58
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I am in KY and want to give my old '01 Eclipse 5-speed to my brother while he is visiting and he will drive it down to TN and title it there. Can I just hand him the keys and the title and have him take care of the rest, or am I going to have to go get something notarized? This Tennessee website says my brother would need to: "Get a properly assigned title and odometer disclosure from the previous owner." What is an Assigned Title? Am I just printing something up with some backstory and the mileage on it, signing it, and then stapling it to the title? This other website suggests that due to the age of my vehicle that the odometer disclosure would not be necessary. I'm lazy as gently caress, don't know dick about poo poo, and just wanna transfer this old car over to my brother with minimal fuss so his daughter can learn to drive a manual.
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May 12, 2016 03:57
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Copper Vein posted:I am in KY and want to give my old '01 Eclipse 5-speed to my brother while he is visiting and he will drive it down to TN and title it there. Can I just hand him the keys and the title and have him take care of the rest, or am I going to have to go get something notarized? Assigning the title generally just means filling out the transfer portion on the back of the title itself. Sometimes there's a tearoff stub on the title that the seller has to submit to the state to prove that neither party is lying about price for tax advantage. See if your state has a generic bill of sale form available online. You may need to submit one to prove you no longer own the car and it's a good idea to send your brother a copy to prove a friendly family sale if the DMV questions the sale price. Generally bills of sale only need to be notarized in specific situations like salvage, and titles only need to be notarized if you scratch something out and make corrections when filling out the back. That should all be noted on the documents themselves.
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May 12, 2016 04:06
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'87 Lada Niva. I hope I haven't asked this. Been sick so my head's a bit hazy. A little background. I just finished pulling and reinstalling the starter motor and replacing the steering box. These two are in close proximity to the 2-1 exhaust pipe section attached to the manifold. There was a stamped metal heatshield between the starter and the exhaust but I got the shits and snapped it off because it was preventing me from removing and reinstalling the starter and steering box. Apparently a lot of people remove them from the RHD models for this exact reason. I snapped it off because the studs holding it to the intake manifold were withered lumps of rust and the nuts seemed like random ones that were jammed onby someone. All seized solid. Now my question. Would I be okay to get the cheap fiberglass exhaust wrap to put around the section near the starter? It's an old NA 1600 carbed engine. Nothing fancy. I feel that even cheap wrap would probably better than the lovely piece of metal that was there. It's as low budget as I am. That's why I'm asking.
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May 12, 2016 05:30
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How close is close proximity? If it's more than a few inches I wouldn't even worry about it.
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May 12, 2016 06:20
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Enourmo posted:DON'T: 
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May 12, 2016 10:12
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Did they ever unfuck the Northstar V8? I've inexplicably fallen in love with post-'92 Eldorados, but I don't like any of what I'm reading about the engine.
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May 12, 2016 18:19
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Eskaton posted:Did they ever unfuck the Northstar V8? Let's talk about starter motor replacements. So...No.
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May 12, 2016 18:48
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A cyclist hit my car from behind, and took out my rear windshield. Context: Road only narrow enough for one one-way traffic; I stopped to let someone coming the opposite direction go through; cyclist presumably didn't see me stop, and hit me full speed. Cyclist was shook-en up, but OK, other than a minor gash on his hand. He probably would have been seriously injured as he hit his head, but the helmet did its job. An EMT was actually behind us at the time (What odds?) and didn't seem concerned about the guy. Should I -Pay for it all myself and suck up the costs -Go to my auto insurance, who will probably then go after the cyclist -Ask the cyclist to pay halvsies This is complicated by the fact that I'll be out of the country for the next month! How do I get this fixed? Just call around to auto shops? Presumably they order the windshield (and taillight cover) from Mazda, it arrives in a few days, and they repair? What about covering in the meantime? I prob can't get it repaired until I leave, so I need to make sure my car doesn't get soaked for a month. Worried about tape leaving permanent marks and/or not holding well enough. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 18:57
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I don't see why you'd even offer half or to pay it yourself. You weren't breaking any laws and he hit you.
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May 12, 2016 19:29
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Yeah it's his fault, it's not like cars don't have brake lights. Any cyclist not paying attention needs a lesson and I say this as someone who cycles every day.
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May 12, 2016 19:37
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Oddly enough, he was the only one on the street, out of about 5 cyclists, who was wearing a helmet.
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May 12, 2016 19:37
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Definitely report it to your insurance, they can figure out the rest. Did you get his info?
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May 12, 2016 19:39
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Yea. I figured that the insurance premium increase would make it not worth it? I'm 30 and have a spotless record. This shouldn't cost more than $600 or so right? Completely replace rear windshield; replace a taillight cover. Presumably the parts need to be special ordered from Mazda? This is for a car that hasn't been produced for 6 years. Do they still make RX-8 rear windshields?
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May 12, 2016 19:44
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