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Since cyclists don't have insurance, how does that work? Your insurance just contacts him and says "hey, pay up?"
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May 12, 2016 20:28
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Dubious posted:I used to have a 97 GTP with the same issue, it was something to do with the water leak guard near the wipers. Would there be any kind of video tutorial you know about? I'm sure I can do it from the description (even cancelled the 1:30 appointment to get it looked at), but a bit more information never hurts. Thanks.
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May 12, 2016 20:29
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CornHolio posted:Since cyclists don't have insurance, how does that work? Your insurance just contacts him and says "hey, pay up?" Probably covered under uninsured/underinsured?
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May 12, 2016 20:35
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Dominoes posted:Yea. I figured that the insurance premium increase would make it not worth it? I'm 30 and have a spotless record. This shouldn't cost more than $600 or so right? Completely replace rear windshield; replace a taillight cover. Presumably the parts need to be special ordered from Mazda? This is for a car that hasn't been produced for 6 years. Do they still make RX-8 rear windshields? He should be held responsible for it. May end up being a small-claims type thing eventually, but there's no reason you should have to pay for anything.
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May 12, 2016 20:42
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Dominoes posted:Yea. I figured that the insurance premium increase would make it not worth it? I'm 30 and have a spotless record. This shouldn't cost more than $600 or so right? Completely replace rear windshield; replace a taillight cover. Presumably the parts need to be special ordered from Mazda? This is for a car that hasn't been produced for 6 years. Do they still make RX-8 rear windshields? I've never understood this: why would a not-your-fault incident cause your rates to go up?
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May 12, 2016 21:37
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Insurance companies are scum, and this should only be a few hundred $/GBP. Leaning insurance based on y'alls advice, I just don't know what I'm doing! I hope this is an effective wear-your-drat-helmet anecdote: The cyclist's helmet smashed the glass. He walked away with minor cuts - he would probably be in the ER if his bare head struck instead. I watched 5 helmet-less cyclists pass by immediately after. Odd coincidence: the guy behind the cyclist was an EMT in his van! Turned on the blue flashers, and gave the guy a glance to see if he was OK. Told him to go to the emer clinic across the street if he had an issue. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 21:38
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Geirskogul posted:Let's talk about starter motor replacements. Could you throw a 3800 in one? The bellhousing should match up with a little work.
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May 12, 2016 21:49
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Eskaton posted:Could you throw a 3800 in one? The bellhousing should match up with a little work. 5.3l ls4
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May 12, 2016 22:10
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Dominoes posted:Insurance companies are scum, and this should only be a few hundred $/GBP. Leaning insurance based on y'alls advice, I just don't know what I'm doing! May be worth checking what your deductible is if replacing the rear glass is all that needs doing. All my car windshields have always cost less than what my plan's deductible is. I think rear glass can be more expensive though since there's generally heating element/antennae/witchcraft in them. Just might want to check, though calling in professionals is always the safest bet for making life easier.
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May 13, 2016 00:52
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Well looks like my deductable's $1k. Does this mean claiming is pointless? IIRC I did that since I look at insurance as for something I can't really afford; anything else is getting hosed by the insuro company's math.
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May 13, 2016 01:15
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Dominoes posted:Well looks like my deductable's $1k. Does this mean claiming is pointless? IIRC I did that since I look at insurance as for something I can't really afford; anything else is getting hosed by the insuro company's math. Go call around for estimates. You might be able to get out for under that, but I don't know the extent of your damage or how cheap those parts are. You have the other guy's information, right? Once you have a reasonable number, add some padding to it (because nothing ever goes 100% according to the estimate) and ask him for that much money. If he doesn't play ball, you might have to pay out of pocket and then go after him in small claims court. If you can claim it against your uninsured motorist coverage (does it count if he's not technically a motorist?) then there should be no deductible and no penalty against your premiums. But this might vary by region, so double check on that.
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May 13, 2016 01:25
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Bike riders are usually covered by their homeowner's/renter's insurance rather than their auto insurance. You should probably get reimbursed for your deductible if it's determined that the cyclist is at fault, too (YMMV, call your agent). And find out how much a new windshield will be. Rears are generally a lot more than a front (3x or more). I really hope you got a police report in case this guy tries to pull some injury fuckery later.
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May 13, 2016 01:38
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CornHolio posted:Since cyclists don't have insurance, how does that work? Your insurance just contacts him and says "hey, pay up?" Almost exactly this. In some states they can suspend driver licenses, credit hits, etc. In smaller debt situations like this usually they'll sell the debt to a collector for a percentage.
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May 13, 2016 02:05
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Safety Dance posted:I've never understood this: why would a not-your-fault incident cause your rates to go up? Well you see, being in an accident makes you X% more likely to be in a future accident, therefore you must pay extra to cover your future accidents. This is the same kind of correlation bullshit that you see on a graph where (say) the sales of redskin potatoes coincides with an uptick in the infant mortality rate in states ending in the letter "G." Of course the two have absolutely nothing to do with each other, but insurance companies don't pay their actuaries to toss paper airplanes around the office all day, and most states in the US have regulation on rates that start and end with "do whatever you want as long as its declared with the insurance commission at the beginning of the fiscal year."
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May 13, 2016 02:28
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Even then, insurance companies are lucky to make 4 or 5 cents on a dollar. Many of them don't actually turn a profit on car insurance, making it up on home insurance or investments.
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May 13, 2016 02:34
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Bovril Delight posted:Even then, insurance companies are lucky to make 4 or 5 cents on a dollar. Many of them don't actually turn a profit on car insurance, making it up on home insurance or investments. Not sure if I'm supposed to feel bad about that. I don't.
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May 13, 2016 02:42
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Insurance companies are hosed since the fed dropped rates to like nothing. Shop around, my mom when the new altima came out in 2002 had the antenna in the glass. A baseball went through within the first year and it was only $250 to have it replaced at binswanger glass.
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May 13, 2016 02:54
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Motronic posted:Not sure if I'm supposed to feel bad about that. Nah, don't feel bad. Business is business. People just think that insurance companies make hand over fist and its almost never the case.
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May 13, 2016 03:24
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The us has a fucktonne of corn right? In Australia we have e85 at a small number of stations which is rated at 105 RON. Does America have an equivalent? How common/good is it? I would think itd be everywhere compared to here where its rather rare because you have a lot more corn?
underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 05:12 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 05:10
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E85 is mainly in very large cities at limited cities. It isn't good in old cars but modern E85 vehicles with a tune can be fun.
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May 13, 2016 05:58
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The main difference is that here, pretty much all "gasoline" is E10. I dunno how ubiquitous that is in Australia, but here pretty much any gasoline not advertised as "ethanol free" is E10, and we use about 5x as much gasoline per year as Australia. at least up to 2010; basically we consume half of Australia's annual gas consumption in ethanol alone, just as anti-knock additive.
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May 13, 2016 07:14
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CornHolio posted:Since cyclists don't have insurance, how does that work? Your insurance just contacts him and says "hey, pay up?" Just because he wasn't in a car doesn't make him not liable for the damages. It'd be the same if I went all Walter Sobchak on your car. My auto insurance won't pay out, but I'm still legally on the hook.
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May 13, 2016 08:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Just because he wasn't in a car doesn't make him not liable for the damages. It'd be the same if I went all Walter Sobchak on your car. My auto insurance won't pay out, but I'm still legally on the hook. Your homeowner's will probably pay.
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May 13, 2016 17:12
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Any more Yay/nays on insurance? Specially would they make me pay a deductible? If they do, I'll get a rate increase with no real cost savings on the repair. Regarding getting it fixed: Won't happen in time. I cleaned up some of the glass, and put a cover over my car; should keep it dry for the next 5 weeks when I can deal with the repair. Also it looks like I'll have to go to a separate shop (or DIM?) to get the taillite cover replaced. Normal shops won't do the glass, and the ones that do are mobile operations‽ GH I'm offended you never want to play AoE with me! Dominoes fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 18:42
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Geirskogul posted:Let's talk about starter motor replacements. The 92 and 93s got the 4.9, which doesn't sound as awful. I'll probably take a look at those.
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May 13, 2016 19:01
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Dominoes posted:Any more Yay/nays on insurance? Specially would they make me pay a deductible? If they do, I'll get a rate increase with no real cost savings on the repair. Regarding getting it fixed: Won't happen in time. I cleaned up some of the glass, and put a cover over my car; should keep it dry for the next 5 weeks when I can deal with the repair. Also it looks like I'll have to go to a separate shop (or DIM?) to get the taillite cover replaced. Normal shops won't do the glass, and the ones that do are mobile operations‽ Call your goddamned agent and ask HIM. We don't know what your policy and local laws say.
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May 13, 2016 22:59
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P sure if I ask it's already decided! Also you're dodging the AoE thing SO HARD.
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 00:45
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Where might I find a guide or video on how to replace an alternator on a 2007 Toyota RAV4 4, 4 cylinder? I have found this video, but the dude never actually replaces the alternator.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1n5bQ-ABoA
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May 14, 2016 01:18
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Dominoes posted:P sure if I ask it's already decided! Also you're dodging the AoE thing SO HARD. Nope, you can call your agent and ask them what's up. Give them a rundown. There's a significant difference between "reporting" an incident and "claiming" an incident. My wife's mother hit a deer and called the agent to see what the deal was. Just for informational purposes. The agent gave the rundown, said rates wouldn't go up, etc, etc, and that with act-of-God type stuff, there's no deductible on the first incident in a rolling three-year period, so she ended up making a claim and getting her bumper replaced for free. This is a specific case with a specific insurance provider, but only you can determine if making the claim or just asking the agent a hypothetical question is worth your time and money.
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May 14, 2016 01:28
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Dominoes posted:P sure if I ask it's already decided! Also you're dodging the AoE thing SO HARD. I just bought Rocket League and Stellaris in about the past week. I did download that widescreen mod this morning though.
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May 14, 2016 03:17
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Please help me diagnose by tomorrow morning/afternoon Car: 2006 Dodge Charger RT, RWD, 140k miles Scenario: for the past several days, the steering wheel and car have been shaking when applying brakes. The car would ride smoothly up to 70mph, with almost no shake on the steering column or body of car. However, when applying brakes at speeds greater than ~25 mph, the steering wheel and car would shake rather violently. I assumed it to be the front brakes. I just got done replacing the front rotors and brake pads. When I had the wheels off, I noticed the inner portion of the rims were really grimy and even had clumps of dirt built up in various spots. I cleaned them as best I could. The brake assembly on one side was much more rusty than the other, but both appeared about the same after spraying with brake cleaner. Now, the car no longer shakes when applying brakes. It shakes at all times at speeds greater than ~40-45 mph. It feels to me as if a wheel is out of balance. The tread on my tires is also getting low, but has enough to last the summer, at least. I don't want to pay to balance the old tires, but I also am not ready to buy new tires yet if the shaking is caused by some other suspension issue. What could be causing the car to shake after performing the above maintenance? Is it as simple as a wheel out of balance after cleaning the inside of the rims?
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May 14, 2016 05:12
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Can you feel which corner is shaking? If so, switch some wheels around and see if it follows. Maybe you'll be able to tell a difference front/back or side/side. Alternately, if you have snow tires or another set that will fit the car, drive around the block on those to see if they solve the problem. If things were grimy, is it possible that you got some crud trapped between a wheel and where it mounts to the hub? 
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May 14, 2016 05:16
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Raluek posted:Can you feel which corner is shaking? If so, switch some wheels around and see if it follows. Maybe you'll be able to tell a difference front/back or side/side. I could not pinpoint if it came from a particular corner. It definitely feels front. I like the idea of rotating the tires. Sucks to do in my own garage but I have 4 jack stands. I'll try this tomorrow before anything else. As for poo poo getting stuck between wheel and hub, maybe. I'll inspect what I can and spray a bit more when I rotate the wheels. I wish I tried moving the wheel top to bottom or left to right when I had the car on jack stands. I didn't know/expect the car would shake at all times. I will also check for this when I rotate.
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May 14, 2016 05:22
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Have the control arms ever been replaced? Failed rubber bushings can cause that shake on braking. As the weight of the car shifts, the suspension will have too much play. At that age/mileage, a lot of suspension components are probably in need of attention.
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May 14, 2016 05:34
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I can't remember exactly, but I believe both side lowers were replaced and possibly one upper. I loving hate suspension and would consider replacing control arms a last resort. Oh, another symptom that I just remembered: the car recently started creaking while traveling at very slow speeds and turning/going over bumps. It is definitely a front end creak, audible inside the car even with windows rolled up.
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May 14, 2016 05:39
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89 cougar: How much of a pain is swapping out the cruise servo? Isn't in the Haynes manual 
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May 14, 2016 06:26
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Javid posted:89 cougar: Ford usually likes to mount it to the firewall, in my experience. I've replaced a couple in an older Taurus and a Focus, and neither was difficult. You should have a reasonable amount of room to look/work in, without a sideways engine.
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May 14, 2016 07:47
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Slavvy posted:How close is close proximity? If it's more than a few inches I wouldn't even worry about it. Yeah sorry about the slow reply. It's really not much. I suppose an inch or so I guess. I haven't seen it installed without the heat shield. But the heat shield sits pretty close to the starter. The bottom bracket on my heat shield was broken and that little bit of flex made it touch on the exhaust and get rubbed away a bit on the edge. Part of me is thinking I should just shove it all back together now and order some wrap. gently caress future me over so I can drive my car. You know? I welded up the muffler cracks and holes yesterday so the exhaust is ready to go back in, and knocked the snapped swaybar bracket stud out so I can shove in a through bolt. So there's really nothing stopping me from finishing putting everything back together, except that it was an absolute ironclad oval office of a job removing an entire exhaust system from manifold to (apparently chrome) tailpipe in one piece, and I'm really not looking forward to reversing the process.
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May 14, 2016 13:24
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2007 Mazdaspeed 3 electrical annoyance. It's getting close to time for a new battery, but I've had intermittent electrical issues that I believe are caused by a lovely positive terminal clamp (it is not tight on the battery post, the clamp seems to have deformed). Unfortunately, being Mazda, they have some weird clamp that accommodates what looks like a fuse on one of the battery cables. It's the lower one in this photo, fuse is the brown box you can barely see:  I cannot seem to find a drat part number for this, and I found at least one report of someone's car refusing to start with that fuse removed, if I were to just cut the cable down for a more traditional clamp. Any suggestions? The parts desk at the local Mazda dealer hasn't been very helpful in the past. Edit: Think I found it, part # BP4K-67-TB1. Shooting Blanks fucked around with this message at 15:12 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 14:38
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This is probably a stupid question so I'm putting it here. I got a Mitsubishi Space Wagon with the F5M42 "ticking timebomb special" gearbox, we decided to remove the gearbox due to a failure with the clutch and noticed rattling inside, opened up the inspection cover and there are like grooves worn into the gears. It's probably a bit hard to see here but it's taken out chunks of metal like a millimeter deep and there is some wear on the top of the gear as well, similar marks can be seen on two other gears as well. http://imgur.com/dhZn5mC Do these require replacing? I obviously need to open up the whole fucker to replace whatever blew up to cause that but I can't afford to replace the gears so if they need to be replaced I'mma scrap the whole thing and see about buying another gearbox or just live without a car. At first I thought those grooves were machined because on one gear they are so regular, almost but not quite in a straight line. On the other gears they are more irregular.
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May 14, 2016 19:22
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