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Built in 1958. I wouldn't push the pressure up without getting it proof tested first. It's probably cheaper to buy a new tank. The pump can probably handle 125, but may leak at the seals and be inefficient.
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May 20, 2016 18:56
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I hear the recommendations for HF air tools, however at $99 for a 1/2" impact I was curious if this deal seemed like a reasonable upgrade? http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-231...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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May 21, 2016 05:32
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By the way, thanks for the gearwrench link a page or so back. I picked some up yesterday from the store, I can't wait to get some use out of them this weekend.
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May 21, 2016 07:23
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are manual tyre machines worth a poo poo for just doing the odd tyre?
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May 21, 2016 11:19
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Maksimus54 posted:I hear the recommendations for HF air tools, however at $99 for a 1/2" impact I was curious if this deal seemed like a reasonable upgrade? I've seen IR have a drop in quality for certain models. That HF 1/2 is worth the 100 and more. I've seen them endure some terrible abuse. I once dropped mine from the raised lift onto a concrete floor and nothing happened. I've had mine for five years and it has never skipped a beat.
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May 21, 2016 16:16
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SouthsideSaint posted:I've seen IR have a drop in quality for certain models. That HF 1/2 is worth the 100 and more. I've seen them endure some terrible abuse. I once dropped mine from the raised lift onto a concrete floor and nothing happened. I've had mine for five years and it has never skipped a beat. Awesome, thanks for the feedback
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May 21, 2016 17:16
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I've got a 1/2" drive, Snap On 18v Nicad impact wrench. I am debating trying to sell it and buy the 1/2" 18V Li-ion Milwaukee version. Is this a step in the right direction or worth the bump in specs from the Snap On version? I already have milwaukee 18v tools and having a special snap on tool is annoying.
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May 21, 2016 19:48
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About how much would you want for the Snap On? A contractor buddy of mine bought a Stiletto hammer. He broke it.  I emailed Stiletto, and they sent me this:  Now I have a Stiletto hammer. 
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May 21, 2016 20:05
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Got my workbench built and organized. Great Craigslist scores on the tool chest and stereo. How long does this stay neat?
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May 21, 2016 20:22
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FogHelmut posted:Got my workbench built and organized. Great Craigslist scores on the tool chest and stereo. How long does this stay neat? How long until you start your first project?
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May 21, 2016 21:01
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Second project. 
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May 21, 2016 23:54
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Safety Dance posted:About how much would you want for the Snap On? Stiletto hammers are absolute garbage at any prying/nail pulling because they break instantly, but BOY do they swing nice. I've always had good luck getting free replacement handles too.
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May 22, 2016 05:02
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I've got a 1/2" drive, Snap On 18v Nicad impact wrench. I am debating trying to sell it and buy the 1/2" 18V Li-ion Milwaukee version. Is this a step in the right direction or worth the bump in specs from the Snap On version? I already have milwaukee 18v tools and having a special snap on tool is annoying. My buddy has almost the full m18 line and that impact is amazing. It's just as powerful as most of the pneumatic ones in the shop, it's durable as all hell, great battery life. Decent size, can fit most anywhere with a few extensions. Absolutely love it and you will too.
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May 22, 2016 12:50
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Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8 impact wrench trip report: It won't replace a proper 1/2" air (or from the sound of it, a M18 impact) but it does take lug nuts off in about 5 seconds each. And it's loving tiny / super light. Awesome little tool, I'll be throwing it in the Jeep any time I go offroading just to save me some time if I ever actually cut a tire.
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May 22, 2016 14:57
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I've got a 1/2" drive, Snap On 18v Nicad impact wrench. I am debating trying to sell it and buy the 1/2" 18V Li-ion Milwaukee version. Is this a step in the right direction or worth the bump in specs from the Snap On version? I already have milwaukee 18v tools and having a special snap on tool is annoying. Trade it across for the 18v Li Ion Snap-on. Then trade all your other tools in for their 18v Li Ion Snap-on equivalents. Problem solved!* Seriouspost: Most of the high-end Li-Ion stuff outclasses the older Nicad tools in every respect. My coworker just bought the 1/2" 18v Fuel impact gun, and he loves it. *May cost upwards of $2000 depending on the size of your current tool collection.
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May 22, 2016 18:02
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Thanks for the comments. I love the snap on, I just hate that the battery is kinda crappy compared to modern tech. I guess a li-ion battery might be a good compromise if that is an option. Then a new charger too though...
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May 22, 2016 19:29
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I have the Snap-on 3/8" li-ion impact gun, and it blows the pants off the old Nicad one in terms of power, battery life, and performance drop off as the battery discharges. Better specs than the Milwaukee too, but obviously there is a price difference.
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May 22, 2016 21:30
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Got to bust out some tools today to work on a car and my Grey Pneumatic Duo sets are all getting some surface rust on them from being in my detached garage in Missouri. What can I do to keep this from getting worse?
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May 25, 2016 02:18
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WD-40. You can join the dozens of us that actually use that stuff correctly.
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May 25, 2016 03:16
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Also, throw some silica packs in the toolbox. In other news, I finally got some wera screwdrivers. Those are pretty god drat nice. A 6 piece set was only $30 on Amazon, too!
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May 25, 2016 05:01
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Galler posted:WD-40. You can join the dozens of us that actually use that stuff correctly. I did not think WD-40 acted as a surface treatment. Does it?
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May 25, 2016 05:46
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Safety Dance posted:I did not think WD-40 acted as a surface treatment. Does it? It's good for spraying into computer parts while wearing pajama pants.
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May 25, 2016 05:52
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Safety Dance posted:I did not think WD-40 acted as a surface treatment. Does it? That's what it was intended to do, Water Displacement, formula #40. Original use, keeping missile tubes from rusting in storage.
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May 25, 2016 12:27
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sharkytm posted:That's what it was intended to do, Water Displacement, formula #40. Original use, keeping missile tubes from rusting in storage. So the coating actually stays on that long even though it appears to run off? I wonder how well it would work to protect the inside of rocker panels and such.
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May 25, 2016 15:10
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MrOnBicycle posted:So the coating actually stays on that long even though it appears to run off? I wonder how well it would work to protect the inside of rocker panels and such. Not ideal, you need something thicker and waxy/gummy to really stick. You're not going to be touching the insides of the panels in daily use, so you can use the really good stuff.
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May 25, 2016 16:01
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I'll probably need something like that as well. Winter and salt is murder down here in the south of Sweden. I just wonder what to use that isn't insanely expensive and/or snake oil. Without knowing that much the optimal thing would be something that stops existing rust while also protecting from new rust forming. The car I'm looking to buy had a Dinitrol treatment done 5 years ago, which is good I guess. Really loving expensive though. I'm very likely to buy the car and hopefully keep it for 5 years, hopefully without any rust showing.
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May 25, 2016 16:39
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I tried to quiet down my squeaky clothes dryer by spraying some WD-40 towards the running motor. Turns out it's flammable, just like arm hair! My dryer went "FWOOMP" and then it never squeaked again.
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May 25, 2016 16:58
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Astonishing Wang posted:I tried to quiet down my squeaky clothes dryer by spraying some WD-40 towards the running motor. Turns out it's flammable, just like arm hair! My dryer went "FWOOMP" and then it never squeaked again. How did you not know that already? You've seriously never combined it with a cigarette lighter and made an extremely efficient bug killer? and I mean 'extremely efficient' in the sense that it will burn down your house.
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May 25, 2016 17:19
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The perfect spider solution. I might be thinking of something else, but I thought they managed to remove the flammable chemistry out of WD-40 a few years back.
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May 25, 2016 17:26
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Looking back - I was in a lovely marriage and maybe just wanted to end it the quick way. I didn't have a lot of experience working on stuff, and I'd seen my dad use WD40 to lubricate things before. Just not while they were running.
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May 25, 2016 17:50
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'll probably need something like that as well. Winter and salt is murder down here in the south of Sweden. I just wonder what to use that isn't insanely expensive and/or snake oil. Dinitrol is good stuff. My car's been treated with it, and it's completely rust-free even after 15 years on Danish roads.
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May 25, 2016 18:07
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fknlo posted:Got to bust out some tools today to work on a car and my Grey Pneumatic Duo sets are all getting some surface rust on them from being in my detached garage in Missouri. What can I do to keep this from getting worse? You need Fluid Film. Spray it on, wipe it off very lightly. If you don't mind lanolin smell, it's the best lube/anti-rust/boot treatment/dielectric/etc ever.
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May 25, 2016 18:10
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The best bug killer will always be any brakleen not marketed as non flammable. They're universally insanely flammable - my favorites only have acetone, heptane, and maybe methanol or R-limonene in them, but the ones with the nasty poo poo like xylene, MEK, ethylbenzene, toluene, etc in them are also flammable as gently caress.um excuse me posted:The perfect spider solution. I don't think so. Unless you mean switching away from propane for a propellant, I don't know if they did that. The product itself is flammable, simply because it's a lot of mixed together lightweight hydrocarbons.
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May 25, 2016 18:25
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KozmoNaut posted:Dinitrol is good stuff. My car's been treated with it, and it's completely rust-free even after 15 years on Danish roads. Cool, doesn't seem too expensive to buy neither. I'll probably try to treat the car (if I buy it) before winter then, and try to wash off all the salt as often as I can.
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May 25, 2016 19:53
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool, doesn't seem too expensive to buy neither. I'll probably try to treat the car (if I buy it) before winter then, and try to wash off all the salt as often as I can. I had a Dinitrol garage do it for me, I don't know how well the DIY stuff holds up. When I had my car done, they had fancy heated spray guns and stuff.
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May 25, 2016 19:56
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We use WD40 to keep the tire changer tables at work clean and rust-free. We buy it in the gallon cans, and just have a couple of the non-aerosol bottles to spray them down with. Works like a charm, especially in Minnesota's perpetual salty winter
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May 25, 2016 20:01
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Here's a pretty comprehensive test of various lubricants and rust preventers: http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 Regular WD-40 didn't do so great.
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May 25, 2016 20:28
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^^ Nice, I'm reading it now.KozmoNaut posted:I had a Dinitrol garage do it for me, I don't know how well the DIY stuff holds up. Yeah, but spending 1/5 - 1/3 of the cars worth on rust treatment might not be financially viable. At least if I DIY it I can use it as a "learning experience" or something. I was thinking maybe get hold of a big 5L of dinitrol or some other poo poo they use for protecting cars bottle, use one of them garden hand pumps with a fine nozzle / long small tube. and get it into all the cavities and just coat the poo poo out of them, after pressure washing any dirt and crap that is already there. Edit: Looks like WD-40 specialist performed very well. Too expensive to do a car with though. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:40 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 20:28
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Hypnolobster posted:You need Fluid Film. Spray it on, wipe it off very lightly. If you don't mind lanolin smell, it's the best lube/anti-rust/boot treatment/dielectric/etc ever. +1. Fluid Film is my new go-to.
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May 25, 2016 20:32
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Waxoyl here in the UK, the original and the bestTMmay not be the original or the best So many classic car owners swear by it, and its probably responsible for 90% of the classics still being on the road. You can buy big cans with a handpump/applicator, and just the cans.
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May 25, 2016 20:42
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