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I'm looking to upgrade the motherboard, CPU, and RAM in my system meant for games on a 1080p/60Hz display. Right now, I just want to pick out a new processor and select the other parts based on that. If I don't want to bother with overclocking, is an i7-6700 too much of a cost increase versus actual performance increase compared to an i5-6600?
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May 21, 2016 06:45
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Looks fine to me, and just so you know the windowed panel makes almost no difference as far as sound deadening goes, and that is according to Fractal themselves from their testing, it's because sound does not propagate well through the plexi used in most case windows. Good to know that my gaudy choices can still be quiet choices.
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May 21, 2016 06:47
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A good poster posted:I'm looking to upgrade the motherboard, CPU, and RAM in my system meant for games on a 1080p/60Hz display. Right now, I just want to pick out a new processor and select the other parts based on that. If I don't want to bother with overclocking, is an i7-6700 too much of a cost increase versus actual performance increase compared to an i5-6600? I'd say yes, the best price/performance choice for gaming is the i5-6500 or i5-6600.
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May 21, 2016 06:58
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I'm about to build my first computer in 5 years and I'm really interested in going to a micro case because of space limitations in my current living situation. That said, my brother offered to sell me his 980 TI for $200 once he gets his 1080, but it's a full size card. Is there a good micro case that can still accommodate a full-size card and the PSU to run it (without being insanely hard to squeeze everything into)?
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May 21, 2016 07:03
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Mayor Dave posted:I'm about to build my first computer in 5 years and I'm really interested in going to a micro case because of space limitations in my current living situation. That said, my brother offered to sell me his 980 TI for $200 once he gets his 1080, but it's a full size card. Is there a good micro case that can still accommodate a full-size card and the PSU to run it (without being insanely hard to squeeze everything into)? Tons of them, have a look: Mini-tower: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($202.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.00 @ Newegg) Total: $1175.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 02:32 EDT-0400 Shoebox: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($202.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.00 @ Newegg) Total: $1170.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 02:35 EDT-0400 Thin: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($202.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($79.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1249.81 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 02:38 EDT-0400 Cube: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($202.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($32.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.00 @ Newegg) Total: $1143.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 02:39 EDT-0400
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May 21, 2016 07:40
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Okay. All my stuff is here and I have it all in the room I set aside to build this thing. I am missing rubbing alcohol only, do I need to clean the top of the heat spreader as it mentions in the video? I am also pissing terrified at the moment as so bought an anti-static strap from a PC shop near me. I am still terrified, but slightly less so.
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May 21, 2016 15:59
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Rubbing alcohol is for cleaning thermal paste off the heat spreader when you're reseating or replacing a cooler. I assume you bought that i5-6500 system Radish recommended you, so you should have a reasonably pristine heat spreader out of the box.
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May 21, 2016 16:08
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HMS Boromir posted:Rubbing alcohol is for cleaning thermal paste off the heat spreader when you're reseating or replacing a cooler. I assume you bought that i5-6500 system Radish recommended you, so you should have a reasonably pristine heat spreader out of the box. It was what I got. Thanks. Still nervous, but I want to thank all of you for your help! Argh, now I am worried because the freaking lift up arm is creaking a bit when I try and set it. How on earth have I made it to adulthood by being afraid I will break something like this. Josef bugman fucked around with this message at 16:57 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 16:11
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Josef bugman posted:It was what I got. Thanks. Still nervous, but I want to thank all of you for your help! It does that, just be careful and smooth. Cautious is good and warranted, afraid is less helpful. If the chip's seated right with the raised bits in the socket matching the grooves in the chip, the force will be spread nicely.
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May 21, 2016 17:45
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xthetenth posted:It does that, just be careful and smooth. Cautious is good and warranted, afraid is less helpful. If the chip's seated right with the raised bits in the socket matching the grooves in the chip, the force will be spread nicely. That is all now sorted, thank goodness, also installed the memory stuff. However with teh case that I have it has one raised thing and no instructions as to where exactly I screw things in in order to mount the motherboard.
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May 21, 2016 17:57
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Josef bugman posted:That is all now sorted, thank goodness, also installed the memory stuff. However with teh case that I have it has one raised thing and no instructions as to where exactly I screw things in in order to mount the motherboard. You just match the pattern of holes on the mobo to the posts on the mobo tray in the case, most cases come with the posts for the largest mobo type they fit preinstalled. Also remember to get the I/O shield in before installing the mobo, it's a real pain if you forget that and need to remove the mobo to get it in.
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May 21, 2016 18:01
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Josef bugman posted:It was what I got. Thanks. Still nervous, but I want to thank all of you for your help! That's normal, and it does take some pressure to get the cpu in place.
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May 21, 2016 18:14
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Josef bugman posted:That is all now sorted, thank goodness, also installed the memory stuff. However with teh case that I have it has one raised thing and no instructions as to where exactly I screw things in in order to mount the motherboard. Are there letter codes next to the screw holes? If so, there's a code to match your motherboard's size and the holes are standardized.
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May 21, 2016 18:36
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You just match the pattern of holes on the mobo to the posts on the mobo tray in the case, most cases come with the posts for the largest mobo type they fit preinstalled. Also remember to get the I/O shield in before installing the mobo, it's a real pain if you forget that and need to remove the mobo to get it in. Okay, all of that has been done. But just as quick thing... the SSD I have didn't come with a tray and I can't seem to find where to pop it in on this one. Nope, checked the list and no hard drive, ignore previous sweary question. Josef bugman fucked around with this message at 18:38 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 18:36
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Your case might have an attachment point for an ssd behind the mobo, so check for that. Alternatively, my case came with an adapter for 2.5" drives, so you can check in case you have one with your case parts.
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May 21, 2016 18:40
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LogicalFallacy posted:Your case might have an attachment point for an ssd behind the mobo, so check for that. Alternatively, my case came with an adapter for 2.5" drives, so you can check in case you have one with your case parts. Doesn't appear to. Or if it does my SSD is too large for it.
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May 21, 2016 18:43
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Josef bugman posted:Doesn't appear to. Or if it does my SSD is too large for it. I believe you have a Cooler Master N200, yes? The SSDs can mount either under the 5.25" bays or on top of the 3.5" HDD cage, there are little metal tabs with holes in them that will fit around the SSD and then you screw it in from the sides.
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May 21, 2016 18:58
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I believe you have a Cooler Master N200, yes? The SSDs can mount either under the 5.25" bays or on top of the 3.5" HDD cage, there are little metal tabs with holes in them that will fit around the SSD and then you screw it in from the sides. Herf a derf. Thanks. I am so sorry for turning this thread into "Josef is building a PC". Do tell me if I should gently caress off. Oh and whichway up does the SSD go? With the little metal pad things facing towards the fan and the part that says "Samsung" facing up? Josef bugman fucked around with this message at 19:08 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 19:01
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Josef bugman posted:Herf a derf. Thanks. You could do it either way, I like to keep the logo facing up but that is just my preference. Oh, and also there are little rubber grommet type things that you can attach to the SSD and then those will slot into holes in the motherboard tray so you can mount up to four SSDs if you want, here is a picture: 
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May 21, 2016 19:15
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What is your case? E: beaten
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May 21, 2016 19:25
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Tons of them, have a look: Haha, serves me right for not doing enough research. Thanks for your help. I ended up with this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.49 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.79 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Case: Silverstone RVZ01B Mini ITX Desktop Case ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($116.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $708.71 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 14:46 EDT-0400 Are there any major problems that jump out? Would it be a heat problem to jump up to a faster mobo/processor and try to overclock in that case?
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May 21, 2016 19:48
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Mayor Dave posted:Haha, serves me right for not doing enough research. Thanks for your help. I ended up with this: Take a look at the Corsair SF600 power supply. Reviews so far indicate that it's quieter than the Silverstone for the same price.
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May 21, 2016 20:08
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TheMadMilkman posted:
Put in the order this morning. Paid a few dollars extra to order from Amazon and Newegg only to make sure the stuff is here by next weekend. My 9-year-old daughter asked if she can help build it. Should be fun.
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May 21, 2016 20:11
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Mayor Dave posted:Haha, serves me right for not doing enough research. Thanks for your help. I ended up with this: You could do a mild OC, but nothing major, 4.4GHz on a 6600k would be a good target. But if you are going to do so I would make a few changes: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($241.44 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($142.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($67.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.79 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Case: Silverstone RVZ01B Mini ITX Desktop Case ($79.99 @ Directron) Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Total: $835.51 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 15:31 EDT-0400 1) A better CPU cooler since you will be OCing. 2) Faster RAM, that makes a difference in some games these days and it's not much extra to pay. 3) A better PSU, this one has a much longer warranty and is a bit better in every other way too. You might want to think about a larger HDD, the only reason is that you can only mount one in this case so you want to make sure it is plenty big enough for your needs for years to come. Also make sure the video card will fit, I know of at least one model (a Zotac AMP!) of the 980Ti that would not fit, I think that is the only one but make sure the one you are getting is under 13".
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May 21, 2016 20:37
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Okay, everything put in place. Couldn't get one of the screws to fit in exactly with the Mobo though, is that going to be a problem later?
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May 21, 2016 20:50
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Josef bugman posted:Okay, everything put in place. Couldn't get one of the screws to fit in exactly with the Mobo though, is that going to be a problem later? That can sometimes happen, it should be ok, you just want to make sure that the standoff for the screw is not contacting well away from the hole, in that case you would remove the standoff to prevent the possibility of a short, if it's just slightly misaligned you should be fine.
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May 21, 2016 20:55
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:That can sometimes happen, it should be ok, you just want to make sure that the standoff for the screw is not contacting well away from the hole, in that case you would remove the standoff to prevent the possibility of a short, if it's just slightly misaligned you should be fine. Its conected, just at a slightly weirder angle, for some odd reason there are two that didn't quite align with the Mobo properly.
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May 21, 2016 21:05
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Josef bugman posted:Its conected, just at a slightly weirder angle, for some odd reason there are two that didn't quite align with the Mobo properly. That should be fine, the area around the screws is grounded off so you can't get shorts there.
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May 21, 2016 21:10
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FWIW I'm not saying it's great advice but I've built at least six computers over the years and I've never used a static strap or anything else but the same tools I use on everything else. I've even used a magnetic screwdriver in a tight case where I couldn't get both hands in simultaneously. Never had a problem. I don't think they're as fragile as people think. But if I was working on someone else's PC I'd be more careful. Back in the day you had to really read the instructions and gently caress with jumpers and slaves and all that but nowadays you don't even really need to read the instructions if you have any competence at all because everything only fits together one way and usually Just Works. Imagined fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 21:50
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Imagined posted:FWIW I'm not saying it's great advice but I've built at least six computers over the years and I've never used a static strap or anything else but the same tools I use on everything else. I've even used a magnetic screwdriver in a tight case where I couldn't get both hands in simultaneously. Never had a problem. I don't think they're as fragile as people think. This is kind of the first thing I have ever built that wasn't primary colours and wouldn't be ruined by being popped in your mouth, so I am just a little bit on edge. The fact that I can't stop my hands wobbling like I have delerium freakin' tremens also isn't helping. Oh and for some reason when I try and plug the cables into their respective slots they just keep falling out. Any advice to get them to stick? Its the PLED, HDMI and all that lot ones that just keep falling out.
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May 21, 2016 21:52
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The hard and frustrating part of building a PC is not assembling it, it's figuring out what's wrong if it doesn't work.
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May 21, 2016 21:54
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Sir Kodiak posted:The hard and frustrating part of building a PC is not assembling it, it's figuring out what's wrong if it doesn't work. That's tedious but usually just a process of elimination starting with the dumbest simplest thing possible ("Did I plug it in? Is the power switch on?"). Can't remember how many times I've had a heart attack with a PC I hosed with that wouldn't start until I noticed I'd hit the power switch on the PSU in the process. I remember one PC I built wouldn't boot until I had reseated every stick of RAM, even though I could swear they looked perfect before. The only one I ever truly hosed up was when my screwdriver slipped and popped something that was apparently very important off the motherboard. Instant dead computer. Josef bugman posted:This is kind of the first thing I have ever built that wasn't primary colours and wouldn't be ruined by being popped in your mouth, so I am just a little bit on edge. The fact that I can't stop my hands wobbling like I have delerium freakin' tremens also isn't helping. Don't get frustrated. Just relax and walk away from it for a bit, then try again. Usually bits like that have a little catch that snaps in when it's fully seated. Imagined fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 21:58
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Looking to upgrade to 144hz at 1080p. Here's my current video setup: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Superclocked ACX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: Acer G235HAbd 23.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: Acer G235HAbd 23.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 17:39 EDT-0400 And the rest of the computer: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro 81.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: ASRock H87M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 17:39 EDT-0400 Here's what I'm considering: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Monitor: Dell U2412M 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($241.99 @ Adorama) Monitor: AOC G2460PG 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($349.99 @ B&H) Other: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 Video Card ($379.99) Total: $971.97 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 17:42 EDT-0400 The Dell is a 1920x1200 IPS and would be used in portrait. The AOC is kind of gross but reviews well and is way cheaper than other G-Sync monitors. I know benchmarks aren't out yet, but is it looking like the 1070 will be enough to drive 144hz at 1080p? Looking at playing Overwatch and Rocket League on whatever settings, as long as I can have a little AA and textures cranked up. Anything dumb here? Other monitors to consider?
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May 21, 2016 22:59
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Finished my build and installed Spanish Windows 10. Hilarious bottleneck with the 660ti from a friend until I get a 1070/1080 but it runs most games fine at 1080p. My only concern is GPU heat since the PSU is directly beneath it, as illustrated:  Seems to temp OK under normal load and of course the CPU is fine, but it seems to me I may have to get a smaller cooler if the 1070/1080 has a large amount of cooling on it. Although I suppose I could always get a larger case.
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May 21, 2016 23:11
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($283.98 @ DirectCanada) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($144.75 @ Vuugo) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($73.00 @ Vuugo) Storage: Samsung 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($384.99 @ DirectCanada) Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($63.17 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.98 @ NCIX) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB (32/64-bit) ($130.98 @ DirectCanada) Total: $1270.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-21 18:19 EDT-0400 Country: Canada What are you using the system for? Web, videos, games Budget? I want to stay under 1300 if possible Gaming: I am going to use 1080p, preferably 60 fps at high/max. No real desire to go up anytime soon. Here's my planned build that I am going to replace my 6.5 year old laptop with. It's also going to be my first ever build. Are there any suggested improvements/glaring flaws I should be aware of? The Carbide 88R isn't a final choice, as I'm having a hard time picking a computer case. It's between that and the Fractal Design ARC mini R2. The Carbide is cheaper but I'm worried that it will affect the quality and durability of the product. The Fractal Design looks nicer but is much more expensive, so I'm not sure if it's worth the money. Can someone help me pick between the two? Suggestions for alternatives are welcome too. I'd like my case to be small-sized and reasonably 'future-proof' if possible. If I can reuse it in a build maybe 6 years down the line that would be great. I was also looking at the Corsair Air 240 for a while, but backed off because I read about video cards pushing on the window and making it bulge. For the video card I'm planning on obtaining either used 970 or a new mid-range Polaris card, depending on how they compare once benchmarks are released. However the Polaris release is likely to be several weeks away and I've already been waiting a month while getting kind of annoyed with the slowness of my laptop. Would it be a good idea to order and build everything now and rely on integrated graphics until I get a proper graphics card later on?
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May 21, 2016 23:26
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Imagined posted:That's tedious but usually just a process of elimination starting with the dumbest simplest thing possible ("Did I plug it in? Is the power switch on?"). Can't remember how many times I've had a heart attack with a PC I hosed with that wouldn't start until I noticed I'd hit the power switch on the PSU in the process. I remember one PC I built wouldn't boot until I had reseated every stick of RAM, even though I could swear they looked perfect before. My post was partly out of frustration that the PC I literally just built wasn't booting. I've since my previous post figured out the problem (got a pair of sticks of RAM, one is bad), so am in a much better mood  One last thanks to AVeryLargeRadish. The Nano S was impressively easy to work with for such a small case, and – while I'm running without a dedicated GPU right now, so it will presumably get louder – it's whisper-quiet and looks great.
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May 21, 2016 23:44
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editor posted:Looking to upgrade to 144hz at 1080p. You should get the Dell U2415 instead of the U2412M, the U2415 is the successor to the U2412M, it has a much better anti-glare coating and is better in general.
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May 22, 2016 00:28
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nuclear_cheetos posted:Finished my build and installed Spanish Windows 10. Is that the d15? Have you looked at the d15s? It's offset a bit from the gpu. Also, are you going to remove this drive trays? E: also are your cpu fans pointing away from the exhaust case fan? fozzy fosbourne fucked around with this message at 01:34 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 01:32
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nuclear_cheetos posted:Seems to temp OK under normal load and of course the CPU is fine, but it seems to me I may have to get a smaller cooler if the 1070/1080 has a large amount of cooling on it. GPU coolers fit into two slots' width, a bigger GPU wouldn't be going up any more towards the CPU.
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May 22, 2016 01:34
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I found that the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7 ATX is just about $70 off for a bit. I'm wondering if it's worth changing the build for the 6600K chip from a ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX at that discount? Does anyone have any thoughts? Edit: how's about I link the right boards. No Lynch fucked around with this message at 02:00 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 01:53
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