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Bozart posted:So if it is white oak I should keep it away from dirt, should I apply linseed oil or just leave it alone? I'm not convinced it's all white oak, I think there may be a mix, which is a wretched thing to do. Those back slats look like classic red oak pattern to me. As wormil mentioned, unfinished white oak will weather to a natural gray. If you want to put some finish on, I'd go with something more protective than linseed oil. And if there's red oak mixed in, you've got issues with weather and rot.
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May 21, 2016 00:14
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Bozart posted:So if it is white oak I should keep it away from dirt, should I apply linseed oil or just leave it alone? Soil contains many microorganisms that will literally eat the wood so that's why you want to keep it off the ground. The end grain will act like straws, wicking moisture and microorganisms up into the interior of the wood, causing rot. Red oak has big open pores, you can take a piece of red oak and blow air through it like a tube and that's why they are far less weather resistant. White oak pores are smaller and less open, better protection against moisture. Oils and waxes behave on wood the same as lotion and ChapStick behave on a human being, as faint and temporary protection. If you go into the rain with lotion on your skin, will it protect you? No, and neither will linseed oil protect wood from moisture, it's mostly for looks. Wax is slightly more protection but even more temporary. Once you are off the ground, the next threat is the sun and the only defense is blocking UV. Paint is the best, deck stain 2nd best, spar varnish with UV blockers is a distant 3rd, there is no 4th. White oak will resist UV, rain, and microorganisms (to an extent) on it's own very well; over time it will turn a bleached gray. So you don't have to do anything else but you can if you want. Once you put on a film finish, like varnish, you'll be doing it every year from now on or it will look like poo poo; ditto for paint and to a lesser extent, deck stain, but deck stain is easier to reapply. Where I'm from, many outdoor buildings were once built from white oak, and the siding is white oak, because it was plentiful and cheap. Some of those buildings are 70, 80, 100 years old and the oak is probably good for another 100 years. They were up off the ground on rock foundations, never painted or treated with anything. TLDR, you don't have to do anything but film finishes will preserve the looks at the expense of needing to be redone every year or so if left in direct sun. As for whether they are white or red oak, I can't definitely say from those pictures. But I understand the skepticism since it seems everyone wants to cut corners to save a buck. To me it looks like white oak but I am not an expert on identifying oak. Post pics of yours when you get them. There are guides on the internet to help you differentiate between the two.
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May 21, 2016 04:28
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Chopped a buncha tenons last night in ~7ft long 4x4 posts, used my table saw, thank god for my extensible sliding table: In retrospect I shouldn't have cut shoulders I think. Then I hand cut the mortises in the joining piece (a 2x6 board) using hand tools, took all day to chop two mortises but very satisfying    This was less fun, one of the mortises was too tight a fit so it split:  Any recommendations on how to fix it? I also think the design has little strength against racking. When it's done it will have braces supporting it sideways but not back to front. I plan to anchor it to the ground using big pieces of rebar that I will drill into the bottom of the posts, and anchoring that into concrete sleepers. Not sure if that will be stable enough. The design I am going for which I copied from a picture I found online:  I will mount a seat in this thing that'll hang by chains from the center arch.
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May 21, 2016 15:26
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'm not convinced it's all white oak, I think there may be a mix, which is a wretched thing to do. Those back slats look like classic red oak pattern to me. As wormil mentioned, unfinished white oak will weather to a natural gray. If you want to put some finish on, I'd go with something more protective than linseed oil. And if there's red oak mixed in, you've got issues with weather and rot. well, poo poo posted:Our vendor replied that this is stronger than red oak and equal in quality to white oak. It is harvested from northeast China near Russia. So that sounds like uh, mongolian oak I guess?
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May 22, 2016 04:51
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His Divine Shadow posted:s If the roof joists(?) are notched into the uprights or otherwise really well attached, they should add a good bit of resistance to racking with all the cross pieces keeping them a solid unit. As for the mortise tragedy, pound it out, get as much glue in the crack as possible and add a thru-dowel or two perpendicular to the crack for good measure? Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 05:14 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 05:07
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I was actually thinking now if I should use something bigger than a 2x6 for said part. I remebered I have an old laminated wooden beam that's 4x10" or 95x225mm, I updated the plan to see how it would look I think that would be quite secure against racking. Could also be pinned through with dowels. One could make the tenon longer or notch the posts into the whole thing...
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May 22, 2016 07:11
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Bozart posted:So that sounds like uh, mongolian oak I guess? You're off the reservation, who the gently caress knows. Send it back and have some local yokel make some out of real oak.
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May 22, 2016 09:26
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My wife spent last night watching some Peter Brown and the kids kept making me leave autoplay going because they thought the projects were cool. Now my wife wants to know if this would be a decent learning lathe for me to beat on if she scored one for my birthday: http://www.amazon.com/SHOP-W1704-3-...ords=wood+lathe
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May 22, 2016 14:36
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Bozart posted:So that sounds like uh, mongolian oak I guess? lol, got me. You might get a quality piece, those fuckers invented fine wood furniture while Europeans were living in trees. Hell, it might stand up to weather fine then, idk.
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May 22, 2016 15:04
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Mr. Mambold posted:lol, got me. You might get a quality piece, those fuckers invented fine wood furniture while Europeans were living in trees. Hell, it might stand up to weather fine then, idk. What about teak oil? I don't know much about finishes, but that's theoretically a rub on oil finish that's intended for outside house, right? Seems like even if it doesn't do anything more than BLO, at least it won't turn into a maintainance headache like spar var
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May 22, 2016 15:29
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Hubis posted:What about teak oil? I don't know much about finishes, but that's theoretically a rub on oil finish that's intended for outside house, right? Seems like even if it doesn't do anything more than BLO, at least it won't turn into a maintainance headache like spar var Idk about it either, but teak is one of those divine species of wood that can take weather on its own. Think boat decks. I think it's a marketing ploy frankly.
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May 22, 2016 15:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:Idk about it either, but teak is one of those divine species of wood that can take weather on its own. Think boat decks. I think it's a marketing ploy frankly. Just did some reading and it appears to basically be BLO with solvent. Apparently it will "ruin" real teak if you use it by dryng out the natural oils 
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May 22, 2016 15:41
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Butch Cassidy posted:My wife spent last night watching some Peter Brown and the kids kept making me leave autoplay going because they thought the projects were cool. I got the stepped pulley version of this little lathe for $50 0n Craigslist in Dallas a while back. It is very capable for making tool handles, pens, fly rod handles, etc. The guy I got it from got rid of it because it was to small to do bowls like he wanted. edit: On closer inspection this is a MT1 lathe. I have an MT2 which is both more common and capable. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 16:27
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Hmmm. I'm e-mailing the seller of this right now: http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/5557903832.html They say it runs but not clear if the motor is included. They also mentioned a spare motor and dunno what's up. Trying to get some clarification. An hour in a borrowed pickup to drive down and check it out for eightybux is tempting. Hundredbux if I borrow a friend to help loading/unloading and have to buy him a burger and pint.
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May 22, 2016 18:57
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Got a  Haven’t used a table saw since college way back. Didn’t have much trouble with the smallness (just used it on the ground even), but using the miter gauge really makes me want to buy a nicer one  , thinking an Incra V27 or 1000SE.
japtor fucked around with this message at 06:42 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 23:41
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japtor posted:Got a I would gladly live in this home if it were bigger
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May 24, 2016 05:40
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Butch Cassidy posted:Hmmm. I'm e-mailing the seller of this right now: This might help: http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2016/05/how-to-buy-vintage-lathe.html Have you identified it yet? There are several of these that look similar, most are Dunlaps but I think there are different specs on some of them. Edit: How far away is this one from you? http://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/5572329039.html They make great restoration projects and were built like tanks. They had taper bearings but not sealed so you have to keep oil in the headstock. Only 11" swing but it's easy to put risers on them. wormil fucked around with this message at 12:56 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 07:02
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Interesting, bought some BLO and when I looked closer on the bottle it said (translated and paraphrased) "old fashioned BLO, manufactured through boiling linseed oil". I always thought it was a myth that BLO was actually boiled, and that they used additives to make it dry faster?
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May 24, 2016 10:29
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His Divine Shadow posted:Interesting, bought some BLO and when I looked closer on the bottle it said (translated and paraphrased) "old fashioned BLO, manufactured through boiling linseed oil". I always thought it was a myth that BLO was actually boiled, and that they used additives to make it dry faster? Almost every BLO you will find in any wood or home repair store will have alcohol and/or another more flammable additive and is exactly why rags with 'boiled linseed oil' on them can randomly set on fire in your garage or woodshop, this is not a myth and has happened to people even recently. It's really lovely, I hate capitalism, and the only option to be sure you've gotten around it is find the right brand or just pay a little more and buy regular linseed oil from a food store. I still just dabble in woodworking with all hand tools, but I use some walnut oil I bought at the grocery store. I love the shine and color it gives to cedar, but I need to find something that doesn't slightly change the color of a wood because I'd like my birch work to stay white.
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May 24, 2016 16:38
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extra stout posted:Almost every BLO you will find in any wood or home repair store will have alcohol and/or another more flammable additive and is exactly why rags with 'boiled linseed oil' on them can randomly set on fire in your garage or woodshop, this is not a myth and has happened to people even recently. As long as you follow some precautions it isn't so bad to work with. I always wash BLO rags out with soap and water, then stick them to my bandsaw table with a couple magnets to dry out. Once it dries out you can just toss em.
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May 24, 2016 16:53
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Does anyone have a recommendation for "fastener-like" parts that somewhat exotic enough not to be found at your local hardware store/superstores? In particular, I'm looking for leg levelers for a feed table. I found this on Amazon but a) it seems pricey b) perhaps overkill for what I need and c) according to the comments may not provide effective gripping. Yes I'm looking for alternative recommendations for this part but almost as much, I'm looking for recommendations for a general online go-to place for parts like this.
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May 24, 2016 19:04
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McMaster-Carr for-loving-ever
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May 24, 2016 20:57
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What all are jointers used for? A jet one popped up on Craigslist for a good price.
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May 25, 2016 04:26
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Parts Kit posted:What all are jointers used for? A jet one popped up on Craigslist for a good price. Turning rough-sawn lumber into S4S boards, more or less.
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May 25, 2016 04:42
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Parts Kit posted:What all are jointers used for? A jet one popped up on Craigslist for a good price. First step in dimensioning lumber, flatten one face, true one edge. They can also cut rabbets and tapers. edit VVVVVV yeah, jointers are scary as hell. Did a couple shop organization projects the other day. Top one is for the tablesaw, to collect the various things I use constantly, and the bottom is for the lathe. Quick and dirty, brads and glue. wormil fucked around with this message at 05:17 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 04:54
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Also good for prepping edges for gluing. And degloving fingers.
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May 25, 2016 05:00
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I have been building a canoe. I really like this thread so i figured i should add what I have been up to. Here is where we are at. Just completed the first fiberglass layer. If you guys would like more work in progress pictures. I can post some later
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May 25, 2016 05:52
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Butch Cassidy posted:Also good for prepping edges for gluing. And degloving fingers. That seems surprising, from watching people use jointers it doesn't look like you ever get your hands close enough to do that compared to like Lathes or other spinny murdertools.
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May 25, 2016 06:44
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Cheesus posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for "fastener-like" parts that somewhat exotic enough not to be found at your local hardware store/superstores? Also try MSC Direct, Grainger and Zoro.
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May 25, 2016 06:51
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Bought a combination square. I have an old aluminum stanley I got for a few bucks, but it's imperial only and I want a metric set and a protractor could also be very useful, and so I got this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blem-Cosmet...3UAAOSwe7BWwjyD I read good things about PEC and the blemished tools in particular. And cast iron is an upgrade from aluminum. Some guy elsewhere commented I shoulda gone with forged but those weren't available and I can't afford full price Starret.... Do you really need a forged head? I don't think so, I can scrape it straight if it goes out of square, which seems unlikely. I think paul sellers has had a rabone square for 50 years, I think its cast iron.
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May 25, 2016 11:08
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fidelcastro8032 posted:I have been building a canoe. I really like this thread so i figured i should add what I have been up to. Here is where we are at. Just completed the first fiberglass layer. If you guys would like more work in progress pictures. I can post some later Yes Please.
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May 25, 2016 12:45
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fidelcastro8032 posted:I have been building a canoe. I really like this thread so i figured i should add what I have been up to. Here is where we are at. Just completed the first fiberglass layer. If you guys would like more work in progress pictures. I can post some later I would, this is awesome.
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May 25, 2016 12:46
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Parts Kit posted:What all are jointers used for? A jet one popped up on Craigslist for a good price. Sup new jointer buddy 
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May 25, 2016 14:04
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Falcon2001 posted:That seems surprising, from watching people use jointers it doesn't look like you ever get your hands close enough to do that compared to like Lathes or other spinny murdertools. There are plenty of scars and stumpy fingers in my town alone from guys in too much of a hurry to use a push or trying to fiddle with some tiny piece. E: And the new guy at work was out of the job for a good while getting his hand sewn back together after getting cocky with a jointer. They're ha dy tools but on the "Take a deep breath and make sure you're with the program before starting" list. Butch Cassidy fucked around with this message at 14:27 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 14:24
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extra stout posted:Almost every BLO you will find in any wood or home repair store will have alcohol and/or another more flammable additive and is exactly why rags with 'boiled linseed oil' on them can randomly set on fire in your garage or woodshop, this is not a myth and has happened to people even recently. The stuff HDS bought is probably closer to the original solvent free BLO, it's readily available at most Finnish stores. The stuff commonly found at hardware stores in the US is the adulterated stuff. Try tung oil for your birch, get the 100% stuff then thin it out with mineral spirits. It will darken things a bit, but is a much harder wearing oil finish than linseed. You could also go for mineral oil. it won't dry very nicely, but you can always add a wax layer over it. Mineral oil can be found super cheap as a laxative at either drugstores or farm supply. I'd also recommend the tung oil over the teak oil talked about earlier. HDS, your mortise cracking tragedy sounds like an ideal time for the dovetail key.
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May 25, 2016 15:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:I read good things about PEC and the blemished tools in particular. And cast iron is an upgrade from aluminum. Some guy elsewhere commented I shoulda gone with forged but those weren't available and I can't afford full price Starret.... Do you really need a forged head? I have no experience with PEC but they have a good reputation. I wouldn't worry about forged vs cast. I got rid of all my combination squares, Stanley, Craftsman; and bought a Bluepoint. It's huge improvement, worth every penny. At time of purchase I didn't realize they are no longer made in the US or I would have bought the PEC instead.
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May 25, 2016 21:06
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For the canoe. It is 16' long and about 60" around. It started with 14 or 15 12" x10' cedar boards. Cut them into strips. Then bead and cove each side of the strips using the router table. Build the form and start laying strips. I couldn't find a good way to clamp them once they got larger than almost any of my clamps. So i started using painter tape which actually worked really well.
fidelcastro8032 fucked around with this message at 21:45 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 21:32
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From there you build up the strips until you get to the last one as pictured here. Cedar is light and pretty bendy only had to soak them a few times to get them to bend over the forms. Then I used staples to hold the strips to the form molds. Sometimes had to use screws but didn't want to put too big of holes in it.
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May 25, 2016 21:35
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Then sand the hell out of it. I used my DA air sander with 60 grit and it still took forever.
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May 25, 2016 21:36
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Then fiberglassing. Which i had never done before. Got 17 yards and 60" roll and just went at it. Easily one of the most messy sticky things I have done in a while but turned out pretty good. Next is to let the epoxy dry and then flip it over and take out all the mold forms. Then fiberglass the inside, build the seats, thwart and gunwales.
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May 25, 2016 21:41
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