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Meet the new thread, same as the old thread
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Apr 10, 2016 03:10
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bigtom posted:Thank you to Motronic for all the advice in the thread - I finally got the AC in the Suburban working. Replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and orifice tube, vacced out the system, and charged it up (all 4 pounds). Blowing a very chilly 40 degrees from the front vents - GM may have cheaped out on lots of things with that truck, but the A/C is not one of them. And I have a set of gauges & vaccum pump now in case any of the other vehicles develop issues over the summer - thanks again! It's another refrigeration based miracle! I guess it's about the time of the year for this thread to start cranking up again.
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Apr 10, 2016 03:21
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bigtom posted:Thank you to Motronic for all the advice in the thread - I finally got the AC in the Suburban working. Replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and orifice tube, vacced out the system, and charged it up (all 4 pounds). Blowing a very chilly 40 degrees from the front vents - GM may have cheaped out on lots of things with that truck, but the A/C is not one of them. And I have a set of gauges & vaccum pump now in case any of the other vehicles develop issues over the summer - thanks again! Yeah, GM makes some damned cold A/C, especially in the trucks. It's a simple design that hasn't changed significantly since R-134 came out.
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Apr 10, 2016 06:19
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So much like everywhere else in the country, we're starting to use the a/c in our cars. Mom turned hers on the other day. Compressor wouldn't engage. Wound up taking almost a full can before the compressor would turn on (22 oz total capacity). When I hooked up the gauges, the low side barely twitched, high side went up a little, so it had.. something in it. Not much. I'm guessing the compressor may have engaged briefly while she was driving, I would expect the low side gauge to move a bit more otherwise. So next weekend it looks like it'll be leak-finding day. I did notice that I got a quick hiss while removing the caps from the service ports, so I'm guessing the schraders are leaking a bit. I hope that's all it is. It's blowing cold for now, at least.. just in time for another cold front!  When I topped it off last summer, one of the cans I used had dye in it.Stupid question - will that dye show up under your typical  fluorescent black light, assuming I check after the sun goes down, or should I go get a real UV light + glasses? I have a 32 watt stoner version..wallaka posted:Yeah, GM makes some damned cold A/C My CobaltG5IonHHR would like to argue with you about this, though I'm sure the black dash and interior don't help. It's mediocre at best during the hottest months, except at highway speeds. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 09:19
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some texas redneck posted:Stupid question - will that dye show up under your typical I have no idea what the gently caress that is. But this is $15 and works: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesaler...arch_detailpage
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Apr 10, 2016 13:33
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some texas redneck posted:Stupid question - will that dye show up under your typical If it's actually a uv black light then yes it will work. Barely. I had to turn off every single light and make it pitch loving black, and I *barely* saw a loving thing. I haven't used what Motronic just recommended but I'm sure it's a drat sight better than a hippie UV black light. That being said, I still have my hippie light hung up with the AC tools because it does, technically, do the job and it's already there.
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Apr 11, 2016 17:25
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Well, a good chunk of the make-poo poo-cold poo poo leaked back out of her car in 3 days, to the point that the compressor is engaging, but it's not cooling very well. Going by gauges, it took about a full can to get everything looking decent again. It's back to freezing the tits off of a nun... for a day or two. I also noticed Walmart sells a UV pen light + UV safety glasses for a whole $12. Seems like it's a lot easier than taking the stoner light approach. Picked that up, couldn't find anything, so maybe I thought wrong and the stuff I filled it with last year didn't have dye. Going to grab some dye tomorrow, then check it in a day or two and see what's leaking. Please be a bad hose please be a bad hose please be a bad hose don't be the compressor don't be the compressoredit: since I know it's getting opened up, I went to rockauto to price a new receiver/dryer. Apparently you can only get a new desiccant pack?! What the poo poo? How bad of an idea is opening up the receiver/dryer to replace just the desiccant? Apparently it's Denso p/n 4781500. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Apr 15, 2016 |
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Apr 15, 2016 09:03
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Some of them aren't sealed and are made to be replaced like that. It's what you have, so go with it.
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Apr 15, 2016 22:06
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So, I thought my AC was fixed until a few days ago when it stopped cooling....when I'm 500 miles from my gauges and the rest of my tools. Come to find out the Schrader valve on the low side is leaking (the hissing sound and the pool of dye were clues that even Stevie Wonder couldn't miss). Thankfully AutoZone had the parts to replace the valve as well as a set of gauges and a vacuum pump. Replaced the valve, vacced the system, recharged, and all is well. The ironic thing? I replaced the high side valve when I did the compressor and everything else. Moral of the story - don't be lazy like me, if one valve is bad, replace both. Driving on a road trip with no AC is not fun.
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Apr 22, 2016 04:29
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some texas redneck posted:My CobaltG5IonHHR would like to argue with you about this, though I'm sure the black dash and interior don't help. It's mediocre at best during the hottest months, except at highway speeds. It's an Opel. Doesn't count as a real GM design cause of not being Murican.
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Apr 23, 2016 23:12
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Finally got around to throwing dye at mom's car. Motherfucking condenser. At least it's only $60, but I wasn't really wanting to yank the radiator this week.
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May 2, 2016 03:47
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I was trying to work out how much driers cost for the RX8, as I am planning to remove the compressor on mine. It turns out the drier is part of the loving condenser, and is non-replaceable, meaning I have to scrap the whole condenser every time I open the system. What the gently caress, Mazda?!
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May 2, 2016 11:33
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I was trying to work out how much driers cost for the RX8, as I am planning to remove the compressor on mine. It turns out the drier is part of the loving condenser, and is non-replaceable, meaning I have to scrap the whole condenser every time I open the system. What the gently caress, Mazda?! .....if its new, just vacuum it down a couple times.
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May 2, 2016 17:36
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I'm gonna remove the compressor and leave it out for a few months. Suggestions? Bag the hoses with PVC tape and vac the poo poo out of it when I come to reinstall?
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May 2, 2016 17:49
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I'm gonna remove the compressor and leave it out for a few months. Suggestions? Bag the hoses with PVC tape and vac the poo poo out of it when I come to reinstall? Bag and ziptie. Pick up some of those silicon absorbing packets and throw them in the bags before you zip tie them on.
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May 2, 2016 17:57
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Good call on the silica gel packs! Can't I just use a camping stove under the drier to dry it out? :p
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May 2, 2016 18:03
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Good call on the silica gel packs! You could just get a giant vacuum seal bag and seal it in that 
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May 2, 2016 18:12
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So assuming I keep it topped off with refrigerant and don't let it run low enough to stop cooling, will I harm the compressor by running it with a leaking condenser for a few weeks? Between working and moving, I just don't have the time to replace the condenser yet, and shops seem to want to shotgun most of the system instead of just replacing the leaking condenser (dye confirms the only leaks are the condenser and low side schrader valve - and the dye around the valve could just be from when I disconnected the gauges). Also kinda curious how much oil I'll have to toss in once I do replace it. I didn't see anything oily around where it's leaking from the condenser. Low pressure cutout is definitely working, though it seems to kick in a bit after it stops cooling. e: 2003 Toyota Avalon. Holds 22oz of refrigerant, not sure about oil capacity. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:41 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 07:38
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Are you losing oil through the leak? If so, then you would damage the compressor if you run out of oil.
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May 3, 2016 09:21
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Honestly, I can't say for sure. It looked a little dirty around there, but it's a 13 year old car, so everything looks pretty dirty. It was dark, so I didn't get that close of a look. I didn't see anything that looked fresh beyond the dye. I'll try and get a better look tomorrow. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:26 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 10:24
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The dye is suspended in the oil, is it not? I think that's your answer right there.
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May 3, 2016 17:16
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Yes. The dye is actually dyed oil and when you put it in the system it mixes with the rest of the oil already there.
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May 3, 2016 17:22
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You can get cans of mixed refrigerant and oil at your local friendly autozone.
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May 3, 2016 17:59
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RIP Paul Walker posted:You can get cans of mixed refrigerant and oil at your local friendly autozone. This is the safest option, not sure how else you would get oil into the system without getting some air in there as well, unless your manifold gauges have an oil injection port. The real pain will be not knowing how much oil you've lost, and therefore how much you'll need to replace. Now you're into flushing territory!
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May 3, 2016 18:15
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That... I.. uh... the dye is mixed with oil?  Why the gently caress didn't I think of that?ShittyPostmakerPro posted:This is the safest option, not sure how else you would get oil into the system without getting some air in there as well, unless your manifold gauges have an oil injection port. No injection port, but as Paul W said... there's always the mixed can option. gently caress it. Off to a shop. Got two quotes already - my longtime mechanic wants $900 to do the condenser  ... another well-respected import shop quoted $500. Both seem pretty drat steep to me, but if there's going to be a flush done, the numbers make a lot more sense.Hmm... I wonder something. The condenser has the drier built in, and it's a rebuildable drier. All of the dye seemed to be originating near the top right corner (looking at it from the front of the car), and I think that's where the drier is. Wonder if whatever seal is on it went? I'm sure this is wishful thinking, but it'd be really nice if that was the case.
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May 5, 2016 09:06
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Check that they would actually do a flush. I can imagine them not doing it.
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May 5, 2016 10:23
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some texas redneck posted:That... I.. uh... the dye is mixed with oil? Oil, dye and refrigerant are all miscible in a proper system. So yeah.....if anything is coming out everything is coming out. ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Check that they would actually do a flush. I can imagine them not doing it. And check on the definition of "flush", because if it's for the purpose of getting the right amount of oil back in you also need to pull various parts (definitely the compressor) to drain it and refill with the correct amount. Otherwise you have no idea how much (typically up to 1/3 of system volume) is sitting in the compressor so any refill is just a guess. But to be honest......I wouldn't even bother. Put in "enough probably a bit too much" oil and you'll be fine. It's better than too little. Too much (within reason.....like not so much you're slugging the compressor) will slightly reduce cooling performance so if the system is properly sized to begin with it shouldn't matter much.
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May 5, 2016 16:43
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Motronic posted:...so if the system is properly sized to begin with it shouldn't matter much. well, it is a mid-'00s GM product, that might be a bit of an ask
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May 6, 2016 07:34
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Enourmo posted:well, it is a mid-'00s GM product, that might be a bit of an ask Except it's an 03 Toyota  (mom's car, not mine)
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May 6, 2016 18:05
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An actual flush of the AC system is loving horrible and gross and uses one of the nastiest solvents I've ever come across and is a giant pain in the rear end - I'd highly recommend Motronic's 'eh close enough' method - flushes are only something I'd do if the AC system experienced Black Death.
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May 6, 2016 22:29
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RIP Paul Walker posted:An actual flush of the AC system is loving horrible and gross and uses one of the nastiest solvents I've ever come across and is a giant pain in the rear end - I'd highly recommend Motronic's 'eh close enough' method - flushes are only something I'd do if the AC system experienced Black Death. And to be honest you can get even closer without a flush by simply removing the condenser and compressor and draining them and whatever lines are convenient. No flush necessary. I totally agree with "not unless black death". Also, parallel flow evaps and condensers don't really flush anyway. Most new cars have them, so flushing (other than lines) ends up being pretty pointless.
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May 6, 2016 22:58
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some texas redneck posted:Except it's an 03 Toyota that's what i get for posting while sleep-deprived, carry on.
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May 7, 2016 08:58
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Vehicle: 2014 Ford F750 So in only 30k miles, my work truck has managed to completely clog up the evap coil. Ford, being Ford, did not think a cabin air filter was something needed, and the coil is buried in the dash, requiring dash removal to clean according to the dealer and my shop mechanic. Which my company will not bother with. Any clever ideas? I don't think the blower is removable without taking the dash out, either. My current plan of attack is drilling out some spot welds in a metal flap on the side of the outside air intake at the cowl, and see what I can reach (the welds are easily replaced by bolts). If nothing else, try to reach a sprayer in there and try to get some coil cleaner on it.
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May 13, 2016 23:11
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Maybe reverse pressurize it to blow all the poo poo back out whence it came?
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May 13, 2016 23:28
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Like, swap the leads on the blower motor? Will a scroll wheel do that? Or you mean rigging something up to push back from the vents? angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:35 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 23:32
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The latter. Unlikely to do much, but it's worth a shot I guess. Duct tape most of the vents closed and blast an air chuck into the last one maybe?
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May 13, 2016 23:37
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The a/c in my 05 avalanche hasn't worked in 5-6 years, with a year and a half of this sitting immobile. When it went out, a fairly reputable shop diagnosed it as the compressor (which I refused to do because they wanted $100 to replace a $15 belt at the same time). What would I need to do after replacing the compressor and dryer? I'm assuming have it vacuumed out, add oil and 134. Is there a way I could check before replacing the compressor that its not riddled with leaks after not working properly for so long? Edit: Alternately, is it even worth unfucking this poo poo given I've got a 5 minute drive to work? Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 01:29 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 01:24
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Elmnt80 posted:The a/c in my 05 avalanche hasn't worked in 5-6 years, with a year and a half of this sitting immobile. When it went out, a fairly reputable shop diagnosed it as the compressor (which I refused to do because they wanted $100 to replace a $15 belt at the same time). What would I need to do after replacing the compressor and dryer? I'm assuming have it vacuumed out, add oil and 134. Is there a way I could check before replacing the compressor that its not riddled with leaks after not working properly for so long? Kinda difficult to do because most of the leak detector stuff comes premixed in R134 or Oil. Best bet? Hit as many seals as you can reach, but chances are it shouldn't leak too bad, just make sure to do any O-rings when you do the drier and compressor lines. Let's put it this way: I just serviced an R12 system on an Audi Coupe GT that sat for 10 years. Other than a busted hose, all the seals were still good despite the system basically having a hole in it for 10+ years.
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May 25, 2016 01:28
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Hey guys, quick question. Girlfriend's 2009 Jetta SEL 2.5L A/C is not working. It'll blow air, just not cold, and it makes a tinny sound when the A/C or Heat is selected. Any ideas?
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May 26, 2016 20:55
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CommieGIR posted:The quest for Air Conditioning: Part 2! Going to get the hose made tommorrow, and then vacuum down and fill with esther oil and R-152.
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Jun 1, 2016 02:38
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